Samarkand 2005 - Part Three and Part Seven

497/4165 – Miyane – Solmaz Hotel

Wake up at 4 am, departure at 5 am At the Barzagan customs we lost more than 4 hours; at the exit we meet the guide: Hadi, the same one from Overland and from the group that visited Iran last year; he is 45 years old, speaks perfect Italian which he studied in Italy. We have to set our watches forward by two hours. Up to Miyane the road is good, where we find a hotel with water and electricity

320/4485 – Tehran – Lahet Hotel

Stop to visit the mausoleum of Oljeitu with a 25 m dome. It is under renovation and therefore surrounded by scaffolding. Good road at first, then the toll highway with a rough surface. On arrival in Tehran the guide takes the wrong road several times; the city is one big chaos, drivers are madmen with the steering wheel in their hands, the police stand helplessly at the roadside without intervening, and 10 campers in the middle of this chaos send the traffic into a meltdown; after various inquiries we reach the hotel; No. 1 and the guide go in to ask where to park; after exactly one hour they come back and we finally reach the place where we will spend the night; exhausted, we don't dwell on what happened and do nothing but eat a bite and go to bed.

The only point that can be made is that the Iranian guide had not prepared the route to take in advance, and to avoid wandering aimlessly through this hell of a city and making us wait so long before settling us in the parking lot.

0/0 – Shiraz – in flight

Wake up at 3 am, minibus to the airport, the flight to Shiraz at 8:40, departed right on time, arrival after an hour; the only negative note is that there were 5 crews participating in this trip, 10 people in total, and the tickets turned out to be only 9, so couple No. 9 stayed behind, all because of the agency's incompetence in getting the bookings wrong. At the airport exit we meet our guide: Mitla, a woman who speaks perfect Italian having lived 9 years in Naples, married with two children born in Italy; she is very nice and it's pleasant to talk with her, but we immediately notice that she is very fundamentalist and to many of our questions she doesn't answer.

We set off in a minibus to visit Persepolis, a very important archaeological site; it is imposing, you walk a lot between one structure and another, and even though the humidity is zero, the 40 degrees and more are felt, and the return to the minibus is a relief for everyone. Lunch in a very beautiful and characteristic place offered by the agency to apologize for yesterday evening's mishap; after lunch a siesta in their characteristic beds in the garden. Visit to the city with its mausoleums, the mosques — the one covered with mirrors is fantastic — and finally the bazaar could not be missed. All very beautiful and interesting. The plane is at 21:55, departed on time and arrived on time. Hadi was there punctually waiting for us, but the minibus that was supposed to take us back to the campers was almost an hour late; tired and worn out, we got a bit heated.

On our return an unpleasant surprise: the rest of the group had decided that the next day the trip would continue, skipping the visit to the city; strong protests from us that we would have seen nothing of Tehran; in the end No. 1 decides that everything will proceed as planned.

0/0 – Tehran – Lahet Hotel

The discussion continues with the rest of the company who wanted to set off again; the minibus that had been cancelled the evening before and then requested again is late in arriving. While waiting it is decided to visit Mount Tochal with the cable car made available to us free of charge by the manager of the resort; we go up to 2935 m, beautiful panorama, there are ski lifts and a ski slope — naturally there's no snow; at the Tochal hotel we drink tea in a luxurious room; they inform us that a double room with half board costs $ 130.00 — even here skiing is not for everyone. In the afternoon, with the arrival of the minibus, a visit to the National Museum and the Museum of Islam, very interesting, also because you see what was missing at Persepolis; Hadi, moreover, explains clearly and engagingly the history and the most important events in the history of Persia.

Dinner at Restaurant Ghazak Adeh Sonnati with music ($ 10 per person)

647/5132 – P. at the police post along the road

Departure at 7 am An ugly surprise awaits us: due to flooding of a stretch of road we were supposed to travel, we have to make a detour of more than 200 km on a very bad and narrow mountain road, which unfortunately we do at night; we have an appointment at the customs with the guide and we cannot be late; we stop for an hour's rest and then continue.

607/5739 – Ashgabat (Turkmenistan) – Nissan Hotel

We set off again at three, but we are too tired; we stop again shortly after for a two-hour sleep and set off again; we will travel relentlessly; the little rest causes No. 9 to doze off at the wheel with a swerve of the vehicle immediately brought under control, avoiding crashing into the mountain. Arrival at the Iranian customs at 14:10, exit from the Turkish customs at 17:05

Continues in "Samarkand 2005" Part Four

215/8516 – Mashhad (Iran) – Homa Hotel

CONTINUES FROM "Samarcanda 2005" Part Six

Bright and early we present ourselves at customs and wait for the arrival of the local commander. Once again we explain the reason for our delay, which the police chief of Mary can confirm. In the meantime I had prepared the photos of the accident on the computer to show him. Elena almost burst into tears. The bureaucrat would not listen to reason. To cross we had to pay $118 per camper for the visa renewal. This sum could have been avoided if we had arrived on time. I feel guilty because of the accident that happened to me, everyone had to shell out unexpected money. I know…….. it wasn't my fault, but it troubles me all the same. At the last barrier of Turkmenistan, another vehicle check. They confiscate or force us to drink all the alcohol in our possession, bottles or cans that we bought in their country but that they don't want taken into Iran, where the use of alcohol is prohibited.

Once this adventure is over, we arrive at the Iranian customs, where we find the good Hadi again, who will help us with the endless customs procedures of his country. The clock is moved back an hour and a half. We arrive in Mashhad and it is already evening. Unfortunately the city tour is skipped, a city regarded by Muslims as the third holiest after Mecca and Medina. Once we arrive and are settled in the hotel parking lot, its manager shows us the gardens and the outdoor pavilions, where he offers us tea, then a minibus takes us to a fabulous restaurant, where we finally eat well. Besides the usual things, there are some delicious lamb chops; there are many of them, and the waiters attentively bring us little boxes to save the leftovers. Satisfied and with full bellies, we head toward the center where, at the end of a long avenue, is the mausoleum of Imam Reza.

Unfortunately we can only admire it from the outside; there are hours tourists must respect. Hadi tries to get us inside but it's impossible. The tour continues at the usual bazaar, then everyone off to bed.

520/9036 – Sharud – Bastam Tourist Hotel

Departure at 8:30. The person who was supposed to escort us out of the city traffic arrived late, but without him Hadi wouldn't have been able to navigate this chaotic city, with the multitude of pilgrims who arrive and depart every day to visit the tomb of Imam Reza. Along the way we visit the Rubat Sharaf caravanserai on the Silk Road, a beautiful structure that is being renovated, not to restore it to its ancient splendor but to turn it into a hotel.

536/9572 – Kordan – Varzeshi Hotel

We are informed that during the journey we will be followed and filmed, and later interviewed by a local TV station. The program included a visit to an ancient mosque in Damghan and a visit to the pistachio town of Semnan. We proceed without stopping, first at the mosque and then at the town of Semnan, without anyone warning us of this change. Suddenly, over the radio, they warn us to close ranks, to travel very close together and compactly, because the TV was filming us. Then we stop in a square and the interviews begin. The pseudo-director's questions are translated by Hadi; some are intelligent, others very stupid. At the end no. 1 speaks up who, without being asked, makes a speech in defense of Iran and against America—not very appropriate, because he presented himself as the group's spokesperson without consulting it. Many people don't share his political ideas and disagreed.

Moreover, I found his manner out of place. We are campers, we are at peace and bearers of peace; our interest is that there be no barriers and borders, that one can travel the world without hindrance of any kind. I know……… this is utopia, but creating hatred against another people, to me, is very wrong. At the end of the day, on the Tehran ring road, Hadi surprises us: he has us stop in a large square where there is a large structure. Some say it's a big supermarket, then he explains that it's Komeini's mausoleum. We visit it barefoot; it is grand, it isn't finished yet, but I would like to see it completed; it will be an imposing thing.

o/o - Isfahan – Varzeshi Hotel

We wake up very early. The minibus arrives at 3:30 and takes us to the airport in about an hour. The plane is at 6:00, departure on time, smooth flight, arrival at 7:00. Here we are welcomed by the guide: a kind lady who speaks perfect Italian, has never been to Italy, and studied our language here in her city. She is not religious and wears the veil because it is imposed on her. From her we hear the other side of the coin, the voice of the opposition. Isfahan presents itself as a beautiful city, orderly and clean. First of all our guide takes us to see the old bridges, now pedestrian-only, then the fire mountain and the shaking minarets, a glance at the great square, one of the most beautiful and largest in the world, and then lunch. Today is the first day of Ramadan, the restaurants are closed; she finds a solution by taking us to a hotel for tourists, where we eat very well.

We return to the great square and visit the palaces and mosques that surround it, and finally the bazaar could not be missing. No. 10 has to buy a carpet that his daughter commissioned from him. It was supposed to be of a certain type, a certain size, and a certain color. Our guide takes us to a large shop, where what was requested is found. After confirming by text message, the daughter gives the OK and the purchase is made. Then we go to a miniature shop. One of us proposes a collective purchase of a small picture to give to no. 1; I don't think it's appropriate and I refuse to take part in the collection. They will split the cost among 9 instead of 10. To kill time until departure we have tea in a characteristic place under one of the bridges we visited this morning. Back at the airport, all sleepy and tired, we take the 23:00 flight and return to the campers.

We will get to the hotel at 1:30.

273/9845 – Ramsar – Ramsar Hotel

Departure at 8:30. Today Hadi travels with us; we are at the head and leading the column. Having the guide in the camper is nice: you can ask him many things about his country, details of his private life, curiosities, and behavior in their religion. At this time there is Ramadan and he, being very religious, respects it, but being on a trip, far from his home, he is exempt from doing so; he will have to make up these days at another time within the year. We promise him for noon what he likes so much: spaghetti with tomato sauce and parmesan. However, no. 1 sticks his oar in: being behind schedule, he decides that the lunch break will be half an hour. Goodbye spaghetti—he'll have to settle for canned food and tomato salad. Hadi vents and calls no. 1 a "Tyrant." The route is mountainous with ups and downs.

Unfortunately I overuse the brakes, which overheat, and after lunch, setting off again, I notice that the vehicle no longer brakes. I stop immediately with the handbrake. The whole column stops. Hadi asks about a mechanic; he is 5 km down the road. I reach him slowly. After bleeding the brakes and adding fluid, we set off again. We lost three hours. I would later learn that in the accident the rear brake lines were damaged and I was braking only with the front, thus overheating them. We reach Ramsar when it is already dark. The hotel parking lot is almost at the seafront; we can hear it but not see it. Of course, by day it would have been a beautiful sight. Hadi proposes a visit to the thermal baths and the bazaar, then a fish dinner at a local restaurant. Everyone agrees to the bazaar visit, but for dinner there are only three couples of us.

Some don't want to see the baths before the bazaar because they're not interested, so the minibus, which had already entered the baths, turns back toward the center to take everyone to the bazaar. It starts to rain, the first rain in more than a month of travel. Many return on the minibus, others take a taxi and go straight back to the campers. After the disappointing visit to the baths, we go to dinner. Besides us, the crew of no. 1 and 8 join. Excellent—the fish is good and well cooked. Back we go, and everyone off to bed. Tomorrow we leave early.

280/10125 – Anzali – Sefidkenar Hotel

No. 1 decides that tonight we won't go to Anzali, but directly to Tabriz; we'll find out later that he needs to buy more carpets at the bazaar in that city and needs time to be able to choose. Visit to the village of Masulek, a beautiful little mountain town; when you arrive it looks like any other, but as we make our way along the paths and alleys we realize that the houses are built right against the mountain and the roof of one house, with its respective chimneys, becomes the terrace of the house above it; the inevitable bazaar has its stalls on the roofs of the houses below.

Here we stock up on the typical local sweets, all made with honey and walnuts, cakes and biscuits with an outrageous calorie content — we're on holiday, you mustn't worry about these things!!!!! During the visit to this lovely little town, one thing saddens us: we see women gathered around a small house stretching their hands toward a little window from which packages are being thrown. Hadi explains to us that those people are the poor of the village and what they receive are pieces of lamb meat; this animal has been sacrificed (its throat cut) and offered to God for a favor received. Another mishap with my camper: the clutch pedal cable breaks; another search for a mechanic, whom I reach without being able to change gear; replacement of the cable — fortunately the mechanic has a similar one — and off we go again. I am very bitter……… it always happens to me.

Hadi cheers me up in his own way; he tells me that God is putting me to the test, but that He loves me, and he suggests I offer a lamb to the poor, to thank Him because things could have gone worse. I don't really believe it but I respect his conviction, and mindful of this morning's scene, we accept his proposal — certainly not because of what he told us, but to give food to those who need it; I consider this expense more right than buying a carpet. The repair takes time and we return to the old plan; we arrive in Anzali when it's already dark. In the evening my wife manages to call from the hotel ($15 for 3 minutes) to Italy, to the boarding house, to hear how the cats are doing: bad news — Principessa hasn't eaten and hasn't moved for a few days; the lady is afraid she's dying and asks, in an inappropriate way, what she should do if it happens, whether to cremate her or bury her.

She brings me the news in tears and I feel awful too; she's just a cat but you grow attached to her like to a human being. We go to bed with great melancholy.

444/10569 – Tabriz – Pars Hotel

Departure 6:30. Along the way No. 4 reports a brake problem; we stop immediately and notice an oil leak at the front right wheel. Hadi immediately takes care of tracking down a mechanic, who, not having the replacement hose, can do nothing but plug the inlet and outlet and cut off the oil flow to that wheel; tomorrow in Turkey, in Agri, at the Fiat dealership, the repair will be taken care of. Today, along the road, we found drivers, particularly truckers, meaner than usual; during their overtaking, more than one of us was literally forced off the road onto the dirt shoulder. The hotel parking lot is beautiful; after we get settled, Hadi suggests a visit to a nearby lake that is very beautiful. We decline: we're tired and I have a pain in the tendon of my right foot that hurts and I don't feel like walking. We have a nice plate of spaghetti and then off to bed.

I'll be told later that the lake wasn't much and that those who went to dinner at the hotel ate well but also spent a lot.

290/10859 – Barzagan (Iran/ Turkey Customs) – P. at customs

A minibus at 8 takes us to the center for a visit to the Blue Mosque, very beautiful and interesting for its distinctive decorations of an intense blue; then to the museum: small but instructive; and finally everyone to the bazaar, where we meet up with the 6 who, having already seen Tabriz last year, weren't with us on the previous excursions. Hadi and No. 4 will go looking for the hose that broke yesterday to replace it. Among the various and endless shops, the women indulge in all kinds of shopping; No. 1 finally manages to buy the last carpets. I hope they don't check his camper at customs, otherwise there'll be trouble. Meeting at the bazaar exit at 11; the minibus arrives on time with No. 4, who has found the hose.

Back to the hotel, and after filling up with water, we leave the hotel parking lot — not before retrieving my power cable, which last night had been hooked up to their control panel in a rather unorthodox way; since they didn't have a Schuko socket, they used mine, connecting it with two jumper cables. In trying to detach them, the attendant made contact with the frame and everything blew. I recovered my cable and left that reckless fool to deal with the damage he'd caused. Immediately we set off for the border, stopping in a small village where a mechanic will try to fit the hose on No. 4, without succeeding since it isn't the right one, while everyone has lunch. Arrival at customs at 18:30; the customs formalities begin: carnet, passports and various documents.

Meanwhile our guide presents us with the bill for what he spent for us during the entire period in Iran that he accompanied us: for the diesel consumed (mine: 573 liters), for the dinners, for the minibuses used, for the tickets for the various entrances to museums and monuments; in total €85 (eighty-five) — truly a paltry sum. All the customs paperwork stops because they report from Turkey that the computers are down; therefore everything is postponed to tomorrow morning. We'll sleep in the customs lot; everyone in bed at 21:30. At 22:00 a soldier wakes us and informs us that we can cross the border. Dressed again and sleepy, we continue the formalities and finally find ourselves across the border; still on the lot, we stop for the night.

CONTINUED IN "Samarcanda 2005" Part Eight