Bucharest and the Castles of Transylvania

A bit of an unlucky start: MYAIR, an airline to avoid.

We bought the plane tickets via the internet from MyAir because it was the only company offering the direct Milan – Bucharest connection, besides Easy Jet which, however, departs from Malpensa.

The times chosen were truly perfect to make the most of the long weekend, with departure from Orio al Serio at 7:00 on November 1st and return at 21:00 on November 4th.

The departure, however, was rescheduled repeatedly a few days earlier, finally setting the takeoff time at 17:15. Arriving at the airport all together (9 people), we discover that the delay was actually 4 hours! Estimated takeoff time now 21:30: I'll draw a veil over the chaos that followed. The ideal thing, having landed in Bucharest, in our case at Bucharest Baneasa, 4 km from the city center, to reach the city is to use bus 783 which connects the airports directly to the center of the city.

Unfortunately, landing at midnight, the bus service, bus line no. 783 that connects the two airports to the city center (Piata Unirii) had already ended, so we try to join up with other passengers to make the most of the only 3 taxis available. The taxi drivers negotiate on the price, the discussion is quite lively and in the end we get to pay 100 Lei per taxi. All this is wrong because they should have simply turned on the meter, a friend who lives in Bucharest explained to us that those, in reality, were not authorized taxis and that we should have called the police but, as you know, it almost never works that way.

The fact is that in the end our very kind taxi driver takes us to our hostel, complete with a city explanation in tour-guide style. At our destination he asks us for the agreed 100 Lei. Our companions, however, have a completely different experience. The taxi, having arrived at the other passengers' hotel, stops on a rather isolated little street, and asks for 200 Lei per person! They start arguing because the agreement was different, in the end, also a bit pressured by the not very safe situation, they pay 200 Lei for the ride to be divided among 3. Furthermore, he leaves our travel companion alone, several kilometers from our hostel, in the middle of the night in a somewhat "marginal" area. The first impression is not the best. Our hostel, The Midland Youth Hostel, however, is still nice, clean, and in an excellent position. The staff, all very young, are very courteous and helpful.

Booked through the hostelworld site, the cost each for three nights is 40 Euros and includes breakfast.

We are the Champions my friends…

After a somewhat stormy start, we have an appointment at 9:00 at the sports center in the middle of the park… for the presentation of the teams and the beginning of the competitions of the IV Qwan Ki Do World Championships 2007

Our hostel, right next to the university, is really convenient also because, besides being in the historic center, it's very close to the metro. We buy the daily ticket (4 lei). The metro is fast, convenient, easy to understand and clean, and we'll use it often. We get off at the National Multi-purpose Sports Complex of Bucharest - Rue Calea Piscului Nr. 10 and walk through the entire park, a nice long walk through beautifully manicured greenery. From the top of the park, you overlook the city, with the immense and gleaming white Parliament standing out.

The competition, with very fierce cheering, keeps us busy until evening with only one break to eat, during which we take the opportunity to confirm the castles tour booked by email, near our hostel. The staff at the Romadria agency (rodica@romadria.ro) is professional, punctual, courteous and very helpful. The tour is confirmed for Sunday. The championship is a clash between Romania, France and Italy, which wins several medals in all categories (Technical: national Black Belt and CoVoDao teams, Fighting: national Men's and Women's Rank teams)

At the end of the competitions, together with a friend who has moved to Bucharest, we go to eat at the most famous and oldest brewery in the city, Caru' cu Bere. The establishment dates back to 1875 and offers a Gothic-style atmosphere, so appreciated that you have to book to find a seat. (Address: Str Stavropoleos 3-5, Metro: Piata Universitatii/Piata Unirii 2, Tel: +40 21 313 7560)

Beer lovers will feel at home at Caru' cu Bere. The oldest brewery in Bucharest dates back to 1875 and offers a Gothic-style atmosphere inspired by Dracula. Address: Str Stavropoleos 3-5 Metro: Piata Universitatii/Piata Unirii 2 Tel: +40 21 313 7560

Let's explore the city!

The day would begin at 9:00 with the National Black Belt Men's and Women's Fighting, but between the group that got back at 6 in the morning and us, who frankly would like to visit the city, we consciously decide to "skip" it and, with my boyfriend, map and Lonely Planet in hand, we visit the most interesting places in the city.

The main tourist attractions of the city are: 1) historic center (churches, palaces, memorial sites) 2) Parliament 3) National Museum of Art 4) Village Park and Museum

Based on what I was advised by Romanian colleagues, the city can be visited in a day (without spending time inside the museums) but unfortunately, we don't have the whole day available and I'm forced to give up the National Museum of Art. We start from the historic center, near our hostel, retracing the streets we visited the night before. We start from University Square (Piata Universitatii), next to our hostel, which was the scene of some of the most ferocious phases of the 1989 revolution, looking for the bullet marks on the buildings and the 10 stone crosses in memory of the victims and the black cross that marks the spot where at 17:30 on December 21, 1989 the first demonstrator died. I can't find them! How come? In the end my boyfriend points out the traffic island to me...

I'm left desolate, to the point of not even taking a photo! We set off on foot, a bit chilled, for the historic center.

HISTORIC CENTER It's striking how among the tall buildings, some very modern and others clearly of Parisian inspiration, you suddenly discover tiny churches enclosed within themselves, surrounded by tall trees that seem to protect them from metropolitan life. We entered almost all the churches, Orthodox, all very similar, without however managing to visit the interior because a "strange ceremony" was underway: Outside the first one we meet a girl and ask her what's happening. Very courteously and in good English, she explains that it's the commemoration of the dead (it's true!) and that in their tradition the whole morning is dedicated to services during which the faithful bring food, drinks and dishes of all kinds. In the center of the small and somewhat winding churches a long table is set up where the products are blessed.

You know, traditional dishes next to a bottle of Coca-Cola! At the end of the service, families take the blessed food home and offer it to relatives and friends who will come to visit them in the afternoon, << a small blessed gift to send home with those who will come to visit us to pay homage to our dear departed. >> The Orthodox masses are very evocative: the "priest" wrapped in the thick smoke of incense moving rhythmically, advances with a determined step, hidden in his long black cassock, with his black colback and long beard, among the choir of faithful bowed over their rosaries. The cadence of the prayers, the darkness of the narrow churches, and the strong faith of the participants are similar in all the churches. For this reason we can't bring ourselves to go beyond a few centimeters from the threshold.

We are only spectators, and we don't want to foolishly disturb their devotion.

The beautiful Stavropoleos Church absolutely deserves a visit, a small architectural gem, with an ancient portico at the back, with stunning frescoes and, during autumn, covered with many golden leaves.

We also walk along Via Lipscani, and despite being the historic center it still looks like a battlefield, devastated houses line the central street. Stray dogs are everywhere but, fortunately, they aren't aggressive. The "dog question" too is a leftover from the old regime. The establishment of the communist regime took place at the end of World War II and marked a definitive change for the city of Bucharest. About a sixth of the central neighborhoods were demolished to build imposing buildings and palaces at the behest of the dictator Ceausescu. The owners of prestigious houses were evicted to make room for party leaders. The results have been many: all the (very many) people evicted were placed in the "blocuri" i.e. cube-shaped apartment blocks of the regime, all the animals abandoned on the street because it was forbidden to bring them into the new homes.

Entire Belle Epoque areas, with unique churches and palaces, destroyed. The irony of "reconquered freedom" are the thousands of court battles to regain ownership of the old houses now in economically interesting positions. (if you're a lawyer, in Romania, you could find a goldmine!)

After a long walk, in which our travel companions also join us, we reach Unirii Square, i.e. the immense fountain that interrupts the Boulevard leading to the "Casa Poporului". The boulevard, commissioned by the dictator, is deliberately 6 meters longer than the Parisian one. You walk along a very long avenue immersed in the autumn colors of the large trees lining the avenue, with the Parliament constantly dominating the view. It feels like you can touch it, like you've arrived, but it's not so! Only when you get right below the building do you realize its cyclopean dimensions. Despite its construction having been ordered by the dictator, the "Casa del Popolo", i.e. the Parliament, is loved by the citizens.

The second largest building in the world by surface area after the United States Pentagon, with more than 1,000 rooms, it is the pride of the work of the greatest Romanian architects and craftsmen, all the materials used (marble, crystal, carpets, fabrics, etc.) come from the various regions of Romania.

The visit, compulsorily guided in Romanian or English, allows you to visit only 5% of the building and lasts 45 min but it's truly worth it. You remain astonished by the craftsmanship and the quantity of gleaming white carved marble. (Entrance 15 Lei). From the central balcony you can admire almost the whole city and you're even more struck by the size of the building.

We return to Piata Unirii to head towards our next stop dedicated to the city's Cathedral, unfortunately wrapped in scaffolding. The services have meanwhile finished and it's possible to admire the golds and frescoes. The Patriarchal Cathedral, at the top of the Patriarchate Hill, gathers next to it a complex of interesting buildings and is the most important place for the Romanian Orthodox faith. Inside I immediately looked for the 1658 icon, also the age of the structure, depicting Constantine and Helena, the patron saints of Romania. The atmosphere was a bit surreal, between the mysticism of the "perpetual" women hidden by black veils concentrated in their chants rhythmic with the rosary in their knotted hands and the girls in aprons washing the floor with the mop after the blessing of the food!

On the way there is also the Monastery of Prince Radu and the Church of Bucur the Shepherd, dating back to 1743 and dedicated to the legendary founder of the city, yes because Bucharest was (legend has it) founded by the mythical shepherd Bucur (joy) even though the first document attesting to the city's existence was signed by the "mythical" Prince Vlad.

At 15:00 we would like to be present for the technical demonstration of different Martial Arts and of the WUQKD delegation with the participation of the Founding Master Pham Xuan Tong, so we make it back to the sports center just in time. The park, with the slanting light and a slight mist on the lawns, is even more beautiful.

Encore - evening

In the evening, we want to try a traditional restaurant but it's Saturday and it seems impossible to find a place without having booked. There are nine of us and not everyone has the patience to wait, so we settle for the only one that accepts us (after "knocking on about 7 doors"). It's the Dracula themed restaurant. The atmosphere is nice, nice is also the price on the menu. We limit ourselves to simple dishes of the Romanian tradition, postponing (for the guys) to after the actual meal. The food is scant and not all that good. AVOID THIS RESTAURANT. Split up again, we retrace our steps to look for a spot again at the Caru' cu Bere. Finally they accept us. We drink the very good beer and the guys eat, finally with adequate portions and, above all, with a completely different taste!

In the evening we try to get into several clubs but we don't want to stay because we're very tired and, therefore, we just peek into the various student-organized parties.

Sibiu, Peles, Bran, Brasov