North Cape 2004 Part Two

Oslo 33 - 293/2155 - Camping Ekeberg 390 nok (2 days) www.ekebergcamping.no

Continued from "North Cape 2004" Part One

Wake-up at 7, departure at 8 when the reception opens, after emptying and filling the water. Tonight was very cold (14°) and we turned on the heater. The motorway goes as far as Uddevalla then on an old two-lane road, it will resume in Norway. During the journey, Tina, reading the green TCI booklet, spotted an interesting little village, so we left the motorway and went to Fjallbacka, a narrow but very interesting road, through oak and birch woods, then hugging the sea we arrived at a characteristic fishing village wedged into a small fjord.

30/1862 - 118 Fjallbacka - P at the Port

NORWAY

Diesel per litre € 1.01 - 1.00 - 1.09 - 1.07 - 0.96 - 1.05 - 1.08 - 1.14 - 1.10 - 1.12 -

Exchange rate: 8.1451

At the border a new declaration for the cats, another stamp and without further formalities we set off again. To get to the Ekeberg campsite, the one closest to the city, continue on the motorway, at a certain point, it splits into Oslo North and Oslo Centre, follow Oslo Centre, after paying for the second time there will be the exit with the Camping Ekeberg sign, as a campsite it's not much, it's not level, it doesn't have electricity for everyone, I had to build contraptions with double plugs to connect, and something never seen before: you pay for a minimum of 4 people.

Oslo 33 - 293/2155 - Camping Ekeberg

What we saw: National Gallery - City Hall (Radhuset) - Akershus Fortress) - Royal Palace (Kongelige Slott) - Changing of the guard at 13.30 - Cathedral (Domkirke) Tonight was cold and we put the heater on low. In the morning a bright sun. We didn't buy the Oslo card because, all things considered, it's not worth it. Departure at 8, bus no. 34 or 46, the stop is just outside the campsite, get off at the central station (Sentralstasjon), ATTENTION to catch it for the return the stop is in the street ahead on the right.Oslo is very beautiful and interesting, what disappointed me today was the changing of the guard: very simple and nothing spectacular.

At lunch we stopped at a Mc Donald's, for me it was the first time I had lunch in a place like that, now I've understood that it will also be the last, if I have to save money, because here everything costs very much, next time I'll make myself a sandwich.

Sandefjord 52 - 87/2307 - P at the port 8 nok

Oslo 33 - 19/2174 -

What we saw: Vigeland Park - Viking Ship Museum (Vikingskipene) - Kon-Tiki Museum - Fram Museum At 8 we leave the campsite after filling up with water, head down towards the centre following the "ring 2" sign, we stop first at Vigeland Park, parking in front of the main entrance, the sky is overcast and while we visit the park with all its statues a light drizzle catches us, but we carry on, the place is beautiful and a few drops are bearable, we pick up the "ring 2" again until we find the sign for Bygdoy, on this peninsula there are various museums, we visited the ones we considered the best. For those who don't want to move around by camper, you can take the boat near the fortress which will take you to where the first two museums are and then a little train to the others.

Drammen 50 - 46/2220 -

In the afternoon we take the E18 and along the coast we stop at Drammen, I had heard and read about this spiral road carved into the mountain and wanted to drive it, it's distinctive, practically a 1650 mt long curve to be driven entirely in second gear, at the top the panorama is magnificent

52 Sandefjord

What to see: Tourist town - Whaling Museum 80 nok

Arendal 53 - 142/2481 - P. 12 nok

Last night after doing the shopping at a supermarket, we stopped in a parking lot near the port. This morning we slept in, the museum opened at 11 (at 10 after 24/6), after wandering around the port and visiting the historic center, shortly before 11 we were at the museum, small but interesting. We continue on the E16, only two lanes but flowing, speed limit 70/80 km per hour and EVERYONE respects it

52 Stavern (Larvik) 32/2339

The port of Larvik is worth a little stroll, we had lunch by the sea. During the trip I saw a gas station with a symbol for camper dumping, I tried a new type: an electrically opening metal hatch, so you can position yourself with the camper, open it and dump, then close it again, without the danger of falling in with your wheels.

Arendal, the Venice of the North

Whoever said that hasn't seen Venice, anyway it's nice, worth a stop This evening after checking the rear storage compartment I noticed that the food supplies are deteriorating, so the potatoes ended up boiled to eat as salad, with the apples I made a cake, I must say it turned out well and the greedy one (Tina) ate a big slice and would have taken another if I hadn't reminded her about her beloved triglycerides.

Lungo la strada 11 - 212/2828 - Area di sosta

54 Kristiansand - 78/2559 - P. at the port 10 nok

It rained all night and continued for almost the whole day, after visiting Kristiansand, which was quite disappointing, the plan was to continue along the coast to Stavanger, but, tired of the sea, we opted for the mountains, leaving the E12 we took the 9 and began to climb, the road is initially two wide lanes with a good surface, then it narrows to a single wide lane.

Setesdal - 57/2616 - P at the park What to see: Mineral Park

The scenery is very beautiful, you follow the Otra river, first through woods then on a barren wind-swept plateau, at an intersection you leave the 9 and take the 11 to the left, the one coming from Oslo We're in a rest area at 1000 meters above sea level, with a fabulous spectacle: snow-covered mountains and the sun setting. Now a German camper has pulled up, it will keep us company tonight. Wonder of wonders, the facilities at this rest area are in stainless steel, there's a changing room for the baby changing table and it's heated

Bergen 74 - 76/3100 - Area di sosta sul mare Helgheim 150 nok

67 Roldal - 26/2854 - P at the church

What to see: Stavkirke (wooden church) It's early and it's raining, the church opens at 10, we continue

Latefoss - 29/2883 - P. at the waterfalls What to see: Waterfalls

Odda - 14/2897 - P at the central square What to see: Center

Ferry Brimnes/Buravik - 10 min - 135nok - 61/2958 Fossen - 66/3024 - P at the waterfall What to see: Waterfall

Today the weather was all over the place, sun, rain and then sun again. Scenic road with fabulous vistas, but very narrow with pull-outs to pass each other

74 Bergen

What to see: Torget (fish market) - Fortress (Bergehus) - Bryggen harbor district (old red houses) UNESCO protection - Korskirken - Dennorke - Bank Mriakirken -Domkirke - City Hall Radhus - Gamle Bergen open-air museum Park (Lille Lungegardsvann) Seaside rest area Helgheim 150 nok (exit by 2 pm, for extra hours 10 kr per hour) To get to the parking lot you have to head towards north Bergen, cross the city keeping the sea on your left, after the fortress, still on the left, right after a curve you'll see the parking lot

Flam 63 (Flambana) - 168/3268 - P. max 2 ore

Bergen is a nice little town with multi-coloured houses; among the usual churches and fortresses, I was struck by the interior of the bank (Dennoke Bank) and the fish market, where we met Sergio, son of Italians, from Cantu (CO), born in Argentina, who, after talking at length about Italy and Berlusconi, sold us some shrimps, some smoked herrings, and a piece of salmon; if you go to this market, look for him, you'll make him very happy. Back at the car park, after having lunch, filling up and emptying out, we set off again respecting the 2 p.m. time; the landlady is quite unpleasant and I didn't want to give her one more krone. Turning left and following the road you reach Gamle Bergen: a disappointment, houses and little houses that you can find anywhere in Norway, some furnished but closed, you can only see them through the windows.

Voss - p. Along the E6 road - what to see: waterfalls

Following the E6 (towards Oslo) you cross magnificent valleys, an easy road, a spectacle guaranteed if, like today, the weather is fine.

Flam (Flambana)

What to see: Little train with panoramic view to Myrdal and back (500 Kr)

Folkestad - 29/3489 - Camping Helset - 130 kr - www.helset-hytter.tk

A sunny day, suitable for the trip on the Flambana, this railway that climbs into the mountains crossing valleys with spectacular views and waterfalls; here you can't stop taking photos. This beautiful day was not overshadowed by what happened to us last night: we arrived yesterday evening and parked in the square of the railway station, along with other campervans; at midnight, already asleep, someone knocked and a person who introduced himself as a security officer told us that we couldn't park there because it wasn't prudent and it was forbidden, in fact there was a sign, which honestly I hadn't seen; the other campervans moved and we followed them, we stopped at the nearby campsite, it was dark and closed, I parked in the square in front of the entrance, shortly afterwards a man assured us that we could stay, but he couldn't let us in so as not to disturb the others and that anyway we

had to pay for the day; we didn't argue and paid; in the morning at 8:30 we asked to put the campervan inside so we could then go to the station, negative answer: you can't come in because you'd disturb, meanwhile other campervans were leaving, if we wanted to leave the campervan in the campsite we had to wait until ten and pay for another day; let's forget it and we moved on, parking in front of the railway; a doubt arises: that security guy, wasn't he perhaps sent by the campsite????....... I'm starting to find Norwegians unpleasant. On our return, happy and satisfied with what we had seen, we celebrated by putting a fabulous pizza in the oven; I had put the dough to rise before leaving, the mozzarella and anchovies were part of the supplies bought before departure.

61/3329 Ferry: Fondnes/Mannheller 10 min 243nok

Toll road 150nok

131/3460 - Ferry: Anta/Lote - 8 min - 66 nok

The E39 runs wide with two lanes and little traffic, only narrowing in a few places. We go through many tunnels, the longest was 24.5 km. We stop at a small campsite in a small village, very simple but clean, basically it's a farm that rents out a meadow for camping; Schizzo and Principessa have fun on the meadow. Nearby they are celebrating summer; today 23 June in Norway, it is customary to celebrate with dinners, dances and by lighting large bonfires, the change of season. I change the first cylinder, I brought 4, three of 13 kg and one of 10 kg

94 Molde - 2/3645 - (Città delle rose) - P. 30 nok

16/3505 - Ferry: Folkestad/volda - 10 min - 71 nok (6 mt) 47/3552 - Ferry: Festoya/Solavagen - 15 min - 158 nok (7 mt)

21/3573 - 96 Alesund - Service area - 50 nok

Typical town with buildings in German style Tourist ride on the little train 160 nok. Alesund is a town characterised by the style of its houses, very different from the others seen so far; a ride on the little train takes us to see Alesund from the top of a hill, spectacular!!! if need be you can go up with campervans, I saw two, but it is very difficult and it's not worth damaging a side panel.

70/3643 Ferry: Vestnes/Molde - 30 min -237nok (7 mt) Now we are stopped in a car park in front of the Methodist church, tomorrow morning we'll visit the town

87 Trondheim - 153/3869 - P. autogrill fuori città

Molde is a modern town without any particular character, we visit the centre and the port, then we do a bit of shopping and set off again

Toll road 88 nok

71/3716 - Ferry Kanestraum/Halsa - 20min - 195 nok (8 mt)

Toll road 30+35+15 nok

Toll road 20 nok

It is pouring with rain, after having looked for the rest area at the port, without success, at the tourist office they will later tell us that it has been abolished, we stop at the camper parking near the cathedral (15 nok), here they warn us that we cannot stay for the night, we visit the church in a hurry, unfortunately there was an organ concert and you couldn't move around freely, we go out and visit the centre, still in the rain, there would have been other things to see, but, we give up, we leave the town and make for the first petrol station on the A6, a nice place equipped for campers. Angry, I calm down by making a tart with green tomato jam made last year, Tina liked it, in spite of her triglycerides.

280/4390 - 100 Masjoen - Camping Mosjoen - 130 nok

Last night was very disturbed, here too there are idiots who at night have fun with scooters with open exhaust pipes, in the morning, sleepy, we unload and load and set off again. The A6 at the beginning seems like the autostrada del sole, with 4 lanes, then becomes three and finally two, then it ends completely and continues normally, occasionally with good surface alternating with rough, in any case fairly flat allowing a speed even of 80 per hour.

145/4014 - 99 Steinkier

What to see: Prehistoric tumuli

We looked for this prehistoric place, but we didn't find it.

96/4110 - 100 Grong

What to see: Fiskum rapids

We want to sleep peacefully, to be sure we go to a campsite

35/4563 - Fauske - P. con C/S

Visiting the town, nothing particular, we see a marvellous car park where several campers have stopped for the night The town says nothing, but, still at Mosjen along the E6 there is a beautiful little wooden church, which deserves a stop

138/4528 - Arctic Circle - P. After the classic stop on the square of the Arctic Circle, along the road, on the right and on the left flows a river where there are marvellous rapids to photograph. After the pass a very fast road, for the first time I see the 90 speed sign.

Fauske

We stop at the gates of the town, after a bridge on the left, there is a dirt area by the sea, with many fishermen, we spent a quiet night.

5/4661 - 113 "A" - P. Museo dello stoccafisso

61/4624 - 110 Saltstraumen - P. under the bridge

On the bridge a view of the whirlpool that forms with the high/low tide, spectacular. To see the phenomenon you have to be there at fixed times that change every day about every six hours

32/4656 - 110 Bodo Ferry Bodo/Moskenes (Lofoten) - 3.30 hours - 1263 nok - 7 mt

Departure times: 4.30 - 7.00 - 10.30 - 15.30 - 18.30 - 23.30 - The crossing lasts 3.30 hours. The night crossing is discounted, on Sundays you pay more. During the crossing a rude Norwegian, during a momentary absence of ours, had occupied the two seats covered by our clothes, throwing them on the ground, at our protests he walked away grumbling. On the ferry we met two couples from Ivrea who followed us as far as "A" then set off again.

113 Moskenes - "A" What to see: Fishermen's museum A very beautiful, characteristic village, not to be missed.

41/4754 - Borg - P. ????

Back on the road on a very narrow and winding road

10/4671 - 117 Reine The pearl of the Lofoten - P. along the fjord

Fishing village

Most beautiful fjord in Norway Nice little town but, certainly, not a pearl

42/4713 - 113 Nusfjord

Fishing village on red stilts protected by Unesco On the road we met up again with the friends from Ivrea, who were fishing, we decided to continue the journey together. The road widens and is faster

000 Borg

What we saw: Viking Museum 140 nok

Stopped for the night in an unspecified town in a nice quiet parking area, with a feast of fish caught by the friends from Ivrea, cooked in various ways: baked, in a pan with tomato, and breaded and fried

96/5118 - Jerkvikeg - P. lungo il fiordo

59/4813 - 117 Svolvaer 32/4845 - Ferry Melbu/Fiskebol l - 10 min - 247 nok - 8 m Usually at the ticket office we declared our vehicle: 7 m, we found the finicky one who wanted to see the registration document and we paid the right price, from 7 to 8 m Stopped on the shore of a fjord, we fished, I caught two as well, cod and herring, tonight another fish feast.

177/5022 - Harstad - P. by the sea

What we saw: The oldest stone church Adolfkanonen the largest cannon ever built - 110 nok

244/5362 - Tromso - "La Parigi del Nord" - Camping Klassfisert - 170 nok

Nice and fast road (90 per hour)

What we saw: Historic center - Tromsdalen kirke (Arctic Cathedral) - Domkirke Cathedral from 1861 On arriving in Tromso, for the first time we wore shorts, 28 degrees of muggy heat, in the river near the campground the kids were swimming, Norwegians of course.

167/ 5529 - 30 km prima di Mandalan - P. in riva al fiordo

Tromso

With bus no. 24 from the campground we went to the center, eschi is a nice little town but, comparing it to Paris seems excessive to me, we saw little, besides the center, the Domkirke was closed and in the Cathedral there was a funeral and you couldn't enter, back at the campground we had lunch and set off again, before 2 pm, the deadline for leaving the campground.

130/5945 - Straumsneset - P. Sami - 30 nok

Ferry Bredivik/Svensby Ferry Oberalen/Lyngseidet SUSPENDED This is yet another confirmation that Norway and its inhabitants are not interested in tourism, thinking of saving time and money, we had planned to take these two ferries, after a 24 km detour we found a sign informing us that the second ferry (Lyngseidet-Oberdalen) was temporarily suspended, wouldn't it have been better to put this sign at the beginning of the detour??? it would have saved us 48 km. We get back on the wide and fast road alternating in stretches with bumps and dips

28/65815 - 123 Alta - P. at the museum

What to see: Hjemmeluft rock carvings 150 nok -

Straumsneset

We are in a parking area guarded by a Sami who asked us for 30 nok, there are no services, but the place is beautiful if it weren't for the mosquitoes and little flies Also today was a day characterized by a mishap at a gas station, I don't know whether due to clumsy or intentional calculations, they had charged us for 10 liters more of diesel, after various discussions without understanding each other, here they don't speak any languages other than Norwegian, they refunded us the difference. The friends from Ivrea move to the seashore where they can fish. It rained all day, we hope it will be better tomorrow at North Cape. Tonight it was hot, the usual down jacket was too much

122/6067 - 126 NORDKAPP - P. 280 nok

Tunnel Km. 6.8 491 nok The rates are: up to 6 m 140 nok Over 6 m 445 nok Per person 23 nok

A beautiful very steep road takes us to Nordkapp, our goal, unfortunately you have to pay a lot for the tunnels, over 6 m is a real rip-off. During the journey we were stopped by a herd of reindeer blocking the road, calmly they let themselves be photographed by us on one side and by others in the opposite direction, then calmly they moved and we were able to resume our journey. Arriving at the Nordkapp parking area another toll to pay 140 nok per person, it doesn't matter if the camper is small or large, you pay per person and it is valid for two days, another surprise, there are no water loading and unloading services, only parking, so before going up take care of it.

Another tip I can give you: buy the postcards in Konningsvag, they are the same but cost less, then send them from the Nordkapp post office Eventful evening, the parking area that when we arrived, before lunch, was half empty, filled up with a hundred and more campers, the bus parking area is packed with 50 or 60 vehicles, all waiting for one, midnight standard time, during the day it clouded over and then rained, but this evening is beautiful, a few clouds in the background create a magnificent scenario, we have already seen the midnight sun in the previous stops, but this one is more suggestive, perhaps because seen from above, perhaps because seen with thousands of people, all waiting for this more than natural event, but, always exciting.

Everyone in bed at 2, a terrible and very strong wind picks up, it seemed like the camper would fly away, moving with the campers to go down to sheltered places, would have been reckless, the steep road without guardrails became a danger; we stayed waiting for everything to calm down, around six everything was calm again and many campers left the square, at 9 we followed them, even though we had paid for two days.

274/6373 - Norway-Finland Border

Tunnel - 491 nok

32/6099 - 125 Konningsvag - P. at the port

After unloading and loading water at the Shell station, the first one entering Konningsvag, stocking up on food at a supermarket, we saw the friends from Ivrea again, who had stopped to fish in this town, happy because they had filled their fridges with fish.

FINLAND

Diesel per liter € 0.88 - 0.80

After the steep but very beautiful road of Nordkapp, you return to the E6 which becomes the 92, narrow with an undulating surface, it gets worse after the border, we hope for the best tomorrow

Continues in "North Cape 2004" Part Three