Lake Garda and the Veneto Hills

Using Verona as a starting point, we decided to give ourselves a look at two different aspects of the Veneto region. With two days available, we decided to head first west (Lake Garda), then east (the Brenta valley in the province of Vicenza). To get to Garda from Verona we follow the Adige as far as Affi, then head for San Zeno and descend to Torri, so as to have a wide view of the middle-upper part of the lake. Tourist cars (German): few as far as Torri, then gradually increasing as you get closer to the lake. Torri is a pretty little town with a nice lakefront and an interesting Scaliger Castle; behind the castle a lemon house has been created. From Torri you can choose to stay on the lake, perhaps taking the ferry to tour it all, or climb up to San Zeno and then onto Monte Baldo and dominate the lake from above.

South of Torri, Punta San Vigilio juts out into the middle of the lake and divides the wider, flatter part from the narrower, more mountainous part of Garda. Unfortunately the point is 100% privatised, but given the way our country is going, perhaps it's the only way to safeguard places of interest and stop our friends in the town halls, provinces, regions and — last but not least — governments from having fun enriching themselves at the expense of Italy's historic and environmental heritage in exchange for a bit of cash under the table. In fairness to the owners of San Vigilio, it must be said that the place is very well kept and extremely accessible to everyone, even just for a simple stroll.

It's hard in Italy to find such enlightened private owners!!! The second day we head for the Brenta and stop at Marostica, famous for the living chess game and for its hills full of vineyards! The centre is very small but it's worth going to the upper castle to enjoy the wide view over the Vicenza area. Avoid going up there at lunchtime. Since the top of the hill is privatised (yes, again...) and there's a restaurant, there's a real risk of being stuck in the car for even twenty minutes. After surviving the unforeseen traffic jam we went to relax by the Brenta, in view of the historic Bassano bridge. The day ended by the river and in the countless little bars of the town beneath Monte Grappa.