Iceland: soul of ice and heart of fire

After a hellish week, during which temperatures in our city exceeded 43 degrees, we are setting off on this trip, long desired, in which the last of our worries, we believe, will be the heat. We are in fact going to Iceland, a country on the edge of the Arctic Circle, extending just over 100,000 square kilometers (about a third of Italy), which with around 300,000 inhabitants turns out, by density, to be one of the least populated in Europe. On the other hand, it should offer a very high rate of natural beauties, being one of the places with the most pronounced volcanic and geothermal activity in the world. Two minutes after two in the afternoon we set off from home and a quarter of an hour later we get onto the A14 highway at Faenza … a highway that today carries rather heavy traffic, so much so that, with some apprehension, we even face a few slowdowns.

After about an hour, however, we arrive without problems at parking lot P4 of Marconi Airport, where we leave our car in storage, then with the shuttle we reach the departures area and after a short line we check our bags directly through to Keflavík airport, in Iceland, while we will have a stopover in Düsseldorf, in Germany. We go through the security checks and then settle in to wait for boarding at gate 11 … so, a little later, we pass through the gate and set foot on the Dash8-Q400 propeller aircraft of the Air Berlin company, which, identified as flight AB 8687, lifts off at 5:50 p.m., immediately banking north.

We fly over the Po Valley and bid farewell to the Italian heatwave, venturing onto a sea of clouds that covers the entire Alpine arc … Clouds that accompany us for the whole journey, so much so that we practically see land again only when we land, at 7:34 p.m., at Düsseldorf airport. As soon as we disembark we follow a well-signposted route and in a short time we find ourselves waiting for the next flight at gate B53. The times drag on a bit longer than expected, but at 10:07 p.m. the Air Berlin Airbus A320 (flight AB 3928) taxis on the German runway and immediately turns its nose toward Iceland. Meanwhile night has fallen, but first of all I set the clock back two hours to the arrival time zone, then, as time passes, the darkness doesn't advance; on the contrary, the sky brightens again, and already this is an incredible aspect of the land we are heading toward.

In this way we land, happily, at Keflavík airport at 11:07 p.m. local time, when we are once again close to sunset, and there it takes us a while to collect our bags, which fortunately all arrive. Then we go out well bundled up, into the coolness of the short northern night, and start looking for the shuttle of the B & B Keflairport, which should take us to Mycar, the car rental where we are to pick up the booked car, but we can't find it, so we decide to take a taxi, which shortly afterward drops us at our destination, right as midnight strikes and it is …

At Mycar they give us a brand-new white Toyota Rav 4 4x4 (it has only 65 kilometers on it), license plate MN R92, and with that we immediately set off toward the town of Grindavík, about twenty kilometers away. With the help of the navigator we thus find Anita's Guest House, where they were aware of our late arrival and were waiting for us, and where we will spend the first two (short) nights of the trip … In this way, shortly after one, we can finally grant ourselves a few hours of sleep. The rest, however, is brief because shortly after 7:00 a.m. the alarm goes off to officially kick off the visit to Iceland.

We have our self-managed breakfast and then proceed to follow road number 425, which runs along the southern coast of the Reykjanes peninsula, to turn left, after a handful of kilometers, along a short dirt road that takes us to the geothermal area of Gunnuhver, while thankfully a beautiful sun is shining. The Gunnuhver area is one of the most active in the country and owes its name to the alleged witch Gunna, who in the 18th century was lured by a spell to the place and made to plunge into the mud and boiling water. In fact, it feels like arriving at the gates of hell and the spectacle is superlative along the path that leads to the main crater, with large fumaroles and the ground all around colored with shades of white, yellow and red.

Some walkways venture into the area and offer truly exciting views, over a sky more clear than ever … and if the day is to be judged by the morning, I am truly inclined to believe that this trip will be unforgettable! Having explored the Gunnuhver area we get back on the road, but immediately make another detour, following the cart track that leads to the Reykjanesviti lighthouse, the oldest in Iceland, dating back to 1878, which dominates a beautiful stretch of coast characterized by intriguing cliffs.

Once back on the asphalt we continue for a handful of kilometers along road 425 until we reach the Midlina site, where an enormous crack in the ground is nothing other than the meeting point between the European and North American tectonic plates … the place, however, is anything but trivial; in fact the little canyon is crossed by the so-called "Bridge between two continents," and thinking about what forces of nature lie behind it literally gives you chills … Having successfully completed this experience too, we set the navigator directly for Reykjavík, capital of the incredible country we are about to explore, which with its 120,000 inhabitants houses more than a third of the entire population of the state. We stop to do some much-needed shopping at a discount store and around noon we arrive at the parking lot adjacent to the Old Harbor of Reykjavík.

So we take a short walk on the pier, flanked by historic buildings skillfully restored, and then we have lunch with our sandwiches, while the sun continues to shine proudly over our heads. Duly refreshed, we then head toward the Harpa: an astounding and very modern construction clad in convex glass, inaugurated in 2011, which mirrors itself in the waters of the facing harbor and contains the capital's concert hall. From there we then venture into the small old town of Reykjavík, where the building of the Alþingi, that is, the Icelandic parliament, is located, and a short distance away, on the shores of Lake Tjörnin, the Raðhús, a modern building that houses the city hall.

Strolling through the central streets, flanked by some characteristic wooden buildings, we return to the car and with it we move on to see, a few blocks away, also the Hallgrimskirkja, a large and modern church, today particularly striking, with its candid white standing out against the intense blue of the sky, built in the middle years of the last century on a design by the architect Guðjón Samúelsson, who did not live long enough to see it completed, in 1983. Having thus completed the visit to the capital, around 3:00 in the afternoon, we head south along road number 42, which crosses the Reykjanes peninsula and passes by the interesting Lake Kleifarvatn, surrounded by stern volcanic landscapes. In this way we arrive at the geothermal area of Krýsuvík, in which the sulfurous and bubbling springs of Seltún stand out, while the sky rapidly becomes cloudy.

From a convenient parking lot, some wooden walkways depart that lead you to walk among muddy pits and various fumaroles, because the temperature in the immediate subsoil reaches two hundred degrees and the water boils when it emerges from the ground. A ground that, thanks to the presence of various minerals, takes on fanciful iridescent reflections, giving life to a landscape with a Dantean appearance. With the smell of sulfur still in our nostrils, we then move just one kilometer to the volcanic pond of Grænavatn, with unusually greenish-blue waters, due to the presence of minerals and thermophilic algae. A little further on, road 42 intersects 427, which runs along the southern edge of the Reykjanes peninsula. From here an impervious dirt road leads to the spectacular stretch of coast of Krýsuvíkurberg, where imposing black cliffs rise before the impetuous waves of the Atlantic Ocean.

We take a few dutiful photos, unfortunately not helped by the presence of the sun, and then regain the asphalt road, which we follow to Grindavík, practically closing the loop of this first stage … but not the stage itself, because still missing, perhaps, is the best part. A handful of kilometers from here is in fact the Bláa Lónið, the very famous Icelandic Blue Lagoon, which is, tourist-wise, a bit the symbol of the country. It is a little lagoon, magnificently set in a black lava field, formed by geothermal water, blue and milky, coming from the nearby Svartsengi plant, in which one can bathe, given the 38-degree temperature, idling away the whole time. The place, naturally, is always crowded, but we have a reservation for 6:00 p.m.

and we show up a little early, while the weather doesn't cooperate and it even starts to drizzle … We don't care much about it, though, and we immediately run into the water to enjoy a couple of beautiful, relaxing hours. But time flies in the Blue Lagoon and before long we have to return to Anita's Guest House to conclude the first magnificent Icelandic day with a Spartan dinner, eaten in the cozy kitchen of the guesthouse.

We set off, with all our luggage with us, from Anita's Guest House for the first real traveling stage of the trip, a stage that is also quite demanding. We start out east across the Reykjanes peninsula with a few patches of clear sky overhead, but we head toward big dark clouds and before long it starts to rain. We thus arrive on the Hringvegur, road number 1, which circles the whole island, and we travel a short stretch of it eastward, then take the inland route on road number 35. After another handful of kilometers we finally arrive at the parking lot facing the ancient volcanic crater of Kerið, today's first point of interest, while it continues to rain with a certain persistence.

So we put on our rain ponchos for the first time and, duly equipped, we pay the entrance fee (a rare thing in Iceland) and head toward the top of the Kerið crater, which, formed about 6,500 years ago, has a width varying from 170 to 270 meters and a depth of 55, with a blue little lake inside. Its walls are then formed of reddish volcanic rock, carpeted with very green vegetation … A fine overall picture, despite the gray day. We walk the entire circuit of the crater's rim, savoring it from the most varied angles, and then return to the car to resume the itinerary. We continue on road number 35 … and after 35 kilometers we arrive at Faxafoss waterfall, a seven-meter drop, eighty wide, formed by the Tungufljót river … Nothing special, but we give it a look since it didn't cost us any extra driving to reach it. The only positive note is the rain, which for the moment has stopped falling.

Afterward we take a short dirt road as a shortcut, which brings us back onto road number 35 a few kilometers from the parking lot at the large and famous Gullfoss waterfall. The weather isn't exactly exceptional, but in any case we can admire the spectacle of the thunderous waters of the Hvitá river, which plunge with a double drop of 32 meters into a narrow canyon, forming Gullfoss waterfall (the golden waterfall), perhaps the most famous in Iceland. The amount of water vapor released by the tumultuous rapids is truly impressive … and to think that in the early twentieth century a company intended to buy the waterfall to build a dam and a hydroelectric plant there, but then gave up, thanks also to the efforts of a courageous local farmer, who opposed the desecration, even threatening to throw herself into the waters of Gullfoss.

After the walk along the path that winds, with superb views, along the edge of the waterfall, we return to the car and immediately set off again, because we are already behind schedule. In this way we arrive at noon in the town of Geysir with the intention of visiting its well-known geothermal area. Given the time, we first have lunch and then devote ourselves to exploring the area, starting with some boiling mud pools and then arriving in front of Strokkur, the most active of Iceland's geysers, surrounded by many tourists awaiting its eruption … and it certainly doesn't keep us waiting, because every 5/10 minutes it shoots its powerful jet of water up to a height of thirty meters … astonishing! Right next to it, on the other hand, is Geysir, the father of all geysers, from which the common name also derives.

It remained active for about eight hundred years, raising columns of water over a hundred meters high, but since 1916, unfortunately, it awakens only occasionally. Further on, on the other hand, some hot springs stand out, among them the beautiful one of Blesi, formed by two pools: one of a milky blue color and the other very transparent with crystalline reflections … It is from here, I believe, that you savor the best view of the area if you have the patience to wait against the backdrop of the two pools for an eruption of Strokkur.

Enriched also by this experience we return to attack the ribbon of asphalt, but only for a handful of kilometers, until, following a detour to the right, we set out in search of the path that leads to the interesting Bruarfoss waterfall … We find it, but it passes inside a private property with some signs urging people to walk it, so we give up and resume our program toward the next destination. In this way, after less than an hour, we arrive in the area of Þingvellir National Park, which is the most important historical site in all of Iceland, as well as a place immersed in the astonishing nature of this land located at the edge of the world.

Þingvellir is located between the European and North American tectonic plates, so the whole area is crossed by deep cracks and fissures in the ground, and it is precisely from the suggestive cracks full of clear water of Flosagjá and Nikulásargjá that we begin our exploration of the park, then moving on, nearby, to the characteristic Þingvallakirkja, one of the first Icelandic churches, dating back to the 11th century, although the current structure is of nineteenth-century workmanship. By car we then move to another area of Þingvellir where, with a short walk, we go to see the beautiful Öxarárfoss waterfall, formed by the waters of the Öxará river, which plunge into the tectonic fault with a drop of about twenty meters. We are in fact already inside the great fissure of Almannagjá, which characterizes much of the place.

The most spectacular area of the fault, however, is accessed from another part of the park, toward which we are now heading. A little later, then, while it starts raining again, we descend between two wings of rock inside the Almannagjá and there we walk to the historic cliff of Lögberg (the rock of law), at whose base the Alþingi, the first democratic parliament of northern Europe, gathered starting in 930 AD. Here we notice the exact point where the assembly was held annually, marked with the Icelandic flag. Having also finished the demanding visit to Þingvellir, we promptly get back on the road, since there are still 170 kilometers to cover to reach the end of the stage. We reach the sea and road number 1 practically in the northern outskirts of Reykjavík, and from there we go north along the coast.

We cross the deep Hvalfjörður by means of an undersea tunnel (toll), and continue on the Hringvegur for a few dozen kilometers, until we turn left onto road number 54, which heads toward the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Now within sight of the finish line, however, we make another small detour, following the short dirt road that leads to the base of Gerðuberg Cliffs, an astounding sequence of basalt columns, between 7 and 14 meters high. Having taken the dutiful photos, we resume grinding out kilometers and shortly before 8:00 p.m. we arrive in the remote locality of Staðarstaður at the Traðir Guesthouse, which will host us for the night.

We take the suitcases to the room, inquire about dinner, and then, while under the clouds in the distance we glimpse the shape of Snæfellsjökull, the glacier above the great volcano that dominates this region, we dash off again by car to the nearby beach of Ytri-Tunga, where it seems you can see seals … and indeed there are several specimens, which we stop for a while to observe in reverent silence. Having thus concluded the day with the icing on the cake, we return to the guesthouse to have dinner, then head to the room, observing the splendid colors of the sky by now close to sunset … a sky that we hope will be a little more merciful tomorrow.

The sky is grey on this morning of a decidedly un-scorching Ferragosto too … but at least it isn't raining. We set off a little late, because breakfast couldn't be eaten before 8:00, and head west along the southern coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, surrounded by intriguing scenery, among which stands out the Bjarnarfoss waterfall, an eighty-metre drop clearly visible from the roadway. Near the waterfall we then turn left onto road number 574, which makes the complete circuit of the peninsula, and after a few kilometres we reach the car park from which the walk to Rauðfeldsgjá begins, a very narrow gorge that vanishes phantom-like into the mountain. Amid very green and singular scenery we reach the entrance of the rocky ravine. We walk a very short stretch of it, savouring its peculiarities, and then retrace our steps.

Afterwards we arrive at the village of Anarstapi, where there is a small monument dedicated to Jules Verne, the famous writer considered among the fathers of science fiction, who ideally set off his "Journey to the Centre of the Earth" from right here. Then we drive to the small harbour, characterised all around by beautiful basalt formations, and immediately after, on foot, along the cliffs south of the village where there is a scenic rock arch called Gatklettur. Here, among other things, we also have the chance to observe the aggressiveness of the Arctic terns, which attack without hesitation anyone who tries to encroach on their territory.

Having left Anarstapi we then move a few kilometres westward to the spectacular stretch of coast at Lóndrangar, characterised by high cliffs populated by a rich birdlife and by two enormous rock pinnacles (61 and 75 metres high) that popular tradition identifies as a temple of the elves. Having devoted the right amount of time to this place too, we then follow the signs that lead us to the car park near Djúpalónssandur beach, while the sun finally comes back to visit us, immediately lighting up all the colours of nature. Here we observe some suggestive rock formations, among which a large arch, but above all the desolate expanse of black sand, still strewn with the debris of the English fishing boat Eding, which was shipwrecked there in 1948.

From the sea opposite some sea stacks emerge and at the entrance to the beach you can still see today the "four lifting stones", by means of which, in past centuries, the strength of aspiring sailors was tested: the smallest is called Amloði (incapable) and weighs 23 kilos, then there is Hálfdrættingur (weak), which weighs 54 kilos, the Hálfsterkur (moderately strong), which weighs 100 kilos, and the largest Fullsterker (very strong), with its 154 kilos … and to be considered able you had to lift at least the second one. Satisfied with events we take to the road again and, crossing vast volcanic landscapes, we reach the foot of Saxhöll, a small cone of volcanic scoria that you can climb with a short hike.

From up there the view over the enormous lava expanses of Neshraun is fascinating, even if mutilated by the absence of the great Snæfells volcano, which stays constantly hidden beneath the clouds. A little later, turning onto secondary road number 579, we also conquer the extreme western tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, where there is the beautiful golden beach of Skarðsvík and further on, at the end of a rough dirt track, the impressive dark cliffs of Svötuloft, characterised by an enormous rock arch and overlooked by a showy orange lighthouse, all while the shadow regains the upper hand over the sun. Having regained the main asphalt ribbon we begin to go back up the peninsula on its northern side and at almost 14:00 we stop to have lunch, with our sandwiches, in the rest area facing the famous Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall.

Afterwards we tackle the short walk that winds around the waterfall, to savour all its best-known views, against the backdrop of the photogenic and pyramidal peak of Kirkjufell, a majestic mountain that stands guard over the Grundarfjörður, then we set off to undertake the long transfer at the end of the day. In order not to make it too late we skip the visit to the curious Shark Museum of Bjarnarhöfn, which is nearby, because having chosen not to take the ferry that crosses the vast Breiðafjörður we will have to cover almost 300 kilometres of road, largely dirt, to reach our destination. In this way we save a tidy sum, but above all we have the chance to enjoy beautiful panoramic views over the incredible series of fjords that follow one another along road number 60.

Views made precious by the presence of the sun and the blue sky, a little foretaste, we believe, of the western fjords, which we will explore tomorrow. Shortly before 20:00 we finally arrive in the tiny village of Birkimelur, at the Bjarkarholt Guesthouse, where we will spend the night. We have dinner in the kitchen of the facility and then retire to our room to rest, putting an end to an intense but beautiful day.

We set off early from the guesthouse with the sky, above our heads, showing broad and auspicious patches of clear weather. We follow the coastline westward on road number 62, until the latter ventures onto a small mountain pass, which brings us to look out from above over the Patreksfjörður, the first western fjord of the series, literally invaded by a sea of low clouds, which create an extraordinary effect … clouds that, however, rapidly dissolve as we descend in altitude. We thus set off along the southern shore of the fjord on road 612 and after very few kilometres we encounter, stranded on the foreshore, the rusty wreck of the fishing boat Garðar, a steam vessel built over a hundred years ago and abandoned here in 1991, which, combined with the dissolving clouds, gives the place a spectral appearance.

After another four kilometres we then turn inland onto the dirt road 614, which crosses the mountains and reaches the beach of Rauðasandur. The arrival from above onto the vast sandy expanse, descending steep and narrow hairpin bends, is unforgettable: the immense stretch of red sand blends masterfully with the blue of the ocean in a sort of embrace between the elements, because the sea penetrates the land forming a lagoon and strips of land push out to sea giving rise to almost unreal shades of colour. Enchanted by the spectacle we descend to the left of the inlet, where there is a spartan campsite, and there we set off along the beach to reach the shores of the ocean, in the magical silence of this place, violated only by the lapping of the waves. Enraptured we turn back along the same way and cross the mountains again, then continue on the shore of the Patreksfjörður westward.

This road too becomes dirt and amid grandiose scenery we reach the white beach of Breiðdvík, in whose solitude stands out a characteristic little church, then we continue to the westernmost point of Europe (if you exclude the Azores), where the astounding Latrabjarg cliffs are found, whose heights vary from 60 to 440 metres! From the car park near the lighthouse we walk a good stretch of the sea cliffs, which have an impressive verticality and offer truly breathtaking views. The crevices and ledges of the cliffs are then inhabited by many birds, but unfortunately we can't manage to spot a single puffin, the likeable bird that is something of a symbol of the Icelandic coasts.

At this point in the day we inevitably retrace our steps along the whole Patreksfjörður, which we then go back up on the other shore as far as the town of the same name, where, besides shopping and refuelling, we also eat our lunch. When hostilities resume with the impervious routes of these lands we cross a pass and look out over the Talknafjörður strait, then we cross another one and glide down, by now lost in a labyrinth of seas and mountains, onto the town of Bíldudalur, from where we start to follow the rough road 619, which runs along the southern shore of the vast Arnarfjörður, according to the guide, perhaps the most beautiful fjord in the region.

Amid countless ups and downs, high mountains and lush valleys, the white road 619 skirts the Arnarfjörður for over twenty kilometres, offering at times thrilling views, and arrives at the remote village of Selárdalur, where there are some curious buildings, the work of the local artist Samúel Jónsson, who spent the last years of his life here. Having then retraced this stretch of road too back to Bíldudalur we continue to follow the main road, which becomes dirt and rises vertiginously and then descends, in the infinite chaos of water and rock, and rises again, among peaks in which some trace of snow still stands out … Finally we descend sheer onto the Borgarfjörður, at the bottom of which is the wonderful Dynjandi waterfall.

Dynjandi in the Icelandic language means thundering, like the impetus with which the water descends on the mountainside creating a spectacular series of waterfalls, among which the magnificent main drop, which opens out like a fan with a width varying from thirty to sixty metres. On foot we climb along a steep path, up to the base of the great waterfall, fully enjoying the place, even if with the sun a bit absent. Having finished exploring the Dynjandi waterfall it is 18:30 and we still have to cover about a hundred kilometres to reach the end of the stage, almost half of which on dirt. We follow the northern shore of the Borgarfjörður and then tackle a bold pass that brings us to Dýrafjörður, in the village of Þingeyri, where we find asphalt again.

From there, again through the mountains, we look out over the Önundarfjörður, then a long tunnel brings us to the town of Ísafjörður, located on a branch of the Ísafjarðardjúp, the vastest of the western fjords. From Ísafjörður another handful of kilometres brings us to the village of Súðavík at the Swanfjord Ghuesthouse where we will stay. In this way another positive day comes to an end, and it concludes with a little curiosity. Given our current geographical position complete darkness just doesn't arrive, in fact the sky at midnight is still clear to the north-west and this despite it already being late August … incredible!

Today sees the start of the longest stage of the trip. In fact over six hundred kilometres await us, mostly just a transfer, from the western fjords to the north-central region of Iceland. We set off from Súðavíik shortly after 8:00 and first of all we stop by the nearby Arctic Fox Centre, established to study and protect what is, in practice, the only native land mammal of Iceland. The centre is still closed, but in the adjacent enclosure we can notice the presence of at least two cubs. Immediately afterwards we begin to travel along road number 6, which follows south-east all the endless ramifications of the Ísafjarðardjúp, unfortunately in the absence of a nice sun, but at least it isn't raining.

At a certain point we encounter a tourist sign indicating the possible presence of seals in the stretch of sea opposite, so we stop … and indeed there they are, even numerous, though rather far from the shore. We take a few photos, savouring the welcome unplanned experience, and then continue. After over 150 kilometres from the start we leave the great fjord, but to leave the region and regain the number 1 there are at least as many more. Shortly after midday here we finally are on the Hringvegur, but we travel only about thirty kilometres of it clockwise, then we turn left towards the Vatnsnes peninsula, famous for its seal colonies. We stop to have lunch in the town of Hvammstangi under a beautiful sun and then, confirming the extreme variability of the weather in these lands, we set off to discover the peninsula again under a leaden sky.

We follow the dirt road 711, which runs along the coast, and shortly after we arrive at a seal observation point, well signposted. We park our vehicle and set off towards the beach, pressed by an icy wind blowing from the north. Once on the shore, however, we are a little disappointed because we glimpse, in the distance, only a single specimen. We then retrace our steps and resume the tour of the peninsula until we reach the car park near the gigantic sea stack of Hvitserkur. Here we leave the car and on foot descend to the beach to observe up close this basalt formation, which rises for 15 metres a few steps from the foreshore.

According to local tradition it would be a troll, surprised by the sun's rays and here petrified for eternity, but in reality it looks more like an enormous dragon drinking in the sea … In short, a fine curtain made of nature and mythology, only that the sea stack tends towards black and the sky towards grey, so the scene doesn't stand out as it would deserve. In the nearby bay you should then see the seals, but there is no trace of them … so we leave the famous seal peninsula with only one creature to our credit. And luckily we were able to enjoy two other previous experiences outside Vatnsnes.

Having regained the number 1 we travel it swiftly eastward, then we leave it in the village of Varmahlið to go north along the 75, while the sun also begins to shine again, which allows us to make a good visit of the Glaumbær site, where a traditional turf farm dating back to the 18th century has been well restored. On the same site there are two beautiful wooden houses from the following century and near the neighbouring little church a small monument commemorating Snorri Þorfinnsson, considered the first European to be born, in 1004, on the North American continent, who then spent a good part of his life at Glaumbær. By now in the late afternoon we tackle road number 76, which ventures along the coast of the great Tröllaskagi peninsula, shrouded in clouds. We thus arrive in the remote town of Siglufjörður under a light drizzle that is not at all encouraging.

We nonetheless take a few photos of the old buildings that house the Herring Museum, because Siglufjörður was the capital of the fishing of this fish in the first half of the last century, when it counted over ten thousand inhabitants … then the herring disappeared from the local waters and the economy of the place collapsed drastically. A little downcast because of the weather conditions, which it seems will be the same tomorrow during our planned whale watching excursion, we then head towards the end of the stage, and to put the right emphasis on the situation, along one of the two tunnels connecting Sigurfjörður to Ölafsfjörður (where we will stay overnight) we clearly also get caught by a speed camera, whose fruits we will see afterwards.

We finally arrive at the Gistihus Joa, the facility where we will be guests tonight, and having taken our luggage to the room we go to dinner in a nearby restaurant, where we eat an honest pizza, then retire to our room, while outside the rain continues to fall inexorably.

It's raining … it's pouring in Ölafsfjörður! Nevertheless we get ready for the whale watching excursion, booked from home, aware of the fact that it will probably be cancelled. We have breakfast in a hurry, load the suitcases in the car and shortly after 8:30 we are already in the nearby town of Dalvík, at Artic Sea Tours. We enter the office and ask for information, only to be told, to our great surprise, that everything is confirmed and that in a little while we will be given the thermal suits with which to face the excursion. Having put on everything necessary and properly equipped, at the appointed time, we go out under the pouring rain and head towards the port of Dalvík, where the vessel that will accompany us on our adventure is moored: a fishing boat adapted for tourist use, with no covered seats.

We, however, manage to hole up at the bow in a fairly sheltered corner and, a little perplexed, in those conditions, we set out on the Eyjafjörður immediately beginning to pitch among the waves. After about half an hour of navigation we arrive in front of the islet of Hrisey, where the sea is calmer and it also stops raining, so the boat begins to proceed slowly, while the crew are searching for a sign of the presence of whales … Silence pervades the environment in trepidant anticipation … then a shout sets off the first thrilling sighting … the spout … the back … and then the unmistakable tail … beautiful! … Silence again.

And then another sighting … and another still … and even a fourth, very close, with the great cetacean emerging just a few metres from the side of the boat! After also having a little experience with the fishing rod, including the capture of a large cod (which escaped at the last moment, however), we tackle the return journey. The boat starts pitching again and it also starts raining heavily again, so we arrive in the port of Dalvík wet and chilled, but fully satisfied with the experience lived. We tidy ourselves up a bit in the premises of Artic Sea Tours and then get in the car to warm up and take the road in the direction of the city of Akureyri, located at the bottom of the Eyjafjörður, where we arrive, without rain, well past midday.

We do some shopping and afterwards have our classic lunch, while some timid rays of sun peep out from a patch of blue sky, then we resume the itinerary. We follow the Hringvegur eastward, cross a lost pass among the clouds and then turn right onto road 842 which, rather rough, ventures inland. In the last stretch the route takes the name F26 (therefore passable only with 4x4 vehicles) and arrives at the car park near the Aldeyjarfoss waterfall. On foot we go to see this splendid waterfall, created by a twenty-metre drop of the Skjálfandafljót river in an amphitheatre of basalt columns. The watercourse then continues its course within a large and scenic bend. Truly a spectacle, a shame only about the greyness and the biting cold, which prevent us from lingering too long in the place.

Having returned along the same dirt route to road number 1 we go to visit the famous Goðafoss waterfall (the waterfall of the gods) as well, formed by the same unpronounceable river as Aldeyjarfoss. The drop is only 12 metres, but its breadth makes it impetuous and very beautiful, among other things the place is also inextricably linked to Icelandic history because it is said that around the year 1000, when its people chose Christianity as their religion, the then lawspeaker of the Alþingi (one Þorgeirr) threw the effigies of the Nordic gods into it, in practice giving it its name. We see the waterfall from both sides, walking for a long time in search of the best angles, which perhaps are savoured more from the western bank, then we head towards the end of the stage.

We travel back along the whole stretch of number 1 that takes us back into the city of Akureyri, the country's second urban agglomeration with its good 18,000 inhabitants, and once past the tiny centre, where some characteristic buildings stand out, besides the Akureyrarkirkja, a church by the same architect as the one in Reykjavík, we approach the Bekkugata 33 Guesthouse, which will host us for the night. In this way we conclude a day of rotten weather, but with a nonetheless positive outcome.

The sky is still grey, but the forecast says it will improve. We set off early from Akureyri and go along road number 1 eastward. In this way we pass again in front of the Goðafoss waterfall, but the weather conditions are very similar to yesterday's and we continue. By mid-morning we thus arrive in view of lake Mývatn, fourth in size in Iceland, surrounded however by the country's most impressive volcanic phenomena. First of all we stop on its southern shores, in the area called Skútustaðagigar, where ancient phenomena of gas explosions, during yet another cataclysm manifested in the area, gave rise to the so-called pseudocraters, small cones of volcanic scoria currently covered by a thick grassy mantle. We tackle a pleasant walk on the shore of lake Mývatn, surrounded by these geological oddities and then continue along its southern coast.

In this way we reach the small promontory of Höfði, where another short hike, through a wooded forest, leads us to discover some curious klasar (lava pillars), which dot the shoreline emerging from the waters of the lake. Another handful of kilometres and we also conquer the car park near the immense lava field of Dimmuborgir, while the sun prepares to win its battle with the clouds. The surprising formations of Dimmuborgir (literally dark fortress) were formed about two thousand years ago and some hiking trails allow you to go and discover them. We follow the intermediate route, 2,300 metres long, which leads us to see first the great arch of Gatklettur, then the astounding one of Kirkjan, with the incredible appearance of the entrance portal of a Gothic church. At Dimmuborgir we have lunch while a splendid blue sky finally opens up above our heads.

Now the conditions are perfect for climbing on foot up the nearby crater of Hverfell, whose almost perfect shape strongly characterises the whole area. It is a crater of black tephrite, formed about 2,700 years ago during an apocalyptic eruption, with a diameter of 1,040 metres and a depth of 140. The climb costs a bit of effort, but it is absolutely worth it: from up there the panorama is extraordinary, with views ranging over the harsh surrounding landscape and over the crater itself, only the cold, truly biting, takes away a little pleasure from this grandiose experience. Having come down from Hverfell we continue briefly along the coastal road of the Mývatn and then take on the right the dirt track that leads us in front of the impressive Grjótagiá fissure.

Here the bare rock has been literally split in two by the forces of nature and a fracture has been created whose edges rise upwards in the shape of an inverted V. Inside the crevice some suggestive caves have then formed, full of steaming thermal water, in which bathing is however forbidden. The place, truly singular, was also chosen for filming some scenes of the TV series "Game of Thrones". From Grjótagiá we regain road number 1, which leaves lake Mývatn eastward and right at the junction we come across the geothermal area of Bjarnarflag, very active and exploited since the sixties to produce geothermal energy. The result of this activity is a sparkling turquoise pond, on whose shores a large fumarole puffs. Not everything, then, is the work of mother nature, but the scenery is nonetheless truly intriguing.

Continuing on the Hringvegur for a short stretch we then arrive at the best-known geothermal area of the region: that of Hverir. The colours of this solfatara are astounding, immersed in a harsh landscape with a Martian appearance, with its dominant ochre tone, it is dotted with white fumaroles, pools of grey boiling mud, yellow sulphurous flows and a thousand other shades, all enhanced by the blue of a sky dotted with clouds that look like so many cotton balls. After wandering for a while in the kaleidoscope of colours of Hverir we take to the road again to follow the signs that lead, in a handful of kilometres, to the volcanic area of Krafla, one of the most active in all of Iceland, which counts a good 29 eruptions, the last of which between the seventies and eighties of the last century.

First of all we encounter the enormous pipelines of a geothermal power plant, from which a white torrent also gushes, then we arrive in view of the crater of Viti (which in the Icelandic language means hell). We look out over the rim of this gloomy volcanic cone with a diameter of about three hundred metres, while the clouds already regain command of the skies. This does not prevent us from exploring the crater, which was formed during an eruption in 1724 and currently contains a blue little lake, responsible for yet another, astounding scenery of this land shaped by the primordial forces of nature. The far more primordial area of Krafla, however, is reached with a walk that keeps us busy for a couple of hours and that leads us to the crater and the solfatara of Leirhnjúkur.

The place is truly astonishing: here the earth's crust seems to be particularly thin and you walk among black lava flows, while here and there, from the openings of the ground, white exhalations escape … If the underworld exists it must not be very different from this place! With the walk through the steaming wastes of Leirhnjúkur today's visits practically come to an end, so we retrace our steps to lake Mývatn and go to the village of Reykjahlíð to the Hlíd Hostel, where they assign us the cottage that will host us for two nights. Having sorted our things for dinner we get a pizza, which we then eat in the kitchen of the hostel, and immediately after we go to spend the evening at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a small blue lagoon, imitating the more famous one where we were during the first day in Iceland.

This one, however, is accessed, in swimwear, from the outside and it is not exactly a pleasant sensation, given that the thermometer reads only 6 degrees … in the water (at 38 degrees) instead you are in seventh heaven and we spend two relaxing hours there, before returning to our cottage and concluding this intense but unforgettable day.

Today is the day of the planned excursion to Askja, a very desolate and immense caldera located in the heart of Iceland and reachable by means of some rough tracks, including rather demanding fords. For this reason we decided not to risk it and entrusted ourselves to a local tour operator. The alarm is set for 6:30, since an hour later we must be at the service area of Reykjahlíð at the meeting point, and when we get up the sky is grey, because it rained recently, but we trust in an improvement. At the appointed time we are at the appointment with our 4x4 mini-bus of the Fjallasýn agency and immediately get on board, then shortly after another four participants (also Italians) arrive and together we set off eastward on road number 1.

We follow the asphalt ribbon for about thirty kilometres, then turn right onto the dirt F88 and there we see the sign: Askja 102 … it's going to be long! We venture into the vast valley of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river, one of the longest rivers in Iceland, and immediately begin to tackle rough lava fields, then we arrive at a ford and at another one still and after over an hour of general jolting we reach the oasis of Herðubreiðarlindir, characterised by moss, low vegetation and a spring. There we stop for a while also observing the narrow refuge of an 18th-century outlaw and then set off again. A little later our driver makes a stop at Gljúfrasmiður, a narrow and low canyon within which the Jökulsá á Fjöllum passes right after having tackled a thundering leap, all, unfortunately, still seasoned with today's greyness.

From that exciting and solitary place, after another long stretch of track, at almost midday, we arrive at the Dreki refuge, in the immediate vicinity of the Drekagil gorge, by now at the gates of Askja. In the premises of the refuge we have lunch with our sandwiches, then the guide accompanies us to visit the Drekagil gorge, which literally means "canyon of the dragon", due to some formations reminiscent of this mythological animal. The rocky ravine extends only for a few hundred metres and ends with a beautiful waterfall, at whose base many very light pumice stones float. Having returned to the refuge we go back to our mini-bus to tackle the last eight kilometres of track, up to the Askja car park. In this way we pass through the enormous lava flow of 1961 (the last eruption in chronological order) and arrive at the terminus.

From there there are still about two and a half kilometres to walk to reach the Askja crater. It is, however, a fairly easy walk, thanks also to the temperature, less rigid than expected, and to the by now advanced season, which allows us to walk on earth and not on snow, as often happens. In the end we finally emerge onto the enormous crater, formed during the eruption of 1875 and extended for a good 11 square kilometres, which is currently occupied by the sapphire-blue waters of lake Öskjuvatn.

Right next to it, instead, is the smaller and more spectacular crater of Viti (the same name as the one at Krafla), with a diameter of about 150 metres, which contains milky thermal water at 25 degrees, bathing possible if you wish … the whole thing would truly be a marvel, if only the sky were blue and the clouds didn't cover the edges of the caldera … a shame! We nonetheless try to enjoy the place from every angle and also descend to the shores of lake Öskjuvatn, where a hot water spring gushes and where some daredevil even bathes, then we set off on the way back and our guide has us make a small detour, to see another crater, without water at the bottom, but with beautiful colours. Now the hundred kilometres of track have to be covered back and all in one go they are interminable, so it is a relief when, finally, we regain the asphalt ribbon.

We arrive at Reykjahlíð (with the sun!) shortly before 19:00 and immediately go to the same pizzeria as last night (Daddi's Pizza). This time we eat on the spot and before returning to our cottage we wander a bit along the roads that venture onto lake Mývatn trying to capture some images of the sun now close to the horizon line. In this way we head towards the end of a beautiful day, which with the right weather conditions could have been memorable.

We leave the cottage of Reykjahlíð northward along road number 87 to pass through the town of Húsavík, considered the capital of Icelandic whale watching. But we have already had this experience and we content ourselves with seeing the town centre, with the characteristic Húsavíkurkirkja, a wooden church dating back to the early twentieth century, as well as some typical buildings facing the harbour. We skip the whale museum, do some shopping and refuelling, then continue promptly along the coast, because another intense day awaits us. We round the cape of the Tjörnes peninsula and approach a vast flat area formed by the alluvial debris of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river, which here flows into the Arctic Ocean. It is the same river that is followed to go to Askja and that will also accompany us for almost all of today's visits.

We are in fact venturing into the majestic canyon of the Jökulsárgljúfur and into the former national park that bore the same name, established in 1973 and incorporated since 2008 within the boundaries of the larger Vatnajökull National Park. First of all we go to see the very strange canyon of Ásbyrgi, through which the river once passed, then moved further east. The perfectly vertical walls, over a hundred metres high, that surround it have a horseshoe shape and in the centre stands a solitary, imposing rock, called Eyjan. Legend has it that the place was created by a hoof of Sleipnir, the mythical winged steed of Odin, and that it became the refuge of the pagan gods, after their effigies had been thrown into the Goðafoss waterfall.

At the bottom of the canyon there is then a small lake, surrounded by a rare birch wood, which can grow here sheltered from the icy northern winds … The whole thing gives rise to interesting views, which we savour accompanied by the sun and a pleasant temperature. Having left the Ásbyrgi we take the dirt road 862, which runs south parallel to the great river. We travel it for about a dozen kilometres, up to the turning that leads onto the shores of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum, in the area called Vesturdalur. There is a car park from which some hiking trails depart and we immediately start following the one signposted as V-4, about five kilometres long, which winds along the river northward. In the first part of the route we walk among the impressive rocks of Hljóðaklettar, generated by a portentous eruption and shaped by the terrifying floods of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum.

Here, in the chaos of formations, some twisted structures formed by basaltic columns stand out, as well as the incredible Kirkjan, a cavern with a sloping roof that has the appearance of a gigantic church. Subsequently the path rises to the astounding cones of red volcanic scoria of Rauðhólar, from where the view over the entire area is superlative … then we return to the car park along an easier path, which passes far from the river, completing a walk that is at times thrilling. We have lunch in a small equipped area and immediately afterwards we also tackle the V-5 trail, which allows us to admire stupendous panoramas over the canyon where the Jökulsá á Fjöllum flows and arrives in front of two enormous rock pillars called Karl og Kerling (man and woman), which rise in a bend of the river, then we return to the starting point.

We leave the Vesturdalur area euphoric and resume the journey southward along road 862, until we reach the point where it becomes asphalted and where the vast car park near the famous Dettifoss waterfall is found. A short hike leads to seeing the most impressive waterfall in Europe by average flow rate (about 200 cubic metres per second). This enormous volume of foaming liquid plunges from a height of 44 metres, with a front of a hundred, into the canyon of the Jökulsárgljúfur and is a true marvel of nature, which we try to capture (as much as possible) from every angle.

We linger for a long time listening to the formidable roar of the waters and observing the clouds of vapour, which pierced by the sun's rays generate splendid rainbows, then we set off along the course of the river southward and also reach the nearby Selfoss waterfall, smaller in size of the drop (only about ten metres), but nonetheless spectacular for its horseshoe shape. Having regained the car we continue along road 862 until we reach the junction with number 1. There we turn left, pass in front of the turning for Askja, cross the Jökulsá á Fjöllum and turn left again onto the dirt 864, which flanks the opposite shore of the Jökulsárgljúfur. We travel this track for about thirty kilometres, up to the turning that leads to the Hafragilsfoss waterfall, which is located downstream of Dettifoss.

We observe it from above, with the spectacle of the whole canyon at our feet … another sublime view of this indelible day. Completely taken by events, however, we hadn't noticed that it is getting late. So we retrace our steps on the 864 and in any case we still make a small detour, towards the Dettifoss waterfall on this side, but it can only be glimpsed in the distance and we don't have time for another walk … nothing wrong, after all we have already seen it very well. And from here we set off promptly towards the end of the stage, with still more than a hundred kilometres to cover. Having regained the Hringvegur we go for a good stretch eastward, accompanied by intriguing panoramas, then we turn onto road number 85 following the signs for Vopnafjörður and the eastern fjords region.

Shortly before 20:00 we thus arrive near this remote town and take lodging at the Ásbrandsstadir Cottage, with some snow-capped mountains in front of us, another small but not negligible detail of a trip rich in splendid emotions.

We are woken by the sunlight penetrating through the windows, in the quiet of Vopnafjörður. We have breakfast and then leave our cottage following the road that goes east along the coast, a road that soon becomes dirt. After a few kilometres we make the first stop of the day to admire the beautiful Gljúfursárfoss waterfall, which plunges from a height of 45 metres into a small gorge located a very short distance from the shores of the ocean. A shame, however, that it is completely in the shade and against the light. A little further on we then see the curious rock called The Elephant, which rises just off the coast and which really resembles, in its appearance, an enormous pachyderm.

From there road 917 begins to climb vertiginously and crosses a spectacular mountain pass at over 600 metres in altitude, amid grandiose panoramas, and then descends sheer in the direction of the plain formed by the delta of the glacial rivers of Héraðssandur and continues its course inland, until it meets number 1 again. In a short time we thus arrive in the town of Egilsstaðdir, where we do some

We wake up with great delight in the ancestral peace of Mjóifjörður, even though, this morning, the clouds cover the mountain peaks all around. We retrace the entire route 953 and pass once again through Egilsstaðir, where we stop for a quick shop, then we go speedily south on the Hringvegur, up to the junction on the right for route 939 … It is an impervious dirt road that will save us about sixty kilometres and that should offer us some beautiful panoramic views … a shame, however, that it is completely shrouded in clouds and the expected panoramas remain hidden beyond the impenetrable curtain of water vapour. Once down below the blanket of clouds we stop to take a look at the Folaldafoss waterfall, a drop of about twenty metres of the Berufjarðara river, and further on, back on route 1, also the Sveinsstekksfoss waterfall … both nice, but certainly second tier.

Iceland's main road now runs along the shores of the ocean and would pass through a very beautiful stretch of coast (the coast of Lækjavík), with high surrounding mountains and also a beautiful sea stack, but the clouds and the greyness do not do it justice. We then continue to the turn-off for the intriguing beach of Stokksnes. Here too the weather is a bit temperamental and we cannot fully enjoy the place, with its bold peaks behind a beach as black as pitch … a shame! … So we console ourselves a little by seeing, in the bay, the reconstruction of an ancient Viking village, which incidentally is falling into ruin. It had been set up as a film set in 2010 for a film that, due to financial problems, was never shot … It seems, however, that the idea will soon be revived, perhaps as early as next year.

Going back to grinding out kilometres we reach the town of Höfn, where we will return for the night. For now, however, we stop to have lunch in a service area, refuel and set off again on route 1 towards the south-west, while on our right the immense Vatnajökull glacier begins to be glimpsed among the clouds. We devour the ribbon of asphalt with the offshoots of the glacier ever closer to us. We pass near the famous glacial lagoon of Jökulsárlón, which for the moment we ignore, and continue for another ten kilometres until we reach another glacial lagoon, that of Fjallsárlón, and there we stop.

On foot we go to see this yellowish body of water, dotted with small icebergs coming from the front of the great glacier, which can be glimpsed on the shore opposite ours … All very beautiful, but only the prelude to the wonders of the Jökulsárlón lagoon, which we find later returning on our steps. First we stop to see it from its southern shore: here the water is blue and the icebergs floating in it are much larger. Then we get back in the car and go to the point where the lagoon connects to the sea, via the Jökulsá, the shortest river in Iceland, crossed by the bridge of the Hringvegur. Here, on the beach, there is a myriad of blocks of ice, in magnificent contrast with the black sand, creating a very strange landscape, in which we wander for a long time, in search of the most original views.

Finally we access the lagoon at its most spectacular point, where enormous icebergs, sometimes of an incredible blue, pile up towards the outlet to the sea in an almost surreal scenario … and just as we are gazing at it, completely taken by it, a pod of seals also appears, putting on a little show, almost as if it were all arranged beforehand … There's no denying it: Jökulsárlón was a fantastic experience, one of those you don't forget, and if only there had been sun it would have been sublime, but we don't despair, because we will pass by here again tomorrow. It is now late afternoon and we head towards the end of the stage, but not before granting ourselves a few more thrills.

On the way back to Höfn in fact we take route F985, for 4x4 vehicles only, which in 16 impervious kilometres climbs up to the offshoots of Vatnajökull, one of the largest ice caps in the world, with an extension of about 8,100 square kilometres (more or less like the whole of Umbria) and a thickness that reaches almost a thousand metres! The gradients of this road are significant, but its dirt surface is in excellent condition, so without particular worries we reach the summit, which however is shrouded in clouds and you can't see a thing … what bad luck! Little Leo plays for a while in a patch of snow and then, just as we are about to leave, the clouds temporarily thin out letting us glimpse the glacier, not an outstanding view, but better than nothing. We descend calmly from the mountains and head towards Höfn, where we arrive shortly after 20:00.

We find the Sauðanes Guesthouse and shortly after we go to dinner in a pizzeria in the centre, concluding a beautiful day, but not too lucky … of course, we are in Iceland and sometimes you have to say thank you if it doesn't rain, but, as they say, the appetite comes with eating … and so it could have gone even better.

The weather is still gloomy when we wake up in the Sauðanes Guesthouse in Höfn. We do some shopping and then set off along route 1 towards the south-west, tackling the stretch already covered yesterday, up to the Jökulsárlón lagoon. While we are on the road and stop to photograph horses, however, the sky opens up letting a few rays of sun filter through and as time passes the patches of clear sky become more and more numerous, so when we are at the Jökulsárlón lagoon we can stop to immortalise it flooded with the splendid light of our star … It is truly a spectacle! … In addition there is low tide, which favours the exit of the icebergs into the sea and on the black beach there are lots of blocks of ice, even large ones, among which we linger for a long time.

In this way we dedicate another abundant hour to the lagoon and thank our good fortune that allowed us to see it in such conditions, then we resume the journey to focus on the day's visits. Fifty kilometres after Jökulsárlón we turn off to the right along the dirt road that leads near the glacial lagoon of Svinafelljökull, which is reached with a short walk. You get quite close and in its presence the great mass of ice is truly impressive, almost instils fear. Right after we move to the nearby and large car park from which the path that leads to the famous Svartifoss waterfall starts, while a magnificent day has come out, characterised by a beautiful clear sky.

There are almost two kilometres to walk uphill, but it is absolutely worth it … First you encounter another waterfall (Hundafoss), then in the distance Svartifoss can be glimpsed, which at first glance can even disappoint because it appears almost like an insignificant trickle of water. But it is not so much for the flow rate or the height of the drop (20 metres) that the waterfall became famous, but for its extraordinary setting, in fact it plunges into an almost perfect amphitheatre, entirely formed by black basalt columns in a vertical position.

So when we arrive in front of Svartifoss we are enchanted and linger to observe that impeccable picture made of primordial elements skilfully shaped by mother nature! Back from the walk we stop to have lunch at some outdoor tables, overlooked by the white silhouette of the Hvannadalshnjúkur, the highest Icelandic peak with its 2,109 metres, today visible thanks to the splendid atmospheric conditions, then we resume travelling along route 1 towards the west. After several kilometres through the desolate Skeiðarársandur, a vast flat and desert region formed by river debris and the devastating floods due to the eruptions of the volcanoes located beneath the ice cap, we first come into view of and then to the slopes of the imposing rocky spur of Lómagnúpur, which towers, with its almost seven hundred metres and its squat shape, over the entire surrounding landscape.

Having taken the necessary photos we continue and after another short stretch of road we pass in front of the Fosshotel Núpar, to which we will have to return for the night. Another ten kilometres and we arrive at the car park near the Dverghamrar site, where a splendid series of hexagonal basalt columns emerges from the ground, a magical place, which tradition holds to be the dwelling of elves and fairies. We wander for a while among the formations, which at times offer evocative views, enriched in the distance by the beautiful Foss á Siðu waterfall, which plunges from a high rocky ridge … A waterfall that we then go to see closer, to savour its setting made of black basalt rocks and very green meadows.

Subsequently we continue on route 1 also reaching the town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, with its unpronounceable name (for friends just Klaustur) and on its outskirts we go to see the interesting Stjórnarfoss waterfall (unfortunately a little short of water), then in the immediate vicinity the curious rock formations of Kirkjugólf. Here some stocky basalt columns emerge a few centimetres from the ground and, arranged in a honeycomb, smoothed and cemented by vegetation, in the past even made people think they were the ancient paving of a church (this is the meaning of the name), rather than a work of nature.

In the centre of Klaustur we also take a look at the Systrafoss waterfall, disappointing because almost dry, and continuing along a dirt road that exits west of the village to savour, with a short walk, the intriguing panoramas of Systrastapi, a green bend of the Skaftá river, characterised by the presence of an enormous monolith that makes the place particularly scenic. It is now late afternoon and on the programme there still remains one destination to explore, so we cover the few kilometres that separate us from it and in a short time we gain the car park near the evocative Fjarðrárgljúfur gorge. On foot we then follow the path that winds along the top of the canyon carved by the Fjarðrá river, at times exciting for its vertiginous views, not by chance it was also chosen for filming some scenes of the music video "I'll show you" by Justin Bieber, a renowned international star.

A shame only that the somewhat late hour already cloaks everything in shadow. Shortly after, tired but happy with the outcome of the fantastic day, we return to the Fosshotel Núpar, where we take possession of our room, then, having no alternatives, we have dinner in the (rather expensive) restaurant of the facility, then we devote ourselves to well-deserved rest.

We get up at the Fosshotel Núpar with a grey sky and the trip now inexorably drawing to a close, but at least it isn't raining. We resume our itinerary westward travelling the same road as yesterday to the vicinity of the Fjarðrárgljúfur gorge and from there we take the F206 track, to have a self-managed off-road experience, not all the way to the Laki craters (about 50 kilometres away) but roughly halfway, where there is an interesting waterfall. The dirt road, however, although bumpy, is travelled without problems and we also easily pass the two fords present, especially the second, of which I had some fear. So we can savour from above the view of the beautiful Fagrifoss waterfall … beautiful in name and in fact, since Fagrifoss means, precisely, beautiful waterfall: a splendid drop of about eighty metres of one of the thousand streams coming from the Vatnajökull glacier.

Afterwards we retrace the entire F206, including the two fords, and regain the asphalt of the Hringvegur, which immediately enters the vast area of volcanic origin of Eldhraun, an enormous lava field resulting from one of the most impressive eruptions in documented history, dating back to 1783, today completely covered with mosses and lichens. A landscape at times surreal, which extends for a good ten kilometres. Having passed Eldhraun we arrive in the town of Vík, famous for its black beach and the cliffs opposite. We pass through the town and follow the road that takes us to the vast beach of Reynisfjara, dominated by a powerful rocky promontory entirely composed of basalt columns and at the top of the cliff we can finally also see the nice puffins, which however are a little distant, but above all unapproachable.

We take a walk along the beach to its eastern limit, where there are some sea stacks, which however do not stand out properly, being black against the grey background of the clouds, while towards the opposite cardinal point the grandiose rock arch of Dyrhólaey can be glimpsed, where we will go later. We leave Reynisfjara and stop to have lunch at some tables along the road, but we make it quick because a freezing wind blows from the east. So before long we find ourselves on the way to the Dyrhólaey promontory, accompanied also by a light drizzle.

First of all we go to its easternmost tip, facing the beach of Reynisfjara, and there, to our great joy, while we explore the cliffs we come across a colony of puffins, which we can observe from a very close distance, testing their behaviour and their particular aesthetic characteristics, with the black back, the white belly and cheeks, but above all the large beak, which in shape resembles that of a parrot, with multicoloured hues ranging from orange to blue and yellow. Extremely satisfied with the experience we then move by car to the westernmost part of the promontory, where the cliffs are very high and overlooked by a large lighthouse, then, on foot, we reach the point from which you can admire the exceptional arch that made the place famous.

Having reorganised our ideas and the emotions accumulated in this extraordinary stretch of coast we set off again, but with a certain haste, because there are still many things to see in this intense day. After a handful of kilometres we thus skip the long hike (eight kilometres round trip) that leads to the photogenic wreck of a DC3 plane, which crashed in 1973 on the black and lonely beach of Sólheimsandur, and instead tackle the comfortable turn-off on the right that reaches the Sólheimajökull glacier. This glacial tongue is not comparable to those seen in previous days, but it particularly intrigued us, because it is easily accessible and allowed us to take, in complete safety, a few steps inside it, savouring the thrill of walking among the first crevasses.

Having resumed the road, in a short time we reach the town of Skógar and here we go to park the car right in front of the Skógar Folk Museum, which however is not our goal (among other things the typical Icelandic little houses reconstructed there are clearly visible, even if only externally, without having to pay the entrance ticket). On foot we instead head towards a small valley located almost behind the museum … a place for which we find no signs along the way and of which there is no trace in our guidebook, only online had I found some mention. So we are amazed, because we find ourselves in an idyllic environment, with the green valley ending in a rocky amphitheatre, where the thunderous Kvernufoss waterfall plunges, a marvellous drop of thirty metres that can be observed, in a very evocative way, also from behind, capturing at the very least original angles.

Extremely pleased we return to the museum car park and by car we move no more than a kilometre to the more famous Skógafoss waterfall, while it starts to rain, so much so that to go to its feet we have to put on our ponchos. In addition the imposing drop, 25 metres wide and 62 high, creates a thick cloud of water vapour and soaks you by itself, so, to avoid coming out completely soaked, it almost turns into a lightning visit. Having regained the dry interior of our car we resume the road because for today it is not over yet. From Skógar, on route 1, we in fact travel about thirty kilometres westward (during which fortunately the rain stops) and arrive right in front of another water wonder: the Seljalandsfoss waterfall. From a sixty-metre-high rocky ridge descends a powerful jet of water, which in this case too can be observed from behind.

You do it by following a rather rough path, along which you get a little wet, but it is definitely worth it because the spectacle is unique and in those moments you almost feel part of the natural event! A few hundred metres away, in the same cliff, is then the Glijúfurárbui waterfall, which has a truly incredible peculiarity, because once you get almost in front of it you hear it, but you don't see it.

In fact it plunges into a very narrow rocky gorge and to reach it we also have to walk balancing on some stones emerging from the river … so after this little adventure we can finally admire the thunderous mass of water cascading into a cave … a setting nothing short of astounding! Having come out a little wet also from this bizarre situation, with a short climb, we observe Glijúfurárbui also from above and in this way we complete the visits planned for the day, which at times have been exciting, despite the not too favourable weather. We get in the car and head towards our last Icelandic overnight stay, so around 20:00 we arrive in the town of Hella to stay in a cottage of the Cafe Árhús Hella. We have dinner with a pizza in the restaurant of the facility and then we retire to our little wooden house to sort out the suitcases a bit, in view of tomorrow evening's departure for home.

We are at the epilogue of this extraordinary trip, but we will leave Iceland only in the evening, so also for today we will be busy with a series of visits and experiences … not helped, however, by good weather, in fact the sky is completely overcast and promises nothing good. We set off along route 1 westward, but before long we turn towards the interior taking route 26, which we then travel for about eighty kilometres, while it also begins, inexorably, to drizzle.

We don't lose heart and start following the F208 track, which should take us to the great geothermal area of Landmannalaugar and from the very first bends the panorama becomes decidedly interesting, characterised by desolate moorlands and volcanic peaks, an evocative setting, which we dare not think how it would have been with the sun! After about twenty kilometres we turn left for a short detour that takes us to the shores of Hnausapollur: a scenic lake located inside an ancient crater (also called Bláhylur due to the turquoise blue colour of its waters). Its steep shores, formed by volcanic debris covered with green moss, create exceptional colour contrasts, which we manage to appreciate despite the rain and the strong wind.

Later we make another detour, this time a little longer and more demanding, to reach another splendid volcanic lake: Ljótipollur, so beautiful, with its blue water and red shores derived from deposits of iron minerals, that its name (by irony of fate) instead means ugly puddle! We stop just long enough for a few photos and then return to travel the F208, which a little further on skirts the lake Frostastaðavatn, with beautiful views that also range over the small volcanic cone of Stutur, which we would also have liked to climb on foot, but the weather conditions advise against it.

A little later we turn onto the F224 track which after two kilometres reaches the Landmannalaugar ford, a ford that can be crossed on a footbridge, but which we could also have tackled with our car if only it had been worth it … From there, in fact, we should have set off for a two-hour walk to discover the geothermal area and the multicoloured volcanic landscapes of Brennisteinsalda, but the driving rain today is really too heavy, so we had to abandon the idea. Meekly we therefore begin to retrace the entire dirt road travelled so far … a shame! … Even though the effort still offered us great emotions.

Having regained the asphalt of route 26 we stop to have lunch, strictly in the car due to the bad weather, then we set off again and try to tackle another track, the F332, which in six bumpy kilometres leads to the car park near the Háifoss waterfall, the second highest in Iceland, with its 122 metres. We stop for some time in the car park waiting for the rain to slow down and after a while it does, so we set off along the short path that leads to see the waterfall from above … It is a grandiose panorama that unfolds at our feet, with the deafening noise of the water falling to the bottom of the canyon, water that however starts falling copiously again from the sky and to return to the car we get a good soaking … We come down from the F332 and when we reach the asphalt it stops raining, so much so that I almost feel like going back up to the waterfall, but I give up.

We thus go a little further along route 32 until we take another track (the 327), which leads to the valley of Gjáin, with the sun even peeking out from the clouds. Gjáin is a small paradise basin, immersed in greenery, with water flowing down from all sides and there, finally, we can take a pleasant walk, then we resume the itinerary … an itinerary that however is now at its epilogue, in fact only one place remains to see and it is no more than ten kilometres away. The last thing we visit in Iceland is the Hjálparfoss waterfall: nothing exciting after all those seen during the trip, but still nice, with its branching into two drops divided by a basalt formation. Immediately afterwards begins the last stretch of road towards Reykjavík first and then Keflavík airport … and along the way it rains in buckets the whole time, but at this point it matters little.

Having reached our destination we go into the town of Keflavík to find a place to have dinner, then we head to the Mycar car rental to return the car. We thus leave our faithful Rav 4, with which in Iceland we covered a good 4,648 kilometres and by taxi we have ourselves taken to the airport. We check in all the luggage directly for Bologna, go through security checks and wait in front of gate A14 … and there the worst day of the holiday, due to weather, comes to an end, because we will board when it is already …

We set foot on Air Berlin flight AB 3929 somewhat after the scheduled time and with the same delay, at 1:07, the Airbus A320 lifts off bound for Düsseldorf. I set my watch forward by two hours to the German time zone, but also the Italian one, and then I try to close my eyes a little to rest... but not too much, in fact I soon feel the plane beginning its descent toward the German city, where it lands at 6:02 local time. Now there will be over three hours before the next leg that will take us back to Italy, so we wait the whole time at gate 42, then finally we board the Dash8-Q400 aircraft of Air Berlin which, identified as flight AB 8682, at 10:00 sharp takes off, immediately banking toward the south. Everything goes smoothly. We cross the Alpine arc and then descend toward the Po Valley. So we land at Bologna's Marconi airport at 11:37, while outside it's well over thirty degrees...

quite a temperature swing considering that only yesterday we were close to zero! We collect our suitcases, then the car from parking lot P4 and already shortly after 12:30 we're on the road home. We exit the highway at 13:00 at Faenza and exactly sixteen minutes later we happily conclude... very happily conclude the trip in front of our sweet home. It was an extraordinary journey, one of the most beautiful ever, in which Mother Nature reigned supreme, manifesting herself in numerous ways: from the wild coasts to the incredible waterfalls, from the thrilling encounter with the whales and the rich birdlife to the extreme weather phenomena of the polar regions and the intense volcanic activity, because this magical land can be said to have an icy soul and a heart of fire... a peculiarity more unique than rare, which we will never forget!