Budapest

arrival and evening

Taking off from Orio al Serio with SkyEurope (eur 26) at 15:20 we landed in Budapest right on time at 16:55. The seats, unlike Ryanair, are assigned at check-in. Once at the airport we withdrew money directly with our debit card, after comparing the exchange office's rate list with the rate we had previously checked online. (All things considered, including the bank's transaction fee, the exchange rate came out to 260; at the airport it seemed to be above 280 eur) Inside the airport (at the newsstand) we bought tickets for the bus and metro (F185x2). Leaving the airport on the sidewalk to the left we headed to the bus stop. Since it was Saturday we took the 100 but there's also the 93. They both take you comfortably to the terminus of metro line 3.

Given the time, we headed to the House of Terror but, even though there were still almost two hours until closing, they wouldn't let us in (probably you need more time for the visit). We took advantage of it for a nice walk along Andrassy Ut.

We decide to leave the suitcase early, at the hostel, the Frends Hostel Budapest on Haris Koz, 2 right in the center! (booked with a 10% deposit online on the Skyeurope hostels website) Having given 21:00 as the check-in time, we find no one waiting for us but we're lucky because some girls, who were going out, let us leave the suitcase. With the intention of taking a nice walk we end up visiting the center, full of so many interesting buildings. We come back along the Danube, how romantic! In the evening, at check-in, we have to settle the bill for the two nights right away (eur 24 each). The room is small but really cute (it feels like being at Ikea) and the bathroom is across from the room. We open our suitcases and go out for a further exploration of the city in its night version. We discover buildings and galleries with worked glass ceilings.

We cross Elizabeth Bridge to head to the Castle and admire the illumination of the Chain Bridge from afar. We walk along the Danube below the castle and reach the top of the hill. Everything is suggestively lit and the Fisherman's Bastion is truly magical and romantic. From the top you can see the whole city, the Parliament, the Chain Bridge, etc. Remember to bring your tripod with you so you can get photos definitely better than ours! After coming down from the Castle through the Bastion we crossed the Chain Bridge and following the Danube we returned to the hostel, tired but satisfied.

center, Hosok Tere, museums, zoo, castle, etc

On Monday all the museums are closed and, already resigned from the start, we get up at 7:00 for a tour de force of all the museums of interest! We leave the hostel at 8:00 (a bit sleepy) following a rough itinerary prepared to make the most of the very little time available. We start from the very nearby Belarosi Templon church, the oldest in Pest, and then walk the entire Vaci Ucta, passing through Vorosmarty square, in front of the famous Gerbeaud pastry shop, which I plan to try later. The Ridotto (Vigadò) is, unfortunately, partially wrapped up. We continue with the beautiful Gresham Palace in Art Nouveau style (or secessionist, as this movement is called in Hungary). Yes, the name is indeed that of the founder of the first London Stock Exchange, the building is a Hotel with so many stars that I had to insist with Lore to go in and visit it.

Indeed all the liveried service people, the luxury cars in front, etc. make you doubt it, but once inside, it's worth it and no one will say anything to you! On the side we also admire the Palace of the Academy of Sciences, then continue on to the Parliament. Visiting the interior, strictly with a guided tour, is worth it but requires at least 3 hours. Based on the photos, if you have the time, it's worth it. The building is in perfect English style, in fact the neo-Gothic facade strongly recalls the London Parliament. We arrive, then, always surrounded by very well-kept and distinctive buildings, in Szabadse Ter, that is Liberty Square. While we rest on the park benches we admire the beautiful building of the American embassy. At this point near the Opera we enter Andrassy Ut to walk it all the way to Heroes' Square Hosok Tere.

If you want, you can use the metro, and indeed it's interesting (we took this stretch on the way back) because this stretch, which starts from Vorosmarty, dates back to 1896 and is the oldest in continental Europe. Heroes' Square hosts the "millennium monument" of 1896 celebrating the 1000 years of the Magyars in the region. Indeed it's beautiful but we, based on the photos, thought it would be more scenic. We go straight into the Museum of Fine Arts, because it starts raining, considered one of the richest in the world for art. Entry to the permanent collection (the temporary exhibitions were not of interest to us) is free also because, we discover, it's under renovation. Unfortunately several important works are missing but I think it's still worth a visit. On the way out the weather has improved and we take a stroll in the municipal park of Varosloget to see Vajdabunyad castle.

There's the women's marathon and the whole park is celebrating with folk dances and music. We eat a roasted corn on the cob while looking with mouth watering at sweets like braided sweet bread (unfortunately we can't eat wheat). We also go into the zoo (1600F), despite the favorable account read on the website, it disappoints us a bit because of the state of maintenance, the size of the living spaces available to the animals and the small number of them. We take the metro to go and get off at Moszkova to go to the Castle. Once we get off at the stop, here's the first little stop at the Mommut shopping center where Hungarian salami and typical cheeses are a must, as well as trying strange but good fruit drinks.

Of course we can't resist and as soon as we arrive in a little square with trees and benches we test what we bought (also because without realizing it, it's now 3 pm and we hadn't had lunch yet... and breakfast? What a disaster...) The weather, which had been changeable, gets decidedly worse and the temperature starts to feel chilly. We visit the stunning church of St. Matthias (600) which truly deserves a long visit. And I, furthermore, am a fanatic of Art Nouveau (see the story about Brussels) and here I really go into raptures! Once out we manage to shelter under the portico of the Fisherman's Bastion before the deluge. We take a few photos but it's so dark that you'd need the tripod. How different it is compared to the night before! Ever more soaked and chilled we walk through the deserted and dark village...it feels like the end of October (back home). It's a bit sad.

We reach the Royal Palace which houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the Szechenyi National Library. To get back we decide to cut through and use the elevator (100F), finding ourselves heading toward Elizabeth Bridge which we cross to reach the hostel. I'm dead from the cold and try to cheer myself up with a nice hot shower. We're a bit demoralized by the weather...online the forecast was different! We rest a little, try to dry the clothes that, despite the umbrellas, got soaked, and, before going out for dinner, I pack the suitcase. We go to a nice little restaurant where we had seen an interesting tourist menu. We discover, however, that the tourist menus (real deals) are only valid for lunch and so we order a la carte. The goulash is good, it's a broth with meat and vegetables. We also taste the Tokaj, very sweet and strong. Everything is delicious.

Being in the center we can't resist another little stroll, also because we're well covered with sweaters and jackets. Tired but happy we return to the hostel. Will we have walked more than 20 km on foot? Well, we'll get used to it...

isola margherita, stazione, chiese, sinagoghe mk coperto e partenza

It's departure day. We leave our luggage in storage and dedicate ourselves to visiting the center and the churches.

The weather has improved and we head to Margaret Island but, having almost reached the bridge, we decide to take a bus to reduce the time. The island is an immense green park complete with running tracks along the outer perimeter. There are also the thermal baths of the Hotel Thermal. The very well-kept Japanese garden and the remains of the monastery of Saint Margaret are beautiful. Careful, bring your repellent: we couldn't stop for more than 5 minutes because the mosquitoes are very aggressive. It's a nice walk to admire the buildings on the banks of the Danube up to Margaret Bridge.

Continuing in Pest you pass in front of the beautiful Nyugati Station built by Eiffel. Lore gives in to my big puppy eyes in front of a pastry shop and we taste a slice of cake. We then visit the grand Basilica of Saint Stephen, glimpsed on the day of arrival, which overlooks a large square.

We continue with the two Synagogues. The first is under renovation (500 Florins) and is very evocative, the second, very touristy, is rich and well-kept and also includes the memorial, a weeping willow (see photo). You can buy several types of tickets. We choose the one for 1200 Florins which includes the Synagogue, the willow and the museum. Evocative!

After so much religious beauty we move on to the covered market, a beautiful building that contains on three well-aligned floors food shops, crafts, souvenirs and even a supermarket. Ideal if you're undecided and want to bring home a little something. Also for eating it's not bad: having already had lunch we only gave in to some little sweets but there are restaurants, self-service with typical dishes that from the smell seemed quite good. We look at the clock and realize we still have time to go see, if not the Citadel at least the statue of St. Gellert, but unfortunately I realize I no longer have my scarf and, we turn back to retrieve it. Lore will thus remain curious about climbing all the way up there. Sorry! Later we stop by to pick up the suitcase at the hostel and take the metro to the bus station at Népliget Aut. All. (we'll discover it far too early).

Right on time at 22:30 we depart, after checking in and exchanging the printout from the internet for the actual ticket (Eurolines line, booking 30 days in advance, 18 Eur each). We'll manage to sleep despite the toilet stops and the border crossings. The arrival in Praha, center (Aut. Nadr Florence), will be at 6:30 / 7:00 in the morning.