Crete 2008

CRETE 2008 TRAVEL DIARY

Travellers: Tano and Caterina

Destination: the island of Crete from 16 July to 30 July 2008

Before leaving: research online, travel diaries by various travellers (some of them very interesting), the Crete road map (Touring Club Italiano) and The most beautiful beaches of Crete by Alberta Galla and Michele Buonsanti, Mystis edition.

Bookings made: thanks to our research and the travel diaries we read, we booked through the website run by two very kind Italians, Andrea and Anna Marini (e-mail: andrea18@otenet.gr), who moved to Crete. - the car, class D (only this category was still available) at the price of 360.00 EUR for fourteen days - four days to spend at Xerocambos, villa Ampelos - flight Catania-Heraklion (WindJet charter flight organised by Kenoby) at the price of 395.00 EUR per person.

16 July 2008

The WindJet flight organised by Kenoby, scheduled for 12:00 from Catania airport, was perfectly on time, so we arrived in Heraklion at 14:50 local time (compared with Italy you have to move your watch forward by one hour). The hired car, category D at 360.00 EUR for 14 days, was a Hyundai Accent. I confirm that on the new road you have to move over onto the emergency lane to let faster cars overtake. After about two and a half hours we reached the town of Kissamos and the room for rent Bikakis Family (tel. 0032822024257, cost 30.00 EUR per night, the room without air conditioning, but it wasn't needed), which is on the small street to the right parallel to the main one. The owner is kind and helpful but the room is quite spartan. The room has a fridge, a bathroom with a shower and a TV.

17 July 2008

Woke up at 07:00 to go and see the splendid beach of Elafonissi. The route we chose to reach the beach was the inland one passing through Topolia and Elos. Having arrived at Elafonissi after about an hour and a half by car, and having found a parking spot in the shade of a tree, we set off towards the islet after wading through a short stretch of water. You have to reach the furthest coves, which are beautiful and wild. On the islet, fishing, hunting, collecting sand and using beach umbrellas are forbidden. Back in Kissamos towards evening we went to eat at Pikantiko, about 50 metres away after turning left off the little street opposite the Bikakis.

18 July 2008

Woke up at 07:00 to go and see the Balos lagoon. To reach the lagoon you can take boats from the small harbour of Kissamos that carry tourists. We preferred to reach the lagoon by car. After reaching the town of Kaliviani the dirt road begins and must be driven with caution. After about 30 minutes on the dirt road you reach the car park, from where a path of about 30 minutes on foot starts. The view from above the lagoon is truly breathtaking and it would be a shame to miss such a sight. On the beach, before the boats arrive, there are only ten people enjoying such beauty. At 12:00 the boats start arriving, until about 17:45. The beach, of indescribable beauty, unfortunately shows traces of tar.

19 July 2008

We reach Paleochora. We choose a beach 4 km from the centre, heading towards the campsite, near the beaches of Anidri. The road is a dirt track but flat, so there's no need to worry about the car. The beach is pebbly and the seabed is fabulous, ideal for snorkelling. At 17:45 we set off for Chania. Finding accommodation is simply a matter of price, so after a short search we take the Kastelli guesthouse near the Venetian harbour for 40.00 EUR.

20 July 2008

Woke up at 08:30 with a walk and breakfast in Chania. At 10:30 we set off for Plakias, which we reached after about two and a half hours. We visited the beaches of Ammoudi and Skinari and stayed at the Livicon beach Hotel (tel 2832031216 e-mail: liviconplakias@acn.gr) on the seafront at the price of 30.00 EUR.

21 July 2008

Woke up at 07:30 and, after breakfast in one of the little places on the seafront (7.00 EUR), we set off to reach the beach of Preveli. The beach seen from above is very beautiful, with dense vegetation of palms and oleanders behind it and the river that divides it into two parts. You need to walk the palm path to admire the stream in all its beauty. I wouldn't advise taking a pedal boat because the navigable stretch is about 100 metres, after which the rocks block the way.

22 July 2008

We reach Matala and, taking the little street on the left (full of signs for rooms to let), we went to Antonio's Studio for 30.00 EUR. We visited the beach of Kommos.

23 July 2008

We decide to see the famous Red Beach. There are two paths: one easier but longer and one shorter but more difficult. We chose the shorter one, which starts from the little street where the apartment we chose for the night is located. The first stretch is almost a climb, then you reach a small gate to close behind you after passing through, and the descent begins. The route to the beach is about 30 minutes. Once on the beach we noticed that the sand is an ochre-yellow colour. In the afternoon we reached Mirtos and found accommodation at the Cretan House (tel 0030842026435) at the price of 65 EUR for two nights.

24 July 2008

Woke up at 08:00 and set off for Ierapetra, from where the boats leave for the island of Chrissi. At 10:30 the boats leave for the islet. As soon as we disembarked on Chrissi we headed for Golden Beach, on the north side of the islet. What struck us was the path among the cedars and the colours of the beach and the sea.

25 - 26 July 2008

We reach Xerocambos. Where we will stay at villa Ampelos (booked from Italy through the website). It's impossible to resist the temptation to take panoramic photos as you come down the Zyros - Xerocambos connecting road. The place is very beautiful and quiet, ideal for a restorative holiday, and for snorkelling enthusiasts it's a place not to be missed. In Xerocambos there are four tavernas and a mini-market. 27 July 2008 We set off to visit the beach of Vai. The beach is beautiful but very commercial, and when the crowd becomes excessive we head for Itanos. In Itanos there are two beaches, both very beautiful.

28 July 2008

Woke up at 07:30 and set off for Makrigialos, about 1 hour from Xerocambos. The boat leaves at 10:30 (30.00 EUR with lunch included) and will carry about 25 people to Koufonissi, a deserted islet far from mass tourism. As soon as we landed on the island each passenger chooses their own little cove. We feel like owners of the island. Compared with Chrissi it is wilder but objectively less beautiful, yet still not to be missed.

29 July 2008

We reach Agios Nikolaos. The town is very touristy and has the characteristic of having a lake near the tourist harbour area. This was the only place where we had a bit more difficulty finding accommodation (many don't want to let for just one night). In the end we find the Mary guesthouse (on Evans street) at the price of 35.00 EUR with air conditioning. In the evening we dined in the lake area.

30 July 2008

Visit to the Cret@quarium and the palace of Knossos. Return of the car (1418 km) and departure with a 6-hour delay. Cost of the trip for two people, all included, 2183 EUR.