Horses in the Camargue

We have been to the Camargue twice, and many years have passed since then. The Camargue means horses, bulls and nature, mistral and blue skies, steppe and flamingos, storks and bullfighting, paella and scents, the Rhône and lagoons. The sky is often very clear, it feels like being in the mountains, the mistral sweeps away clouds and haze. We stayed at the "Le Clos du Rhone" campsite, in the centre of the Camargue Nature Park, between the Little Rhône and St.Maries de la Mer, the traditional meeting place for the annual gathering of the gypsies in spring, when they come here to venerate their saints. The Camargue horses are not very big, and horse rides suitable even for children and beginners are organised everywhere; going horseback riding for the first time and finding yourself among the bulls makes quite an impression.

At sunset the flamingos move towards the lagoon, flying low, and you can see their red and black wings. For the children at the campsite it's a race to see who gives the first warning; they suddenly shout "Le flamants....le flamants" and everyone rushes out, noses in the air. From St.Maries de la Mer you can reach Salin de Giraud on foot or by bicycle, along the sea wall and across beaches of fine sand, mostly deserted. Nearby, worth seeing is the Ornithological Park, and not to be missed is the boat trip on the Rhône. Entertaining, at St.Maries de la Mer, is the "Bull in the pool" show, in which, inside the arena, some volunteer spectators have to persuade a young bull to cross a plastic swimming pool. Excellent ice creams in St.Maries, the legendary baguettes, unforgettable paella and gardienne de toro (a kind of stew). The only problem: the mosquitoes....arm yourself with spray.