Guadeloupe: the Caribbean of Europe

In the air there is an international situation that is anything but clear, with a war that has just taken place in Iraq, but there is also a dangerous virus that, although spread almost exclusively in the East, has somehow frightened Sabrina. On top of that there are the annoying after-effects of a meniscus operation on yours truly to shake off. Nonetheless, God willing, we set off, after a long winter and, ironically, for the third year in a row on 21 April, for Guadeloupe, in the French Antilles. The alarm clock is, as usual, quite early: shortly after 6:00 we are already up and calmly getting ready, since everything is prepared and all that's left is breakfast. Federico, on the other hand, after a few moments needed to take in reality, is immediately seized by enthusiasm... Less exciting are, on the contrary, the weather conditions: the sky is in fact grey and it is raining steadily.

At 7:15 the grandparents arrive to pick us up, with the campervan, to take us to the airport, and with the luggage loaded, at 7:26 we leave home. A quarter of an hour later, at 7:42, we enter the motorway at Faenza, while the weather is foul, and this only increases our desire to reach our destination. At 8:00 we leave the motorway and begin driving along the Bologna ring road to arrive, shortly afterwards, at 8:19, at Marconi airport. We say goodbye to the grandparents, who are in turn about to leave for a short trip to Puglia, and enter the departures hall with the trolley loaded with suitcases, on top of which sits, as tradition dictates, the smiling child.

We immediately check in our luggage, treat ourselves to a coffee, pass through check-in without problems and wait at gate number thirteen, from which we will board (flight Af 1229) for Paris, as happens, systematically, on 21 April, for at least two years now. The wait is short so, shortly after 9:30, we go through the gate, board a bus and reach the Air France Airbus A319 which, slightly delayed, at 10:24, takes off, while the constancy with which the rain keeps falling is disarming and only after a few minutes of flight, once we have climbed above the clouds, can we finally see the warm light of the sun! The white mass beneath us thins out only for a brief moment, letting us glimpse the snow-covered Alps, then it takes over again and keeps it up for practically the whole journey, until at Charles De Gaulle airport, where we land at 11:40, it finally gives way to a clear sky.

We get off the plane and wait for the luggage, which we absolutely must collect, before transferring to Paris's second airport, Orly, from where we will finally take off for the Caribbean. We wait a quarter of an hour under a warm sun, then, at 12:50, we board a coach, whose excessively tinted windows prevent us from seeing anything or almost anything during the roughly thirty-minute journey, while Federico, tired from the early rise, keeps almost falling asleep. In the end, though, we find ourselves in the departures hall of Orly, again with trolley in hand, ready to face another boarding. The plane, apparently, is full and, unfortunately, the three seats assigned to us are not all together, so, somewhat annoyed, we wait at gate number thirty-two, in front of which, shortly after 14:00, boarding begins for flight Af 624.

As soon as we get on the plane, fortunately, a French girl asks us if we want to swap our separated ticket with hers: we can hardly believe we can solve all our problems so quickly, but we are indeed all together again, comfortably seated in row forty, and we just wait for take-off time. At 15:26, after a long run-up, the gigantic Air France Boeing 747 climbs, heading for Pointe-à-Pitre, on the islands of Guadeloupe, and shortly afterwards Sabrina and Federico can finally take a nap, while, beneath us, quite a few clouds prevent us from seeing land. When they thin out we glimpse some islands off the Breton coast, then while we have lunch, even though it's already past 16:00, the ocean opens up before us and on the screens appear the miles to be covered...

more than three thousand! Many, very many clouds dominate the scene for almost the whole Atlantic crossing, then, two hours from our destination, the intense blue of the sea appears, which remains until we enter a big cloud inside which our island lies, where we land, making up six hours of time difference, at 17:51 local time. Guadeloupe (of which, politically, St. Martin is also part) is a French overseas department and as such it is, to all intents and purposes, a little piece of Europe in the Caribbean; indeed we will also use the euro as currency here and it will be a nice convenience not to have to deal with currency exchange. If observed on a geographical map, moreover, Guadeloupe (which has a total area of 1,434 square kilometres) brings to mind the shape of a butterfly, composed as it is of two adjacent islands, of volcanic origin, which ideally form the wings.

However, the symmetry that can be seen in the outlines does not correspond to any morphological similarity. Grande-Terre, the eastern part, has a flat or gently hilly territory, largely exploited for sugarcane cultivation. Basse-Terre, the western part, is instead a high and mountainous island, rich in hills and elevations covered by a rainforest thick with tall trees and flourishing ferns. Reflecting, finally, on the two islands, one cannot but note an apparent contradiction: the eastern island, which is smaller and flat, is called Grande-Terre (big land), while the more extensive and mountainous island is called Basse-Terre (low land).

All becomes clear when you consider that it was not the nature of the terrain that inspired the French who named the islands, but rather the winds that sweep them: the trade winds coming from the north-east blow impetuously (or big) over the plains of Grande-Terre, but are held back by the mountains rising in the west, then blowing weakly (or low) over Basse-Terre. No wind at all blows, on the other hand, when we get off the plane, at Pointe-à-Pitre international airport, and it is also very hot, but deep down we came here for this too. We collect our suitcases safe and sound and darkness soon falls, as we meet the representatives of Exotismes (the same tour operator we used on our trip to Mauritius).

We are then invited to get into a minibus which, after racing around for a good half hour, dropping off tourists left and right along the south-western coast of Grande-Terre, leaves us in front of the Hotel Marifa, just after Gosier (the tourist capital of Guadeloupe), near the settlement of Mare-Gaillard, where we will stay for the entire duration of the trip. The resort complex, we already knew, is not on the seafront, but never mind, as long as it is comfortable; indeed we will mostly just sleep there... the only thing we feel like doing this evening, given the devastating effects of jet lag. So when they hand us the keys to room number 415 (which appears quite spacious and comfortable), after a refreshing shower, we soon doze off in our beds...

tomorrow the visit to Guadeloupe will begin, which we hope will be as beautiful as it is beautiful, right now, to finally be able to close our eyes and slide, gently, into the world of dreams.

The day begins very early, with Sabrina and Federico already awake shortly after 4:00 due to jet lag, then, about an hour later, we all find ourselves on the room's terrace, eyes wide open, enjoying the dawn that sets the Caribbean sky ablaze. Calmly we begin to get ready and sort out the backpacks until, as soon as possible (that is, a few minutes after 7:00), we go out to have breakfast: we are not the only ones and this, at least, consoles us. Meanwhile we notice that the weather conditions are not optimal; the sky is in fact hazy, but I believe that sooner or later the sun will come out to dominate the scene. At 8:15 we have an appointment with Daniel from Exotismes, but he doesn't show up and at reception they let us know that he usually comes to the Marifa on Wednesdays... no great harm: I don't think he has much more to tell us than we already know.

We request a rental car and shortly afterwards a Sixt employee turns up and invites us to go with him. Federico and I go, while Sabrina stays at the hotel waiting for us. The company's offices are in Bas-du-Fort, just before Pointe-à-Pitre: it will be about ten kilometres, but there is quite a bit of traffic towards the city and it takes us a good half hour. Another half hour is needed to draw up the contract, then we head back and when we arrive at the Marifa we find Sabrina a little worried and irritated about the time it took, but it's not our fault. Soon, though, good humour returns and, around 10:00, we can finally set off, in our new blue Punto (licence plate 786 WWK 971), to discover Guadeloupe. We go a few kilometres west of Mare-Gaillard, to nearby St. Félix to see an area about which I had strong doubts...

doubts that are in no way allayed: it's not worth wasting any more time and we change direction. We go east, pass our hotel and reach the settlement of St. Anne, where we do some providential shopping and a fuel refill that is more than essential judging by the warning light that's on. Nearby is one of the best-known beaches of Guadeloupe: the Plage de la Caravelle, which although it stretches right in front of the exclusive Club Méditerranée is public domain and accessible to all. You just have to go through a revolving gate that, probably for security, is closed at night, and you find yourself on the beach, all of light sand, bordered by a scenic grove of palms... but perhaps it's the not-too-clear day and the light, not quite right, but the whole thing doesn't stand out as it should; moreover, naturally, the place is far too exploited for tourism.

We settle near the trees, then have a swim and lunch, while the sun slowly, slowly gains the upper hand and in the early afternoon the sky turns an intense blue. The light changes, things become brighter and the extraordinary colours of the sea light up: it feels like being in another place and everything is more beautiful! We literally enjoy the Plage de la Caravelle the whole time, while a local boy takes a liking to Federico and first offers him half a coconut, then gives him a nice bracelet made from the roots of the plant. The afternoon flies by in a flash and when the sun, along with our improvised Caribbean friend, leaves, we leave too. In a supermarket in St.

Anne we buy a spit-roasted chicken, crisps and a baguette, so we can have dinner in our room in anticipation of an evening still dominated by the effects of jet lag; indeed, shortly after eight in the evening our eyelids are already very heavy and we soon give in to the temptation to close them, remembering, however, this first day, undoubtedly positive, in Guadeloupe... and if a good day can be seen from the morning...

We miss the dawn but we are still decidedly early risers; indeed, shortly after 6:00, we are all already awake and full of energy, eager to face another day, but in reality there's no rush because, of course, breakfast can't be eaten before 7:00. The sky is particularly clear and I think we'll change today's programme, which envisaged a whole day at the beach, to visit a part of Basse-Terre usually dominated by clouds, so as to give a bit of a break also to our skin, reddened after the first day of tropical sun. At 8:15 we wait for Daniel at reception, but this time too he doesn't show up. They let us know that we'll meet him this evening at 18:30, but at that time, perhaps, it will be us who won't be there. Meanwhile we try not to waste any more time and start following the coastal road westward, in the direction of Pointe-à-Pitre and Basse-Terre.

We leave behind the capital of Grande-Terre and cross the bridge that joins the two islands, spanning the narrow mangrove channel called Rivière Salée, then, a handful of kilometres further on, we turn right following the Route de la Traversée, the only road that cuts the island in two, passing through the Guadeloupe National Park. The strip of asphalt runs between two wings of very dense vegetation, touching, one after another, several points of interest, the first of which is the Cascade aux Ecrevisses. We park the car at the roadside and, following the signs, walk along a path that ventures into the lush rainforest, along the edge of a stream, and soon reaches the spot where, with a scenic leap, a side tributary plunges into a characteristic pool and then flows placidly into the main bed.

There are several tourists who even swim there and it would be a great experience to imitate them, but bathing in fresh water is one of the few things best avoided in Guadeloupe due to the possible presence of certain parasites which, if contracted, end up triggering bilharzia, a dangerous disease. We take a few photos, let Federico run around for a while among the stones surrounding the site and then return to the main road. We stop a little further on at the Maison de la Forêt, a small documentation centre of the park behind which, after crossing a striking suspension bridge (which frightens Sabrina a bit but delights Federico), a circuit unfolds that, in twenty minutes of walking, gives some idea of what the main characteristics of the rainforest are, between the incredible quantity of botanical species present and a humidity level that almost takes your breath away.

We leave the Maison de la Forêt, which is located, in practice, halfway along the Route de la Traversée, and immediately afterwards we come across the mountainous rugged features called Les Mamelles which, by their shape, should remind one precisely of a woman's breast, but despite all our efforts we can't manage to see them side by side, at the expense, naturally, of the effect. So we climb, following the signs, to Morne a Louis, a hill where several antennas stand and from which you enjoy a magnificent 360-degree panoramic view over Guadeloupe: you can also glimpse, in the stretch of sea beyond the tree fronds, the Îlet Pigeon, where we'll go in the afternoon.

Before going down to the sea, however, we stop once more: at the Parc des Mamelles, a small zoo and botanical park where we can see (unfortunately in captivity) the raccoon, symbol of the Guadeloupe National Park, but above all, to the delight of the little one, a welcome surprise awaits us. There is the possibility of following a route equipped with a system of walkways that allows a breathtaking walk at the tops of the trees. Sabrina doesn't feel up to it, but we, "tough men", put on the safety harness and enjoy a truly unique experience, suspended over ten metres high. In the end we leave the park satisfied and begin to descend, in switchbacks, towards the western coast of Basse-Terre. We thus reach the Plage de Malendure, from where we will set off, at 14:30, for a boat excursion to the opposite Îlet Pigeon, which is part of the Réserve Cousteau, a protected marine park.

While waiting we have a swim: the water is lovely and warm, but Basse-Terre is the most volcanic part of Guadeloupe and the dark sand doesn't bring out the colours of the sea, so it's the palms, lined up along the edges of the inlet, that characterise the place, which all in all isn't bad given that, deep down, we only have to spend less than two hours there... Just the time to freshen up and have lunch, then here we are on the nearby pier waiting to set off for the excursion. We head out to sea, while the sun, unfortunately, is no longer as abundant as in the morning, and near the islet we are invited to go down into the hull of the boat, equipped with large windows through which we can see the underwater world, which is nothing exceptional apart from a large school of fish probably attracted with food, but the little one enjoys it and that alone makes us happy.

Later we also stop near an inlet to go snorkelling: Sabrina stays on board, because the lack of sun makes her cold, but she doesn't miss much, since visibility is poor and the fish are even fewer... a small disappointment when you think it should be a marine park, but perhaps the beauties are elsewhere, given that the area abounds with diving centres. Meanwhile the sky is getting darker and when we return to Plage de Malendure a few drops of rain even fall, so we get in the car and leave. We retrace the whole Route de la Traversée and when we arrive on the eastern side of Basse-Terre, in the distance, we glimpse Grande-Terre bathed in sunshine... as it was logical to think it would be! So once we get to the hotel, at 17:00, we find the right conditions to let the little one have a short swim in the pool... then we go up to the room to get ready for dinner.

At 18:30 I finally meet Daniel: I basically tell him I don't need anything and I only check the information concerning the transfer on the last day from the hotel to the airport. For dinner we go out by car, but we could also have walked, in fact we stop at the very nearby pizzeria Le Mahogany: nothing special, just enough to blunt the pangs of hunger, then we return to the Marifa and, thinking back on the beautiful day just spent (which for Federico was even, at times, exciting!), we soon fall asleep... jet lag is a tough bone to digest... tougher than Caribbean pizza!

Even today, on the third day, getting up early is not a problem, so we take advantage of it and shortly after 7:00 we are having breakfast, like almost all the guests at the Marifa. At 8:00, then, we are already on the road, heading east along the coastal road. We pass St. Anne and arrive, almost at the far eastern tip of the island, at St. François, where we start looking for the port, from which we will presumably set off for a couple of excursions, one of which is fully organised.

After various adventures we find the small tourist harbour and, having parked the car, I set about gathering all the necessary information, so, dazzled by the size of the catamaran Paradoxe, moored at the pier in front of us, I book with it an excursion to the Îles de la Petite-Terre for next Wednesday, 30 April (and thank goodness our stay in Guadeloupe is two weeks, because before then there was no room!), then I manage to get confirmation that from that port, every day, at 8:00, the ferry for the island of La Désirade sets sail. Now everything is clearer and, in short, twice in the near future we will have to "race" to get to this place by 7:30 in the morning, but, I believe, it will be a sacrifice later rewarded. This morning, on the other hand, it's already well past 9:00 when we go to the beach at St.

François, the Plage de Raisins Clairs, a beautiful stretch of light sand lapped by an extraordinary sea, despite being right next to the settlement. Just the time to arrange the towels and the sun goes away... it even starts to rain, but there's no need to worry because it's clearly a passing cloud; indeed no more than ten minutes pass and all the "spotlights" switch back on over the beach and the crystal-clear lagoon in front of us, so we rush into the water to enjoy a fantastic swim... We come back out and dry off, then, with Federico, I go for a walk along the water's edge in search of a coconut, but we're not so lucky and on our return, when, after yet another swim, we have lunch in the shade of a small tree, for fruit we have to make do with the bananas bought at the supermarket...

no matter, because the view in front of us is beautiful, the temperature is pleasant and right now you couldn't wish for anything else. In the early afternoon we set off in search of another beach: we go further north, to the village of Le Moule, to see the nearby Plage de l'Autre Bord, which however is on the more exposed side of the island and doesn't look particularly inviting. So we cut across the interior of Grande-Terre and return to the area around St. Anne to go to the village beach, which is a stretch of shoreline lined with palms and characterised by a particularly calm sea, also due to the presence of some artificial reefs, which vaguely recall our own lidos.

The place is quite crowded and excessively exploited by tourism, but the presence of the most classic and photogenic tropical trees creates particularly suggestive corners and it certainly deserves more than one quick visit. We have a swim and stay until the sun, sinking among the tree fronds, lights up all the beauty of the place, then, with no hurry, we return to the Marifa. Later, after an indispensable shower, we go out for dinner and stop at the Espace Grill, along the road to Gosier. There we eat fish, potatoes and grilled ribs: excellent and good value! Then we return for good to the hotel and file away another positive day in many respects, first and foremost the stunning sea of Guadeloupe.

We set off around 8:00 from the Marifa intending to go to the north of Basse-Terre, where there are a couple of interesting beaches, but when we reach the bridge joining the two main islands of Guadeloupe we notice quite a few clouds hovering right over the one we are heading for... and if there are quite a few already in the morning there's a real risk of facing a bad day. We immediately turn around and change our plans, taking advantage of being in

For the first time we open our eyes thanks to the sound of the alarm clock: a magnificent sun is shining and we head towards the north of Basse-Terre. We leave Pointe-à-Pitre behind us, cross the bridge over the Rivière Salée and venture into that part of the island that we should have seen yesterday. Shortly after the town of Lamentin we turn inland and reach the Domaine de Séverin: an estate where sugarcane is first produced and then rhum. It would be possible to visit it with the help of a little train, but you have to wait forty-five minutes and the thing, to tell the truth, does not inspire us that much, so we take a short walk on foot to just beyond the entrance and then retrace our steps to follow the coastal road. A few kilometers before the village of Sainte-Rose, however, we stop at the Musée du Rhum and, this time, we visit it.

All in all it is interesting, with a route that winds among old tools of the trade and a rich collection of insects from the most varied parts of the world (very beautiful even if completely off-topic), only they do not allow the use of photo and video cameras, which are even confiscated before entering... and who knows what extraordinary and exclusive images we could have captured according to the management of the small yet intransigent Caribbean museum. Before continuing in search of a beach we go to the small port of Sainte-Rose to get information about a possible excursion to the nearby Îlet Caret, but we find everything closed and the fruit of our inquiries, for now, is only a trivial phone number, so we continue along the last stretch of road that, cutting through the interior of the island, takes us to the cove of Grande-Anse, on the northwest coast of Basse-Terre.

We park the car and immediately a Rasta comes towards me, furtively, who despite the heat is wearing a heavy leather jacket: he looks around and asks me if I smoke... I answer no, that I quit six months ago, and he, after a useless attempt to get me to start again, as if nothing had happened, walks away... now everything is clearer and perhaps he was attracted by the conspicuous yellow bandana I am wearing today, because he certainly did not intend to sell me a simple pack of cigarettes! But our favorite drug is called traveling and getting to know new places, like the beautiful beach of Grande-Anse, indeed: all lined with palms, with green mountains behind and marked by a particular golden sand, and not white, because we are in the volcanic part of Guadeloupe.

The sea is inviting and it is very hot, so we stay in the water for a long time seeking refreshment, then, after lunch, we immediately set off with the intention of changing beaches, because at Grande-Anse there are no trees near the water's edge and the only ones, rather distant, are sunk behind a dip in the sandy shore that prevents the breeze coming from the sea from cooling the air, making the temperature almost unbearable. We drive a few kilometers to the nearby Anse de la Perle, which has many characteristics in common with the beach we came from but, this is important, offers us the possibility of staying in the shade of the trees almost at the water's edge, a sea characterized by big waves, with which Federico and I struggle for a long time. The fun for the little one is such that as soon as one swim, lasting an hour, is over, he asks when he can have the next one...

so after a while I indulge him and in the end there is just enough time to dry off before concluding the beach day. On the way back we pass, again, through Sainte-Rose intending to book the excursion to the Îlet Caret, but we find everything still closed: it means that tomorrow we will try to phone, even if it will not be easy to make ourselves understood. Meanwhile, on our right, we notice big clouds dumping water on the center of Basse-Terre and we let ourselves be a little intimidated by the weather conditions in the coming days. We arrive, without rain, at the Marifa and later we go out for dinner at the nearby pizzeria, then we go to an internet café to soothe our meteorological doubts and we breathe a big sigh of relief when we manage to ascertain that no worsening is forecast in the coming days...

so we can return to our room to sleep peacefully, also in anticipation of a day that, tomorrow, will start very early.

It seems we are back to the first mornings, in fact at 6:00 we are already up, but this time the time zone is not to blame. A very intense day awaits us which we begin by having breakfast in the room, since the Marifa cannot offer it before 7:00. At 7:00, however, we are already on the road heading to St. François, from whose tourist port, at 8:00, the ferry to the island of La Désirade will depart: a long and narrow rectangular slab of limestone rock (eleven kilometers by two), inhabited by no more than 1700 souls. It is located ten kilometers east of Guadeloupe and was the first land that Columbus saw after his second Atlantic crossing, when he was by then short of water: hence the "desire to find land" and its name.

The island is, among other things, the least developed and visited of the archipelago and perhaps it is precisely for this reason that it particularly stimulates our curiosity. We are right on time, indeed early, and when we arrive at the pier from which we will set sail we find the motor vessel Colibrì with its engines already running and quite a few passengers already on board, so we buy tickets and get on too, settling, in the open air, at the rear of the vessel. While waiting I call about the excursion to the Îlet Caret: fortunately they also speak Italian and we can understand each other, but they do not give me good news, in fact they are fully booked until May 6, when we will already be back in Italy. Things are getting complicated, but we do not despair: we still have a week at our disposal and we will do everything possible to manage to set foot on that little island.

Meanwhile, soon we will set foot on the soil of La Désirade because the Colibrì has detached from the dock where it was moored and is heading out to sea. As soon as we leave the port and the coral reef we begin to bounce because of the waves and the splashes that result fall pitilessly on us, moreover we cannot change seats because all the others are already occupied. During the half hour of crossing we are thus forced to endure that kind of artificial rain, with the result that we arrive at our destination almost completely wet, but there is no need to dramatize because we are in the tropics and I do not think we will catch a cold. We disembark in the capital, Grande Anse, and immediately we take care to rent two scooters, so as to be able to visit the island in complete freedom.

We load the backpacks and Federico, then we top up with fuel and set off to discover La Désirade, while the beaming smile on the little one's lips is clear proof of his satisfaction with the adventure undertaken. We race along the only paved road and reach the extreme western tip of the island in the locality of Les Galets, where according to the guide there should be the possibility of encountering iguanas. In fact we see some, in addition to the original Tète d'Anglais cactus, which who knows for what strange reason would be called exactly "English Head"? We spend some time on the spot, then we return towards the capital, pass it and proceed briskly, along the coast, passing by the beach of Le Souffleur, where we will probably stop later, and arrive in the village of Baie Mahault, almost at the opposite end of the island.

There we see the ruins of an old cotton factory, with a beautiful cactus in front standing guard... and thinking about it, the top part of the plant vaguely recalls the headgear worn by the British royal guard, and perhaps its strange name derives precisely from that particular!... Who knows? Meanwhile we complete our short visit of La Désirade and go to stop, as planned, at the beach of Le Souffleur. A grove of palms grows in front of a stretch of beautiful sea bounded by the coral reef, where the sand is white and fine as talcum powder: it is a small paradise, where peace and tranquility reign, where the thoughts that pervade the mind are truly few and even fewer are the tourists present. So Federico even manages to find three coconuts, which we will later clean of their outer husk.

Meanwhile we immediately run into the water to enjoy an unforgettable swim, with a view of the palm grove and, farther away, of the mountains, which practically serve as a natural backdrop to the scene. Before noon, with effort but also with satisfaction, I properly prepare the coconuts, then we have lunch with the spectacle kindly offered by mother nature before our eyes, while, to tell the truth, I have a small worry on my mind: the credit card that I left as a deposit for the scooter rental... let's hope they are honest people and do not take advantage of the situation! On departure from St. François this morning, we seemed to understand that the return ferry will sail, from Grande Anse, at 15:45, so, after yet another swim and in any case well in advance, we leave the beach and at 15:00 we are already returning the scooters.

However, we find the rental lady waiting for us, who immediately comes towards us and with big gestures makes us understand that the boat is about to leave!... So suddenly the rush explodes: we leave the keys with the rightful owners, gather all our things and start running towards the pier. Fortunately we find the Colibrì still attached to the dock, but they are already removing the moorings. We get on board and five minutes later we set sail (15:45, probably, was the arrival time, not the departure time!). We really had a close call: if we had taken our time we would never have managed to get on that vessel and would have had to spend the night on the island, but all is well that ends well! On the way back we see the curious flying fish, then, a few minutes before 16:00, we disembark at St. François: there are still at least two hours of sun and we will probably stop at a beach nearby.

We try the Plage de Bois Jolan, shortly before St. Anne, but it was not marked on the guides and rightly so, better to go, sure of the result, directly to the main beach of the town and thus enjoy the last hours of the day, even though there must be a storm around because a bothersome wind has risen and we hope it calms down soon. We wait for the sunset and then we return to the hotel: we got up very early this morning and now the tiredness is beginning to be felt, so we decide to have dinner in the room with a spit-roasted chicken, so as to allow the little one to recharge as soon as possible. It was a fantastic day that we will surely file among those to remember... despite the last vain attempt to book the excursion to the Îlet Caret by phone: tomorrow we will try another route, hoping it is the right one!

The intention would be to spend a whole day in Basse-Terre, in the notoriously rainiest area of Guadeloupe, but when we get up we notice that several clouds are already gathering in that area, so we put together a valid alternative to the plan. Around 8:00 we leave the Marifa heading for Pointe-à-Pitre and a few kilometres before the capital we stop at its Marina, from which, three days a week, a boat departs whose excursion also includes Îlet Caret. The thing is heavily publicised and there should also be good availability of places, but given previous experiences we approach the booking desk rather apprehensively, where we are told, instead, with great relief, that there are no problems and that we only have to choose the day that suits us best...

We choose the first available one, that is tomorrow, because we absolutely do not want to run the risk of missing the chance to see one of the probably most beautiful places in Guadeloupe. We would certainly have liked to do the trip another way (starting from Sainte-Rose), but it wasn't possible and, all in all, we can consider ourselves satisfied to have found this solution. Considerably more relieved, we take the road to Basse-Terre again, but near the bridge that joins the two islands we realise that the clouds in front of us are really too many for it to be only 9:00 in the morning... and, normally, the situation can only get worse. So we trigger the valid alternative: we go back to Grande-Terre and, heading for the far north of the latter, we pass through the towns of Morne-à-l'Eau and Anse Bertrand until we reach the site known as Pointe de la Grande Vigie.

A rocky promontory juts into the Caribbean Sea creating highly evocative scenery and a path winds along the top of the dizzying cliffs, while the sea foams some tens of metres below. On the clearest days (not today) the view stretches into the distance as far as the islands of Antigua and Montserrat. So we spend a good half hour walking among the cliffs, admiring the at times breathtaking panorama, then we go back to the car and begin to follow the coastal road that descends along the eastern coast of Grande-Terre. In this way we reach another scenic spot: the one that, from the top of the cliffs, commands the view over the so-called Porte d'Enfer. It is a sort of Caribbean fjord, inside which the waters are particularly calm, while outside great waves break on the rocks that mark its entrance... hence probably the name Porte d'Enfer ("Gate of Hell"... a hell clearly made of water).

We stop for a while in the inlet: we take a swim and after lunch we set off again towards the south, following the coastline at some distance, then turn once more towards the sea at about the middle of the eastern side of the island, until we reach the remote Anse Maurice. The new beach is nothing exceptional, but it can't be dismissed either (after all, they can't all be beautiful!). So we stop and spend the rest of the afternoon in complete relaxation, with the little one playing, Sabrina reading her book and me enjoying myself making a bracelet with squill roots (not palm), similar to the one offered by a local to Federico a few days earlier, then we take one last swim and, shortly before 18:00, we head for the hotel.

Near Morne-à-l'Eau we take a secondary road that, cutting through the hills, in the Guadeloupe countryside, should allow us to shorten the route considerably, but darkness is falling and we soon lose our bearings, and on top of that there's a strange smell of petrol... better to give up: we turn around and go back to Morne-à-l'Eau so that we can follow the safer itinerary that passes through Pointe-à-Pitre. At 19:00 we are at the Marifa and later we go out for dinner at the Espace Grill, then we go straight back to the room: the days are good for getting up early, but just as early comes sleep... meanwhile another day has passed, definitely a positive one and, on the whole, the holiday is slipping away in the best possible way.

If, by any chance, they imposed it on us at home, we would probably fly into a rage, but here in Guadeloupe, getting up at 6:30 has become almost a normal routine event. We have breakfast and shortly after 7:00 we are already on the road because the long-awaited excursion to Îlet Caret is finally waiting for us! The distance to cover by car is not much and there is plenty of time, but, as usual, the traffic is slowed down towards Pointe-à-Pitre and on top of that we waste time because of a local girl who today decided to test, with her Clio, the resistance of the rear bumper of our Punto (nothing serious fortunately, because we were practically stopped). Despite everything, at 8:30, a quarter of an hour before necessary, we are on the pier of the Marina, from where, at 9:00, the boat King Papirus should set sail, currently moored at the quay and on which we are about to board.

At 9:05 we leave the port and set out to sea in the company, at most, of about thirty other people, and we are few because the boat can hold almost two hundred... better this way: we'll be more comfortable and Federico will be able to run around freely. We follow the coastline westwards, pass through the centre of Pointe-à-Pitre (where the market is) and then go into the Rivière Salée, the narrow channel that separates the two main islands, passing among other things under that same bridge we have crossed more than once in recent days. Having thus also satisfied the little one's curiosity about that strange underpass, we then proceed quickly between two banks of thick mangroves, in which several species of birds generally nest, and regain the sea, which in this area is particularly calm and flat, protected as it is by the coral reef and sheltered from the trade winds.

Shortly before 11:00 we arrive at Îlet Caret: a tiny handkerchief of sandy land dotted with palms that lies several thousand metres off the north-eastern coast of Basse-Terre and close to one of the largest coral reefs in the Caribbean. The King Papirus stops a short distance from the water's edge and we disembark onto that little paradise, where sky and sea do not touch but brush against each other, interspersed by a thin white line and a masterly patch of green: when mother nature manages to blend, with such harmony, the primordial elements at her disposal there is no escape and one is immediately captivated by the sublime result that springs from it and by the sight of so much beauty.

We immediately run into the water to enjoy one of those swims that will remain forever in the memory, and meanwhile we keep looking around: absurdly, it almost hurts to blink and deprive yourself for an instant of that dream landscape. We also explore the shallow seabed surrounding the island, but there are no coral formations in the immediate vicinity and this all comes at the expense of the fish life, which is decidedly scarce. We still manage to find some splendid starfish that we photograph and then carefully put back in their habitat. Shortly after midday we are offered an original aperitif on the seashore, then at 13:00 we get on the King Papirus for lunch, but we stay there as little as possible because we go back as soon as we can to bask in the extraordinary reflections of the sea.

Perhaps it's also the effect of the punch, but it feels like living a dream with open eyes: the sun, which has moved behind us, now enhances the view of the crystal-clear water against the backdrop of the little island fringed with palms... it's fantastic!... almost unreal!... like the object flying just above the tops of the trees (a module 770 or a shed, depending on your point of view... but Sabrina hasn't drunk the punch!). Around 14:00 the siren of the King Papirus sounds in the air: we must, much to our regret, return on board and leave Îlet Caret... So, shortly afterwards, while we sail towards the Rivière Salée, I keep my gaze fixed on the island as it recedes and Sabrina asks me if I've lost something... "Yes," I answer her in my mind, "a little piece of my heart... but by now I've left so many scattered around the world!".

We are all extremely enthusiastic about how the excursion went and we proceed sailing to the rhythm of Caribbean music as far as the Marina of Pointe-à-Pitre, where we dock a few minutes after 16:00. We do some shopping in a little shop near the landing stage and then go to St. Anne, to the Plage de la Caravelle, where we meet the bracelet character again and where we wait for the sun to set to worthily close the curtain on a day that is, to say the least, memorable. Later we return to the same town also for dinner and, recalling the fabulous scenery of Îlet Caret, we spend a pleasant evening, by the sea, at the Koleur Kreol restaurant.

We are truly insatiable: the alarm clock, in fact, this morning rings even a few minutes before 6:00, because another excursion awaits us and we have to be, again, in St. François by 7:30, to board the catamaran Paradoxe which will take us to discover the Îles de la Petite-Terre: a tiny archipelago located a few kilometres off the south-eastern coast of Grande-Terre and made up of two main islands (Terre-de-Basse and Terre-de-Haut), plus a few isolated rocks. The fuel reserve warning light has been on for a while, but I ignore it so as not to run the risk of arriving late, mindful of what happened a year ago in St. Martin precisely with the departure of the catamaran... this time, instead, we arrive perfectly on time, in fact we are the first to board! The day is a bit windy, but the sun is shining when we set out to sea, around 8:00, leaving the port of St. François behind us.

We immediately begin to ride big waves, while, on the right, the motor vessel Colibrì bound for La Désirade overtakes us (with the passengers at the back already wet from the inevitable splashes). It takes more than two hours of sailing to reach the destination, during which it feels like being on a roller coaster, but it is definitely worth it. We realise this when we enter the crystal-clear lagoon between Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Basse, disembarking right on the magnificent beach of the latter, all of very white sand and fringed with the inevitable palm grove, under which we settle before immediately running into the water.

So, while Sabrina, limited by an annoying stiff neck, enjoys a normal swim (if normal can be called, considering the beauty of the place), Federico and I put on masks and snorkels and go exploring the coral reef in front of the bay: we see numerous fish and we stay for a long time chasing them in an attempt to take some photos, so time passes and in no time it's midday. We have lunch in the shade of the palms, with the magnificent colours of the sea before our eyes and the breath of the trade wind caressing our faces: it feels divine, especially when, having finished eating, we go back into the water to be lulled by the waves and almost miss the departure for a short walk on the island.

We join the group at the last minute and follow the catamaran's captain, who has for the occasion stepped into the role of tour guide: we can thus see, besides the lighthouse that Federico likes so much, the low vegetation typical of a rather arid climate, among which some iguanas hide, and they even let you get relatively close. Then we reach the side of the island most exposed to the action of the winds and characterised by high cliffs on which the ocean waves crash forcefully. We walk for more than half an hour under the sun and come back rather hot, but it's not a problem, it's just an excellent excuse to dive back into the delicious stretch of water facing the palm grove and stay there the whole time, until, little by little, our travel companions return to the boat, then, without haste, we follow them.

Shortly before 16:00, placidly, we set out to sea leaving the Îles de la Petite-Terre behind us, with the view stretching ahead of us over Grande-Terre and all of Guadeloupe, to the left over the island of Marie-Galante and to the right over La Désirade, while beneath the hull, then, flow the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and above our heads we have the clear Caribbean sky. The swell, moreover, has notably weakened compared to the morning and it is a real pleasure to sail in silence for the two hours that separate us from the port of St. François, where we arrive, in the warm light of sunset, around 18:00. Calmly we return to the Marifa and later we go out for dinner at the Baobab restaurant of the Hotel Toubana, near St. Anne, where we eat fish and lobster, thus worthily putting an end to another magnificent day.

After two whole days spent at sea, with the excursions to Îlet Caret and the Îles de la Petite-Terre, we decide to dedicate one entirely to the land, and when one speaks of land, as the highest expression of this element, in Guadeloupe one speaks, obviously, of Basse-Terre, dominated by the imposing silhouette of the La Soufrière volcano, still considered active. Shortly after 8:00 we leave the Marifa and having reached Pointe-à-Pitre, half an hour later, we cross the usual bridge over the Rivière Salée, once again setting foot (or wheel) on the island of Basse-Terre. We then travel along the already familiar Route de la Traversée and arrive at the sea at about two thirds of the western coast, beginning to follow the coastal road in a southerly direction.

We pass the locality of Malendure, with Îlet Pigeon in front of us, and arrive, after an endless series of bends, in the village of Vieux-Habitants, where the small Musée du Café is located, which however we decide not to visit. We pass on and, in a short time, we reach the town of Basse-Terre, capital of the island of the same name as well as the administrative capital of the whole of Guadeloupe, despite having less than a third of the inhabitants of Pointe-à-Pitre. Here too, however, there is nothing interesting to visit and we have already covered several kilometres, which is why Federico is beginning to show signs of restlessness. Fortunately, however, it is precisely from Basse-Terre that one begins to climb towards the summit of the La Soufrière volcano, the highest peak of the archipelago with its 1457 metres... and the little one immediately seems more attentive and interested.

The road, with at times absurd gradients, climbs up the side of the mountain crossing stretches of rainforest and ends in the car park called La Savane à Mulet, at an altitude of 1142 metres. From there one should see, in all its impressiveness, the terminal part of the volcano which, instead, as often happens, is hidden by clouds. It is also quite cold, so we wrap up roughly before starting to climb along the path that in a little more than an hour leads to the summit. The ground is very uneven and the landscape, at times in the sun and at times among the clouds, pervaded as it often is by the unpleasant smell of sulphur, appears almost unreal and Dante-esque.

We walk, uphill, to about halfway along the route, then we decide to go down: Federico actually would like to continue and reach the top, but it doesn't seem advisable because higher up you end up completely inside the clouds and in the afternoon at least another walk awaits us. We retrace the path and return to the car park, then descend to sea level as far as Basse-Terre, also finding a more Caribbean temperature again. From there we resume following the coastal road, which, shortly afterwards, rounds the southernmost point of Guadeloupe. Climbing back north we stop for lunch at the beach of Grande-Anse: the sea, here particularly rough, is not beautiful, but the sandy shore, all of black sand as black as pitch and flanked by large palms, is truly special, with the added silhouette of the nearby islands of Les Saintes shaping the horizon.

It is very hot, instead, when, shortly before 14:00, we take the road again and cover the few kilometres that separate us from the village of Trois-Riviéres, where the Parc Archéologique des Roches Gravées is located, established to safeguard some rocks on which are carved some petroglyphs made by the Arawak Indians, ancient inhabitants of the island. But today, the first of May, the workers are celebrated in Guadeloupe too and the park is closed... a shame because I don't think we'll even have the chance to return there before the end of the trip. We continue to follow the coastline northwards, until, near the village of Saint Sauveur, we turn left and climb again towards the volcano, while the fuel begins to run low and the reserve warning light comes on (nothing serious if we hadn't already come across several petrol stations closed because of the aforementioned holiday).

We also go back under the clouds before arriving at the car park where the road ends, but it isn't raining, so we can quietly tackle the path that, passing through the dense tropical forest, reaches, in about half an hour, the second of the three Chutes du Carbet waterfalls, the easiest to reach and, perhaps, the most spectacular, with its one hundred and ten metres of height. We stay for a while watching it from below, hopping from one stone to another among the little streams of water (some of which are warm!) that flow all around its base, then we take the path which, on the way back, is all uphill: there are more than three hundred steps to tackle and it is a real relief at the end to be able to sit comfortably in the car.

The road that returns to the coast, instead, is all downhill and so we save a lot of fuel, while we begin to cross an area characterised by banana plantations as far as the eye can see. Shortly before the town of Capesterre-Belle-Eau we travel along the scenic stretch of road nicknamed Allée Dumanoir, flanked by two rows of very tall and elegant royal palms, then, finally, we find an open petrol station so, after a providential top-up, we can breathe a sigh of relief. By now it is too late to reach a good beach (besides, it was planned that today we wouldn't go to the sea) but it is also too early to return to base, so we stop for a short visit to the Valombreuse Floral Parc: a botanical garden, to tell the truth, quite unkempt which however offered us the chance to see (at liberty) a nice hummingbird.

At 17:30 we leave the park and shortly afterwards we travel quickly along the motorway that runs towards Pointe-à-Pitre. We have the impression of returning from an expedition, because it has been an intense day and, at times, tiring, but it was worth living in many respects (a shame only about the petroglyphs)... and all in all, considering the characteristics of the area, the weather conditions were also good. After covering 220 kilometres roaming around Guadeloupe, some minutes after 18:00, we arrive at the Marifa. We take a shower and then go out for dinner at the pizzeria La Rome des Îles, in the Marina of Pointe-à-Pitre, then, very tired but happy, we return to the room to enjoy a well-earned rest.

We still have two days left to spend in Guadeloupe, two days we would like to dedicate almost entirely to its splendid sea. So we get up with the intention of going to Îlet du Gosier, a handkerchief of land located a few hundred metres off the southern coast of Grande-Terre. However, just the amount of time needed for breakfast passes, and the sky becomes almost completely covered with clouds. The trade wind is blowing and, in theory, the weather conditions should not worsen further, nevertheless we believe it is not worth spending the whole day on a small island and we swap today's programme with the one planned for tomorrow. So we head east, trusting in the fact that, at any moment of the day, if the clouds decide to open up, they will probably do so starting from that very point of the compass. Along the way we would like to stop in St.

Anne to visit a craft market, but the little shops that make it up are still largely closed, so we keep covering kilometres and reach St. François, from where we then take the road that, in a short time, takes us to Pointe des Châteaux, the easternmost point of Guadeloupe. We park the car where the strip of asphalt ends and, on foot, we set off to climb the rocky promontory in front of us, on which stands an enormous cross, while, as hoped, the sun comes out forcefully. We climb the 145 steps that lead to the panoramic point, from which the view stretches over two seas: on the right the Atlantic Ocean and on the left the Caribbean Sea, with the unmistakable silhouette of La Désirade in front. We enjoy the spectacle then go down with the intention of going, this time, to the sea, since fortunately the sky shows ever wider areas of clear weather.

We go to the nearby Anse Tarare, which is located on the northern side of the promontory and is reached first by means of a dirt track and then by walking for a few minutes along a path through the vegetation. The beach, with light sand and stupendous water, is however the unchallenged kingdom of the nudists of Guadeloupe whose presence, naturally, does not disturb us... what does considerably annoy us instead is knowing that we disturb them, especially when, intending to film the place with the video camera, we are incredibly stopped by a gentleman... as handsome and likeable as his dangling genitals! The sandy shore is a marvel, and it is also very sheltered, too much so: in the water it feels great but outside there is no wind and the temperature is almost unbearable, so, after a brief underwater exploration, we have lunch and then go elsewhere.

Dripping with sweat we cover a few hundred metres, perhaps a kilometre, and then turn towards the sea, on the same side of the promontory, to reach Anse à la Gourde: less scenic than Anse Tarare, but with the same crystal-clear water, without nudists and, above all, swept by a pleasant breeze. It is exactly the place we were looking for: we set up camp, take a long cooling swim and then stay to enjoy the warm Caribbean sun carefree, until, around 18:00, while a characteristic ox-drawn cart passes along the beach and, at the same time, sunset approaches, we head without haste towards the hotel. Before arriving at the Marifa we also stop at the craft market of St.

Anne (which this time is closing down) and buy a couple of T-shirts, then later, after getting properly settled, we go out for dinner and go, again, to the Marina of Pointe-à-Pitre: we like the place and it is a real shame not to have discovered it earlier. Among the various little restaurants along the quay of the small port, this evening we choose Le Sextante, where we eat good fish and lobster, before putting the very tired Federico to bed and thus concluding another (the umpteenth) positive day.

At the sound of the alarm I get up to draw back the curtains: today too, on the last full day we will spend in Guadeloupe, a magnificent sun is shining and there is a very good chance it will do so until evening... Not bad: twelve days of sun and only two hours of clouds (yesterday morning)... We can thus shout to the sky all our satisfaction and at the same time thank it for such clemency. We get up a little more calmly than usual and go for breakfast when it is already past 7:30. Nothing serious because today we have very little road to cover: that is, the ten kilometres or so that separate us from the town of Gosier. We wait on the tiny pier facing the aforementioned town centre, from where, shortly before 9:00, the boat service that allows you to reach Îlet du Gosier begins, a sliver of land located only six hundred metres from the coast.

In a few minutes of sailing we thus land on another little tropical island, perhaps a little too exploited, because it is very close to the most touristy area of Guadeloupe, and perhaps not even very well looked after, given its fame, but still pretty. We settle in the shade of a squill when the place is still practically deserted and we immediately run into the water to enjoy the splendid sea (a few hundred metres further out there is also a decent coral reef). Around 10:00, however, the King Papirus arrives on the island, the boat that accompanied us to Îlet Caret, today probably hired by a disco (NRJ), with whose name it is completely plastered. It is packed with young locals who have every intention of partying... and when they come down onto the beach they put an end to the quiet that had reigned unchallenged until that moment.

We have lunch and consume the last of the four coconuts we had found in recent days, then, around 15:00, we leave Îlet du Gosier. We get back in the car and reach St. Anne, because we want to conclude the visit of Guadeloupe where we had begun it twelve days ago... at Plage de la Caravelle. Thus the last hours of this trip slip away pleasantly: we take a swim and then I enjoy myself making bracelets, while the "master" of this art arrives and when he sees me he comes to compliment me, then the sun sets masterfully among the palms and goes, in practice, to close the curtain on the holiday. A holiday that, instead, we want to enjoy to the full and for dinner we eat shark steak and lobster at the La Rose des Vents restaurant, in the pretty Marina of Pointe-à-Pitre, then we go to the room to sleep: tomorrow morning the suitcases to pack await us, the car to hand in and all that follows...

because Italy, our cross and delight, is waiting for us with open arms.

The alarm clock rings at the same time as on other mornings: not that there is anything particular to do, indeed there is plenty of time because we won't leave until the early afternoon, but there are many small tasks to sort out and we would also like to spend a bit of time by the pool. After breakfast, more out of curiosity than anything else, we go to see the Plage de Petite Havre, the closest to the Marifa... nothing exceptional, especially compared to what we have seen up to today. We set off again immediately and, after a small but necessary shopping trip, we leave Sabrina at the Marifa, while Federico and I go to the Sixt in Bas-du-Fort to hand in the car. It's Sunday and we find everything closed, so I phone the head office for instructions, but when they propose taking the car to the branch at the airport I object forcefully and we agree to leave the keys at the hotel reception.

There is only one small detail: the car has been on reserve for a while and we have no intention of putting in any more petrol, so we cover the ten kilometres that separate us from the Marifa barely touching the accelerator pedal. In the end, however, with relief, we park the car and hand over the keys (in Guadeloupe we covered a good 1250 kilometres). We also take the opportunity to settle the hotel bill (which consists only of the tourist tax) and then go up to the room to Sabrina, who in the meantime has finished packing the first suitcase. We will complete the second one later instead because right now we want to go to the pool to have a few swims and enjoy the last warm rays of Caribbean sun.

A little more than two hours pass quickly and in no time at all it's midday, so we go up to the room again: we have lunch, take a shower, close all the bags and a few minutes before 14:00 we are already, in "civilian clothes", comfortably seated at reception waiting for the minibus that will take us to the airport. We hand in the room keys and, punctually, a quarter of an hour later the vehicle arrives thanks to which, already before 15:00, we present ourselves in the departures hall of the Guadeloupe international airport. We face a very long queue to check in the bags, but it's not a problem because after all we mainly have to kill the time remaining until take-off. Then, to get past the check-in, they also make us completely empty the backpack to check its contents and, patiently, we have to repack it before finally arriving in the waiting lounge.

We have just, just enough time to enjoy an ice cream, then the announcer announces the boarding of our flight from gate number three. The operations needed to properly settle all the passengers inside the gigantic Air France Boeing 747 are, as usual, rather laborious but in the end, slightly late, at 17:30, flight Af 621 takes off bound for Paris... goodbye Guadeloupe! In a short time we climb above the clouds and leave the Caribbean behind us, then, setting the hands of the clock forward by six hours, just as quickly...

Midnight has just passed and the sun is still shining, as if we were at the North Cape... but, of course, ours is a virtual midnight. The real one, instead, we are racing towards and, it too, very quickly arrives, marked by a beautiful starry sky and a tiny sliver of moon. The distance to cover is a lot, but the hours pass little by little until, through the window, we notice the first lights of dawn over Europe. It is a dawn characterised by many clouds that thin out only for a moment, letting us glimpse the French coast, then we descend in altitude and dive inside them, emerging only a few hundred metres from the ground, now in sight of Orly airport, where we land, without problems, at 7:22. One certainly cannot say that the weather in Paris is good: in fact when we leave the airport it is raining and the thirty degrees of Guadeloupe are only a distant memory.

We transfer by bus from Orly to Charles de Gaulle and it takes almost an hour, twice as long as on the way there: that had also been a Monday, but Easter Monday (so a holiday) and the traffic conditions were quite another thing. Once we arrive at the main airport of the French capital we check in the bags and face a very long queue to get through the metal detector, at the end of which a security officer asks to be able to open Federico's backpack, taking out from inside the "deadly" plastic boomerang which, apparently, is considered a dangerous object... It is simply absurd, because it is only a toy!... But even the security manager does not give authorisation to let it through and we have to leave it with them (in reality it has already passed, without problems, three other times on this trip).

We take ten steps and, naturally, the little one starts crying, so I take him by the hand and go back with him to ask for the return of the ill-gotten goods, but there is nothing to be done: we absolutely have to give it up! We queue up to board, from gate number 72, flight Az 365 and meanwhile the security officer arrives, probably devoured by guilt, and gives the boomerang back to Federico... It was an incredible story... it ended well, but absolutely one to tell! Almost an hour late, at 11:30, the Alitalia Md-80 takes off bound for Bologna, while the adverse weather conditions continue to rage and France is, practically, under a single cloud mass. Sabrina and Federico almost immediately give in to the temptation to take a nap then, later, we have lunch.

Meanwhile, below us, finally, land is visible: they are the snow-covered Alps and, shortly afterwards, here is Italy completely free of clouds. The plane begins to descend slowly in altitude and touches down, at Bologna's Marconi Airport, at 13:00 exactly. We collect our bags safe and sound and shortly afterwards we are outside hugging the grandparents. We immediately set off towards Forlì and, chatting about this and that regarding the holiday, at 13:45 we enter the motorway, to exit it, at Faenza, at 14:20, after a short queue due to roadworks, then, less than twenty minutes later, at 14:39, we are in front of the gate of our home to put an end to another fantastic trip. We have thus "captured" another pearl of that imaginary necklace of islands that frames the Caribbean Sea to the east...

many still remain, but just as great is our desire to travel and, who knows, perhaps one day we will be able to say we have ideally conquered, in its entirety, that coveted treasure.