Hong Kong

One of the experiences you shouldn't give up once you arrive in Kowloon is the crossing of Victoria Harbour aboard a Star Ferry.

These ferries, by now historic, since they began operating more than a century ago, constantly shuttle between the Sha Tsui pier, Central and Wan Chai. (Photo 1) Not only is the crossing economically advantageous, since it costs very little, but it's also very evocative. These white and green ferries, old wooden barges, clash with and enliven the elegant and modern skyline of prestigious Hong Kong.

However outdated they may seem, they are extremely efficient; being able to be steered from both ends, they dock and set off continuously, so there are no crossings to wait for; anyone in Kowloon can go to the pier, wait a few minutes and set off for Central.

During the crossing, observing the views, especially from the upper deck, is a pleasure for people's eyes, and the journey lasts only about ten minutes. (Photo 2)

Once you arrive at Central you understand why this place is considered the symbol (especially the economic one) of Hong Kong, enjoying a spectacular introduction to the most elegant and expensive area of the zone. (Photo 3) Dozens of administrative buildings crowd everywhere, at their feet imposing road arteries dominated by cars and crowds in constant movement, and in this large network that governs Central, small alleys of grey dwellings, improvised shops, myriads of stalls remain imprisoned...

Right next to the pier is Jardine House, one of the tallest buildings, built in the 1970s, home to the most important Asian stock exchange outside Japan (Stock Exchange of Hong Kong).

Walking along Connaught Road you're struck by the sense of grandeur that this slice of life offers; everything is amplified, lights, chaos, continuous crowds, but as you proceed you realise, without noticing, that the atmosphere very gradually becomes more and more relaxed.

Once you reach Central Market you can decide to continue and cut right across Central by going up the world's longest escalator (2600 feet), landing in the heart of the Mid-Levels, or stroll through the alleys that cross the entire district. (Photo 4) Up to the Peak it's an alternation of scenes of urban life, passing from administrative skyscrapers to residential apartment blocks, from luxurious flats to the green hills that frame Central...all enlivened by markets, stalls, alleys, caged in and soul of the inner streets.

Every winding street you meet from Central to the Mid-Levels has its own history and its own peculiarities; it's possible to spend a whole day visiting them without ever getting bored; there are elegant streets like Hollywood Road, full of shops selling medicines and medicinal herbs like Graham Street, chaotic with markets like Gage Street, in each one naturally the unavoidable aromas of roasted skewers and stir-fried noodles are released, a common element of this strange but effective combination of ancient and modern. (Photo 5)

Simona Salini

USEFUL INFORMATION: Travelling on the Star Ferry costs HK$2.20; you put the coins in a box at the entrance in order to go down the ramp and board. On the Star Ferry it's advisable to go up to the upper deck; the views are better and you're not overwhelmed by the diesel stench. The escalator is an experience worth recommending; in 20 minutes you cross the whole of Central, you can get off and on anywhere, and once it ends you walk down. It has no cost. From 6 to 10 it runs downwards, afterwards always upwards until 10 in the evening.