The Buddhist monks

Luang Prabang is not only enchanting for its temples and its colourful tourist centre; this Laotian city has traditions and cultures to admire and respect. (Photo 1)

At half past five in the morning I get up and leave the hotel, walking towards the main street, ready to witness the “Tak Bat”, the morning ceremony of the Buddhist monks.

I walk along the river, the sound of the waters flowing slowly, the mist embraces sky and earth, everything blurs into an image with ill-defined outlines. (Photo 2)

The streets are dark, deserted, wrapped in fog that distorts their real appearance; the place is far from the noisy and lively atmosphere that lights up during the daytime hours… in the corners I glimpse some shapes, seated women, hushed voices; they are the street vendors, waiting to begin their work, arranging their modest merchandise, bananas and rice in wicker baskets, everything carefully laid out on old racks worn by time, resting on the pavement.

As soon as some women see me they come closer, offering me their goods, showing me where to sit, where to wait for the rite to begin.

The night darkness clears little by little, a soft light lets me glimpse people, the first tourists, curious like me to take part in the ritual that wakes Luang Prabang every day, but also locals, ready to confirm to the monks how important their presence is.

The vendors are now moving, walking fast in search of new buyers, offering fruit, rice, explaining how this is an important offering for the monks.

My gaze moves in search of the orange robes, the wait is silent, the pavements are covered by a series of worn mats. (Photo 3)

The first orange patches appear in the distance, at first disordered, then silent and fluid they come closer, giving life to a single composed line that, slowly, heads towards us. (Photo 4)

A row of shaved heads, bare feet and serious eyes passes through, the first hands rise to give some offering, the monks, ready, uncover their golden containers, which begin to open and close… the movement is punctuated by the prayers whispered by the religious, a litany that accompanies the whole rite. (Photo 5)

The gazes and the hands do not meet, it's impossible to read the monks' thoughts; the ritual nature of the gestures shows how much the celebration has by now become a daily appointment repeated and known by everyone. (Photo 6)

Other monks join the first ones, coming from other directions, other streets, a numerous people parading and praying; among the large crowd that takes part and the one that parades, sad figures stand out, emaciated children dressed in rags, pleading or detached eyes, sometimes accompanied by mothers or women of an unnatural thinness, holding large black sacks; they open them before the monks, the mute request to share with them the modest alms…

The street vendors are ready and quick to provide new food to the tourists and generous offerers, walking swiftly from one side of the street to the other, precious extras in this ritual.

The street livens up again, the long line moves away as silently as it arrived, the monks go into the side streets, then disappear from view.

The crowd disperses, each person walks away with their own memory, taking up the threads of the day, which seems to have officially begun.

I return to the hotel… retracing the same street, and yet it has already changed, the air is clear and the river is enlivened by many people, children playing in the water, women doing the laundry, tourist boats, fishermen… everything resumes its course… (Photo 7)

Simona Salini

INTERESTING FACTS:

* The Tak Bat begins around 6 every morning; you can take part from any part of the city, you just have to wait along one of the central streets of Luang Prabang and wait for the monks to arrive; * Before the morning ritual begins it's good to provide yourself with some offering to give to the monks, fruit and rice, which you can buy on the spot from the vendors; for those not intending to make any offering, it's good to observe with due respect;