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TUNISIA · Africa

Egypt 2007 (Part One and Part Nine)

CACarlo ·27 photographs ·22 Feb 2007 – 7 Apr 2007 ·45 days
Where
· La Goulette, Metameur, Sidi Bou Said, Cartagine
When
22 Feb 2007 – 7 Apr 2007
45 days · trip of 2007
Who
Carlo Ranzani · @Carlo · Majano (UD)
How
Travel diary
The story · 10 days

This trip was decided in the space of 24 hours: this year we had decided to spend New Year's Eve in Spain and in January do a tour from Barcelona to Seville with some friends from Turin, and in the summer Great Britain; unfortunately after the New Year's party we had to rush home, alerted by our neighbour, because of a gas leak that required the Fire Brigade to intervene; on our return, after fixing the fault, it was impossible to resume the original trip and rejoin the friends who had continued the journey on their own. By chance Tina, my wife, reads in Plein Air an advert from a couple of campers who were organising a trip to Egypt, immediately the phone call, immediately the programme sent, immediately the affirmative reply and straight away the purchase of maps, guides and research of information about the trip, all in 24 hours.

We're ready………… off we go!!!! Schizzo doesn't quite agree, but then he gets used to it.

The camper's fuel consumption was 8.65 km per litre of diesel; considering the roads and the temperatures, I think it wasn't excessive.

General expenses:

- Diesel…………………….€ 371.00

- Souvenirs…………………. 334.00 - Restaurant……………….. 138.00 - Campsites/Parking… 56.00 - Museum/site entries. 90.00 - Ferries…………………. 1037.00 - Motorway………………. 53.00 - Tips…………………….. 150.00 - Maps……………………. 34.00 - Passport stamps……….. 81.00 - Package for visas/guides Assistance/escort and bus 2850.00

TOTAL…………………..€ 5194.00

Groceries…………………. 568.00

TOTAL…………………..€ 5762.00

Day 122 Feb 2007

Caorso – Autogrill – 0/372 – good weather

We set off around 11, this night I had one of my usual colic attacks that kept me from sleeping, motorway as usual busy, now we're stopped at a service area, it seems fairly quiet, tomorrow morning we'll be in Genoa. Careless, as usual, I lost the diesel cap again, for now I've closed it with a rag and some duct tape, tomorrow I'll see about fitting a makeshift cap found at the petrol station.

Genoa old harbor: pier, ships and towers under cloudy sky
Genoa old harbor: pier, ships and towers under cloudy sky
Day 223 Feb 2007

Genova – Port Car Park – 187/559 – good weather

Arrived in Genoa in the late morning, straight away looking for a garage to tighten the fan belt which, new when we set off, had loosened, after much wandering we found it near the Staglieno cemetery, unfortunately it was midday and we had to wait for the afternoon reopening, ten minutes of repair and we set off again straight away for the port, we're the first, no one from our group has arrived yet, we'll meet them tomorrow morning.

Four passengers sitting on a wooden bench on a ferry deck
Four passengers sitting on a wooden bench on a ferry deck
Day 324 Feb 2007

Genova – Kartage Ferry - 0/559 – rainy weather

Morning spent waiting, the other participants in the trip arrive one by one, we get to know the newcomers, at first glance they seem nice people and experienced in this kind of travel, …..not rookies…….., in the afternoon after an endless queue we board the ship last, after us they close the ramps, connecting to the power with the Schuko plug, as there aren't sockets for everyone they had to make castles with plugs and double plugs, anyway everyone got power, departure at 18.00 behind the scheduled time, finally in the cabin we took a refreshing shower. Dinner with broth and steak with a side of buttered pasta, a little piece of cheese and a stale dessert. All to bed enthusiastic about this new adventure

Group of people having lunch in the Nav Glovera ferry dining room
Group of people having lunch in the Nav Glovera ferry dining room
Day 425 Feb 2007

Hammamet – Gas Station Parking – 50/609 - good weather

Quiet night, calm sea, breakfast (from 7 to 9) good. Morning dedicated to customs formalities, unlike last time, it will be done on board and no longer on land, Tina is already in the queue to carry out the various procedures, but Luisa takes it upon herself to do it for everyone, unfortunately when handing over the documents, we're missing the driving permit, the office is now closed, it will have to be done on land. TIP: before leaving the vehicle take your passports and the registration document with you, they'll be needed to do customs. Lunch at 11.30: Tunisian style, couscous with fish and small vegetables, I've eaten better.

Expected arrival at 15.30, the cabin must be vacated by 15, punctually with bags and baggage we present ourselves at the top of the stairs, a wait that will drag on until 16.30, the cat shut in its cage couldn't take any more, followed by the chaos of hundreds of people crowding to reach the hold where the vehicles are arranged on the various decks, fortunately having boarded last we're the first to disembark in reverse. Tina presents herself at the counter for the missing document and in no time we're out of customs, last time we did it all in more than three hours, better this way!! We gather at the exit of the customs at La Goulette and head for the motorway, after filling up we're now stopped in a car park, a toast, offered by Tony, for the arrival in Africa, then all to dinner with the agreement to leave at 7 tomorrow morning.

White arch and palm trees in a square at sunset
White arch and palm trees in a square at sunset
Day 526 Feb 2007

Tunisia/Libya Border – Police Car Park – 522/1131 - overcast/sun 22°/rain

Departure at 7 o'clock, today is a transfer stage, still a bit of motorway then we take the main road to Tripoli, along the way we notice many olive groves and fruit plantations, small characteristic villages with many little carts pulled by donkeys and very few tractors, along the road we notice many sheep hanging from a hook: slaughtered and skinned, still dripping blood, to then be cut into pieces and cooked over embers, this macabre spectacle is unfortunately one of their religious customs, the animal to be eaten must be killed in this way and in no other way. Before lunch Tony uncorks another bottle of Prosecco, not to be outdone I offer my Tocai, strictly in a plastic bottle for ease of stowing and disposing of the empty.

This evening after Bir Qirdan and after various checkpoints we reach the border, settled in a square in front of it we wait for morning to do customs and meet the Libyan escort that will take us to the border with Egypt, after dinner Luisa knocks on our door and warns us that the police don't want us to stop in that place: we have to go back, we set off again but we don't go back as far as indicated, at a checkpoint they allow us to stop for the night, safer than that!!!!............. we even have a guard.

While we're returning from the border, unfortunately, a small accident: a car after overtaking and suddenly swerving back in because of an oncoming car, hits one of our campers fortunately without any damage, unfortunately it happens every time, when it's dark in these countries it's better not to drive around, there are always drivers going around without any sense, ……..it went well………., but what happened to us in Turkmenistan could have happened, when I went off the road with considerable damage. ADVICE: don't travel at night

CONTINUES IN "EGYPT 2007" PART TWO

Motorhomes parked under a eucalyptus tree at dawn, a woman walks by
Motorhomes parked under a eucalyptus tree at dawn, a woman walks by
Day 63 Apr 2007

Metameur – 300/10716 – Private parking – cloudy/sunny

Continued from "Egypt 2007" Part Eight

Departure at 7, we go to Sabratha with its Roman ruins; many in the group visit this very interesting site; we have already seen it and we rest; Tina takes the opportunity to buy some rugs in a small shop where the seller speaks Italian perfectly, having been in Italy for several years. We set off again at 15; during the journey, unfortunately, a stone thrown, I can't say whether by a person or by a car, broke the corner pane of my windshield: I heard a bang and a cloud of splinters hit my face; fortunately I had my sunglasses on and they didn't hit my eyes; by radio Tina alerted Luisa, who stopped the line; Luciano and Tony immediately rushed over and with clear adhesive tape and, for reinforcement, silver and brown tape, they covered the hole, so we could set off again without problems; it would have been much worse if the pane hit had been the central one.

We stop in a small but picturesque village on a hill and at the top of the village we park in the courtyard of a very old building characteristic of the place, where we find water and an electrical hookup. In the evening we celebrate Angela's and Emanuele's birthdays; the latter's was a few days ago, but there had been no occasion to celebrate it: with the last bottles of wine and prosecco, a panettone, some elaborate Pavesini and dried fruit, and the inevitable video recording by our cameraman Luciano, we spent the evening happily; Carlito recited a poem of his dedicated to all of us, in a joking tone he gave us a gift in rhyme; as a good Tuscan he was a fine reciter; Tony, with the supervision of Gino and Rita for the literary part and Silvana for the graphics, presented his work on parchment, listing the stages of our fabulous journey.

Illuminated parchment 'Magico Egitto' with decorated calligraphy and palm trees, party in Metameur
Illuminated parchment 'Magico Egitto' with decorated calligraphy and palm trees, party in Metameur
Day 74 Apr 2007

Tunis – 480/11196 – Parking – cloudy

Having left the Metameur parking area, we head toward Tunis with a stop at 13 at El Jem, with its gigantic colosseum, already visited the previous time; after lunch, while the others visited the monument, we did a bit of shopping: bread, fruit and, from a butcher, with Angela's supervision, some lamb, first 1 kg then 2 and finally 3, and to finish also the leg; my freezer is full again. At 15 we set off again; after a road through olive groves we join a highway; as in France we paid in three instalments, a total of 4,700 dinars; having reached Tunis, map in hand and with suggestions from me and Anely, Leader Luisa took us to a large parking area already used the previous time on Rue Mohamed V, 7 dinars for the night and another 7 tomorrow morning.

Tina and others in the group took a stroll around the centre and the Medina and I prepared dinner; my foot is better but I don't want to strain it. In the meantime I typed Carlito's rhyme into the computer, it's too beautiful.

Metameur: old ksar with arched mud-brick granary cells, empty doors in morning light
Metameur: old ksar with arched mud-brick granary cells, empty doors in morning light
Day 85 Apr 2007

Carthage – Parking in the museum square - 31/11227 - sunny/cloudy

Part of the group took the metro to visit the museum and then come back through the Medina; some had to buy the last few things. Tina and I went out later toward the Medina in search of Italian newspapers and to make a phone call; unfortunately even our mobile phone has abandoned us, it's all black; we found the telephone, but not the newspaper. In the afternoon we moved to Sidi Bou Said, a picturesque little village with white houses and blue shutters, very beautiful; the parking area in the village was full so we had to go back to the one on the outskirts and walk the road again.

Back at the campers, we moved to Carthage in the area of the Punic port, parked in the square in front of the museum; after a short visit to what remains of this mooring place for various vessels, we each returned to our own campers; after dinner, one last drink with the leftover bottles of liquor and various biscuits; Gino recited a poem of his dedicated ironically to Carlito with a single result: endless laughter.

White staircase among whitewashed houses with blue doors, tourists and souvenir shop, Sidi Bou Said
White staircase among whitewashed houses with blue doors, tourists and souvenir shop, Sidi Bou Said
Day 96 Apr 2007

Cartate Ferry – 19/11246 – Nice weather Calm sea

Before leaving I filled up with diesel to use up the last Tunisian dinars. Tony has problems with his camper, SuperBruno has one last job to do. Transfer to the port of La Goulette; after a long queue we finally boarded; the usual problem with the electrical hookup with a single socket. Smooth and very fast crossing.

White domed villa on the shores of Carthage lake
White domed villa on the shores of Carthage lake
Day 107 Apr 2007

Majano – home - 509/11755 – sunny

Very fast crossing; we left late and arrived early; the usual traffic on the stairs to reach the campers; unlike the previous time, the ship opens the bow doors so you can disembark without reversing; getting off the ship was faster; before disembarking, all the participants had agreed to say goodbye in a small square found on the way there; unfortunately, when we got to that place there's a barrier and you can't stop; after saying goodbye to the two crews that were with us, we leave the port and head for the highway.

With Sergio, a friend of mine, it had been decided to spend Easter together with his whole family; over the phone, however, he tells me he has to stay at his mountain house, so the celebration is postponed; it's now late afternoon and the road home is long; I decide to keep going as long as I can; after a stop and a 30-minute nap, I set off again and arrive home late in the evening. After 45 days we are home; Schizzo jumps down from the camper and runs into the garden, checking his possessions. It was all very beautiful and interesting; we are tired but happy to have made this trip; we have dinner and go straight to bed for a restorative sleep…………… what time did Luisa say we leave???? ………….. it's not a dream………… it's a nightmare!!!!

Palm and cypress trees reflected in the calm waters of Port Punico, among white houses
Palm and cypress trees reflected in the calm waters of Port Punico, among white houses

The journey's photographs

27 photographs · click to open them full screen

▶ Slideshow
White GNV ferry moored at Genoa harbor, gray skyGenoa's Stazione Marittima faces the harbor under a grey skyGenoa old harbor: pier, ships and towers under cloudy skyCouple standing on a cruise ship pool deck under blue skyPassengers seated around the empty pool on the ship deckFour passengers sitting on a wooden bench on a ferry deckFerry at open sea: red funnels and white lifeboats over the wakePassengers having lunch at tables in a ferry restaurant hallGroup of people having lunch in the Nav Glovera ferry dining roomOld stone walls with white lighthouse, palm trees and morning streetWhite arch and palm trees in a square at sunsetStrings of dried red peppers hanging on a metal frame by the roadRed chili peppers hanging outside a grocery shop, wicker baskets with legumesMotorhomes parked under a eucalyptus tree at dawn, a woman walks byBirthday group inside a cave dwelling in Matmata, table with cakes and wineMan with glasses reads a note beside a friend, birthday party in MetameurIlluminated parchment 'Magico Egitto' with decorated calligraphy and palm trees, party in MetameurMetameur ksar, mud-brick granaries with minaret, golden morning lightMetameur: old ksar with arched mud-brick granary cells, empty doors in morning lightWhite vaulted interior at Metameur, lit archway over stone wallsWhitewashed inner courtyard with arched doorways in Sidi Bou Said, hanging lamp and plantWhite staircase among whitewashed houses with blue doors, tourists and souvenir shop, Sidi Bou SaidBlue wooden oriel window in Sidi Bou SaidWhale skeleton in front of the white Carthage museum, morning lightWhite domed villa on the shores of Carthage lakePunic ruins at Carthage, ancient columns and walls among grass and sandy groundPalm and cypress trees reflected in the calm waters of Port Punico, among white houses

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