South Africa: A Wonderful Land Between Two Oceans

"Of Venus and of Mars one does not marry and does not set out"... of course we set out!... in fact, some of our most beautiful trips we have undertaken precisely on this day of the week! So on a very hot midsummer afternoon we set off, in the now well-tested formation of five, as twelve months ago, towards a new intriguing destination. This time we're going to South Africa, the twenty-fifth largest country in the world, also known as the Rainbow Nation and established, as the name suggests, at the antipodes of the African continent, which we will explore along an ambitious itinerary.

We'll start, in fact, from Cape Town, then touch the coast of the Indian Ocean, then the Atlantic, then the border with Namibia and that with Lesotho, then, after looking out once again over the Indian Ocean, we'll cross Swaziland and, skirting Mozambique, we'll arrive in Johannesburg for the epilogue of the holiday. We leave home at 15:50 and a quarter of an hour later we're in Faenza, where we pass by a large fire, mentioned also on the newscasts of the national networks, then we enter the A14 motorway heading north and in less than an hour, despite the heavy traffic, we reach Calderara di Reno, near Bologna, at the Parcheggi Low Cost, where we'll leave the car in storage for the entire duration of the trip. Soon after, with the free shuttle, we reach Marconi Airport, when it's just past 17:00.

We check in the suitcases directly for Cape Town (let's hope for the best) and, having passed the security checks, we wait for flight TK 1320 to Istanbul at gate number 19. Almost perfectly on time we then board the Airbus A320 of the Turkish Airlines company, which at 19:23 lifts off from the runway of Bologna, banking immediately towards the south. We cross over the Balkans and then glide in the direction of the Turkish capital, where we land at 22:25 local time, one hour more than Italy, but we leave the hands of the clock in their position, because South Africa, at this time of year, thanks to daylight saving time, has the same time zone as the Bel Paese and therefore we'd have to move them again.

As soon as we set foot in the Turkish airport we look for the next flight on the electronic boards, but when we find it we have an unwelcome surprise, because a delay of one hour and forty minutes is expected, so we glumly settle onto some armchairs and while we wait midnight gradually arrives, then...

The nighttime hours are devilishly long and we have to be patient for more than four hours before taking off, at 4:08, on the Airbus A330 of Turkish Airlines which, identified as flight TK 044, sets off banking immediately ever more towards the south. In this way we cross the entire African continent, from the mouth of the Nile to Cape Town (but how long it is!) and after a tight turn over the Atlantic Ocean we finally land at the International Airport of the great South African city, where it is 13:17, just like in Italy for that matter. We pass through the customs checks, in which Leonardo's multilingual birth certificate proved indispensable, then, shortly after, we enthusiastically welcome our five suitcases and go out into the open air of the southern winter... crisp but pleasant, on a beautiful sunny day.

A short walk then takes us to Avis to pick up the rental car we had booked back home and there, unfortunately, we have another setback, because it isn't ready yet and we have to wait more than an hour before it is handed over to us. Adding up, in this way, the delay to that of the plane we can do nothing but note, in practice, the premature end of this day. Finally, a little before 16:00, they entrust us with the keys of a white Mercedes Vito (license plate HS 60 GF GP) and with that we set off immediately for the new "On the road" adventure.

Driving on the left side of the roadway we head towards the center of Cape Town, which is about twenty kilometers away, and passing also by a miserable and distressing township, thanks to the navigator and the scant weekend traffic, we reach quite quickly the House on the Hill, a simple bed & breakfast structure, located near the Waterfront and the great stadium where the 2010 football World Cup was held, which will host us for the next three nights. We take the luggage to the room and set off again immediately, trying to make the most of the two hours of daylight at our disposal. In the heart of Cape Town we thus go to see (only from the outside because it has already closed its doors) the ancient Castle of Good Hope, a massive structure erected by the Dutch between 1666 and 1679, while a few clouds also come along to spoil the party.

Soon after we stop to take a photo of the House of Parliament and then we go up to the panoramic point of Signal Hill, from which ships arriving were once spotted. From there we enjoy a beautiful sunset, despite the clouds wrapping the highest peaks of the Table Mountain, then we make our return with darkness now complete to the House on the Hill. On foot we then go to do our shopping in a nearby food-market and a little later we go to dinner at Mario's Italian Restaurant, located a stone's throw from our accommodation, finally, tired after the long journey, we retire to the room for our well-deserved rest.

Here we are then ready and sprightly to tackle, stage after stage, "all" the exploration of South Africa... However, it rained heavily during the night and when we wake up it's cold and all grey, certainly not the best in view of the events. We have breakfast and then set off under the pouring rain, while at the nearest intersection a black person, probably homeless, trembles like a leaf from the cold and is helped by another, good-hearted one, who gives him some clothing. Our goal this morning would have been to go up the Table Mountain, a scenic prominence, included within the national park of the same name, which just exceeds a thousand meters in altitude and dominates all of Cape Town, but you can't even glimpse it, so wrapped in clouds is it.

So we head towards the southern outskirts of the city and towards the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, where we were supposed to go in the afternoon. This botanical garden, which extends to the east and at the foot of the Table Mountain, is one of the most important in the world of its kind (founded in 1913) and indeed, for its qualities it has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage, since 2004. When we arrive in the garden's parking lot, shortly after 9:00, we are among the first visitors and, in practice, it has just stopped raining, though the sky is still completely grey.

We enter the park without too much enthusiasm, following an avenue of centuries-old plants and then we make our way into the thick vegetation, also walking the Tree Canopy Walkway, a bold footbridge among the trees, while a few timid rays of sun begin to filter through the clouds, and then gradually more and more, until the sky opens up and all the colors of nature light up, so we can enjoy the final part of the visit. We observe beautiful plants and some surprising flowers, without ever forgetting that here we are, still, in the middle of winter, but also some representatives of the local aquatic fauna, among which two beautiful owls... in short, an excellent experience, given the premises. Afterwards we head towards the Table Mountain, hoping to be able to go up it.

The cable car however (we knew it) is closed for maintenance until August 18, so the only way is to go on foot, through the Platteklip Gorge. We thus travel the whole road, up to the start of the trail, but in vain because, despite the ample patches of clear sky, the summit of the mountain still remains hidden under big clouds. We then descend towards the center of Cape Town to go to the famous Bo-Kaap district, whose origin dates back to the 18th century, when a certain Jan De Waal had some little houses built to house slaves, mostly of Malay and Indonesian origin, therefore Muslim, who in time took it upon themselves to establish the first mosques there. After the emancipation of slaves in 1834, the habit was taken of painting the facades of the houses with garish colors (this was considered an expression of freedom) and even today this is the main characteristic of the district.

We leave the car in a guarded parking lot and venture along the main streets (Wale, Rose and Chiappini Street), all strewn with splendid colorful little houses, which form particularly photogenic pictures... another beautiful visit, after the botanical garden. Meanwhile the clouds on the Table Mountain have lowered further, so we try again. We go up again to the parking lot in front of the start of the trail and there we have lunch with our sandwiches, then we start following the route, which climbs immediately among large boulders and steep slopes. After an hour from the start we reach the entrance of the gorge, surrounded by beautiful views... The impression is that of being almost at the top, but from there the hardest stretch begins and another hour is needed, along an impervious path that unwinds among the rocks.

So, just past 15:00, we reach, or rather, conquer the summit of the Table Mountain and find ourselves, unfortunately, among the clouds... No panoramic view then, even though we can consider ourselves satisfied with the feat, but the most difficult part of the hike has yet to come, because sometimes the descent can be more tiring than the ascent, in fact, incredible but true, we take longer and arrive, physically devastated, at the car a handful of minutes after 17:00. We take the road again while an intense downpour breaks out... and I don't dare think if that had manifested even just thirty minutes ago. One more reason to savor the pleasure of sitting comfortably dry, in the seats of our Vito.

We head towards the House on the Hill, but first we stop by the enormous Waterfront shopping center, where we shop and also buy dinner to consume in the room, so as not to have to go out again given the accumulated tiredness... however it was worth it because we can say we have positively concluded the first real day of visits of the holiday. Later we go to sleep while it continues to rain insistently, but we are confident because from tomorrow it should improve.

A magnificent sun is shining, even though some clouds still gather on the highest peaks and on the Table Mountain. Shortly after 8:00 we start following the road that goes south along the coast and in a short time we reach the seaside resort of Camps Bay and the panoramic point from which one can savor the view over the bay of the same name, today battered by big waves and surrounded by the magnificent backdrop of mountain ridges called Twelve Apostles, which however are in the shadow of the early morning hours. We take a few photos and then continue, up to the town of Hout Bay, from whose little harbor the boats for Duiker Island usually set sail: little more than a rock, populated by a thick colony of Cape fur seals.

Today however the sea is too rough and the excursion only includes a tour in the bay, without approaching the island, so we give up and content ourselves with seeing only a few likable specimens of seal, half-tame, that practically live in the area of the port. From Hout Bay we then tackle the bold stretch of road (toll) called Chapman's Peak Drive, which develops south of the town among spectacular and vertiginous cliffs, unfortunately without the presence of a beautiful sun, which in the meantime has gone to hide among the clouds. Our beloved star then takes back the scene when, further south, we enter the southernmost section of the Table Mountain National Park and more precisely the one that incorporates the legendary Cape of Good Hope, the torment of the most famous navigators of the late sixteenth century. The area is also an important nature reserve, which we are about to visit.

We thus follow the road that ends in the parking lot from which, by a funicular, one can reach the historic lighthouse of Good Hope, dating back to 1860... The journey could also be done on foot, but the after-effects of the climb to the Table Mountain are today too great a burden to ferry. Once we reach our destination we nonetheless climb the flights of steps that lead, among beautiful views of the surrounding coast, to the foot of the lighthouse, then we follow the path that goes near the new lighthouse (erected in 1919 to make up for the shortcomings of the first, sometimes deceptive for its position too high on the cliffs of the Cape) and there we immortalize superb panoramas, embellished also by the presence of some whales, which we spot in the distance... simply wonderful! We thus return enthusiastic to the funicular and fully satisfied we make our way back to the car...

but it's certainly not over here. Right in the parking lot, in fact, we observe very closely some specimens of the famous baboons endemic to the place, which are likable, but whose reputation advises us against consuming our daily packed lunch on the spot. We then move by car along a route that leads, on the coast below, to the actual Cape of Good Hope, the south-westernmost point of the African continent, but not the southernmost, as one is often led to believe. Along the way we spot some antelopes, as well as a large array of big black-and-white birds (probably specimens of sacred ibis) and, having reached the end of the road, we can finally appease the pangs of hunger. Afterwards we take a dutiful souvenir photo with the commemorative sign of the place and, once explored the surrounding cliffs, we resume the itinerary.

Following the road that leads to the exit of the park we then encounter a haughty ostrich and subsequently, going back up the eastern coast of the Cape along False Bay, we reach the locality of Boulders, near the beach of the same name, where the most famous colony of African penguins of the entire region is found. We park the car and on foot we set off along the walkways that unwind in the protected area, beside which we can admire many likable little creatures, extremely funny in their movements and in numerous attitudes, but not as ridiculous as the statement of an Italian tourist that I happened to hear:... «After all I've already seen them in Genoa...».

Having savored also this exceptional experience we then head towards the northernmost part of False Bay and, having faced some tailbacks due to heavy traffic, we also arrive in the town of Muizenberg, an important seaside resort during the southern summer. Here, on a very white beach, kingdom of surfers, there is an original and intriguing parade of multicolored Victorian cabins, in a state of semi-abandonment given the season, which we go to photograph in the warm light of the now late afternoon. From this place we then head swiftly towards Cape Town, where we arrive almost at sunset, with the sun setting ablaze the (usual) clouds on the Table Mountain, closing the curtain on an unforgettable day.

Later, for dinner, we return to Mario's and there we listen to the fascinating story of the elderly Italian owner, originally from Lodi, before retiring for the third and last night in the House on the Hill.

Thus today our touring tour through that great country that is South Africa takes off. We leave the bed & breakfast around 8:00 and shortly after we leave Cape Town behind us, going around the Table Mountain from the east (which also today, strange but true, is among the clouds), and then we go southwest. We thus gain the sea on the eastern side of False Bay and following the coastal road we also arrive in the presence of the scenic Kogel Bay, which however is still in the shadow of the severe mountains that flank it. We then continue up to the village of Rooi Els, which looks like a little piece of Iceland transplanted into the southern hemisphere, and rounding a promontory we arrive in the locality of Betty's Bay, where we turn towards the coast to reach the parking lot of the Stony Point Nature Reserve.

This small protected area, founded in the eighties of the last century where there was a whaling station, hosts another large colony of African penguins, as well as other species of seabirds and some affable Cape hyraxes. The reserve, notably quieter than the one at Boulders, seen yesterday, is very beautiful and we can enjoy it at our leisure, without having to jostle with other tourists to take a photo. The panorama over the neighboring cliffs then, on a splendid sunny day, does the rest, even though a rather biting wind blows from the south. Having taken the road again, later, we continue east along the coast, always among splendid landscapes, while some baboons cross the road fearlessly, and before midday we arrive in the town of Hermanus, known for whale sightings, even from land.

We park the car by the ocean and immediately we lean out from the top of the cliffs, together with many other people, who are waiting patiently, but unfortunately the only spectacle today seems to be the rough sea, which produces enormous waves and exceptional splashes... and perhaps precisely for this reason the whales stay away from the coastal profile. Even the "whale crier", a folkloric character who is the official spotter of Hermanus, never sounds his horn to alert tourists to the presence of the great cetaceans. We set off again and then stop at another couple of spotting points, but with identical result... too bad!... We then have lunch with our sandwiches and our gaze turned to the sea (you never know), then we resume the journey.

At this point we head inland, because the coastal road is destined, a little further on, to be interrupted and, crossing bucolic landscapes, along roads sometimes dirt, but in good condition, in the end we arrive, once again on the coast, in the locality of L'Agulhas, the southernmost settlement of all Africa. We cross the town and go to the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse, a historic lighthouse dating back to 1848, to whose visit we dedicate ourselves, also climbing the 71 steep steps that lead to the top, to enjoy the panoramas over the flat surrounding landscape. Right after we travel just one kilometer of track and arrive at Cape Agulhas, which is the southernmost point of the black continent, where two oceans ideally meet: the Atlantic and the Indian.

We take the necessary photos of the case and then continue another couple of kilometers along the coast, until we arrive at the wreck of the Japanese ship Meisho Maru, which ran aground here in 1982, of which only the bow remains. It's almost 17:00 and it's time to hurry towards the end of the stage, with Federico experiencing for the first time in his life driving on the left. So we pass by the nearby Struisbaai Harbour, where there would be the possibility of seeing some rays swimming, among which the one called Parrie, which became famous on the web, but not today, and then we head decisively towards the town of Swellendam for the night, which is about a hundred kilometers away. In the magical light of the late afternoon we thus cross wonderful hilly lands, until we reach our destination shortly before sunset.

We take lodging at the Cypress Cottage Guest House, a family-run establishment that is really nice, and from there we go out to dinner, on foot, at the nearby Republic Restaurant, eating excellent meat at a very convenient price, then we go to the room to rest, in anticipation of another intense day.

On waking in the quiet town of Swellendam the sky turns out to be largely cloudy. We have a pleasant breakfast at the Cypress Guest House and then we set off for this new stage. So, a few kilometers outside the town towards the southwest, we turn onto a dirt road that goes in the direction of the coast, following the signs for the De Hoop Nature Reserve, which for its rich biodiversity has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage since 2004. Along the way, among beautiful cultivated hills and boundless pastures, it also begins to drizzle... not exactly the best, but it should improve. After more than thirty kilometers of dirt track we turn definitively in the direction of the park. We go up a hill and down the other side, while as if by magic the sky opens up and the sun comes out, with, in the distance, the evident white patch of the great dunes that characterize the area.

We pass the gate and in a short time we arrive at the visitor center of the park, while almost immediately we notice some specimens of bontebok, an antelope endemic to the area, once heavily hunted and brought almost to the brink of extinction, very elegant, chocolate-colored with white underparts and a white stripe that goes from the forehead to the tip of the nose, truly a beautiful animal, which we observe flanked, now and then, by some vain ostrich. We then do a short loop around the visitor center, along which we see many other antelopes, also of the eland species, then we head towards the coast and where the road ends, at the Koppie Alleen parking lot.

From here we set off on foot on the enormous white sand dunes, which are the main attraction of the reserve and rightly so, because they are a true marvel of nature, embellished by the spectacle that unfolds among the waves of the ocean just offshore of the water's edge, with several whales that now and then spout, or show the unmistakable tail: they are the southern right whales, which habitually come to breed in this stretch of coast, making the De Hoop Nature Reserve one of the best sites in the world to observe them. We remain a long time looking around and contemplating the horizon and then we walk along the coast towards the east, surrounded by an explosion of flowers of a thousand colors and other whales among the waves, until almost midday, when we regain our car with eyes full of wonder.

We leave this magical place somewhat reluctantly and make our way back to the visitor center, where we follow a pointless dirt loop of almost eight kilometers, along which we spot zero animals. The hope was to see the rare Cape mountain zebra, but we were not granted that honor, so we stop to have lunch in a designated area before definitively leaving the De Hoop Nature Reserve, which we will never forget. We travel back along the whole dirt road of the early hours of the morning, among beautiful views heightened by the presence of the sun, and having regained the asphalt we point the bow of the Vito decidedly towards the north. We thus grind out kilometers at a good pace and right after the town of Robertson we cross a vast region rich in vineyards and related wineries, all surrounded by scenic mountains.

Mountains that never leave us and accompany us for the entire afternoon journey, until we pass the Michell's Pass and reach the big town of Ceres (nothing to do with the well-known beer), then the spectacular Gydo Pass, surrounded by grandiose views. Further on we also tackle, with a touch of apprehension, the bold Middleberg Pass, which unwinds entirely on dirt in the southernmost part of the Cederberg mountain range, and then we glide down to the locality of Citrusdal, where we take lodging, in the vicinity, at the Piekenierskloof Mountain Resort. In this way we dine divinely and at a good price within the establishment, concluding another exceptional day.

Ferragosto begins very early for us, because the alarm sounds even before 6:00, when outside it is still dark. We have breakfast in the room and then, as dawn breaks, shortly after 7:00, we set off, descending from the heights where the establishment that hosts us is located, towards the town of Citrusdal, which is lower down, in the valley, and is completely engulfed by fog. We proceed north on road number 7, accompanied by a frigid outside temperature, which oscillates between four and five degrees, until we reach a turnoff on the right for a dirt route, which brings back the signs for the locality of Algeria and immediately climbs in altitude, emerging from the fog.

Having passed a mountain pass, among grand panoramas, we arrive right at Algeria and after a brief stop at the reception to register we enter the Cederberg Wilderness Area, a vast protected area (UNESCO Heritage), which embraces the entire massif of the same name. We then continue for another twenty-five kilometers along the road that goes deeper into the park. Our goal, in fact, is to reach the turnoff that leads to the parking lot of the Maltese Cross Trail, a hiking route of medium difficulty that we intend to follow, while, fortunately, the temperature rises a little.

The signs however are not clear and we encounter some difficulty, so we go to the nearby Dwarsriver Farm, where there is another reception and where they register us again (to tell the truth at Algeria they hadn't done it), then they give us the right directions, and this time we take the right track, which in reality we had already taken, but which left us in doubt, given the presence of a gate. The gate however had to be opened and then closed again, after which a dirt track of five kilometers in decent condition leads to the parking lot. Apparently we are the only visitors and, having left the car parked with only the embarrassment of choice, we set off immediately along the trail.

After a few hundred meters there is a little bridge made of two logs to cross, then we begin to climb, at times also with steep slopes (but not like at the Table Mountain) and, surrounded by intriguing landscapes, after 3.5 kilometers and an hour and forty-five minutes of walking, we arrive in the presence of the Maltese Cross, a spectacular sandstone pinnacle, about twenty meters high, shaped by erosion into a form that vaguely recalls, indeed, a cross. A very beautiful rock formation, imposing and set in a splendid context, heightened among other things by the exceptional day, meteorologically speaking, with clear sky and perfect temperature, despite the cold of the early morning. The adventure is completed, after the descent, in about three and a half hours, so as to regain the car just in time for lunch.

Time however flies and right after we have to set off again promptly because it's getting late. We descend from the Cederberg and, having regained the asphalt of road number 7, we proceed north for twenty-five kilometers, until we reach the junction from which, going left, in another sixty kilometers we arrive on the shore of the Atlantic in the locality of Lambert's Bay, while a not very reassuring message about the oil level (too high...?) lights up several times on the display of the onboard computer. In the immediate vicinity of the port of this town, one of the few on the western coast of South Africa, is the Lambert's Bay Island Nature Reserve, which we reach walking along the pier on which the great ocean waves crash.

On this small island of only three hectares dwells a large colony of Cape gannets, not like that of their closest relatives on Île-Bonaventure in Canada (seen last year) but nonetheless well populated. We remain for a while observing these splendid blue-eyed birds in their typical attitudes, all crowded one against the other, among deafening cries, then, having taken the necessary photos, we set off again with a certain urgency. In fact, another 93 kilometers separate us from the next destination, and it's already late afternoon.

We thus travel back the whole route up to road number 7, which we then cross to continue on the opposite side, again towards the Cederberg mountains, and shortly before 17:00 we arrive at the entrance of the Sevilla Rock Art Trail, a simple trail that leads to the discovery of some rock art sites of the Bushmen (the San), a population that anciently inhabited the area, datable within a broad time range, between 800 and 8000 years ago. Immediately they tell us that it's too late to undertake the walk, but at my insistence they allow us to explore the first six of nine points of interest, scattered along the course of the Brandewyn River, with the promise of turning back before dark. We observe near the reception two trees swarming with weaver birds and their incredible nests and then we set off briskly along the route.

Thus, in little more than half an hour we see the six sites, rich in splendid rock paintings in warm tones, which stand out on the light native rocks. Afterwards, on the way back, we lose our bearings a little, but, tagging along with a group of French, at 18:00, as expected, we are back at the reception. At this point the race towards the final destination of the stage begins, trying to avoid, as much as possible, the darkness. In this way, having regained for the umpteenth time road number 7, around 19:00 we come within sight of the town of Klawer, on whose outskirts the South African police also stop us for a check, then, a few minutes later, we arrive at the Oasis Country Lodge, which will host us for the night.

It is a rather dated establishment, but one that fulfills all that is required, including dinner and breakfast for tomorrow morning, the right epilogue of another positive episode of the holiday.

Also in Klawer, as in Citrusdal, there is fog when we set off, after a rich breakfast consumed at the hotel. Today's will be a rather demanding day, with quite a distance to cover, which we begin with the bow turned north along road number 7, accompanied for several tens of kilometers, indeed, by the fog, at times also thick, so much so that at times it seems to us we see the exit for Occhiobello... then it dissolves and the sun comes out. We grind out great distances (over two hundred kilometers, leaving the Western Cape region to enter that of the Northern Cape), with the vulture on the shoulder of that oil warning light that occasionally lights up, until the remote locality of Kamieskroon, where we leave the main road to follow the dirt road that leads to the Namaqua National Park.

This large national park, which extends right to the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, in a semi-desert environment, is famous above all for what is called "The blooming spectacular Namaqualand wild flowers", an exceptional flowering that manifests itself every year between mid-August and the end of September... we are therefore at the dawn of the season, but it's worth a try, hoping for a certain precocity of the event. After about 15 kilometers of track we arrive at the gate of the protected area, while here and there one already notices some patches of flowers. Thus we make our way into the Skilpad section, the only one of the park visitable without the aid of a 4x4 (but for us it can be enough) and along the way the lands on our sides brighten more and more, with a bright orange, until we reach the visitor center, literally immersed in an explosion of color.

To fully enjoy the spectacle we first follow the loop intended for cars and then a part of the trekking that goes deeper into the incredible floral carpet, leaving in us emotions difficult to describe. We savor the place as much as possible and then, following back the whole dirt road up to Kamieskroon, we return to follow road number 7 towards the north. Around midday we thus arrive in the town of Springbok and from there we head towards the nearby Goegap Nature Reserve, a small reserve about which I didn't have much information. We pass the gate and once we reach the visitor center we have lunch with our sandwiches, then we briefly visit the collection of succulent plants of the Hester Malan Wildflowers Garden, with some beautiful specimens of quiver trees, a species of aloe widespread between South Africa and Namibia, typical of desert areas.

We then set off along a dirt loop, which goes deeper into the wild surrounding landscape, where a flowering similar to that of the Namaqua National Park usually manifests itself, but here evidently the season is behind, so we have to content ourselves with some intriguing views and the distant sighting of a single antelope. In the end, shortly after 14:00, we are already ready to resume the itinerary towards the end of the stage, which is still very far away. We thus begin to grind out kilometers east along road number 14, which advances among vast panoramas in the South African desert on the borders with Namibia (from time to time plagued by that damned warning light). The route becomes at times disconcerting for its monotony, but precisely for this reason terribly fascinating, with interminable straight stretches between two wings of yellowish lands and the blue of the sky...

always straight. We only deviate to reach the remote village of Pella, just a few kilometers from Namibia, characterized by a church dating back to 1895, then we resume the road, which is even straighter... until the next turnoff, at the Orange River, for the locality of Augrabies and the Augrabies Falls Lodge, which will host us for the night. There we dine very well and at a ridiculous price within the establishment and then we go to rest, at the end of a beautiful but tiring day.

At the beginning of the second week of travel we wake up in the heart of the desert region in the extreme northwest of South Africa, while a supposed mechanic reassures us about the dreaded oil warning light. Today's destination is the nearby Augrabies Falls National Park, a significant park established in 1966 along the course of the Orange River, one of the most important of southern Africa, with its 2200 kilometers of length, which at this point forms impetuous waterfalls and an impressive gorge 240 meters deep. The reserve however extends over a much vaster area, within which one could also encounter several wild animals, but not the large predators. We have breakfast at the lodge and shortly after 8:00 we are ready to pass the gate of the park, located only two kilometers away.

Subsequently we make a stop at the reception, where we register, before setting off along the track that develops in the westernmost zone of the reserve. Immediately we tackle some simple fords and then we spot several species of antelopes, starting with the small klipspringer, then a beautiful greater kudu, with imposing curved horns, and many agile springbok, which, fearful, flee among splendid quiver trees, at times invaded by the enormous nests of sociable weaver birds. Gradually we then arrive at a fork, where the route becomes a rather long one-way loop (but with possible shortcuts), which requires a certain dose of patience. In this way, after fifty kilometers from the entrance and about two hours of driving, we begin to return towards the visitor center... but the best is yet to come.

At the exit of a curve, in fact, a beautiful giraffe presents itself before us (our first giraffe!) and a little further on we see five more, interspersed by a splendid gemsbok, another antelope, similar to the bontebok, but with more upright horns and a muzzle that is practically its negative in terms of coloring. Having completed the loop we turn left towards the first of the panoramic points over the Augrabies canyon and in doing so, surprisingly, before us stand two magnificent Hartmann's zebras, a rare species considered almost at risk of extinction... bingo! With this we have in fact seen almost all the most representative animals of the park. Afterwards we reach the Overlook of Echo Corner... beautiful, but with a not too wide a view, so, having returned almost immediately to the main route we also take the turnoff for the panoramic point of Oranjekom.

This one instead is spectacular, located as it is on a natural terrace overlooking the canyon. There is also a small equipped area and we take the opportunity to have lunch. On setting off again we complete the series of overlooks with the best known one, that of Ararat, from which one can observe the bursting beauty of the canyon in a good stretch of its full 18 kilometers of length. Further on another small detour takes us to the curious site of Moon Rock, where a granite hill takes on the appearance, indeed, of a hypothetical lunar landscape, finally we return to the area of the reception and the visitor center, where we park the car to go and see the famous waterfalls that give the park its name.

It is certainly not the best season, the current one, for the water flow, but nonetheless the 56-meter drop of the Orange River is spectacular, which plunges with a roar from the plateau into the canyon, at this point particularly narrow and deep. We thus follow all the equipped walkways that lead to the discovery of the most suggestive points, noting here and there also some specimens of Broadley's lizard, an endemic species whose males present a stunning and vivid coloring, which goes from the dark blue of the throat, to the yellow of the forelimbs and orange of the hind ones, and in this way we complete the visit.

Now however, despite the thirty degrees, we intend to also do a short trek and, after signing in at the reception in the appropriate register, we set off along the Gorge Trail, an easy path that in little more than a kilometer leads to the spectacular Arrow's Point, where a fork of the canyon forms a great rocky spur. From the top the impression is that of being on the bow of an enormous ship about to enter the gorge, with in addition, on the left, the sublime view of the Twin Falls, a beautiful double drop formed by a secondary branch of the Orange River... This last waterfall, set in an extraordinary context, perhaps astonished us even more, compared to its more famous sister.

Having regained the car, now in the late afternoon, the time has come to leave the fabulous Augrabies Falls National Park and even without too much delay, because about 120 kilometers still separate us from the stage's seat, which is the city of Upington, the most important of the region. Having reached our destination we take lodging at the Tarentaalrand Guest House (very nice and welcoming) and for dinner we go, in a nearby shopping center, to a restaurant of the Ocean Basket chain, about which I had excellent references... confirmed. Then we go immediately to rest, in anticipation of the next, very intense, chapter of the journey.

Thus today the longest stage of the itinerary takes off, almost purely a transfer, from the borders with Namibia,

The wake-up is bracing at almost two thousand metres of altitude in Clarens, from where we set off, right after breakfast, for the nearby Golden Gate Highlands National Park, established in 1963 to protect a vast and spectacular mountainous area, which was once a refuge of the Bushman peoples. We pass through the gate and, passing at the foot of the Brandwag Buttress, the rock formation that is the symbol of the park, we arrive at the reception, where they register us (and fortunately we are the only ones, because they take forever), then we set off along the Blesbok Loop, a one-way route (on asphalt) of about seven kilometres that winds over the surrounding heights.

The route allows us to savour beautiful views of an arid landscape, due to the dry season, and to make the acquaintance of some antelopes, as well as the black wildebeest and Burchell's zebra, a subspecies of the plains zebra. Once back on the main road, we also follow the Oribi Loop, similar to its predecessor, but perhaps less spectacular and with less wildlife. In the meantime, however, the sun has risen high in the sky and now floods the entire valley with light, so we return to the reception and, having parked the car, we prepare to follow the Brandwag Trail. The path climbs gradually, amid stupendous panoramas, up to the most representative cliff of the park and, after taking the necessary photos, after about an hour and thirty of easy trekking we return to our trusty vehicle.

Having resumed the itinerary through the Golden Gate Highlands National Park, after about twenty kilometres, we arrive at the right-hand turning that leads to the Basotho Cultural Village, the interesting reconstruction of a traditional Basotho village, a proud people of nearby Lesotho. Along a short walk we thus observe the different types of dwelling, always very colourful, adopted by this ethnic group from the 16th century onwards, up to the present day, giving us a rough idea of their evolution. After this pleasant experience we leave the park eastwards amid other remarkable scenery, then skirt the vast lake created by the Sterkfontein Dam, with the view stretching into the distance, in today's haze, over the Drakensberg mountain range and its peaks that exceed three thousand metres in height to divide South Africa from Lesotho.

We then leave the Free State province and enter that of Kwazulu-Natal, to arrive, shortly before 13:00, at the entrance of the Spioenkop Nature Reserve. This modest reserve, established around the lake formed by the dam of the same name, lies right on our route and, offering the chance to observe some wildlife, we decide to devote a little of our time to it. We pass through the entrance gate of the site and immediately go to the rest area, on the shores of the lake, to have lunch, then we tackle the few practicable unpaved roads in search of animals and, apart from a few antelopes, at first it is a small disappointment, then following the last loop we partly make up for it, collecting the sight of many zebras, but not the hoped-for giraffes. We leave the Spioenkop Nature Reserve promptly shortly after 14:00, because many kilometres still await us to reach the end of the stage.

We now cross that vast region that was once the kingdom of the noble Zulu people, who clashed with the British army at the end of the 19th century (the so-called Anglo-Zulu War). These hostilities gave rise to bloody battles, remembered with numerous memorial sites, which we often happen to encounter along the route … We take note of them, but do not visit them. We notice, however, that the poor local population still often lives in simple tukuls with thatched roofs. After another demanding stage, including a mountain pass entirely on gravel road, we arrive, shortly after 18:00 and in complete darkness, near the town of Ulundi (ancient Zulu capital) at the Uzumi Ondini Guest House, a sort of village entirely made of modern tukuls, in two of which we take lodging. There, later, we dine under a large tree and a

First day of the trip dedicated to the great South African reserves … in fact, out of excitement, as soon as the alarm goes off, at 5:30, in next to no time little Leo is already dressed and ready to go. There's no time to have breakfast, which is included in the room price, so we have the baskets handed to us and by 6:30 we're already on the road, racking up miles toward the Cengeni Gate, the southernmost entrance of Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park. In the oldest reserve on the African continent (established in 1895), all the so-called big five are present (elephant, lion, leopard, rhinoceros and buffalo), but they are hard to see; on the other hand, inside the park there is the largest population of white rhinoceros in the world, with over 1600 specimens.

After covering about thirty kilometers, around 7:00, we finally pass through the gate, where they register us and ask us a ton of questions, including whether we have firearms, which surprises us a bit, but which perhaps isn't completely out of place, given the numerous incidents of poaching that occur. Right after, we stop for a quick breakfast and then we venture along the dirt roads of the park, in the southern area, that is, in the Imfolozi one. At first we don't see much, just a few impala (a very widespread antelope), then we come out onto a bend of the Witmofolozi river and, retracing our steps, we head toward the heart of the park. In this way we spot with immense amazement, in the distance, first a rhinoceros, then an elephant and another one still. We stop by Mpafa Hide, but the waterfall and its pool are completely dry … what a shame.

This doesn't stop us from seeing, a few hundred meters further on, two splendid white rhinos right at the edge of the road, complete with oxpeckers, small passerine birds that perch almost constantly, through symbiosis, on the backs of the large mammals. Following the track shortly after, we cross paths with a wildebeest and two beautiful giraffes, as well as some zebras … we must, however, acknowledge that, due to the drought, the waterholes are almost all dried up. Afterward we take the Sontuli Loop, penetrating into the area of the park where one might also see lions, but, above all, the rare wild dogs, but we aren't lucky. So we look out from above over the course of the Black Mfolozi river, spotting shortly after some warthogs and two buffalo among the scrub. Sightings then become increasingly sporadic, also because the important wetland area of Ubhejane Hide is completely dry.

In this way we regain the paved road that winds through the north-central part of the park to reach, shortly after noon, the area of the Centenary Centre, where we stop for lunch, with the trumpeting of some elephants in the distance. With full bellies we then resume the itinerary and, passing under the R618 road, which practically divides the park in half, we venture into its northern part, that is, the Hluhluwe one. First on asphalt and then following a detour onto a dirt road to our left, which leads to Seme Lookout, we start off strong, spotting a fine group of giraffes right beside the roadway, then some magnificent zebras complete with a calf, a rhinoceros taking a nap and an elephant in the distance, then along the Mansiya Nzimane Loop more zebras invading the road surface and a small crocodile on the banks of an almost dry stream.

Amid magnificent panoramas, afterward, we take the track heading north along the Hluhluwe river, full of expectations, but here we don't make any important sightings, just a few antelopes and two beautiful turtles in a pond. Having thus regained the main paved road, we hastily head back south and toward the park exit, because it's getting late. This doesn't stop us from still seeing a beautiful mother rhinoceros with her calf, a large group of baboons and a herd of giraffes, now in the warm light of late afternoon. We leave the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park extremely satisfied shortly after 17:00 and immediately rush toward the end of the stage. In this way we descend toward the sea, while the sun races inexorably toward the horizon line, and we arrive in the locality of St. Lucia with complete darkness already fallen.

We take lodging at The Bridge Unit 30, a sort of condominium with apartments for rent, then we go out to dinner nearby, at Alfredo's, a nice place run by a Roman born in South Africa, with whom we exchange a few pleasant chats, savoring among other things good impala meat, of which he is proud. The day, however, isn't over yet; St. Lucia is in fact famous for its hippos, which sometimes, at night, can be seen wandering through the village, so, almost jokingly, after dinner we take a stroll around the area and along the main street we meet one that is calmly grazing on the grass! … This country gets more and more incredible and exciting, and every day it knows how to surprise us thanks to the astounding richness of its nature.

Early wake-up and already ready at 7:00 on the nearby pier, by the bridge that crosses the outflow river of St. Lucia Lake, to take part in the Hippo & Croc Boat Cruise, booked from home. A little later we set sail, in the company of about ten other people, aboard a sort of barge, searching above all for hippos, for which the area is famous, but also for crocodiles.

To spot the former we don't have to try too hard, because they were already visible in the distance from the pier and, naturally, from the boat you see them better … much better! So we sail along the watercourse for about ninety minutes, observing, often very close up, many bad-tempered hippos, which repeatedly quarrel among themselves and which, in certain situations, are among the most dangerous wild animals even for humans … An incredible experience, which we will hardly forget! Along the way we also glimpse a few crocodiles, which we then observe more closely, almost at the end of the excursion, in a side channel. After disembarking at the starting point, shortly after 9:00, we return to Unit 30 to retrieve our suitcases and then set off for today's leg on the road. We head north of St.

Lucia and after a few kilometers we enter the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, the third largest protected area in South Africa, to which in truth also belongs the hippo area explored in the morning. It was established, in various steps, starting from 1895 and in 1999 it was also declared a Unesco World Heritage Site, with a ceremony attended by Nelson Mandela as well. iSimangaliso in the Zulu language means "a wonder" … and with these premises we pass through the Bhangazi Gate to venture into the Eastern Shore, that is the easternmost section of the park, which unfolds between Lake St. Lucia and the Indian Ocean. Here are found all the most famous African animals, but not the predators, with the exception of the rare leopard. We begin following the main road, paved, and from there we take, one after another, all the side loops, on dirt tracks.

In this way we soon realize that the park is indeed very green and has, in some points, dense vegetation, but the animals certainly are not plentiful. Nonetheless we see a few antelopes and some cute little monkeys, before looking out over the ocean at Mission Rock, where, just offshore, we notice an unmistakable whale spouting. Subsequently, tackling some secondary tracks we come across two beautiful rhinos and an elegant kudu, then, after touching the shores of St. Lucia Lake at Catalina Bay, we look out again over the ocean at the immense beach of Cape Vidal, where we stop to enjoy a walk on the soft and light sand that characterizes it.

In this splendid and wild place we would like to stop for lunch, but the presence nearby of many lively monkeys lying in wait advises us against it, so we eat our sandwiches a little later along the Grassland Loop, which winds, among immense moorlands, into the more open areas of the reserve. Here, in the early afternoon, we spot some splendid zebras and a few buffalos, before regaining the main road and leaving this section of the park around 14:00. Back in the center of St. Lucia we take the opportunity to refuel and shortly after, after crossing the river towards the interior, we pass the Dukuduku Gate to enter (after paying the entrance fee again) the Western Shore of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, which unfolds west of St. Lucia Lake.

Also in this area of the park (even more so than in the previous one) the animals are not plentiful and in any case, besides the usual herbivores, we see a beautiful herd of giraffes (we're certainly becoming demanding!), then we follow the Umthoma Aerial Boardwalk, a route that culminates with a walkway among the trees, and, after passing an important pool, unfortunately dry, we arrive again on the shores of St. Lucia Lake at Charters Creek, before definitively leaving the park through the Nhlozi Gate heading west. In this way we gain road number 2, following which, for about eighty kilometers due north, we arrive, around 18:00 and practically in the dark, in the town of Mkuze, where we struggle a bit, but in the end we find the Biweda Ngoni B&B that will host us for the night.

We have dinner, not very well, at the nearby Country Club and then, satisfied with the events, we go to bed early, in anticipation of the first of a fine series of early wake-ups in the coming days.

The alarm goes off at 5:00 … So, after a skimpy breakfast in the room we set off from the Biweda B&B towards the eMshophi Gate of the uMkhuze Game Reserve, which is about twenty kilometers away. This reserve, in which in theory one could see all the big five, was created in 1912 and today constitutes the northwestern section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Already before 7:00 we are inside the park and immediately we encounter three beautiful giraffes, then a wildebeest along the dirt road that leads to the kwaMalibala pool, which however is completely dry, therefore deserted. We then continue on the main road and then take the secondary one that leads to another pool, that of kuMahlala, but this one too is without water.

We therefore continue on the strip of asphalt that goes towards the eastern sector of the park, along which we notice mountains of dung, but not the culprits, unfortunately. We thus arrive at the observation point over the vast Lake Nsumo, formed by the Mkuze River, but here, besides a few birds, we must settle only for the sounds of some hippos in the distance. We set off again, not too enthusiastic, towards the southern area of the reserve, largely burned by controlled fires, a practice very widespread and considered useful for the proper functioning of the ecosystem in South Africa, and here instead we see giraffes, zebras and wildebeests, as well as a superb bird of prey, probably an eagle.

Returning promptly towards the exit of the park we then stop, without too many expectations, also at the kuMasinga pool, which we would have expected to be dry, like all the others … nothing could be more wrong, because instead there is still a lot of water and its banks are more alive than ever! We position ourselves at the observation point, staying as silent as possible, and we literally enjoy this little earthly paradise, which alone is worth the entire morning … One after another indeed the most varied species of animals come to drink, from antelopes to wildebeests, from zebras to warthogs and then the monkeys, but also many brightly colored birds … an indescribable (surprise) experience that filled us with inner joy. In this way, however, it gets late and afterwards we rush towards the exit of the park.

We return to Mkuze, where we do some shopping before resuming our itinerary north on road number 2. Doing so, after less than an hour, we reach the border with Swaziland and there we prepare to cross the Golela border post. It's an African customs, so you need to arm yourself with patience … and in about half an hour, after an endless series of stamps, we finally enter the small and poor kingdom of eSwatini, as its sovereign (Mswati III) has decided to call it for a year now. With the exception of a few private hunting reserves, however, there are no particular points of interest in this state, so, having to cross it in the shortest possible time, we launch ourselves speedily along its roads.

In this way, after a handful of kilometers, we inevitably fall victim to a local laser speed camera … Ninety kilometers per hour where the limit is sixty … and yet! … Sixty inexorable Rand of fine, the equivalent of a good four euros, to be paid immediately! … However, given the amount, it's almost a pleasure, and at the cost of starting a collection of fines I set off again immediately, without hesitation! A little further on we stop to have lunch on the roadside, then, due to roadworks, we also tackle a long stretch of dirt road and regain the border with South Africa at the Mananga customs. This time the procedures are quicker and in a short time we re-enter the Rainbow Nation, along the roads belonging to the Mpumalanga province. We stop to shop and refuel in the town of Sibayeni and immediately set off again because time is pressing.

In this way we skim the border with Mozambique, in the town of Komatipoort, and from there we head towards the Crocodile Bridge gate of the famous Kruger National Park, the first South African national park, established in 1926, starting from the original reserve dating back to 1902, which gradually expanded over time. Today the park has an area of almost twenty thousand square kilometers, slightly less than the entire Lombardy region, and is an International Man and Biosphere Reserve under the aegis of Unesco. We arrive on site shortly after 16:30, just in time to complete the entry formalities and head towards the Lower Sabie camp, where we will stay tonight. As soon as we enter this legendary park we make many sightings, starting with elephants, but also zebras, wildebeests, giraffes and the most varied ungulates, then with the warm light of sunset we come in view of the camp.

Before crossing the gate, however, we go to the nearby Sunset Dam, a lake basin where, among the golden reflections of its waters, we notice crocodiles and hippos, even surmounted by fearless wading birds, and many other birds, among which some storks of the yellow-billed species … another exceptional experience. We then enter the camp and take possession of our bungalows, then go to dinner in the restaurant on the terrace overlooking the Sabie River … all around, in the African night, many sounds are heard, sometimes even unsettling, while a magnificent starry sky reigns above us, in which the Milky Way can also be distinguished … a feeling, to say the least, exciting! … And it is only the beginning, we believe, of the magical Kruger National Park …

Today is the first real day inside the Kruger National Park and we want to start, after an inevitable early wake-up that makes us leave the camp shortly after 6:00, exactly from where we left off last night at sunset, that is from the Sunset Dam, also this morning teeming with life. We then set off along the route planned in advance through the park, taking the S28 track southwards, surrounded by some morning banks of fog, which does not prevent us from immediately making the first important encounter: two splendid lions, stationed on the edge of the road, which soon vanish into the misty surrounding landscape. We thus arrive at the observation point of Nthahdanyathi Hide, overlooking a small watercourse, where we see a beautiful specimen of saddle-billed stork, which stands out for its bright colors, and further in the distance, perched on a branch, an elegant fish eagle.

Back on the road, immediately after, we make another exceptional sighting: a few meters from our car, in fact, a mother leopard and her cub scamper about, which we stop to contemplate until both vanish into the vegetation.

Having regained the asphalt of road H4-2 we then head towards the southwestern part of the park along tracks H5 and S26, where we encounter, in succession, groups of giraffes, zebras and elephants, indeed, at a certain point we find ourselves in the middle of a herd of pachyderms … then again zebras and still elephants … It is just past 9:00 and we have already seen an impressive quantity of animals! Subsequently the dirt road S114 brings us to the intersection with the asphalt strip of H1-1, from where, turning left we first arrive at the beautiful panoramic point of Mathekeyane, then, after other now routine sightings, at the short detour to Transport Dam, a small body of water where there is an impressive quantity of wildebeests and impalas drinking.

A short distance away then, in the shade of some bushes, three magnificent lionesses … fantastic! At the next pool, that of Nwaswitshaka, there is instead a curious hippo on whose back at least fourteen turtles can be counted and in the surrounding shrubs hundreds of small birds that move in swarms, continuously and almost neurotically. Immediately after, along the way, several more elephants, before landing at the observation point of Lake Panic Bird Hide where, in an enchanted landscape, one can glimpse many birds and turtles, as well as an enormous crocodile, while in an adjacent pool three elephants proceed to cover themselves with mud.

At the end of this last experience we enter the nearby camp of Skukuza, the largest in the park, and there we go to lunch in a designated area, where Leonardo starts crying from fright when a little monkey snatches from his hands a piece of his precious sandwich. When hostilities with Kruger resume we set off again in style, with an impressive parade of elephants crossing the road, then, after crossing the Sabie River, we venture further north, into a predominantly more arid area, given the pools all dry, with the animals progressively disappearing from our view.

We pass by the memorial dedicated to Paul Kruger, the Boer leader to whom the park was dedicated as a gesture of reconciliation by the British administration in 1926, and a few kilometers further on we also climb to the panoramic point of Mkumbe, at the top of one of the rare hills in the area, to capture the vastness of the savannah from above. At the observation point of Orpen Dam, a barrier along the course of the Nwaswitsontso River, in a splendid natural setting, we then return to make some sightings. Then, following the river northwards, we encounter a large herd of wildebeests, but also elephants and many giraffes, finally following a short detour we go to see the southernmost baobab in the park, a colossal and fascinating plant.

Around 17:30 we make our entrance into the Satara Rest Camp, one of the most famous in Kruger, which will host us for the night, but the day is by no means over, because a night safari awaits us, which will start from the reception at 20:00. Promptly we go to dinner in the camp restaurant and just before the scheduled time we present ourselves at the start of the tour … We thus climb aboard a large open off-road vehicle and with that we venture into the dark and cold of the South African night. During the two hours of the excursion we see some hyenas, a jackal, a porcupine, some genets (small long-tailed felines), a herd of zebras and an elephant … good, but not great, because we were expecting something more. In the end we retire to our room, exhausted after a very long but unforgettable day, spent in the fascinating nature of the Kruger National Park.

Slept well in the Satara Rest Camp, but too little, only from 23:00 to 5:00, but we have no alternative, after all we really cannot let slip the opportunities that this magical place offers us. Thus, two weeks after the start of the vacation, we wake up still in the Kruger National Park and after a quick breakfast we set off for a new day of sightings. We go east of the camp, towards the border with Mozambique and in what should be the best area of the park to see lions … At first, however, we encounter no felines, only a few ostriches and a splendid hyena. In this way we arrive at the Gudzani Dam, where there is water, but no animals drinking, so we take the S100 track, known for being the road of lions.

Along the route we notice an unsettling red-headed vulture perched at the top of a tree, a large lizard and a large herd of baboons, then … in the shade of a bush, three magnificent lions … bingo! We stop and turn off the car engine to observe the scene. We wait patiently and at a certain point one of the three gets up and comes towards us. It is a specimen no longer so young and one can tell from its not exactly fluid gait, but it does take a nice walk and we gradually follow it, so we can take some photos from very few meters … very good! A little later we successfully close the circle by passing back through the Satara Rest Camp, then we go west along the paved road H7 and in a short time we arrive at the Nsemani Dam pool.

Here there are a lot of cars stopped and immediately we understand that there is an important sighting … A large pride of lions (about twenty) has indeed gone to drink and naturally all the other animals have given them free rein … a pity only that this happens rather far away. Afterwards we continue on the H7 and, having noticed a few buffalo, we conquer the panoramic point of Bobbejaan Krans, which ranges from the top of a hill over the savannah and the underlying course of the Timbavati River, practically dry. From here we then take the dirt road S39, which follows the bends of the river, making, unfortunately, few sightings, if we exclude a few zebras, until we reach the Timbavati Picnic Area, preceded by a beautiful baobab.

Back on the road, at the end of a short stop, we continue along the river and in this way we encounter some kudus, as well as a few specimens of kori bustard, a large brown-plumaged bird, with black-and-white inserts, and a fine flock of storks perched on a large completely bare tree, before regaining the asphalt of the H1-4, which we take to follow northwards. In this way, by means of a long bridge, we cross the spectacular course of the Olifant River, on whose very green banks many animals stand, and we leave the Mpumalanga province to enter that of Limpopo. We pass by the panoramic point of Nwamanzi and subsequently we make our entrance into the Olifant Rest Camp, so as to have lunch and enjoy the panorama from the appropriate terrace over one of the most beautiful bends of the Olifant River, while around us birds of a thousand colors flutter and below hippos scamper about.

When the itinerary resumes, along the S44 track, we pass by another couple of panoramic points over the Olifant River, then we take to following the course of one of its tributaries: the Letaba River. We transit beside the Von Wielligh's Baobab, on which the homonymous character (a surveyor) carved his name in 1891 and then, still flanking the river, we encounter a beautiful herd of elephants. In this way we skim the Letaba Rest Camp and immediately after we take a dirt road that takes us to Mantambeni Hide, an observation point over the Letaba River, interesting but not exciting. On the way back from Mantambeni Hide, at a certain point, an elephant blocks our way and we lose a bit of time, so, having regained the paved road H1-6 we go speedily north, up to the Malopenyana pool.

Here there is a large group of pachyderms drinking and frolicking in the water, so we take the necessary photos of the case and then we promptly set off again, because it is getting really late. We must however reckon with a large elephant that completely obstructs the road and comes straight towards us, forcing us to reverse and wait for its convenience. This unforeseen event makes us lose more time and the chance to see the last pool of the day, but that's not all, because further on a third elephant momentarily blocks our way and in extremis (only ten minutes before closing) we manage to cross the gate of the Mopani Camp, which will host us for the concluding night inside the Kruger National Park.

They give us our chalet (an entire house all to ourselves) and then, under a splendid starry sky, we go to dinner in the camp restaurant, before carrying between the sheets the magnificent memories of another unforgettable day.

With the vacation now drawing to a close we prepare to spend the last of our very personal chapters inside the Kruger National Park. Shortly after 6:00 we thus leave the Mopani Camp, accompanied by a fiery dawn, and taking the S142 track we pass by two observation points over the nearby Tsende River … completely deserted, if we exclude a few rare hippos. Then following a loop that winds northwest of the camp we see a beautiful buffaloet, very close up, and a solitary hyena, then we beat a long stretch dotted with enormous termite mounds, without making any big sightings, and having regained the asphalt of road H1-6 we reach the point where the Tropic of Capricorn passes, marked by a small monument.

Immediately after we set off for another loop on dirt road, which crosses a particularly arid area, until we reach the Tihongonyeni Waterhole, where there are quite a few animals drinking, among which many zebras, a few elephants and a shy jackal. Continuing beyond this pool, in a more humid area populated by many pachyderms, we finally close a sort of circle, returning in view of the Mopani Camp, and there we take the paved road H14 that goes towards the exit of the park.

We stop again along the way at a detour onto the Letaba River, where we encounter a herd of zebras, and then at the Nandzama pool, in which we see a nice group of elephants, zebras and impalas, which seem to want to greet us, then we exit through the Phalaborwa Gate and, thinking about it, we leave the legendary Kruger National Park with many positive experiences, but without having encountered even a single rhino … and fortunately we saw it very well in other reserves. We refuel and then immediately set off towards the next destination, so, shortly before 13:00, we leave the Limpopo province to return to Mpumalanga and reach the vicinity of the Blyde Poort Dam, a large dam located in the lower part of the Blyde River Canyon, the third largest canyon in the world, with its 26 kilometers in length and eight hundred meters in depth.

The surrounding landscape, formed by reddish sandstone peaks, is very evocative and recalls the American west, so we take a few photos from the shores of the lake, at the mouth of the chasm, then we have lunch with our sandwiches before setting off again for the upper part of the canyon, which is "only" about a hundred kilometers away. Also temporarily returning to Limpopo we tackle the scenic Abel Erasmus Pass and then take road R532, which unfolds a short distance from the edge of the canyon. Doing so we arrive at the panoramic point of The Three Rondavels (paid) and, having parked the car, we can finally look out from above onto the impressive abyss formed by the Blyde River, which snakes several hundred meters further down.

The view is wonderful, despite a bit of haze, and leaves you breathless, with the rock formation of The Three Rondavels: three rounded bumps vaguely reminiscent of the local huts (rondavels), which literally dominates the scene. We enjoy the spectacle from the various terraces and then move a few kilometers to the Lowveld panoramic point, less important than the previous one, but still grandiose. From there, in a handful of minutes, we then reach the site of Bourke's Luck Potholes, where the small tributary Treurriver pours into the Blyde River forming a series of impressive gorges and chasms, unfortunately already in the shadow of the advanced afternoon. Back on the road, in a very green mountainous region, we then go to see some waterfalls, although the current season is the dry one and we cannot expect great flows.

Having parked the car we look out first of all over the Berlin Falls, a thread of water that pours from a beautiful rocky wall about eighty meters high, and then, a short distance away, over the Lisbon Falls, less spectacular although the highest in the province with its 94 meters, but still intriguing. From this last waterfall we finally set off, with the now long shadows of the evening, along road R534, which offers several panoramic viewpoints, but the semi-darkness and the haze do not allow us to enjoy the opportunities offered by the various Wonder View, God's Window and The Pinnacle. In this way we land in the town of Graskop, where we take lodging, for the last night in South Africa, in a cottage of the Log Cabin & Settlers Village.

We settle the suitcases, in view of tomorrow's departure home, and then we go out to dinner at the nearby Canimambo Restaurant, which in its own way positively accompanies us towards the epilogue of the vacation.

A "relaxed" wake-up shortly before 7:00 at the Log Cabin and after definitively settling the suitcases from there we set off for this last day in South Africa, which will take us to Johannesburg airport … however, we still have to play tourists for much of the morning. The mountainous area between Graskop, where we are, and the nearby town of Sabie, is famous for several waterfalls and we will go to seek them out, although, as already said, we are in the dry season and they will be poor in water. The first, which are located just outside Graskop and are called Panorama Falls are, today, totally dry, so we save the entrance ticket and go speedily towards the second.

Along the way we stop to see the modest Natural Bridge and then we arrive at the entrance of the Mac-Mac Falls, which will open their doors at 8:00 … Only ten minutes to go, but thanks to African punctuality we wait at least triple that. In the end we enter and, parking somewhat annoyed, from there we go to the presence of the waterfalls: a beautiful 65-meter drop in an attractive natural setting … not bad, but after everything we have seen in recent days … Having set off again we arrive in Sabie and immediately go to see the homonymous waterfall, located right below the bridge of the main road … nothing exceptional, but at least it stands out, being fully exposed to the sun.

In the surroundings of the town there are at least two other interesting waterfalls, so, also traveling on a dirt road, we go to the Bridal Veil Falls, which, rather arid, we settle for observing in the distance, then we approach the Lone Creek Falls, which instead deserve to be explored more closely. Having parked the car, with a short walk, we thus arrive at their base and there we practically conclude the extraordinary visits of this unforgettable journey. Now only the journey to get to Johannesburg remains: we thus descend from the mountains until we meet road number 4 that goes in that direction … just three hundred comfortable kilometers through the undulating landscape of these central regions of South Africa. We leave Mpumalanga to enter the Gauteng province, comprising the capital of the Rainbow Nation, and after having lunch in a service area we approach the destination.

We stop to fill up the faithful Vito, which shortly after we return to Avis. With it in South Africa we traveled the beauty of 6232 kilometers, largely dusty, so much so that it arrived a bit worn out, without a hubcap, and decidedly dirty, but above all intact at the finish line … thanks to it! We enter the Tambo International Airport, check in by boarding the suitcases directly to Bologna and then, after passing through customs and security checks, we wait for our flight (TK 043) at gate A6. There are no delays and when the first shadows of evening fall on Johannesburg, at 18:18, we detach from the ground aboard the Turkish Airlines Airbus A330 banking immediately northwards. Doing so, in a short time it becomes pitch dark and the new day dawns while we sail over the heart of the African continent.

Even before dawn breaks we have a premature breakfast, while below us the course of the legendary Nile snakes along, and a little later we begin our descent towards Istanbul, where we land at 3:19 local time. We therefore see the dawn from the halls of the large Turkish airport, in which we wait patiently for a long time before boarding the Turkish Airbus A320, identified as flight TK 1321, which, at 8:59, takes off towards Bologna. Along the route we fly over the Balkan peninsula and then we glide towards Italy to touch down at Marconi Airport at 10:05. We retrieve all our luggage safe and sound, then with the shuttle we regain the parking area and around 11:00 we are already traveling home in our car.

At 11:35 we exit the highway at Faenza and a quarter of an hour later, at 11:50, we happily conclude, in front of the gate of our home, this stupendous journey, a journey that ends, fully deserving, on the podium of all our experiences. A concentration of natural beauties and primordial emotions, through a magical territory (the Rainbow Nation), comprised between two oceans, at the antipodes of the African continent.