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LIBYAN ARAB JAMAHIRIYA · Africa

New Year 2004/2005

CACarlo ·49 photographs ·20 Dec 2004 – 11 Jan 2005 ·23 days
Where
When
20 Dec 2004 – 11 Jan 2005
23 days · trip of 2004
Who
Carlo Ranzani · @Carlo · Majano (UD)
How
Travel diary
The story · 6 days

Crew: Carlo 66 years old Driver Tina 64 years old Navigator/Interpreter Principessa 18 years old Persian cat Schizzo 14 years old European cat Motorhome: Mobilvetta Euroyact 180/X

This year, in June/July, we went to the North Cape, a destination coveted by many motorhomers but one I had never managed to reach; in my youth I had tried by car and tent, without success. After that trip, tired of Europe, we looked for farther and more adventurous destinations. On the internet I found a tour of Libya with an itinerary that fascinated me straight away; I contacted the agency, asked about the cost (€ ) and booked. The cats have always been with us, they have roamed far and wide all over Europe, so they could come to Africa too; for them we paid the crossing by ship (€ ) since they could not stay in the motorhome locked in the hold.

After loading the motorhome to an absurd degree with food, even though we had been told there would be no supply problems, the only advice was: don't bring alcohol or cured meats since it's a Muslim country; we would later discover that there were no problems with wine, you could bring it, you just had to avoid having it found at customs. Another tip was to bring an additional mounted spare wheel and various filters.

Day 120 Dec 2004

Majano – Florence – Autogrill – km. 0/394

Gaberoun lake: palms and reeds before sandy dunes
Gaberoun lake: palms and reeds before sandy dunes
Day 221 Dec 2004

Naples – Autogrill – Km. 454/848

Man standing on sand dune beside eroded volcanic rocks in the Sahara
Man standing on sand dune beside eroded volcanic rocks in the Sahara
Day 322 Dec 2004

Salerno – Port parking – km. 60/908

We arrived in the morning and went straight to the port, we were the first, then during the day all the others arrived, along the avenue leading to the center we refilled our water before boarding around 8.00 pm on the ship "Eurostar Valencia". Among the participants in the trip we met a couple from Tarcento (UD), a town 20 km from where we live, they too are not Friulians: we from Milan, they from Treviso.

After boarding and settling the campers, the problem of the cats arose, each placed in its own little cage, we should have housed them on the deck in cages next to dogs, not having the courage to abandon them in the cold and with unsociable neighbors, we tried to bring them into the cabin, found a very accommodating ship's officer who gave us permission, we immediately went to the cabin laden like refugees: with the little cages, the litter box for their needs, the little kennels for the cats to sleep in, the bags for us and with the provisions for the cats, the camera bag and various clothing. The four-bed cabin (two fold-down) with bathroom and shower is very comfortable, after dinner everyone to bed, the sea is calm, the crossing will be smooth.

Five tourists posing among rocks in front of desert rocky mountain, blue sky
Five tourists posing among rocks in front of desert rocky mountain, blue sky
Day 423 Dec 2004

Tunis port of "La Golette" – Parking in city center - km. 56/964

Quiet night, the cats a bit agitated but they didn't disturb, breakfast, a tour of the ship, a card game, lunch and then disembarkation at 4.00 pm. Tunisian customs chaotic and very disorganized, our guide who had already done this itinerary other times was not able to instruct us properly and many went astray, we paid 20+1 dinars in various taxes, a problem were the CB radios, forbidden in Tunisia, they were well hidden, but no one thought to remove the antennas, it was all resolved by an officer who requested all the devices put in a sack sealing it and registering it on a passport, we would retrieve them at the exit from Tunisia. Diesel refueling right after customs and a stop for the night in a nice parking lot.

Roman theatre of Leptis Magna, stone seats and columns by the sea
Roman theatre of Leptis Magna, stone seats and columns by the sea
Day 524 Dec 2004

Gabes – Youth village – km. 360/1324

Once out of Tunis we take the highway (1.50 + 1.90 dinars), then on ordinary roads, we begin to see landscapes very different from those we are used to, unfortunately we also notice a lot of dirt and when you stop swarms of children surround you asking for "bonbons" and the elderly chase them away even rudely so that they don't bother us, but they run off on one side only to come back on the other. In Gabes we don't find the place to stay for the night, a traffic officer on a motorcycle, very kind, accompanies us through the alleys of the town until we reach this Youth Village, settled in the courtyard under palm trees we manage to get water too.

It's Christmas Eve and even though here they don't celebrate since they are predominantly Muslim, someone asks to be able to go to a restaurant to spend this holiday of ours in company, the policeman himself calls and books dinner for all of us and goes further, he gets us the taxis that will take us to the restaurant and back (12 dinars). The restaurant was closed, they opened it only for us, it wasn't heated, everyone had dinner with jackets and windbreakers, all the same we ate well (50 dinars), in their way of course, they even offered us a cake with "Buon Natale" written on it in French.

Roman shell-shaped mosaic with two cupids, Bardo Museum, Tunis
Roman shell-shaped mosaic with two cupids, Bardo Museum, Tunis
Day 625 Dec 2004

Sabrata – km. 284/1608

The journey continues on ordinary roads, with the crossing of chaotic towns and poor villages.

Eurostar Valencia ferry in port at night, lights glowing on deck
Eurostar Valencia ferry in port at night, lights glowing on deck

The journey's photographs

49 photographs · click to open them full screen

▶ Slideshow
Campervans parked at Salerno harbor lot under street lampsLow sun over La Goulette port, cargo ship and industrial silosTunisia: men sitting near prickly pears and red peppers drying in the sunRoad sign to Ras Jedir and Tripoli, campervans parked on sandHand-painted green plate with Arabic writing, wired onto an old truck's grilleThrough the windshield, truck on asphalt desert road in Libya, dusty skyDriver in white turban steers the 4x4 across sand dunesWoman standing on sand among sandstone dunes, LibyaGaberoun lake: palms and reeds before sandy dunesUmm al-Maa lake amid sand dunes and date palms, Gaberoun, LibyaTuareg riders on adorned camels at the Ghat folklore festivalTourist standing among veiled Tuareg men in traditional robes, tea festival, LibyaGirls in traditional dress with jewelry at the Ghat festivalVeiled women holding decorated drums at night, Ghat falcon festivalTuareg guide leading camels loaded with luggage across desert sandGolden sand dunes in the Ubari desert, Gaberoun, bright morning lightMan standing on sand dune beside eroded volcanic rocks in the SaharaTourists lunching on carpet among sandy desert rocks in GhatCampervans and vans parked on sand in front of pink buildings, clear skyAncient mud-brick fortress atop a rocky arid hill, tourists on topTravelers around camper van and SUV among sand dunes, GhatGolden sand dunes at Ghat, airplane wreck near walking figuresMan in white turban serves meat on tray inside tent, tourists seated aroundDrummers sitting beside campervans, candles in the sand, GhatFive tourists posing among rocks in front of desert rocky mountain, blue skyPink Namib dunes with parked 4x4s and travelers on gravelWhite off-road vehicle raising dust among sandstone cliffs, AkakusCouple standing beneath a huge natural sandstone arch in the Akakus, LibyaWind-carved rock formations among golden sand dunes in the Akakus, LibyaConvoy of motorhomes parked on rocky desert ground under cloudy skyCamels grazing in the Libyan desert under scattered cloudsStone Arch of Septimius Severus over paved road among ruins, Leptis MagnaRoman theatre of Leptis Magna, stone seats and columns by the seaPalms and sand piles on Tripoli Green SquareVisitors beside the carved marble minbar of the Karamanli Mosque, TripoliMarcus Aurelius Arch in Tripoli, ancient stone among palms and minaretMunicipal foundry manhole cover in Tripoli, the MedinaGreat Man-Made River billboard showing trucks carrying concrete pipes across the desertTourist sitting among green marble columns in the Roman ruins of SabrathaBunches of dates hanging at a market stall under a wooden roofRoman shell-shaped mosaic with two cupids, Bardo Museum, TunisCouple of tourists at El Jem Colosseum, Roman stone ruins under sunny lightStone arches and columns inside the Ez Zitouna Mosque, warm lightingCraftsman engraving brass trays in Khan el-Khalili bazaar, among lanterns and platesCourtyard of the Zitouna Mosque in Tunis, marble columns and archesFerry Eurostar Salerno moored at dock, blue bow, mooring ropes, cloudy skyPassengers playing cards in the lit lounge of the MN European Odyssey ferryPassengers with cat cages in a ferry bar loungeEurostar Valencia ferry in port at night, lights glowing on deck

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