Venezuela

Venezuela is a country I know very well, having been there several times, including travelling on my own, but in 1992 I also took my wife there, just after we were married. I preferred this tour because I wanted to show her the beauty of Venezuela's interior — a bit tiring but very fascinating — and then relax in the crystal-clear waters of the islands at Morrocoy.

From Caracas an Avensa domestic flight takes us to Puerto Ordaz, where Steven from Keyla Tours awaits us, an agency made up of forest rangers who guide us through the territory of Canaima National Park.

Steven is a very strange character, a bit of a Mr Crocodile type, extremely friendly and well informed about everything to do with the surrounding area. His only flaw is that he drives truly appallingly; in the 4x4 he indulges in reckless manoeuvres that sometimes put our necks at risk.

The very vast territory (about 35,000 sq km) is inhabited mainly by indigenous peoples, especially along the banks of the Caroní river, which flows into the Orinoco, making the area full of gorges, waterfalls and lakes, as well as incredible vegetation, bordered by the beauty of the tepuis — sandstone mountains with vertical walls and a characteristic flat summit.

We cross the Caroní river on an iron bridge to head towards the Gran Sabana area, on the border with Brazil.

After stocking up on provisions (strangely, beer and rum are present in industrial quantities) we head to the base camp inside the Park. Our tent accommodation is comfortable, and the dinners by the fire with a group of six people speaking four different languages are almost beyond belief. Maybe it's the alcohol in our blood, but we talk a great deal among ourselves and, incredibly, we understand each other!!!

Before entering the Park we stop at the gold mines at El Callao, where, escorted by armed personnel, we have the chance to see how the precious metal is extracted and how it is worked by men and children.

The entrance to the Park is conventionally marked by the Piedra de la Virgen, a boulder that rises some twenty metres above the vegetation.

The interior of the Park is all to be discovered: travelling by canoe on the Río Kama to the Kama Merú waterfall, walking along the boulders of the Río Kukenán. The Quebrada de Jaspe (Kako-parú) is something spectacular: the waterfall itself isn't high, but the paving looks like a man-made work, entirely of polished red jasper (Jaspe actually means jasper). Removing any fragment of this precious material is absolutely forbidden.

We continue as far as the border with Brazil, passing through the indigenous community of San Francisco de Yuruani, reaching the Line, touching Brazilian soil, where they spray us with disinfectants and antiparasitics (a dreadful thing).

Heading back we take one last look at the beautiful Mount Roraima (about 2,700 m high) to make our way to Canaima, where a Cessna awaits to take us to Kavak, a village at the base of Ayuan Tepui. From there, guided by some indigenous people, we visit the Cueva, a fissure in the tepui reachable by swimming or canoe, right beneath a series of waterfalls. An experience you absolutely must have. After lunch at the village, we take the Cessna again to fly over Angel Falls, the highest waterfall in the world (about 1,000 m!!!) and there you simply surrender to so much beauty.

We promise ourselves we'll return one day, but coming by river all the way to the base of the fall.

We leave this part of Venezuela, so rich and wonderful, and head off under pouring rain towards Canaima, from where we continue towards Caracas. Tired but happy, we need some rest before going home, and what better rest than the white beaches of Morrocoy?

From Caracas, in about a 4-hour drive, we reach Morrocoy National Park, specifically Chichiriviche.

There isn't much to see, but from here you can arrange a boat trip to the beautiful islands of the archipelago, fringed with mangroves and coral reefs. Cayo Sombrero is stunning and wild, watched over by Park Rangers who protect its integrity. Sea, sun and palm trees are the only things to observe, along with the colourful aquatic wildlife.

With our batteries recharged, reluctantly, we head home….