Istanbul, an enchantment

The story

Thinking it might be welcome, I'm posting the notes I made before leaving for Istanbul. Ataturk Airport VISA "Others Nationalities" Below: metro to Zeytinburnu then tram 2 to Gulhane (1 token = YTL 1.30)

AKBIL x 1 day Gunluk = YTL 7.50 TURIST Inform. - SIRKECI on the left - S. Sophia Square

Exchange DOVIZ (1 euro = YTL 2.15 - YTL 1 = 0.50 euro) - tram tokens - phone card for public phones

Erboy Hotel - Sirkeci Group

Ebusuud Cad. No.32 - 34410 EMINONU Tel. 0090.2125.1337.50/51

Buy tickets for the Whirling Dervishes (30-45' before - U in the centre) show Wed-Fri

SULTANAHMET

TOPKAPI (h. 4) (First AREM h. 0.30) h. 9.00 (after the entrance on the left -30 at a time) - after the metal detector on the right = audio guide - lunch at the Konyali (lamb kebab) not cheap/magnificent view tel. 2125139696

ARCHEOLOJI MUZELER near Topkapi

HAGIA SOPHIA (Aya Sofya) h. 1

after the entrance on the left = gallery

HASEKI URREM BATHS in S. Sophia Square

BLUE MOSQUE (h. 0.30)

you go out from the other side, bring your shoes with you

BASILICA CISTERN (Yerebatan Sarnii) h. 0.40

Little HAGIA SOPHIA - Kucuk Sofya Camii

Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque

HIPPODROME (Atmeydani)

CISTERN OF THEODOSIUS (free entry)

WALLS of Theodosius

BAZAAR QUARTER

GRAND BAZAAR (Kapali carsi = covered market) - go at opening at 9.00 -19 - tram stop Beyazit

BEYAZIT CAMII (mosque of Beyazit)

COLUMN of CONSTANTINE at Chamberlitas

AQUEDUCT of VALENS at the end of Divan Yolu

EMINONU

SPICE/EGYPTIAN MARKET (Misir Carsisi) (chocolates: madlen and baklavi)

SULEYMANYE CAMII (Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent)

Under restoration - you only see the cemetery h. 9.30 - 17.30

RUSTEN PASA CAMII (Mosque of Rustem Pasha)

YENI CAMII (New Mosque)

WESTERN QUARTERS

CHURCH OF CHORA - Kariye Muzesi very far from Eminonu Bus 38 from the Grand Bazaar - stop Edirnekapi 14th-century mosaics and frescoes, very beautiful

GALATA - BEYOGLU - TAKSIM

GALATA TOWER - beautiful in the evening - closes at h. 18.30

ISTIKLAL CADDESI (Independence Avenue)

TAKSIM Square (funicular from Kabatas -Dolmabache)

DOLMABACHE SARAY h. 1.30 (tram to the terminus) - guided tour compulsory - superb, boundless, it's the end of the world

SINAN PASA Mosque (just behind the palace)

CIRAGAN Palace

BOSPHORUS CRUISE 32 km

"Bous poros" = place crossed by the cows" Ferry NB. Be there at least by 9.30 Eminonu pier 3 Bogaz Iskelesi Departure- h. 10.30 and 13.35 - duration 1.45 arrival h. 12.20 - stop h. 2.00 - - return expected by h. 16 - 16.30 Round trip ITL 17.50 (about 10 euros) If you get off earlier, then you have to buy another ticket Stops: Besiktas-Kanlica- Yenikoy-Seriyer Rumeli Kavagi-Anandolu Cavagi (at Anandolu C. visit the fortress)

ORTAKOY = Middle Village

- by ferry from Eminonu pier 3 - by tram to Beyoglu as far as the terminus + Bus 25 E to Besiktas? - by taxi YTL 15? - BOSPHORUS SUSPENSION BRIDGE - MECIDIY CAMII (Mosque of Mecit)

Little dictionary

Venues: Kebapci = cheap restaurants-grilled meat Lokanta = modest restaurant Pideci = pizzeria ocakbasi = cooked to order

Food

- borek: savoury spiced filled puff pastry - kebab: chicken/lamb wrapped in flatbread - kofte: beef meatballs - Kofteci = grilled meatballs - kumpir: stuffed baked potatoes - meze: starters - midye dolmasi: mussels stuffed with rice - pide: pizza - testi kebab: beef/chicken/lamb stew cooked in a clay pot then broken open

Drinks

- ayran: refreshing yoghurt-based drink - tea = cai - raki: anise-flavoured alcoholic drink

Desserts

- madlen = chocolates - tea = cai - borek: savoury spiced filled puff pastry - baklava: baked sweets with walnuts, pistachios - kumpir: stuffed baked potatoes - kebab: chicken or lamb wrapped in flatbread - ayran: refreshing yoghurt-based drink - lokum: cubes of sweetened jelly - pide: pizza - kofte: beef meatballs - irmik helva: dessert - meze: starters - raki: anise-flavoured alcoholic drink