A journey through Andalusia

Then departure by train for the last leg, Granada. We arrive after about 3 hours of travel and reach the Hotel Carlos V in Plaza de los Campos, a lovely small tree-lined square with a fountain in the centre, a few minutes from the monuments and the Alhambra; the hotel is on the 5th floor of a building (83 euros a night); the room is very similar to the one we had in Seville; the hotel has free wifi; the welcome is friendly and the staff very helpful; at reception there is even an Italian girl. We settle in and around 22 go to dinner in the area of Calle Reyes Católicos, with a typical Seville menu.

1 April: first of all we go to the tourist office, which is nearby, but the material is scarce; then a stroll around the centre; we go to Calle Reyes Católicos and Gran Vía de Colón, very lively streets full of shops; the impression is of a city much livelier than Seville; we reach the Cathedral, which faces onto the Gran Vía. The Cathedral dates from the 16th century (entry 3 euros + audio guide), built on the site of a pre-existing mosque (late Gothic style); the interior is very vast, divided into five naves; of particular note is the Capilla Mayor, consisting of a retablo with both painted and carved decoration, depicting the apostles and the life of the Virgin; also notable is the Retablo del Ecce Homo.

The visit lasts about 2 hours, so we walk around the building, pausing at the main façade and the various doors; we notice in particular the Puerta del Perdón, with Plateresque-style decoration, with biblical sculptures and fantastic animals that seem a little grotesque; the last we see is the Puerta del Colegio. We continue our walk through the nearby streets, go to the Alcaicería, once an Arab market, now an ordinary row of tourist shops, and to the Plaza Bib-Rambla, a large square (it was the square of the Inquisition's burnings) surrounded by trees with fountains, restaurants, tables and flower stalls that give it a very colourful look; the surroundings too are full of lanes and shops where it is pleasant to stroll.

In the afternoon we visit the Capilla Real (3 euros), next to the cathedral; the interior is Baroque style; the Catholic Monarchs are displayed in the crypt in simple lead coffins; very beautiful is the wrought-iron grille (Plateresque art) with scenes from the life of Christ and John the Evangelist; also of great interest is the Retablo Mayor with scenes from the life of Christ, the Trinity and the capture of Granada, with the figures of Ferdinand and Isabella praying at the sides. The Museum, housed in the sacristy, has interesting works including Botticelli and Perugino, as well as works by important Flemish painters. We continue our visit of the city, passing the Palacio de la Madraza, with an interesting mihrab inside, and the Corral del Carbón, one of the oldest monuments in all of Andalusia.

Then, now tired, we return towards the hotel and discover that right in front of it passes route 31, served by a minibus, which loops around the Alhambra and the Albaicín; we immediately buy a multi-trip card (5 euros); the ride is interesting and allows a fine panoramic view of the Albaicín as it passes among the typical white houses. You also enjoy magnificent views of Granada and the Alhambra.

2 April: We head to the Plaza Campo del Príncipe, which we had only seen in the evening, a lovely tree-lined square with a fountain surrounded by outdoor restaurants; then, practically two steps from the hotel, the Church of Santo Domingo, a 16th-century Gothic church with a Baroque interior, once the seat of the Inquisition (the burnings were in the Plaza Bib-Rambla); the square in front is full of students (it is close to a university college with a magnificent cloister with lemon trees inside); we take the road to the Alhambra, then return by bus along Calle Reyes Católicos; we then decide to head for the Plaza Nueva; overlooking the square are the Real Cancillería and the church of Santa Ana, a Mudéjar-style work; at this point we decide to take bus 30 for a ride in the Sacromonte, once a gypsy quarter; the district lies on a hill dominating the Darro river.

On the way back we visit the church of San Juan de Dios (1737), Baroque style, with the retablo of the Capilla Mayor inside; the façade has two tall bell towers with valuable sculptures. Lunch at the Pizzeria Lago di Como in the Plaza Campo del Príncipe, run by friendly Italians who are now Spanish citizens; Italian menu with rice and vegetables and spinach, mixed salad, ham, coffee, wine and beer. For the evening we have them prepare green asparagus (it's the season) and Andalusian lamb.

In the afternoon we visit the Albaicín; from the Plaza Nueva we take the Carrera del Darro, a narrow street along the river of the same name; we head for the Arab baths of El Bañuelo, but they are closed for renovation; we continue along the narrow streets with white houses; we see the Casa de Castril (Plateresque-style façade), believed to be part of an Islamic palace, now home to the Islamic school; we decide to take the bus (31) to reach the various terraces; we arrive at the Mirador de San Nicolás and the church of the same name, from which there is a magnificent view of the Alhambra and the still snow-capped Sierra mountains; it feels as if you are on a terrace; people crowd to take photos (us too); we sit on the low wall and have a fresh fruit juice at the kiosk; then we go to the Plaza Larga, naturally passing along the characteristic streets of the district; we then reach the chur

ch of San Salvador and visit it with its fine cloister, then to the Plaza San Miguel Bajo, with its pretty white church, where we sit at an outdoor bar. We then find a stop for bus 31, which takes us back in front of the hotel. In the evening, around 21.30, at the usual restaurant Lago di Como, with the menu we had ordered, but we also treated ourselves to a pizza and spaghetti. 5 April: departure with Ryanair