Seville, Cordoba and Granada

SEVILLE CORDOBA GRANADA

Since the temperature was mild, in October, my husband and I opted for a one-week holiday in Andalusia. Destinations of the trip: Seville, Cordoba and Granada. Departure on 07/10/2007 with a Vueling flight from Rome Fiumicino direct to Seville; the first two nights had already been booked in Granada on Octopustravel. On arrival in Seville, the first and only hitch: the last train of the day from Santa Justa station to Granada was full… panic… what to do? After a quick search we rented a Fiat Punto from Avis, the only company that asked us a fair price, 135 euros for two days.

Bags loaded in a hurry, we "launched" ourselves onto the motorway heading for Granada, aware that we would arrive exhausted after 150 km traveled from Grosseto (where we live) to the airport, the whole airport rigmarole for the flight and the flight itself, and to top it all off another 250 km to reach our place of rest. As soon as we approached the city, the traffic dealt us the final blow; at 9:30 pm in Spanish cities it's rush hour, among scooters, pedestrians, cars, buses, ambulances and traffic lights that stay red for 15 minutes, I thought we wouldn't get out alive.

After an hour of searching we found the hotel, fairly central, paid 158 euros with a hearty breakfast included; the rooms were nothing special but at that moment we paid relatively little attention because our eyes were already closed! The next day we visited the Alhambra and the Generalife without queuing thanks to booking in advance; this allowed us to use the other half of the day to visit the Albaicin and the city centre. All unmissable!!!!! On Tuesday morning we set off again with our Punto and returned to Seville; here too, on entering the city, total chaos; because of an accident we queued for an hour with a helicopter hovering over our heads and with lorries that were just short of climbing onto our roof!! After returning the car we booked (this time Renfe didn't trick us) the train to Cordoba for Friday.

We easily found the Don Pedro, booked on Venere, located in Calle Gerona in the Macarena district near the centre, and paid 82 euros per night per room (not very expensive compared to others). The hotel is very characterful since you reach the rooms from the inner patio and it is decently furnished; it doesn't offer breakfast but provides free hot drinks from the machine; moreover, about 300 m away is the city's most famous pastry shop (la Campana). Pastries and cakes are a delirium for the taste buds and the eyes. The only downside of the Don Pedro is that the coming and going of fellow guests at all hours of the day and night is rather noisy!!!! On Tuesday afternoon we got acquainted with the city centre and visited the area around the University and the famous Hotel Alfonso XIII and the Murillo gardens.

On Wednesday, a visit to the Cathedral and Giralda, the Real Alcazar (an explosion of colours) and the Archive of the Indies, Santa Cruz. At 9 pm a Flamenco show at the Casa de la Memoria, decidedly evocative also because the small venue makes the relationship between artists and audience very intimate. On Thursday we visited the Plaza del Toros, the Torre del Oro, the Triana district where they sell fantastic ceramics wholesale; I couldn't resist and we loaded ourselves up with pots and crockery…… but what an effort to carry them to the hotel! In the afternoon, Plaza de España (definitely worth seeing) and Parque Maria Luisa. At 8:00 pm we tried the Arab Baths experience… we liked it.

One hour and 20 minutes of pure well-being, 3 pools at different temperatures in a soft-lit setting with relaxing music, salt bath, turkish bath with aromatherapy and a killer hydromassage that drains thighs, glutes, back, belly and arms all at once!! We came out relaxed and with the pain in our legs and feet gone. Just what we needed!!! Technical information: bring only your swimsuit; they provide towel and slippers—oh, I almost forgot, also a 1 euro coin for the locker, otherwise it doesn't lock. On Friday, a visit to Cordoba, reached after only about 1 hour by train; a visit to the Mezquita, beautiful and able to express well the power that Islam once had in southern Spain.

The rest of the day was spent strolling in the very charming centre where we discovered marvellous Patios: brick arches, colourful tiles, orange and lemon trees and flower pots enrich these quiet and hidden little corners; the inhabitants deliberately leave the doors ajar; try knocking, and if no one answers, open the door slightly—sometimes the surprise is enchanting! Saturday, the last day: shopping. Purchases around Calle Sierpes where you find traditional shops and well-known chains. In the traditional shops (Diaz, Foronda) I bought a shawl and a hand-painted silk stole (30 euros, not even that much), a hand-painted fan at my mum's request and castanets. For the "chains", we opted for the Spanish ones, Blanco for me and Springfield for my husband.

At the supermarket we also got three bottles of Vino Fino of Andalusian production, previously tasted in a "Taparia": dry, strong, fruity… to take home for some good feasting! Last purchase: at the Convent of Santa Ines (near our hotel) we bought the sweets made by the nuns… delicious! You have to enter a courtyard and ring the bell; if the nuns are not at prayer (the day before they didn't answer) they sell the sweets through an impenetrable window with sliding compartments; you put money in one compartment and the sweets come out in the other! The list is next to the bell and I found out from a regular customer that the nun usually in charge of "customer service" is called Hermana and that the best sweets are the Santa Ines biscuits. I too would have become a regular customer, too bad Hermana is so far away….

Saturday 13 October, for my husband's birthday, we treated ourselves to a dinner with Paella, fried fish and a cheese dessert, all washed down with big beers; the restaurant is in Santa Cruz near the Alcazar, it's called La Cueva and it's in one of the most characteristic little squares, so much so that, while we were dining, as many as 7 newlywed couples took photos and filmed on the bench next to us! I recommend it: the food is good, it's pretty, it doesn't cost much (55 euros for 2)… and it has the menu in Italian.

On the other evenings, to eat, we dived into the tapas bars, two in particular: El Rinconcillo in Calle Gerona, the oldest in the city, and La Giralda, my favourite (near the monument), with generous and extremely tasty little dishes (the top one is called flamenchito); they write the bill with chalk on the counter and off you go!!! The trip was wonderful, also thanks to the weather, always sunny and warm (32 degrees) which accompanied us.

The best memories of the holiday are, as always, in the small details: the azulejos with their particular designs and vivid colours, the patios, the fragrant flowers, the lemon trees found everywhere in the streets, squares and alleys, the lively chatter of schoolgirls going to school in uniform with knee-length checked skirts, knee socks and loafers, the cheerfulness of Spaniards talking away outside the bars until late in the evening; all this makes these places unique for their typicality. Happy travels and see you next time from Marco and Simona