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PORTUGAL · Europe

The Sun-Drenched Wind of Lisbon

PRpriss ·93 photographs ·1 May 2004 – 6 May 2004 ·6 days
Where
Lisbon
When
1 May 2004 – 6 May 2004
6 days · trip of 2004
Who
Laura Ciranna · @priss · Catania
How
Travel diary
The story

Five days in a decidedly different European capital: slow, melancholic and thoughtful. Beaten by the wind and full of light. Retro yet smiling. Perfect for a quiet holiday as a couple.

Perfectly visitable even in a short time: in less than a week you can still allow yourself the luxury of seeing it all without rushing, from Rossio to Rua Augusta, with a few stops at Café A Brasileira, where Pessoa used to linger. Absolutely unmissable is the visit to the São Jorge Castle: it is simply ruins, but you can lean out in every direction and admire incredible views.

The whole city, after all, is one continuous up and down... built entirely on steep hills, and it is wonderful to clamber up aboard its wooden trams. Highly recommended is buying the tram pass, which can be purchased at Praça da Figueira, cheaper than the city passes sold at the airport and absolutely practical. For those who love walking, I recommend going down from the castle to the Sé Patriarcal Cathedral. In fact another must is the Alfama district: rough and working-class, but full of smells and colours for unique emotional synaesthesia.

One warning: the Portuguese are really hard to understand! When you read it you understand it easily, but when it comes to speaking... things change! Although I speak English and French very well and a somewhat pidgin Spanish but functional, at times the only way to order what we wanted to eat was to point at it directly! This even in the main pastry shop in the centre (the Confeitaria Nacional), but the Portuguese are patient and in the end you get what you want!

The Torre de Belém is very beautiful, reachable also by tram; moreover, right in the town of Belém you absolutely must not miss the visit to the Jerónimos Monastery: entry to the church is free, while to enter the cloister there is an entrance ticket, but it is absolutely worth it since it is a true jewel of Manueline art!

The journey's photographs

93 photographs · click to open them full screen

▶ Slideshow
Sorride davanti alla piazza gialla con archi e castello, LisbonaUomo sorridente davanti a Praça do Comércio, Lisbona, luce solare intenseFacciata decorata con azulejos e balconi in ferro battuto, Ristorante Tavares, LisbonaPalazzo con facciata in azulejos blu e bianchi, luminoso cielo azzurroFacciata in maioliche del Tavares, ristorante a Lisbona, con balconi in ferro battutoPannello di azulejos con figura femminile e scritta "Água" su facciata lisboneseFacciata in azulejos con figure allegoriche, Casa do Ferro das Bandeiras, LisbonaWoman before the red Gothic church portal with tree and cobblestonesChafariz del Carmo, padiglione in pietra con archi e corone scolpiteArchi in pietra scolpita contro il cielo, LisbonaPortale gotico del Carmo tra rami spogli e luce pomeridiana a LisbonaVia Augusta con il castello di San Giorgio sulla collinaBaixa con tram giallo e Castello di San Giorgio sulla collinaDalla finestra del tram, le strade salgono tra case lisbonensiSão Vicente de Fora monastery above Alfama rooftops, LisbonChiesa bianca col campanile sopra i tetti di Lisbona sul TagoTetti rossi di Alfama sull'estuario del Tago, LisbonaPannelli di azulejos blu con Santa Luzia su una parete bianca di LisbonaTwo men sitting under a stone-and-wood pergola overlooking the riverMen chatting under a grapevine pergola on azulejo-tiled columnsGreen tram with Carlsberg advertising turning along a Lisbon street25 de Abril Bridge over the Tagus, Lisbon rooftops under white cloudsWoman beside a cast-iron cannon at São Jorge Castle above LisbonLisbon: Santa Justa Lift and Carmo Convent among red rooftopsWoman petting a stone lion statue on the cobblestonesCrenellated stone tower of São Jorge Castle in LisbonCrenellated walls of São Jorge Castle in Lisbon with waving flagCrenellated stone tower of São Jorge Castle against white cloudsStone battlement tower with flag, Lisbon rooftops and 25 de Abril bridgeArrow slit in stone tower of São Jorge Castle, Lisbon rooftops belowSmiling woman among limestone ruin walls under a cloudy skyLisbon rooftops and buildings seen from São Jorge Castle stone wallsLisbon seen through the Gothic stone arch of São Jorge CastleMan leaning on medieval castle walls of São Jorge, LisbonSão Vicente de Fora monastery in Lisbon with red rooftops and Tagus riverTourist walking along the battlements of São Jorge Castle, golden stone under blue skyWoman behind black iron bars inside an old prison cellStone facade with battlements and Gothic window under a cloudy skyFortified stone facade of Lisbon Cathedral, rose window and crenellated towersRomanesque facade with twin crenellated towers and stone rose window, tram wires over LisbonTourist on the stone cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery, shadows and gothic archesWoman leaning on marble columns of Pena cloister, blue azulejo tilesRed tourist trams in front of yellow arcaded buildings at Praça do Comércio, LisbonLisbon rooftops with the Sé Cathedral under a blue skySão Jorge Castle above Lisbon's rooftops under a blue skySão Jorge Castle overlooks Lisbon's red rooftops under a blue skyGreen tiled facade with dentist signs in LisbonYellow "Prótese" sign above a door with painted dentures, green tiled facadeRua Augusta Arch in Lisbon, stone clock and statues against blue skyYellow funicular with graffiti descends Lisbon's steep Bica hillTraveler in corduroy jacket in front of Rua Augusta Arch, Lisbon, eveningSmiling woman in black coat under the Rua Augusta Arch in Lisbon at duskDilapidated facade with red scaffolding and blue tarps, Alfama district, LisbonGirl with sunglasses on a terrace, behind Lisbon rooftops and the castleWhite church with red door in Lisbon, decorated with colorful paper garlandsWhite baroque church facade with red and turquoise garlands against blue skyGothic stone window overlooking the Tagus River and Lisbon buildingsWoman standing before the Gothic ruins of Convento do Carmo, LisbonBaroque organ under red and gold frescoed vault, light from basilica windowsDim Romanesque cathedral interior, wooden pews and visitors near altarConvento do Carmo, Lisbon: roofless Gothic stone arches against a blue skyWoman in jeans beside a carved gothic stone niche with a sculpted tombGothic arches of the Convento do Carmo facade in Lisbon against blue skyGothic stone arches of the Carmo Convent in Lisbon against blue skyGothic stone vault and tall pointed windows flooding the hall with white lightWoman in black jacket on Praça do Comércio cobblestones, tram and yellow buildingRossio Station in Lisbon, stone facade lit at night with Moorish archesSmiling woman in leather jacket outside Caixa Geral de Depósitos bank at nightCarved stone facade of the Jerónimos Monastery, saints' statues under blue skyCarved stone pillar and gothic vaulted ceiling, Jerónimos Monastery, dim lightStone fan vaults and a glowing rose window inside the Jerónimos Monastery, LisbonSmiling woman leaning out of ornate carved stone window, Jerónimos Monastery, LisbonJerónimos Monastery cloister: carved stone columns, man sitting on the benchTourist in the Manueline cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery, LisbonMan beside the lion fountain in the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos cloisterCarved stone saint statue on the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon, against blue skyMan touches water from the lion fountain in the Jerónimos cloister, LisbonWoman in the Manueline cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery, LisbonManueline cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon, carved stone columnsWoman beside blue and yellow azulejo tiles, warmly lit church wallInside the Jerónimos Monastery church, stone vaults and lit altarManueline cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery, Lisbon, carved stone columnsManueline cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon, limestone spires against blue skyCouple in the Jerónimos Monastery cloister, carved Manueline limestone in LisbonJerónimos Monastery in Lisbon, carved pale stone, tourists walking under blue skyBelem Tower in stone stone beside lawns and river, tourists strolling byTourists walk past the stone Belém Tower under a clear blue skyTourist on the Belém Tower terrace, carved stone and sea in the backgroundTourist among the stone spires of Belém Tower, sea and ships behindWoman leaning on the stone balcony of Belém Tower, LisbonSmiling couple by the Tagus river, Cristo Rei statue in the background, LisbonCouple smiling on white battlements of Belém Tower, bridge over TagusThe Rua Augusta stone arch at Praça do Comércio, Lisbon, under a blue sky

2 reader comments

viagem · 30/08/2006

Laura, non mi hai parlato dei pasteis de Belem!!! Non dirmi che non li hai assaggiati! La pasticceria che c'è a Belem, rivestita di azulejos... Vabbè, ti perdono perchè hai linkato delle belle foto. Ciao! Alby - viagem -

priss · 31/08/2006

vero Alberto! quei pasticcini sono buonissimi! fra le altre cose sono molto più buoni di quelli che vendono alla confitaria nacional in centro a Lisbona. Un unico neo: nella pasticceria di Belem al momento di servirteli ti ci schiaffano sopra un quintale di cannella... Comunque veramente deliziosi, peccato che non si mantengano molto a lungo, ci è stato così impossibile portarli fino a catania per farli assaggiare agli amici!

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