In search of relaxation in the free hot springs of Tuscia.
Accommodation: Camper Budget: 50E diesel, 90E groceries, 6E motorways Places to recommend: Terme di Tolfa, Caldara di Manziana, the free hot springs of Viterbo, La Ficoncella in Civitavecchia.
Day 16 Apr 2012
Departure
20:30: The adventure of accidental campers begins. After doing a small grocery shop we filled the water tank and set off. The first trip, the first destination, Tolfa and its beautiful thermal pools. The journey on the motorway proceeds calmly, cruising at about 90 km/h with very little traffic. We arrive at our destination at 1:00 at night, where, after the first little fish dinner in the camper, we change and go to relax in the fantastic and very hot thermal waters. We get out of the pools at 5 in the morning, and prepare for the first night's sleep in the camper.
Bagnarello...the awakening
Day 27 Apr 2012
Il Rispeglio
13:20: What little remained of the night passed quietly, apart from at 6 in the morning when the owner of a little house nearby had the good idea to show up to feed the 200 dogs he had, you can imagine the joy of the dogs.................but not ours, for our ears. Anyway, once awake, we get up and go back into the pools for a morning "dip" and to decide on the new destination. Talking also with a friendly fellow from Buca, we learn about the famous Manziana caldara, and we decide to go there.
We set the satnav and off we go; in about an hour we find ourselves in Manziana, where first we stop for a little wander and a small grocery shop in the town and then head towards the caldara, that is towards what was once a volcanic crater and is now a lunar expanse with a small geyser at its centre........very evocative, but unfortunately the water there comes out at only about 20 degrees, so cold for a nice relaxing bath, and so we decide to go and see the Stigliano thermal baths that we had seen on the road. We thought they were free but once we arrived we realise that they are not free, in fact I'd say luxurious, with a beautiful hotel surrounded by greenery, a very well-kept park, in short.....the camper looked out of place in the car park, and so with the laptop and the connection that comes and goes, we decide to head towards Viterbo, to the Bagnaccio thermal baths.
As we approach the thermal baths we realise we have arrived at our destination more from the number of campers parked than from the steam of the boiling waters. We decide to nibble something for dinner and right after we go to relax in the pool until late at night.
Bagnarello
Day 38 Apr 2012
Spas of Viterbo and Civitavecchia (Easter)
Time: 11:00: We wake up earlier than usual, "strangely," and as per custom we take a little stroll to see what the Bagnaccio thermal baths and the nearby Piscine Carletti look like during the day. We decide not to take a dip there that morning but to go see the other thermal springs, namely those of the Zitelle, where there's only the thermal spring, those of the Bullicame, which are very similar to the Bagnaccio of the previous evening but where only 2 out of 5 pools are usable and therefore full of campers, and those of the Masse di San Sisto, but they require an annual subscription of 30 Euros + 20 for camper parking, so on someone's recommendation we decide to go see those of Civitavecchia, La Ficoncella, where you pay next to nothing and they are very beautiful and suggestive since they are located on the summit of a hill and overlook the landscape below, namely the port of Civitavec
chia and therefore the sea, so we start up the Ford Transit again and set off toward Civitavecchia, destination La Ficoncella. We arrive around 4:00, the weather isn't the best, the sun begins to peek through the clouds and a tremendous wind picks up—it would be wonderful if you were at the sea with a windsurf board, but standing up there on that hilltop in a bathrobe, I'd say it was quite annoying. We take courage and, acting casual, try to get into a pool, but a lady as charming as a broken toaster persistently reminds us with a "GUUUUUUUYS" that we have to shower before entering, so even more casually we go take a shower and right after, into the pool.
Amaziing!!! The strong wind doesn't let us stay outside the water, so we stay soaking, immersed up to our chins, waiting either for the wind to stop, or to faint from the heat, or for the rain to come, and so after about an hour, there it is, the cursed rain that gives us the courage to hastily get dressed and escape into the camper where I promptly turn on the generator so we can immediately dry off with the hairdryer, since the breeze that was blowing was not spring-like at all, in fact I'd say it was wintry.
Fortunately in 5 minutes the camper was already nice and warm thanks to the hairdryer, so we change at our leisure and have a snack based on sole......well, we treat ourselves well:-) After the hearty meal and a few photos, we decide to head back home, destination Rome, Terry's house, and so the thermal weekend ends and Easter Monday begins, everyone to Colle Romito for a nice BBQ.
Moon-like landscape at Manziana
Day 49 Apr 2012
Easter Monday
Time 12:30: I'm woken by knocks on the camper, I try to communicate in some dead language but I'm not listened to, so once I come out of the camper I see that they had already gone grocery shopping, and so knowing that on the way there it's convenient but on the way back uphill with the bags much less so, I go to meet them along the road to their great pleasure. Back home the preparations begin, the BBQ is lit, chairs are set out in the garden and we lie in the sun eating, drinking and smoking....................basically Happy Easter Monday to everyone!!!!! After the endless big lunch and liters of wine, like good health enthusiasts we take a walk on the beach, 5 min, a little gelato, a little coffee and off we go.....here we go, weekend over. We park the camper, shut off the gas cylinder and wait for the next weekend for the next trip.....for the next dream!
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