Back to Rimini

I went to Rimini with Rita from 17 to 30 August 2011. I wanted to enjoy the classic beach life, putting my backpack aside, mindful also of memories of the past, and I even planned to visit the surroundings, but I hadn't reckoned with the African heat of that period. Rimini hasn't changed much: the big beach, the well-equipped bathing establishments, holidaymakers playing five-a-side football and beach volley, the seafront, viale Regina Elena with its tourist shops, a pity that the pavements have to be shared with cyclists. I noticed that the average age of tourists has gone up and that some restaurants display menus in Russian. Rimini doesn't offer much to young people; in fact, in the evening they move to Riccione and Gabicce, where the most "in" clubs are located, also using the number 11 line that connects Rimini's historic centre to Riccione and runs all night.

In the morning we enjoyed beach life, while in the evening we often went to watch the debates of the MobyCult festival, held in a marquee on the pier, near the ever-popular Dolphinarium; in the tent young authors presented their books, but well-known faces from TV talk shows also took part. The presentation is followed by a debate. It is an event held every year and I find it very interesting; some bathing establishments also organise talks and debates with guests, product tastings, dances and fireworks. During that period the annual Meeting was being held at the Fair. It is very large, with many young people; in the various sections conferences and meetings are held, and in the vast pavilions there are sponsor stands, bars and restaurants, and exhibitions with young people acting as guides.

Rimini, however, is not only sea and beach or conferences: it also has a notable historic centre and an artistic heritage not to be missed. With Rita I reached the historic centre by bus 11, then, following a pedestrian street, I arrived at the Tempio Malatestiano, the best-known monument, built to a design by Leon Battista Alberti. Restoration work is under way; fortunately the splendid marble facade is fully visible, the rest is covered, inside too, the ceiling is covered, the interior is large, a single nave with side chapels, with notable works of art; among the most important I mention a crucifix attributed to Giotto on the apse, and in the chapels you can admire, among others, a fresco by Piero della Francesca, the bas-reliefs by Agostino di Duccio and a canvas by Vasari.

Continuing along the pedestrian street, we reach Piazza Tre Martiri, a square partly adorned with capitals, very peaceful, with shops and bars with outdoor tables, pedestrianised, dominated by the Clock Tower; on the same side is the Tempietto of St Anthony of Padua, a small and original 16th-century octagonal structure that from a distance looks like a closed newspaper kiosk. The square is crossed by Corso Augusto, which links two great works placed at its two ends that recall the city's Roman origins: the Arch of Augustus and the Bridge of Tiberius, which still today connects Rimini to San Giuliano. Walking along Corso Augusto is pleasant; if from the square you head towards the Arch, the look is rather modern with elegant designer shops, whereas towards the Tiberius bridge the city shows a more ancient face; nearby is Piazza Cavour.

Piazza Cavour is considered the city's drawing room; the rectangular square is surrounded by buildings that I take to be Renaissance, the oldest being the Palazzo dell'Arengo although over time it has undergone many changes. The best thing, it seemed to me, is the Fontana della Pigna (16th century), formed of three concentric circles on three levels, from different periods, with Romanesque bas-reliefs; the pine cone on top of the fountain is from the 19th century, beside it a 17th-century statue of Pope Paul V. In the same area is the church of S. Agostino, of Romanesque origin (13th century); it has undergone many changes over time, it has a single nave inside and seemed to me to be in baroque style; in the chapel near the apse you can admire magnificent frescoes, unfortunately in poor condition, but they are among the most beautiful things I have seen.

We also visited the Museum to see the temporary exhibition "La sapienza Risplende", where paintings and wooden sculptures depicting Madonnas saved from the earthquake in Abruzzo were on display. A few steps from the museum is an archaeological area where many surgical instruments used at the time were found. A few practical notes: train journey with the Freccia Bianca, the new name of the intercity, lasting about 4.30 hours (Mini tickets) Hotel: Hotel Augustus, good, 60 euro per day full board, beach sunbeds included I used only public transport. Ferny Forner