Iceland, land of ice with a heart of fire

Curti-Rome-London-Keflavik

Today we wake up very early, at 4, after preparing the last things we are already in the car. Getting to Rome Ciampino is very easy, once you're on the GRA it's one of the first exits. At the airport we look for a place in the free car park...we are very lucky. The Ryanair flight (leaves at 10:00 (cost 50 euros per person round trip). While waiting Manu prepares some sandwiches with Nutella...yes, given the cost of living in Iceland we preferred to bring supplies. In about three hours we land at London STN, fortunately the low-cost airline that will take us to Iceland (Iceland Express, 220 euros per person round trip) leaves directly from this airport. At 19:40 our flight leaves for Keflavik, the Icelandic international airport...in this case too the expected flight time is about 3 hours.

The international airport is very small, all in wood (IKEA style)..at this point there are two alternatives: 1) take the flybus that waits outside the international airport for all incoming flights, and takes 1h to get to Reykjavik 2) sleep in the village of Keflavik. We opted for the second option since it was already 12:00 PM and we were very tired. By taxi, spending 3500 ISK (71 ISK = 1 euro!!!) we reach our hostel..the FIT hostel where we experience the famous sleeping bag accommodation...that is, a bunk where you put your own sleeping bag (+ more comfortable than I imagined).

Keflavik-Rekjavik

After a good breakfast, we go to the bus stop located near our hostel (timetables can be consulted at and for only 1200 ISK we are in Reykjavik after about 50 min in a land of solidified lava rock covered with moss. The bus drops us at the bsi terminal where you can easily take a city bus to the next accommodation (all routes are under each shelter but are written in Icelandic, the bsi terminal also has them in English). Each ticket costs 220 ISK or 9 tickets cost 1500 ISK, the transfer works like this; you get on a bus stamping a ticket (it's really inconvenient, as big as a Granarolo full stop) then if you need to continue on another bus, you get a transfer ticket from the driver valid for 45 min (after 18:00 the frequency is reduced, but the transfer ticket is valid for longer). Our accommodation for tonight is Domus guesthouse (special price 1900 ISK)..very nice.

In this month the sun rises at 10 and sets at 17. We go to eat at the Kebab house where we have a kebab and a fish and chips for only 20 euros!!!. Our tour of the city begins, we visit the Domkirkja located near the Tjorn pond (partially frozen), from here we enter the centre of the Radhus exhibitions. From the lake one begins to see the splendid Hallegrimskirkja church with its very tall bell tower. From the lake you go up this small hill to the church, in the square it is possible to admire the statue of Erikson the first European to explore Vinland (today's Canada). On the seafront one admires a curious stylised ship, very nice.

Reykjavik-Akureyri-Reykjahlid (Myvtan)

Unfortunately on Sunday the only bus that goes to the domestic airport (no. 15) starts running at 10, but our plane is at 9 (!!!). We take a nice walk to the airport, it is very small and very pretty, it stays closed until 8 and only Air Iceland flights leave from here (the domestic flight company is very efficient, it does not apply surcharges for one-way flights only and with web offers can cost as much as the bus). The flight lasts 45 min, we fly over enormous expanses of ice, arrived towards the town of Akureyri nestled on a beautiful fjord, the wind starts blowing like crazy, the pilot has to make an interesting manoeuvre to reach the little strip on the water.

Arrived at the airport, in theory we should wait for the bsi bus which leaves at 16:00 (even from the airport..this information is not on the website) but we are lucky since with us there are two Japanese tourists who have taken the day tour for Lake Myvtan (with return to Akureyri also organised by bsi) we ask for a lift. The driver/guide makes us pay 2200 ISK (the same amount without surcharge for the tour) but besides the transport we can stop (something impossible with the scheduled bus) at the places of interest. In fact we see the beautiful Godafoss waterfalls, the pseudocraters at Skutustadir and the Hverfell crater. The road is often icy, in fact thanks to the extreme skill of the driver we also manage to reach Dimmuborgir, a characteristic site where you can admire pinnacles formed by solidified lava.

Finally we arrive at our destination and go to sleep at Elda's (which according to the guide should be closed) contacted via the internet. The town of Reykjahlid is tiny with only 400 inhabitants. Here too the road is frozen, we are the only tourists and we have a whole bungalow to ourselves. The only place to shop is the small market located near the Esso station, fortunately with the ' communal ' kitchen we manage to prepare excellent lunches. Unfortunately the sky is overcast, apparently Lake Myvtan is the best place to see the northern lights. After the enormous disappointment of the trip to Alaska where we couldn't see anything due to bad weather I hope to make up for it with this holiday. The best conditions to see the aurora are: 1) Darkness (in winter) 2) cloudless sky 3) from 10 to 12 PM (it seems strange but that's how it is).

At 9:30 we scan the sky from the window of the bungalow overlooking the lake...at a certain point...we begin to see faint glimmers that light up and go out, we don't even have time to get dressed and go out before they immediately disappear, the clouds are a big problem...today we were not lucky.

Reykjahlid

This morning we wake up calmly given last night. Here in Iceland, both for heating and for hot water, they use underground water (also exploited to produce energy). The advantages are obvious, but the disadvantages are that the hot water immediately reaches 100°C scalding you and it smells of sulphur. We take the opportunity to visit the town (!!!) we visit the church spared by the lava flow of 1727 (the blocks of solidified lava are still visible). We spend the afternoon relaxing and planning future movements, meanwhile we watch the sky, maybe today will be better, there are few clouds. We decide to go to sleep early so as to stay awake at night, but the wait keeps us from sleeping. Like a Swiss clock at 9:30 the phenomenon begins and at 10 the show finally starts.

The sky is clear, there are no clouds, we see these luminous streaks in the sky of a pale green colour, in continuous movement, in fact these streaks move quite quickly forming waves, circles..what an incredible spectacle. If we stare at them carefully they are made up of many little streaks that vibrate...I will never forget such a thing...among all the things seen so far in this world this is the most incredible, moreover every now and then we see shooting stars. Unfortunately it is useless to capture them with the video camera, you can't see anything, not even with an excellent reflex with 800 ASA film and 30 sec exposure (perhaps bulb was needed) do you get satisfactory results. Perhaps it's better this way, the ephemeral beauty of this phenomenon will remain forever in our hearts.

Reykjahlid-Akureyri

Inebriated and satisfied by the night just spent we wake up late. Today the bus to Akureyri passes outside the Reykjahlid hotel near the church. Of course the hotel is closed (given the season) we wait outside in the cold, but after a little while the caretaker comes out of the hotel and tells us to wait inside (thank goodness). Punctually the bus passes and for 2200 ISK in 1h takes us to Akureyri. Arrived in Akureyri the bus drops us at the information centre, we go in and ask how to reach our accommodation for the night, the Akureyri HI Hostel. The guy tells us that the bus that has just brought us will pass by there so he gives us a lift (and off we go). The hostel is exceptional, all in wood..fantastic. After putting down our things we decide to stroll around the second Icelandic city (20,000 inhabitants!!!). We see the Akureyrarkirkja and walk to the central square of Radhustarg.

The view of the fjord is spectacular.

Akureyri-Reykjavik-Blu lagoon- Selfoss

This morning I taste the fantastic Icelandic yoghurt (Skyr) for the first time, exceptional, creamy and velvety. On the road to the airport a guy stops and offers us a lift (he works at the control tower). At 12:00 we leave and at 12:55 we are in Reykjavik, we pick up our car at Avis (a Golf) and off in the direction of Keflavik. Halfway along we take the turn-off for Krisuvik where in a few minutes we arrive at the Blue Lagoon. The landscape is spectacular, km and km of solidified lava covered in moss. Arrived at the Blue Lagoon, we park the car, hand over the 1400 ISK for the entrance and in exchange receive a wristband with a microchip for the electronic management of the lockers (not exactly immediate). We undress, put on our swimsuit (!!!! yes, our swimsuit) and after the shower we immerse ourselves in the indoor pool.

From the indoor pool there is a little door, you open it and you are in the lagoon, with your shoulders and body at 40°C and your head at 4°C!!!! what a sensation!!!!. Of course this is not a pool, the bottom is not tiled but there are rocks. The depth is never more than a metre (except in some points that are difficult to access) and in some areas, especially near the rocks, the water is boiling!!!!. In one corner it is possible to take the silica mud of the area to spread on your face with an exfoliating effect. After the nice relaxing bath we get in the car and head towards Grindavik...wrong, unfortunately the road that reconnects from here to Selfoss is unpaved...so you have to go back to Reykjavik and turn off for Selfoss. I must say that the road is quiet, apart from a bit of traffic (!!!) near the capital.

The only sore point: at a certain point you cross a pass which with snow and darkness is not exactly nice. Arrived at Selfoss, we make a few phone calls for the night's accommodation...it will be Gistihusid Solbakjki (2000 ISK).

Selfoss-Gulfoss-Kirkjubaejarklaustur

To go to Geysir and Gulfoss, you need to go back a bit along the ring road (no. 1) to the junction for Geysir. Contrary to what the guide says, the asphalted road is the one that reaches Laugavatn and then continues to Gulfoss (65 km one way only). First stop is Geysir which is home to the geyser of the same name, by now extinct. The active one is Strokkur which erupts every 15-20 min with a double jet that can reach 30 metres (!!!). Here it is truly impressively cold, we quickly get in the car and continue to Gulfoss. From the car park a short walk takes us to a little square where you admire this beautiful waterfall 32 m high (more than Niagara in my opinion). In reality they are a series of waterfalls that converge towards a gorge, from here a little path (frozen) leads right up to the ravine very close to the waterfall...fantastic.

After this marvel we head towards Vik crossing a very strange landscape, arrived in Vik we book the (only) accommodation open in Kirkjubaejarklaustur (kirkj) that is efri-vik. After about 1h we are at Kirkj (170 inhabitants), and we go to our accommodation, a little wooden cottage equipped with bathroom and kitchen.....and off we go, tonight we're having pasta!!!. Tonight too, punctually, the Aurora appears, here since there are no artificial lights it is very easy to see it. The sky is clear of clouds and full of stars, punctually at 10 we see the Aurora..today it is very intense...it almost frightens you. Even though the wind is very strong we stay outside for hours (and at the window) admiring the Aurora that covers the entire vault of the sky...what luck, this is the third time we have seen it.

Kirkjubaejarklaustur-Jokulsarlon-Reykjavik

Today we wake up very early (7:30) we have to cover a huge number of km. We quickly cover the 62 km that separate us from Skaftafell crossing a lunar landscape, full of solidified lava covered in moss..as well as the legendary sandur...that is the finely crushed debris released by the third largest glacier in the world, the Vatnajokul (after those in Greenland and Antarctica)..a bit of wind is enough to raise a cloud of dust. Skaftafell is the closest place to the glacier from here (contrary to what it would seem in the lonely) in just 50 km you reach Jokulsarlon, in this lake at the foot of the glacier (conveniently located on the ring road) you can see majestic icebergs released by the glacier floating freely in the ocean water. We go back to Nupsstadur where we enter a farm (there seems to be no one there), here there is a beautiful little church covered with earth...exceptional.

Next stop Reykjavik, after a good 490 km travelled, today we go to sleep at the Gusthous Duna (2100 ISK, not exceptional and inconveniently located).