Journey to Hayastan

Naples-Munich-Vienna-Yerevan

Luckily we decide to spend the day before departure at my parents' place, so we manage to relax a lot. Around 12:15 my brother-in-law Salvatore and Dad drive us to the airport; our flight leaves at 14:30 but there is already a long queue at check-in. After the usual formalities our Lufthansa flight leaves for Munich, where it lands 1h 20' later. Now we have to wait until 18:30, when a small Fokker for Vienna is waiting for us, and from there at 22:30 our Austrian flight departs direct to Yerevan. The flight to Yerevan lasts three hours or so and they show the film Shrek, but unfortunately we are too tired to watch it, even though the flight is very turbulent and next to me there is a Pole chatting like a madman who won't let me sleep.

Yerevan

We have finally landed at Yerevan airport, it's 4:50; the new terminal, opened in July, is (of course) brand new and spotless. At this point you can either get the visa directly at customs (30 USD), but you have to stand in a rather long queue, or buy it through the website of the ministry of foreign affairs (60 USD, credit card only; both options are certainly cheaper than the embassy). The queue for the visa checks is enormous too, and we leave the airport around 7 (!!!). Obviously it's too early for public transport (naturally, all the flights coming from Europe arrive very early) and we have to rely on a taxi which, for 5000 AMD (1 euro = 470 AMD, a fair price according to the guidebook), takes us out to the Alo Travel agency... but it's too early!!! in fact here in Armenia, unless you wait until 10:00, everything is closed!!!.

Since we haven't had breakfast we go to the nearby Opera House square, full of cafes, where we linger for a couple of hours and have a good breakfast with two good cakes, two cappuccinos and a bottle of water (2600 AMD). After a while some other Italian tourists stop at the cafe and we chat for a bit. Around 10:30 we go to the agency and finally, after filling in a few forms with exaggerated slowness, they give us the keys to our apartment and take us to it. The apartment (45 USD on Zaqian Street) is a stone's throw from the main square, Republic Square, very clean, with air conditioning (essential given the heat here in Yerevan) and cable TV. But although the apartment is brand new, the building is awful, the stairwells are unlit, everything is crumbling and the lift looks like something from the First World War... for experts only.

Given how tired we are we decide to rest a bit and around 15:30 we start our first walk through the sun-baked streets of Yerevan. The first stop is the Museum of Armenian History (800 AMD each); I must say it's pleasant and worth a visit, even though there are no descriptions in English. After the museum we stroll along Abovian Street as far as the Opera House with its square full of cafes, and carry on until we reach the Cascade with its beautiful gardens. Inside there is a very efficient (and free) lift that goes right to the top, where you can admire the whole city and, through the haze, make out the outlines of Ararat. The Botero statue of a fat cat is very charming too. We head for the barbecue street to taste an excellent lamb khorovats (4500 AMD).

Yerevan-Garni-Geghard-Yerevan

We wake up slowly and head for our usual cafe in the centre for breakfast. Yesterday we had arranged the trip to Garni and Geghard with the airport taxi driver, agreeing a price of 10000 AMD; the alternative is to join organised tours that leave on certain days (costing 4500 AMD per person). Contrary to what the guidebook suggests, you can arrange the trip to both sites using public transport, because there are minibuses going to Garni, and there is a lay-by there where taxis stop and from which (perhaps) minibuses to Geghard also leave (I saw minibus number 27 outside the monastery).. The road to Garni is nothing special, with a lot of roadworks and the potholes that go with them. We leave Yerevan and in the background we can see Ararat and Little Ararat; it is 32 km of semi-mountainous road to Geghard.

Soon we arrive at the small village of Garni and our taxi driver takes us out to the temple of Garni (1000 AMD each); the temple is very pretty and commands a spectacular valley. To the right of the temple you can see beautiful rock formations that look a lot like the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. Nine kilometres from Garni you reach the monastery of Geghard, also known as the monastery of the spear, where until a few years ago the spear of Longinus was kept - the Roman soldier who pierced Jesus's side. The monastery, which owes part of its fame to being carved out of the rock, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Entry is free, though you are welcome to buy a candle (40 AMD) to light in the atmospheric brazier. Even though there is a sign saying that photography and filming are not allowed... many people ignore it.

I must say the site is worth a visit; the crosses carved into the rock (khachkars) are beautiful, and so is the hall with a bas-relief showing an eagle seizing a lamb with two lions beside it. In the monastery courtyard there are a great many beehives and it is beastly hot; we go up to the first floor, where you enter a very small passage leading to a beautiful hall where we can hear an atmospheric choir. We go back to Yerevan and have ourselves dropped off at the great library, the Matenadaran (500 AMD each). This library holds extremely ancient books written in Armenian; a 5th-century manuscript is magnificent. We return to the city and go to eat at the Poplavok Jazz cafe, very charming, it looks like a boat on an artificial lake... a bit pricey by Armenian standards (6200 AMD).

Yerevan-Echmiadzin-Yerevan

After a good breakfast (3080 AMD) we head for the minibus "stand" for Echmiadzin, which is opposite the Blue Mosque. We manage to catch a bus on the move and pay on board during the journey (200 AMD each); the trip takes about 30 minutes and we are dropped off practically at the entrance to the main church. A few steps and we reach Mayr Tachar, the holy church for Armenian-rite Christians. The church is very pretty, with its typical conical roof and all in a particular shade of red. The building is surrounded by a beautiful garden with splendid trees that give very pleasant shade. The interior is quite austere; I am struck by a painting of the Last Supper in which all the apostles except Judas have halos.

To the right of the altar is the treasury room, where several relics are kept, including the spear of Longinus (the one from Geghard), a piece of the ark and a piece of the cross of Jesus. Here too there is no charge for the visit. After resting a little we take the minibus (this time) back to Yerevan (250 AMD). Back in Yerevan we head for the children's art museum (500 AMD each), where beautiful drawings by children from all over the world are on display... it makes you think to see the Finnish child's drawing of the sack race and the Iraqi one with a hospital ward.

Yerevan-Sevan-Noratus-Sevan

We phone the owner of the apartment to hand back the keys, everything goes smoothly, and we head for the Opera House for our inevitable breakfast. Afterwards we head for the minibus stand for Sevan, which is on Isahakyan Street behind the Poplavok Jazz cafe. We wait a few minutes and at 10:30 we set off. The minibus is full and takes about 40 minutes to reach our destination (600 AMD each). In general the minibuses are very comfortable and fast, but they have a very small boot; bear in mind that with just one trolley case we filled the whole boot, so you should consider the possibility of taking an extra seat. As soon as we get off there is the usual taxi driver offering a sightseeing tour, and we negotiate the visit to Noratus and the surrounding area for 7000 AMD (plus a thousand to take us to our accommodation).

The road to Noratus runs alongside the beautiful Lake Sevan, which is a blue-turquoise colour; after 35 km we reach the famous field of khachkars. The cemetery can already be glimpsed from the main road, which as usual is full of potholes. I must say the field did not strike me particularly; yes, the crosses are atmospheric, all inlaid and covered in the usual orange lichen, but being so close to the village makes it lose a lot of its atmosphere. We head back towards Sevan to visit the very ancient monastery of Hayravank, set on a beautiful little hill on the shore of the lake. The next stop is our accommodation, which is on the peninsula just after the monastery of Sevanavank (30 USD each, three meals included). The rest house, or house of the union of Armenian writers, has a rather unusual shape but the view over the lake is beautiful.

We arrive just at lunchtime; the included meals are good, though not very generous. Around 16:30 we go down to the beach, which is practically below the hotel.... of course don't expect Rimini, because everything is extremely neglected (as you often see here in Armenia, litter and bottles everywhere...... what a shame) but the water is clean, though quite cold. We spend the evening on the little balcony contemplating the beautiful view, but you need a fleece - we are at 1900 metres!!.

Sevan

Unfortunately the weather today is awful, so we take the opportunity to visit nearby Sevanavank; the monastery itself is not the most beautiful, but its position on the lake makes it one of the most visited sites. Today Sevanavank stands on a peninsula, but it was even more picturesque before, because you had to take a boat to reach it. We spend the rest of the day resting and planning the trip.

Sevan-Yerevan-Sevan

Since even today the weather promises nothing good, we decide to go to Yerevan; today is Sunday and there is the vernissage, the famous open-air market. Around 8:30 we go down and head for the deserted square in front of Sevanavank; contrary to what the Lonely Planet says, the minibuses for the town of Sevan leave from the peninsula..even this early. In fact we wait a few minutes and take a minibus which in a few minutes, for 200 AMD (each), takes us to the stand for the minibuses leaving for Yerevan. The minibuses to the capital are very frequent and start running at 9:00, though you often wait for the vehicle to fill up; in 45 minutes we are in Yerevan (1200 AMD) and the first stop is of course at one of the many cafes in the centre for breakfast (2150 AMD), then we head for the vernissage.

This little market is really charming; even though it is very hot, this is the ideal place to buy souvenirs. The first area, which we nicknamed the steelworks, sells everything from the transistors of old radios to the handles of armoured doors; the second area sells very pretty craft objects. After the vernissage we go to visit the beautiful Blue Mosque, which overlooks a lovely cool little garden with benches where you can rest for a few minutes (the mosque closes at 13 and reopens at 18). Crossing the road you reach the covered fruit and vegetable market, instantly recognisable by its fully inlaid entrance. Outside there is a man with a little cage selling live chickens; people walk past, buy the chicken and carry it off under their arm!!!. Inside there are several stalls selling fruit, both fresh and dried; it is a very characterful place.

We decide to buy a phone card to call Italy (50 units, 1000 AMD), dialling the classic 0039, and then we go to eat at the Old Yerevan (2910 AMD); after lunch we go back to the minibus stand for Sevan. After the usual 40 minutes we arrive in Sevan and there, dodging the taxi drivers, we try to find the "stop" for the bus to the peninsula; asking around we end up outside a corner shop and the woman tells us the bus will pass by here sooner or later. We wait a few minutes and a lady decides to buy us two ice-cream cones..but we didn't look that tired, after a while a bus comes past - no point asking why, nobody understands you - we decide to get on and we are lucky: we are dropped off at the start of the peninsula paying only 200 AMD each.

Sevan-Vanadzor-Alazaverdi-Vanadzor

Today we are up at 9:00; we quickly pack our bags and hand back the room keys - the owner invites us to stay for breakfast but we can't, the road is full of bends and we have delicate stomachs. At the usual little square by Sevanavank we take the minibus and have ourselves dropped off at the "stand" for the minibuses heading to Vanadzor (they also go to Alaverdi and beyond??). The minibus is a bit rickety; there are only two departures, one at 10 and one at 15 - get there early if you want a seat!!. We leave on time, the minibus is packed!!!, but fortunately people get off along the way. The route as far as Dilijan is full of hairpin bends and all uphill; needless to say the minibus struggles.

Soon we enter the Lori region, characterised by beautiful forests; every now and then we pick up someone walking alone along the road, often carrying a not very fragrant load ranging from potatoes to fish (thank goodness we skipped breakfast!!!). The scenery is beautiful and after 1h 30' we arrive at the Vanadzor avtokayan (1000 AMD each). Our hotel is the very central and very comfortable Hotel Metropolina, right on the main square (9000 AMD each); at the entrance there is a likeable old man who hates Berlusconi (!!!) acting as doorman, and he directs us to the 4th floor. Unfortunately yesterday the cash machine gave us a 20000 AMD note (42 euros) which is really hard to change; fortunately there is a bank, but it is packed, so we approach a customer and propose the swap.

Straight afterwards we stop at the bar next to the bank (the one with the Coca-Cola gazebos) and here too we have an excellent breakfast paying only 700 AMD!!!!. At the minibus station we ask to be shown the minibus for Alaverdi but there aren't any; the only option is the buses. So as usual we get on the packed bus, the driver makes a couple of locals stand up so we can sit, we settle in and chat a little with the people next to us. Soon we discover that the bus takes 2 hours!!! too long for just 50 km; we get off and decide to negotiate today's tour with a taxi driver; in the end we spend 12000 AMD but it is more than 100 km, so it seems a reasonable price to me. A woman we met on the bus takes advantage of it too.

Finally we set off; the scenery is really very beautiful, the woman and the driver try to entertain us but unfortunately the language barriers are very high; along the road every kind of animal strolls happily by: cows, donkeys, goats, horses and pigs - this gives you an idea of how rural a country Armenia is. The journey to Alaverdi takes 1h; on arriving in the town we drop off the lady, who thanks us by giving us a little holy picture. To reach the monastery of Haghpat you have to climb, and the driver takes a couple of heart-stopping bends; before reaching the top we find an old woman walking under the blazing sun and, as often happens in these situations, the driver gives her a lift. Finally we arrive at the monastery of Haghpat, set above the gorge; the view is really very beautiful. Both Haghpat and Sanahin monasteries are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The site is very beautiful, and so is the khachkar depicting the crucified Jesus and the bell tower..a site worth visiting. Back in the car we return to Alaverdi and from there take the road climbing up to the monastery of Sanahin; as always there is the temptation to compare the two sites..we preferred the first. After this visit we head back quickly towards Vanadzor, but quickly is a euphemism - we often get stuck in the middle of the road because of repeated breakdowns of the vehicle. For dinner we go to the restaurant so highly praised by the Lonely Planet, the Cafe 999 - it's nothing special.

Vanadzor-Yerevan

This morning we have the usual breakfast at yesterday's place, paying the usual 700 AMD; we go back to the hotel to pack and head for the avtokayan to catch the minibus to Yerevan (1200 AMD each). The minibus shoots along at great speed through beautiful valleys, and in less than two hours we arrive in Yerevan. A few steps from the station is the metro stop, which we had never used until now because we were staying in the centre. The metro is very convenient: you pay a flat fare of 50 AMD and get off whenever you like. Tonight's accommodation (our last evening) is the Areg Hotel, not exactly easy to find because it is not well known to locals. The hotel, I must say, is nice and clean (21700 AMD) but it has one big flaw: the rooms in the attic have no window, let alone air conditioning... so at night you die... I wouldn't recommend it, unless you sleep out on the little balcony as we did.

No great harm, since tonight we have to get up at 3:30 because the flight to Vienna is at 5:40.