If I had to describe Samos through its landscapes and colours, I couldn't help but start with the image that more than any other tied me to this island: its pastel-coloured sunsets at the port of Pythagorio, full of little blue, white and red boats, and the deep yellow fishing nets. But I couldn't leave out either the grey-green of its olive groves or the deeper green of its lush vegetation, often interspersed with tall cypresses. Or the large yellow patches of broom in the west, a wild area still marked by the scars left by a fire a few years ago. And how can you not stand enchanted before the crystal-clear transparency of its wonderful waters? There you have it, Samos is all of this, but not only...
It's the homeland of the great mathematician Pythagoras, who welcomes you at the port with a statue dedicated to his theorem and a very amusing mug of his design, which cannot be missing from any tourist's haul. It's the land that gave birth to the goddess Hera, but it's also the island where you can see one of the oldest aqueducts in Greece. It's not, however, the right destination for those looking for the characteristic white-and-blue houses that made other islands like Santorini famous. It isn't completely lacking in them, but well... if you're after that kind of landscape don't go to Samos, where the buildings are less characteristic, without taking anything away from the island's overall charm.
Day 122 Jun 2008
Our base will be the Maritza Bay in Pythagorio. A simple hotel about 3 kilometres from the centre, equipped with a beautiful sea-view pool but, alas, with two very small unorganised beaches reachable only via a steep little road under the scorching sun. This doesn't particularly bother us because we will immediately rent a car to move around discovering the island. However it is a detail to keep in mind if you are thinking of a completely relaxing holiday at the hotel.
The first impact with the port of Pythagorio is already more than positive. Tucked around the bay it is surrounded by a myriad of little places and restaurants overlooking the sea. We have our first Greek salad choosing the place based on a "strictly" gastronomic criterion: the colour of the chairs! Many restaurants keep very simple furnishings with the typical straw chairs painted deep blue or light blue…and since I like them very much…we will always choose the restaurant based on the location and the colour of the chairs! The idea is a bit odd…. But we have never regretted it!!
The central street of Pythagorio is dotted with car rentals that compete to win over the customer. Have a look around before choosing the most convenient one. The day is calm and torrid, we make a brief visit to the Monastery that is located above Pythagorio and from which you get an excellent view of the town and just to get a little acquainted with this beautiful little island we go for a tour as far as Samos town which doesn't particularly enthuse me. The choice to stay in Pythagorio in fact will turn out to be absolutely spot on.
In the evening the port of Pythagorio comes alive and fills with fishing and pleasure boats and takes on a festive and at the same time tranquil air. It will be here that we will enjoy an unforgettable sunset: the pastel pink and blue colours blend together before giving way to the deep blue that heralds the night.
The small dimensions of the island allow you to best distribute, over the course of the day, the wandering in discovery of it and the relaxation on the beach.
We start with a stop at Myli, famous for its mills… of which, however, no trace remains. In a ceramics shop I immediately come across the cup of Pythagoras, "Dikìa Koupa" or just cup which intrigued me so much when I read about its existence. In reality, a simple "hydraulic" trick allows this perforated cup to hold water.. but only up to a certain level, beyond which the cup empties completely. Beyond the hydraulic explanation it's a nice souvenir that I treat myself to and that I give to many friends.
We continue to the Megali Panaghia monastery. We arrive just before opening, no one can be seen and we are surrounded by a motionless silence. We are welcomed by a splendid fuchsia bougainvillea in full bloom and inside the small courtyard another plant that I unfortunately cannot identify, but which gives rosy tufted flowers. Stairs, canopies and so on are in wood… were it not for the climate and the decidedly Mediterranean plants it could be a mountain monastery.
We soon realise that Samos is a heavily militarised island; we notice, in fact, a large depot of war vehicles which in relation to the size of the island is truly enormous. It won't be the only one we encounter, but certainly the largest. Obviously the proximity to Turkey is the cause.
Our first day ends at Psili Ammos, a beautiful sandy beach ideal for families with children because the crystal-clear water stays shallow for several metres. Psili Ammos is located exactly opposite Turkey from which, it is said, it is only one kilometre away….
Coastal road
Day 223 Jun 2008
The discovery of the island cannot leave out a stop at the village of Platanos. This very small village is located at the top of a hill covered with olive trees and you reach it via a very narrow little road that…. opens onto the very small square surrounded by plane trees. Fearing we have taken the wrong road we try to reverse, but a local invites us to cross the square among the little tables to reach the car park. It seems strange…. but that's how it is!! If you have a car even just medium-sized, park a little before the narrow stretch… otherwise it's impossible to get out! Platanos is a quiet village that develops in this square shaded by plane trees, in the shade of which the elderly sip their morning coffee and relax playing with the koboloi, the typical Greek worry bead/anti-stress toy.
Karlovassi is the other large centre of the island. It has a nice square and a very beautiful and imposing Orthodox church which, unlike others already seen, is cool and bright and does not convey that heavy sense of oppression of dark and cramped churches.
Before enjoying a bit of rest on the beach, we reach Manolates, a small village at 500 m above sea level that gives us a bit of the little streets whitewashed with lime and the light blue window frames that make Greece so characteristic. We stroll among flowered balconies and small souvenir shops and then head to the taverna "Lucas" for lunch, where you can eat under a pergola with a sea view. In Manolates I notice a curious habit which I initially mistake for forgetfulness, but either Samos is an island of the forgetful… or, in fact, crime is truly minimal. What is this particular thing that catches my attention? Simple, the fact of leaving house keys inserted in the lock on the outside. By now for us such a thing is unthinkable…. I notice that here instead it's a rather widespread habit.
Unlike our cities and towns here you can still live peacefully; on the other hand the island is very small and with such a high concentration of military personnel any thief would certainly not have an easy time.
We still have time to make a stop at the beach and today we choose Lemonakia, not recommended when it's too windy but ideal on a hot day. Lemonakia is one of the most beautiful beaches of Samos, pebbles and crystal-clear sea that enchant and… a beautiful olive tree under which you stay really cool, when the sun's rays give no respite!!
Sunset in Pythagorio
Day 325 Jun 2008
We will also visit other beaches such as Kerveli, very shady and quiet, and Glicorisa, small and splendid, but Lemonakia will remain our favourite,
The latter is located a few metres from that of our hotel and is noted for the particular purity of the waters of its bay. The only jarring note in my opinion is the large bar/restaurant that overlooks the entire beach. The structure is beautiful, well looked after.. in short, nothing to say about it, but I prefer beaches a little wilder, less equipped but also less "contaminated" by convenience tourism.
Kokkari, another tourist centre of note on this beautiful little island and a delightful town, both during the day and in the evening. It is very close to Lemonakia beach and deserves a visit both by day when you can enjoy a drink in the comfortable armchairs from which to admire an always crystal-clear sea, and at night when it comes alive with souvenir shops and little restaurants that colour the setting with their blue or pink or green chairs. In Kokkari I "throw myself" into the Optapo (grilled octopus) and when they ask me if it's fine cooked with garlic I gladly accept…… But I don't know what awaits me… although garlic is an ingredient I often use in cooking, I am not prepared for the intense and spicy flavour of Greek garlic nor… for its quantity! So keep that in mind if you don't want unpleasant surprises.
Anyone going to Samos cannot miss the sunset seen from the tip of Aghios Nicholaos. It is located between Kokkari and Karlovassi and you reach it via a steep and narrow little road, but it is truly worth it. Once you have parked at the port of this very small village you continue on foot until you reach a restaurant that overlooks the sea directly. It is the best place to enjoy the spectacle in complete tranquillity!! The disc of molten gold of the sun sinks little by little into the sea in front of you and the shades and colours of the sky change in a few moments passing from yellow to orange to immediately give way to a softer pink that fades into blue that becomes increasingly dark. It is truly an enchanting spectacle that is worth seeing.
Last but not least we cannot miss an evening on a boat. You can book these outings directly at the port of Pythagorio and among the many offers proposed, we choose to spend our evening with Captain Yannis, about whom I had read an excellent opinion in a travel account. A short crossing of about half an hour is planned to the little port of Possidonio and then a dinner with songs and dances. Captain Yannis turns out to be a truly particular character: he is the typical sailor a bit in the Popeye style, striped t-shirt, beard and pipe, a bit of a cook, a bit of a clown, a bit of an acrobat, a bit of a sirtaki dancer and he will give us a truly very pleasant evening. The return in the silence and darkness of the sea allows us to enjoy a fantastic starry sky that is interrupted as soon as we approach the port.
The Captain in fact prepares a triumphal entrance, firing a few coloured rockets from his position on the highest mast of the boat and blowing a large shell… with the inevitable "Zorba's dance" that completes the scene.
The moment arrives soon to leave this beautiful island perhaps less known compared to the more popular Rhodes or Mykonos, but to which it has nothing to envy, and with a bit of nostalgia for the relaxed pace of life that we had made our own, we throw ourselves back into the Brianza chaos of our daily life.
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