Mainland Greece and the Peloponnese

The Africa Twin with new oil, filter and spark plugs is raring to go, the tires already have 1000 km of break-in.. let's pack our bags... we have two GIVI E 41 side cases (one each..) with the very convenient combination-lock flaps that let you put in small items without having to open the whole case.. + a GIVI Maxia 50 top case (where we share the space..) we have a bit of space left.. and I decide to put in the laptop... with Autoroute, maps and plans, various articles, and last but not least to download the photos from the digital camera every day. On the top case's luggage rack we place a backpack, which will turn out to be an excellent plus.. we fasten everything with the elastic net, and we're ready to go

Cavalese - Ancona km 501

We leave at 9:00 for Ancona, which we reach quickly via the highway, we check in collecting the Minoan tickets, which we had

booked online. Managing to leave in low season, the cost is modest, outbound to Igoumenitsa, and return from Patras for two 144 € + the bike 51 €

total 295 € in "airplane-style" seat accommodation which will not prove particularly comfortable for sleeping, in fact on the return, I slept on the beach

mat... This was our first ferry trip, and we suffered from our inexperience, in fact, on the ship the use of air conditioning is

massive, and we were lightly dressed.... we suffered from the cold, to warm up... we walked on the deck....The ship leaves on time at 17:00,

Igoumenitsa - Kalambaka km 220

We arrive in Igoumenitsa at 9:00 after 17 hours of calm sailing. we quickly leave the port, heading for Ioannina, toward today's destination, Kalambaka and the monasteries of Meteora. We quickly get acquainted with the Greek roads, curves, hairpin bends, continuous ups and downs, and traffic of Turkish trucks with very skilled but reckless drivers, a delight for me since I'm driving.. not so much for Simona, who as a passenger endures it all. We pass through Metsovo, a charming alpine village, we reach the 1700 meters of the Katara pass, then gently descend toward Kalambaka. The Meteora come into view in all their majesty, shortly before reaching the town. We settle in for the night, at the Hotel Meteora, simple, but clean, at a modest price, 30 € per night with breakfast and air conditioning

The Meteora are beautiful.... they are a rare geological phenomenon, a quirk of nature, which created these imposing cliffs called that precisely because they seem suspended over the plain. An unimaginable spectacle, so imposing is it in its size and its shapes; the visitor looking at these stone elements is overwhelmed by mixed feelings of admiration and awe. The orange trucks of Overland have passed through here too....

We begin our visit from the top, with the "Great Meteoron / Megalo Meteora" as the name indicates, the largest of the monasteries, visitable with arms and legs covered and accessible by a long staircase, we go down a little toward "Varlaam" the heat makes itself felt, we're close to 40. More stairs, but the visit and the view repay us.. we continue toward "Agios Stefanos", comfortably accessible, and very similar to the previous ones.

We go back and visit "Agia Trias" more stairs...but again much satisfaction, this monastery is smaller than the others, and also less visited, we meet only a few people, among them two motorcyclists from Ancona with whom we gladly chat a bit... they too with an Africa Twin.. and an itinerary similar to ours... The view over the plain and the villages below is a fairy tale...

We conclude our visit going down further and reach "Roussanou" a short distance from the road, and with a beautiful panoramic terrace. The day draws to a close, we decide to skip the visit to the last monastery "Agios Nikolaos".

Kalambaka - Itea km 318

We set off at 9.00 with destination Delphi; the road is smooth and fast, a 4-lane highway, we pass through Larissa and hop onto the "motorway" whose toll booth we still don't know what it is for, since they don't charge us... We quickly reach Lamia hugging the sea, and treat ourselves to a lunch stop, before tackling at speed the beautiful wide-hairpin road that branches off shortly after Lamia and climbs towards Amfissa.

Almost at our destination, we fail to notice the turn-off for Delphi, and arrive at the sea near Itea, a quiet seaside resort; the sea tempts us and we decide to grant ourselves our first regenerating swim in Greece.....

We stay overnight in Itea, at the Hotel Trocadero, directly on the beach, in a quiet position, with air conditioning, recently refurbished, for €40

Itea - Delphi - Athens km 205

With great effort we manage to set off at dawn...(9.00) heading for Delphi (18 km); we visit the archaeological site with the temple of Apollo, the theatre, the stadium, and the museum, partially closed for expansion. The place, as the reconstructions show, must truly have been imposing. A pity that Mount Parnassus has rock that crumbles easily and over the centuries has crumbled columns as if they were breadsticks. A very enjoyable archaeological visit. We finish the visit in a couple of hours, fleetingly glance at the many souvenir stalls on the main street of the town, and take the road again towards Athens.

The impact with the city is quite traumatic, the traffic is heavy and chaotic, the signs scarce, and the heat contributes to tiring us out; many hotels are in Plaka, the pedestrian area below the Acropolis, and it is not easy to get there, but we are lucky and take the right exit from the superstrada; we struggle to find accommodation for the night; tired and overheated we surrender to the Hotel Mirto, dilapidated and not up to the €60 demanded for sleeping.

Athens - Nafplio km 185

At 8.00 we are in front of the Acropolis gate, we enter among the first, a beautiful view over the Odeon of Herodes, we pass through the Beulé gate, immediately we are struck by the many scaffolds and cranes set up for the restoration, which disturb quite a lot and take away much from the beauty of the site; the Parthenon is unapproachable and visible only from the outside, beautiful nonetheless, in its majesty the perfection of line and the harmony of proportions. We continue towards the museum through a corridor turned into a building site.... we reach the belvedere for a photo over the city, passing by the temple of Rome and Augustus, and then return towards the exit, not before seeing the Erechtheion and the temple of Athena; we conclude the visit with a touch of disappointment.... going down we cross throngs of tourists eager to reach the summit...

We go down, and quickly visit the Agora, which we particularly like, perhaps also thanks to the calm we find there.

We gladly leave Athens and its chaotic traffic and head towards Corinth, famous for the canal of the same name; we are lucky... unintentionally we leave the motorway at the "Corinth A" exit and we are on the normal road that crosses the canal; we stop to take the ritual photos, and take a beautiful panoramic road along the sea that leads us to Epidauros.

We arrive at the site around 16.00 and most of the tourists have left, so we manage to do our visit in complete tranquillity; we greatly appreciate the majesty of the theatre, famous for its excellent acoustics and perfectly integrated into the surrounding landscape; we visit the museum, and after another 30 km we reach Nauplia, a beautiful seaside resort. Unfortunately we cannot find accommodation for the night despite the numerous hotels, guesthouses and domatia; we are told that on summer weekends it is always "fully booked".

We give up and leave Nauplia and after about ten km we arrive in Myli where we find a nice room at an excellent price; right here we meet Glauco and Annalisa, two motorcyclists from Mestre with a Transalp.. with whom we have dinner, exchanging information and plans for our respective itineraries...

Nafplio - Leonido - Poulithra km 117

Today we have little desire to travel; we return to Nafplio, where the influence of Venice is still evident, in the beautiful palaces, in the Bourtzi castle on the islet of the same name a short distance from the town, and in the mighty fortress of Palamidi, which we reach comfortably by motorbike, avoiding the 847 steps that climb up from the town.... we visit the fortress entering through the gate surmounted by the lion of Venice; beautiful is the view from the top, towards the town and the sea...

Once the visit is over, we gently steer our wheels towards Leonido along the beautiful and little-trafficked coastal road. We easily find a domatia in Poulitra, managing to save money, and end the day at the beach...

Poulithra Mistras Monemvasia km 201

We set off towards Geraki hugging the dry bed of a torrent, which according to the guidebook was supposed to be a lush blue serpent... we pass below the monastery of Elona; after passing the village of Kosmas, the road descends gently to near Geraki; heading towards Goritsa we reach Sparta, which has no great attractions, but just 6 km away is the Byzantine city of Mistras.

Mistras has two entrances. One at the top allows the visit of the castle and the city through downhill paths. With the same ticket (6 euros) you can visit the city from the lower entrance. The landscapes and the well-preserved ruins make Mistras a truly unique place. Pantànassa, this convent of nuns, is the only testimony of human presence in the abandoned city. In crossing these deserted streets, thinking of past glory, the emotion is stronger than the suggestion. We meet Glauco and Annalisa again.. just back from Monemvasia, our next stop.

Monemvasia An absolutely original site, reachable by land from Gefyra, a very thin strip of land that serves as an isthmus. Access into the village takes place exclusively by means of that path along the southern coast that leads with effort to the lower part of the village, the Kastro (the fortress) and from there to the more purely medieval part clinging to the rock almost 300 metres above sea level. On top of the tower, another fort, 350 metres above sea level: its position guarantees one of the most breathtaking panoramas in all the Aegean.

Perhaps also due to the fact that we arrived in Monemvasia around 18.00, and found few people, being able to savour the beauty of the place in peace, we particularly liked this place. We stay in a nice room in a recently built house towards the end of the village of Gefyra in the direction of Nomia.

In the evening we decide to spend a few days on the island of Kythira

Monemvasia Neapoli Kithira km 117

We set off determined... but we take the wrong road.. we climb for several km on a road not marked on the map, by now almost decided to turn back we meet a farmer whom we ask for information, who answering us with gestures and in a halting and folkloric English convinces us to continue.. before long the road turns into an almost path, but we trust the farmer... in fact after another various km we come across the main artery that seems to us like a "motorway"; near Elliniko we arrive in Neapoli shortly after midday; not without difficulty we find the agency that issues tickets for the ferry to the island of Kythira (Cythera), the ferry leaves at 14.00.. just enough time for lunch and a nap and we are sailing; we disembark after an hour at Agia Pelagia; we buy a guide with a map, since the guides we brought from home do not cover the islands. Brief summit..

we decide to go to Kapsali in the southern part of the island; we reach the beautiful bay and stroll along the seafront street where the taverns, restaurants and various shops are concentrated; too touristy for our tastes, we look for accommodation without conviction... but we give up immediately; we return to Kato Livadi and immediately find a nice room (near the petrol station shortly after the bakery on the right).

We have dinner at Pierros, a tavern not far away, spending truly little and eating well, served by the owner, a truly hospitable Greek.

Kithira

Today we set off to discover the island; we visit Avlemonas, a small and picturesque fishing village in the eastern part of the island, and the Venetian castle a few steps from the little harbour.

We return to Livadi passing through Palopoli, to reach the beach of Melidoni, whose photos we have seen in the guide.. The road is narrow; before long the asphalt gives way to concrete, as on many other roads of the island, and then to dirt road, which ends in the beautiful bay of Melidoni; when we arrive there are only another 4 people... too beautiful; the sea is a fairy tale, we spend the whole day there....

On the way back, a brief visit to Milopotamos with the little waterfall of Fonissa.

Beautiful Kythira; here time seems to have stopped, tourist exploitation is far away, you breathe an air of great peace, nature is splendid, and the villages are very "real", just as we like.

Kithira Aereopoli km 202

We set off to explore; we pass through Mitata, and reach Diakofti where the main port of Kythira is being built, which should replace that of Agia Pelagia where, due to the wind and currents, the moorings are not always easy.

Very beautiful is the little sandy beach, with shallow waters and crystal-clear water

We leave this place reluctantly, but the ferry awaits us... we buy the tickets in Potamos, which seems to us to be the largest centre on the island; we board at 17.00.

We retrace in reverse the "first finger of the Peloponnese"; we pass through Gythio, a large seaside resort, and continue to Areopoli, a beautiful characteristic village with tower houses... we are in the "Mani" region.

We find a nice domatia in a beautiful and also cheap place...a few steps from the centre; as always we avoid the main square of the village, stepping aside a little, to have dinner, and we are rewarded: we find a taberna where we eat really well.

Aereopoli - Kardamili km 153

We set off for the visit of the "Mani"; we descend towards the south, in the direction of Gerolimenas along a beautiful coastal road; the landscape is harsh, villages and bays follow one another, many tower houses, mostly uninhabited; we pass through Gerolimenas, with its little harbour in a beautiful sheltered bay; we arrive at Vathia. The most suggestive village of the region, a series of houses embracing one another, on top of a high rocky spur; we continue to Cape Tainaron, we come back a little where the road begins to climb; beautiful is the view over Porto Kagio and Agios Kiprianos; we climb again, as always... after the climb comes the descent, gently, towards Kokala; we stop to eat in Kotronas, in the only small restaurant, with a terrace over the sea..

The visit of the Mani is over; we return to Areopoli, and continue in search of a nice place to stop for a few days, on the coast towards Kalamata; we stop in Stoupa, but it seems "too touristy" to us... we stop in the next village: Kardamili; we like it immediately.. after some searching, with adverse outcomes, we find a room at the end of the village towards Kalamata. We realise too late that we have made a hasty choice... in fact, the bathroom is outside...we have no air conditioning..and the window is directly onto the state road... We go out for dinner, and calmly look for another domatia.... we are lucky, we find an excellent accommodation, in the last house of the village towards Stoupa. We will move tomorrow....

Kardamili km 15

We did well to leave this house... the night passed... but not very well.. mosquitoes and noises...

We spend the day at the beach... not far from our lodging... the place is quiet, the beach is pebbly.. it feels really good

Kardamili km 10

Again today beach and relaxation.

the town is small, but has everything we need, numerous tavernas and various shops, and two supermarkets, strangely in the same building.... at the end of the town in the direction of Kalamata

Kardamili - Finikounda km 155

We leave Kardamili reluctantly, but our days are now coming to an end, and we decide to move on, toward Patras, there are only 30 km separating Kardamili from Kalamata, but on a very winding road, especially in the first stretch up to Kitriai, Kalamata is a large town, we don't stop and head toward Koroni, a beautiful town of Venetian origin, arranged vertically on the rock, with narrow alleys, the harbor is beautiful, and the seafront with its characteristic restaurants. We can't find lodging, and we continue to Finikounda which the Lonely Planet guide praises for its beautiful beaches...

We visit a few rooms, and decide on one that will later turn out to be dirty and not very comfortable.. (has the luck that has accompanied us so far left us??)

We end the day with a swim, and a few hours of sun, the beach.. is not exactly idyllic...

Finikounda Pylos km 35

We leave Finikounda without regrets, we make a stop at Methoni, a small town not far away, we visit the 15th-century Venetian fortress with the castle on the sea, we play at being pirates... and we set off again, since it doesn't seem like a place suited to us. (maybe we've been spoiled too much??) We arrive at Pylos, which we like right away, with the central square under the trees, the harbor, in the large natural bay and a beautiful landscape.

We easily find, despite our doubts, an excellent accommodation, at: "12 gods" ( ) the house has been recently renovated, the room very clean, comfortable and with an excellent view over the bay of Navarino, moreover.. it is dedicated to Poseidon... the other rooms, to as many Greek gods.. really nice...

We stay on the beautiful sandy beach called Golden beach until sunset...

Pylos km 35

We set off in search of Voidokilia beach, of which we saw a beautiful photo on a postcard, we take an "alternative" route, unpaved with potholes in the middle of the biotope with very tall reeds.. the africa twin is on its home turf... we continue quickly.. and arrive at the perfectly horseshoe-shaped beach.. Unfortunately the wind is really strong, and annoying, a real shame, we decide to abandon the place...

We go to visit the palace of Nestor a short distance away. The site consists of walls about one meter high, which perfectly outline the plan of the palace, a bathtub, we believe made of terracotta, has remained strangely intact.... We have no expertise in archaeology.. and we can't appreciate what we see, we are a bit disappointed.... We return to the golden beach.... the wind has dropped, we secure the beach umbrella well and we relax...

Pylos km 35

Last day of sun and splendid Greek sea that we enjoy to the fullest.......

Pylos - Patras km 214

Deserted roads and Mediterranean landscapes lead us toward the gulf of Kyparissia. Here the coast becomes low and is a succession of kilometer-long beaches, a bit disappointing if compared to those of the South. The coast that goes from Koroni northward is rich in beaches but less interesting. We pass through Maratopoli with its rocky coast but right after there is a beautiful beach and Filiatra where a beautiful smooth road begins that brings us quickly to Patras around midday.

The large Minoan ship is in port, with the hatches open.... what is it waiting for, us?? last lunch in Greece, we wander around, we do the shopping for the trip, and we board.... We depart on time at 18:00.

Ancona Cavalese km 502

We disembark at Ancona at 13:30, we cover the 500 km of highway that separate us from home, and we put an end to this wonderful vacation