Bulgaria, Not Just Great Food!!!

Istambul-Edirne (Turkey)-Plovdiv

You'll find some of the photos of my wife Manuela in the Bradt guide coming out in December 2007!!!

This morning we took the flight from Ankara heading to Istanbul, after collecting the luggage and we take the metro where we get off at the Otogar stop (the bus station). The Otogar of Istanbul is huge and there are lots of offices and you absolutely have to ask to find the one you're looking for. After several attempts I manage to find what I was looking for, the company that operates the buses to Bulgaria (Oz Varal??), here they tell me that there are only two buses with destination Plovdiv at 10:00 and at 21:00 and unfortunately it's 10:15!!!...ok let's not get discouraged, we decide to take a bus to Edirne (city on the border) with Volkan and it leaves at 11:00. Except for the air conditioning "on full blast" everything goes smoothly (16 YTL) and in 2h and 30 min we arrive at the otogar of Edirne located outside the city.

We take a minibus that for 1 YTL takes us to the center where we get dropped off at a point X to take the bus direct to Kabikule 2.5 YTL (it's not a city but rather the border). We notice the usual endless line of trucks waiting to cross the border but fortunately we're on foot and we manage to make our way easily through the customs and finally we're in Bulgaria. Despite being on foot it takes us two hours!!!! to pass both the Bulgarian and the Turkish customs. We try to find a taxi beyond the customs but there isn't much, a man approaches us who offers 20 lev (1 lev = 0.5 euro) to go to Svelengrad (the first small town within reach) we accept because we're tired, we arrive at the station where (with gestures since our Russian is 0) we understand that there isn't a direct bus to Plovdiv but we first have to go to Haskovo (60 km arrival in 1h of reckless driving).

At the Haskovo terminal we take the bus to Plovdiv where we arrive 1h and 30 later (70 km), both buses cost 24 lev (for 4 people). From the landscape point of view the difference with Turkey is remarkable, lots of vegetation and very kind people. In Plovdiv we take the first taxi that comes our way and ask to be taken to a hotel, it takes us to the hotel Tracia (60 lev for a double room). After putting down the luggage we go to the center and we're struck by the clear difference between the dilapidated buildings of the outskirts and the sparkling shops of the center. The center is very nice full of trees and young people. We eat in the main square spending all four of us only 36 lev!!, the place is the Arena.

Plovdiv

This morning we go down calmly around 8:30, we head towards Tzentralen Square and here we stop at a café with outdoor tables to have four cappuccinos and three nice slices of cake (14 lev). After we stroll along the central street casting an eye at the shop windows of the shoe and clothing stores that crowd the center. Around lunchtime we have a snack based on pizzette and delicious rustici (6 lev) and from here we go up towards the old town making a stop at the Roman theater, very nice and well preserved. We continue our walk in the old town stopping from time to time in the wooden houses, while strolling we buy a gigantic ice cream (400g!!) for 4.5 lev...delicious!!!. We head to the Yug bus station to get information about the buses to take tomorrow, but they tell us to go to the Sever bus station we head to our destination using the taxi (5 lev).

The buses to Veliko Turnovo leave at 8:30, 13:30 and 16:30 and take 4 h the cost is 12 lev.

Plovdiv-Veliko Turnovo

After a good breakfast we hail the first taxi and head to the bus station where we take the bus direct to Veliko Turnovo. Arrived at the destination we meet a guy with the Hikers Hostel t-shirt who asks us if we need accommodation also offering us a ride to the center. the small town of Veliko Turnovo, ancient capital, is a pleasant mountain town very enjoyable, the hostel is a few steps from the center along a small street covered in cobblestones. The hostel is nice well kept and from the terrace you can enjoy a very beautiful view. After putting down the backpacks we head to the restaurant Shtastilvetsa...exceptional, delicious, always crowded everything is good from the typical dishes (Karvna) to the pizzas (!!). After lunch, with our belly in hand, we take a few steps to the fortress, past the main gate we head to the patriarchate (the church at the top).

Tired we head to our hostel to rest.

Veliko Turnovo-Arbanasi-Veliko Turnovo

This morning we take a taxi direct to the nearby village of Arbanasi which is only 4 km from Veliko Turnovo. After about 10 min (5.2 lev) we arrive at the destination the weather is terrible, we get dropped off outside at the chapel of the nativity (4 lev). This beautiful chapel has the vault entirely covered with beautiful frescoes depicting the genesis and the martyrdom of the saints. Since it's raining we stop at a bar to eat something, and then we take the taxi again to return to the city.

Veliko Turnovo-Sofia

After the usual breakfast we go to the ETAP bus station near the small stadium. The bus leaves at 10:40 and takes 3 hours (13 lev) to reach Sofia. From the station of the capital we take a taxi that takes us to our accommodation that is the TS hostel (56 le double room), the time to put down the suitcases and we quickly head towards the center. We arrive at the beautiful Alexander Nevski, truly very beautiful with its golden domes, the interior however is a bit gloomy. Nearby we admire the church of Sveta Sofia much simpler but unique. In the afternoon we try to get information on how to reach the Rila monastery, a taxi asks us 100 lev round trip but it's too much, let's see with public transport. We discover that a bus leaves from the peripheral station (Ovcha Kupel) at 10:20 and returns at 15:00. We return to the main square to see the characteristic flea market, very characteristic.

Sofia-Rila-Sofia

With the usual taxi (5 lev) we head to the bus station and take the one for Rila (6 lev) after 2 hours we arrive at the small town of Rila, from here we take the connection for the market (1.5 lev) which in 30 min takes us to the monastery. The landscape along the route changes drastically we go along a beautiful mountain road full of trees stunning. Outside the monastery there is a small kiosk that sells some things to eat, the interior of the monastery is truly wonderful all covered with very colorful frescoes depicting the last judgment, the fall of Constantinople and hell. Also striking is the portico with the monks' apartments, very beautiful. Not to be missed. At 15:00 we take the bus from the monastery direct to Sofia.

Watch out for the taxi drivers who are outside the Sofia station, carefully check the displayed prices!! otherwise you'll end up paying 43 lev for a ride to the center instead of the usual 5!!!. After the only rip-off of Bulgaria we head to the delicious and amazing Divaka a super restaurant...try the Divaka soup delicious (4 people 48 lev).

Sofia-Budapest (Hungary)

Last day of the capital, we go to visit the women's market located near our hostel, from here we go to the synagogue, the mosque and the thermal baths. A few steps and we're in the central square with the statue of Sofia and the parliament building. The last stop of our trip is the beautiful Russian church, obviously for lunch we go to the usual Divaka. The taxi to the airport costs 8.10 lev and the ride lasts 30 min.