Salzburg by motorbike

Setting off by motorbike from Acqui Terme for a do-it-yourself trip. Period: July 2011, seven days. Destination Salzburg. We take the A4 as far as Verona and then turn off onto the state roads. The beauty of the motorbike is seeing the landscapes but above all smelling the scents of the woods and the air around us. First stop to sleep in Moena, but after an obligatory stop on the "terrace over the Dolomites": the Pordoi. I had already been to the summit in winter and I must say that every time the spectacle you enjoy from up there is extraordinary. I also invite those who suffer from vertigo to admire that landscape. If you don't have the courage to look, you can tackle the cable car with your eyes closed. But the spectacle is worth the effort.

We arrive in Moena in the early afternoon: a visit to the very pretty town and with perfect temperatures, while back in the city they are sweltering in the heat. Dinner at a splendid mountain hut (Malga Peniola) pointed out to us by a rubicund traffic warden whose physique reassured us that at the aforementioned hut one ate "like the warden's mother". All true. It is located in a spot not very close to the town (3.5 km of very narrow road and in the middle of the woods but obviously, being a malga, it can't be in the village). It sits in a splendid clearing, excellent abundant food and fair prices. The next day we set off again with a stop at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, after driving along Lake Misurina. We arrive in Lienz around 6 pm and look for a hotel. A comfortable little hotel at the start of the town.

In the evening a walk through the centre, where there is a kind of festival with Tyrolean music and traditional costumes in the square. The next day we set off again toward the Grossglockner glacier, a destination for motorcyclists from all over Europe. The landscape is beautiful and the weather, at least on the climb, just as good. From the Belvedere of the glacier you can see families of marmots that appreciate the little bits of treats that the various tourists throw them. However, I don't think it's very good to feed these wild animals. It alters their ability to find food. At the glacier there is an interesting automobile museum that we visit. There would also be the possibility of descending into the valley with a particular lift, but we don't want to arrive too late in Salzburg and so we set off again. And just as well, because the descent was rather slowed down by a...cloud.

Oh yes, even without rain we arrived soaked like chicks, poor visibility and humidity... a sea of it. We crossed a cloud swollen with water that didn't allow us to admire the spectacle we would have enjoyed during the descent from the Grossglockner. We arrive in Salzburg a bit chilled from the accumulated humidity but soon find a nice hotel not far from the pedestrian area, the Hotel Mozart, where we treat ourselves to a hot shower. Not very cheap but convenient, clean, staff dressed in traditional costume and very kind and also speaking Italian. First quick visit to the pedestrian area, which promises a truly beautiful and fascinating city. Mozart's music oozes from every stone. Several street artists play the violin and... obviously Mozart and the like. The next day we visit the Hohensalzburg Fortress. The guided visit takes about the morning and is an experience worth doing.

When we come out, the smell of fresh bread leads us to the oldest bakery in Salzburg, a real gem for lovers of both bread and antiques. We wander around the city all afternoon. The next day we set off again toward Innsbruck but we don't miss a stop in Kitzbühel. A lovely town, a destination for summer and winter holidays. We arrive in Innsbruck in the afternoon, find a hotel that gives us a room in a building separate from the main one. Sufficiently close to the centre. Innsbruck is a medieval city that allows lovely walks under the arcades. Home to an ancient university, you see a lot of young people around. In the evening we dine in a restaurant that seemed very highly regarded for the quality of the food (which I confirm) but the same can't be said for the service. Forty minutes to get the drinks and about an hour and a half for the food.

It was the restaurant of a popular hotel chain located at the start of the pedestrian area. Food quality ok but... what an effort to get it onto the plate. I don't recommend the place. The next morning we set off again, determined to cross the border into Italy not via the motorway. We head west and take (a bit at random) a road that for a certain stretch ran parallel to the motorway. The road, which we then discover to be the wrong one, because it wouldn't have taken us into Italy, was the L 309. Even though we had to turn back, the valley we found ourselves in was splendid, helped by the lovely sunny day, but it would deserve a visit anyway for the beauty of the landscape to be enjoyed especially on a motorbike. We turn back and this time we find the Ötztal Strasse, which takes us through Solda, a famous ski resort.

We reach the start of the Rombo pass and pay the toll (the Austrians make you pay). The border is just after the summit. Having reached the top of this route full of hairpin bends, we stop for photos and lunch at the little restaurant on the peak. Of course, here too we find dozens of motorbikes. The temperature is decidedly chilly at 2509 m, even in July! We visit the museum, the Cross-border Pass Museum, which illustrates the history of the road and the pass through the centuries. We descend to Merano and take the motorway for the return home.