Mexico

In 1992 we took a quick tour of the Yucatán peninsula, just passing through, on our way to Venezuela.

I should say that we did this short trip on a very tight budget because of some banking problems, which were only sorted out once we reached Venezuela. So we often found ourselves in really tough situations, but today, looking back on that journey, we can even appreciate those hardships. In Mexico, right from our arrival — as indeed throughout Central and South America — you have to haggle over everything, and after a long negotiation with the taxi driver we headed to a guesthouse in Cancún.

Cancún is awful and completely ruined by the multitude of flashy Las Vegas-style hotels (the Hotel Zone). But it has a truly great little market where you can buy local handicrafts at reasonable prices (if you don't get ripped off).

Getting to the archaeological sites happens exclusively by local bus. There are different types and classes. Ours are the worst; basically they're old American school buses "donated" to Mexico. The seats are made for American children. Here instead they carry anything and everything. And on these narrow roads the driving happens at supersonic speed, with reckless overtaking the order of the day. Every now and then we stop in some village to try a local refresco; the pueblo is always very welcoming to us Italians. Not so much to the Americans from the north.

We reach Tulum early in the morning and have breakfast in one of the many spots around there.

Too bad bad luck makes me drop my SLR on the ground, forcing me, after a thousand curses even in Maya, to shoot photos for the whole trip with a shabby two-bit camera. Thanks Montezuma!!!

Tulum, with its lovely beach of the whitest sand, looks out over a stunning sea. Iguanas everywhere, watching with a peaceful, indifferent air.

Playa del Carmen is great for relaxing on a beach and is a necessary stop for Cozumel, the island just offshore, a destination for snorkelling lovers. The area is too touristy anyway and we make a clean getaway.

After 4 hours of an uncomfortable but wonderful journey we reach Chichén Itzá. Not visiting it is like going to Rome and not seeing the Colosseum. The archaeological site is immense: you can make out the market area, the ball court, the cenote and the stunning castillo, with its steep staircase from which you can look down over the whole surrounding area.

A hit-and-run here in Mexico (we absolutely must come back) but the Great Savanna awaits us in Venezuela.