Cuba on the Road

Second time in Cuba after seven years. A country I am very happy to see again and that has not changed much since last time. I also meet up again with my old friends in Havana, with whom I spent some unforgettable moments. Iberia flight with a stopover in Madrid and arrival in the capital. The current exchange rate is about 70-80 euro cents for one CUC (convertible peso). My friends' casa particular is right in the heart of Havana Vieja, close to Calle Obispo. Alina and Esteban's family, besides being a truly helpful family, is uniquely friendly. Sleeping there costs the tourist 25 CUC per dwelling, with air conditioning and a minibar, essential for getting through the muggy Cuban nights. We stay 4 days in Havana and use the house as a base for our trips. The sea near Havana is a good alternative to the crowded tourist beaches.

Playa Santa Maria can be reached in a few minutes by bus from the centre of Havana Vieja (Parque Central) for just 5 CUC return. For about 65 CUC a day we hire a small car at the agency of the Hotel Parque Central, with which we reach, after about 4 hours between the national "motorway" (so to speak) and secondary roads, as far as Trinidad, passing through the lovely Cienfuegos. The road between Cienfuegos and Trinidad is very treacherous and full of hairpin bends, with constant interruptions from animals and farmers' carts. On the other hand, the scenery is beautiful. In Trinidad we stay at a casa particular recommended by Alina. Juan and Julia are the owners and their welcome leaves us truly astonished. Juan is an excellent cook who worked for years as head chef in Europe. His dishes, especially the lobster, are something exceptional.

He also makes excellent mojitos and piña coladas!!! Trinidad is an exceptional town, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and it exceeds our expectations. Very quiet and well kept, full of museums and bars where music is played the whole time. The Casa de la Música is remarkable too. Located on the Ancón Peninsula, with its beautiful white beaches, the only ones in the southern part of Cuba, it offers the chance of excellent snorkelling trips on the coral reef for just 10 or 15 CUC. Around Trinidad we visited the El Cubano Nature Park. About 2 hours of hiking through tropical vegetation and refreshing swims under the Rio Guaurabo waterfall. 3 days in Trinidad and we set off again for Havana, this time passing through Santa Clara, with a compulsory stop at the Che Mausoleum. The following day we set off towards western Cuba, taking the road towards Vinales.

We leave the main road and take the turn-off towards Bahia Honda and from there towards Palma Rubia. The road crosses a mountain pass with breathtaking scenery among banana trees and tobacco fields. The farmers offer their produce along the road and the atmosphere is decidedly welcoming. At Palma Rubia the jetty awaits us, which at 10 o'clock sails for Cayo Levisa for just 10 CUC return. The cayo is simply fantastic; not very touristy and very quiet. About thirty guests in the whole resort, the only one on the island (Hotel Cayo Levisa), which, for the modest sum of 72 euros, lets us stay in splendid beachfront bungalows. The rooms are very comfortable, all with bathroom, air conditioning and minibar. This island is preferable to the many overhyped ones advertised in all the tour operators' brochures, provided you are not looking for entertainment made up of bars and discos.

Those who choose Cayo Levisa do so because they are looking for peace and quiet. 2 days here make you lose the desire to go back, but like all good things, they come to an end. We leave the island by the usual jetty and return to Havana. The last 3 days we spent on the virgin beaches (Playa Sirena and Playa Paradiso) of Cayo Largo, doing some wonderful snorkelling trips on the coral reef among rays, barracuda and fish of every kind. Going back to Italy is always harder!!!