A great week at Dhonveli Beach Resort and Spa

Introduction Deciding to take a holiday at the Dhonveli Beach Resort and Spa (also known as Chaaya Island Dhonveli) certainly has its advantages. Naturally there are drawbacks too. First of all, the price. This is a resort with a decidedly good quality-to-price ratio, in the sense that on a relatively limited budget by the standards of the best Maldivian resorts you can enjoy a splendid holiday, with a magnificent sea (the resort sits in the same lagoon as the luxurious Four Seasons, and if the Four Seasons chose this spot there must be a reason), a beautiful beach, good food and the incredible friendliness of the staff. Diving enthusiasts also have a good dive centre with Italian staff and some magnificent sites.

Naturally you also have to be aware of the drawbacks: the island isn't small and the resort has a capacity of around 150 between rooms and bungalows (so over 300 guests) with three restaurants and as many bars. Furthermore, the beach, though spacious, well kept and half empty, doesn't surround the island but runs along just one side, the one facing the lagoon. The resort was recently renovated (the works are finished) and a whole new piece of island was literally created (the one where the 24 Overwater suites stand), where the vegetation is still sparse. What's more, the exterior architecture of the rooms, overwater bungalows and overwater suites included, isn't particularly attractive, though inside, from what I've heard, all the rooms are very spacious and welcoming (in some cases, I gathered, the bathroom is small and rather ugly).

In short, the island where Dhonveli stands isn't exactly what I'd call the typical Maldivian island that, I believe, anyone arriving in this country for the first time expects to see. It's also important to know that this is an international resort, so Italians are often a minority. Europeans predominate, but there's no shortage of Japanese (hilarious) and also Indians. This international atmosphere, which for us was a real plus, for many might be a drawback. The food, of good quality, is international too, with many excellent typical Sri Lankan dishes as well as, of course, plenty of more "European" ones. You can also request lobster dinners (extra).

Having said that, with a limited budget, I'd definitely recommend a holiday at Dhonveli.

Our holiday But in practice, what is a week at Dhonveli like? Ours went like this. We left Milan on 26 January (Eurofly flight, punctual) and landed in Malé on the morning of the 27th. By 11.00, after half an hour of "Speed Boat", we were already in our room. And here comes the first very pleasant surprise. We had booked a Beach Bungalow, that is, the best of the land-based accommodation available. Once we arrived, Kina, the friendly and capable Phone and Go assistant (the company that places Dhonveli in Italy), informed us that we had been assigned one of the 24 Overwater Suites (number 716), that is, the best available at Dhonveli. Naturally at no extra cost (the price would have been about 1000 euros more!).

The suite, a stilt house set in the lagoon water facing the little desert island and the Four Seasons, is a room of about 70 sqm with a bedroom, living room, a huge bathroom and a terrace with direct access to the sea of no less than 20 sqm. In short, truly dreamlike! On top of this there was the restaurant reserved for suites only, the Rehendi, very quiet, uncrowded and right on the sea. In short, what was meant to be an ordinary Maldives holiday turned unexpectedly into an exclusive one! Aside from a few hours spent on the beach, especially in the late afternoon to make the most of the sun, we practically lived in the room, sunbathing on our beautiful terrace and entering the sea from our private access. We took 2 excursions.

Half a day in Malé, the capital, which I warmly recommend both because we are guests of a country and so it seems only right to get to know the way its people live, and because the fish and fruit market are worth the visit. A day at Kuda Bandos, the desert island reached with an hour of "dhoni", the typical Maldivian boat. An outing I recommend both for the pleasure of a boat crossing and to see a typical little Maldivian island with a 360-degree beach and excellent snorkelling sites. What's more, you're certain to meet dolphins during the crossing. The rest of the time we spent strolling or swimming in the wonderful lagoon, reaching the two little desert islands, the smaller of which has a spit of white sand perfect for sunbathing and for taking the best photos.

We did our snorkelling at the edges of the lagoon, between the entrance to the little harbour and the overwater suites, where there's a small but very respectable reef. Note: the little reef shoes are essential for walking in the lagoon, not necessary if you simply want to enter the sea and swim. In the evening we treated ourselves to an aperitif at the "pasta point" bar, at the far end of the island, reached by crossing the lushest tropical vegetation. The bar, in a splendid position on the sea and facing the sunset, looks out over one of the few places in the Maldives where you can surf thanks to the waves that form before the reef. The "central" bar, where the little and low-key evening entertainment (and therefore the Italians) was concentrated, we used very little, just as we didn't even consider the pool.

In short, the relaxation was total and the final verdict, also thanks to the pleasant surprise of the suite, I'd say more than excellent!