India.. Life's a Journey

Day 1

After a direct flight Rome - New Delhi lasting about 7 hours, with the airline Eurofly, the arrival in the Indian capital is at 15:00. The time difference between Italy and India is 3 hours and 30 min. Arrived at the airport one starts making superstitious gestures for the arrival of the backpack...which about 30 min after landing, arrives right on time on the belt. And that's already good news! Once the backpack is collected, I immediately start looking for the exchange..with 1€ you get about 56 Rupees...in a few seconds, with 100€, the wallet fills up beyond measure with banknotes. At this point, I pull out the legendary Lonely Planet North India ed., updated to June 2006...which will be my bible for the entire duration of the trip.

As soon as you exit the arrivals area, on the right there's a counter for railway reservations;I take the opportunity right away to book the train for Shimla for tomorrow. Once out of the airport, on your right, there's the Delhi Traffic Police Prepaid Taxi Booth counter, which lets you buy a voucher for the destination in Delhi;it's absolutely essential not to give the voucher to the driver until he has taken you to your destination... I chose as my destination the Paharganj area (Main Bazar) and in particular the Hotel Vishal. The ride with the prepaid Taxi costs from the airport to Main Bazar Rs 225. The Hotel Vishal is located more or less towards the middle of Main Bazar street...a street that teems with cheap little hotels, restaurants, shops and a continuous coming and going of people.

Paharganj has the advantage of being a short distance from the New Delhi railway station and is therefore a convenient area for those who have to leave early in the morning! After about 40 minutes the arrival in Main Bazar is quite traumatic...a mess of people, smells, colors....here's the welcome of Incredible India! One night at the Vishal costs 400 Rs in a double room. For one night the room is fine...bathroom in the room..let's say acceptable accommodation, no frills. For dinner, with my adventure companion, Renzo, met through a forum on the internet, we choose the Kwality Restaurant...an excellent restaurant in the central area at Connaught Place.

For getting around between Paharganj and the center the autorisciò are very convenient..very cheap...I insist: bargain, bargain and bargain! Tomorrow morning the alarm is set for 4:15...but the journey has begun..and the adrenaline is at 1000!

Day 2

Wake-up at 4:15. After a good chai had in front of the New Delhi railway station, the train for Kalka is at 5:45.Punctual as clockwork. The name of the train is Himalayan Queen Express. Pleasant journey, from the window a thousand images overlap one another;after the first half hour of Delhi's outskirts, the train begins its run towards the north. At 10:30 the arrival in Chandigarh, a city designed by the famous architect Le Courbusier,capital of Punjab. At 11:15 arrival at the terminus, the city of Kalka. At 12:10 the famous "Toy Train" - narrow-gauge train - which arrives in Shimla at 17:15, after a winding climb among hills and mountains.The tiny track passes through a full 103 tunnels in 93Km!This journey offers breathtaking panoramic glimpses. The cost of the train from New Delhi to Shimla is Rs 505.

The choice of accommodation fell on the Hotel Classic (Rs 550 in a double room per night);cozy and comfortable it is located about 500mt from the railway station, pleasant rooms, well kept and very scenic. Tip: as soon as you arrive at the station, you'll be surrounded by hotel touts, the managers will make a point of raising the room rate to cover their commissions...so, keep walking straight! Dinner at the Himani's restaurant where you can enjoy flavorful dishes of Indian cuisine..spent Rs 180..and ate very well! A walk around Shimla and then off to bed!

Day 3

Shimla - Wake-up at 7:15. Breakfast at "Baljee's" a splendid place for a first breakfast. At the Shimla Bus station (chaotic!), at counter 9, bought the ticket for tomorrow to Mandi (Rs 112). At the prepaid Taxi counter took a taxi for the whole day that will take us to visit Tattapani and Naldhera;cost of the mini tour Rs 1100. Tattapani is about 60 Km from Shimla;it's a quiet village known for its sulphur water springs...Naldhera is instead known for a beautiful golf course nestled among cedar trees. Return to Shimla in the afternoon...and visit of Shimla. Shimla, clinging to a 12 Km ridge at an altitude of mt.2205, is located among mountains covered in pine forests.For many it is the archetype of the Indian hill station;"discovered" by the English in 1819,it progressively acquired importance and in 1864 became the summer capital of the Raj.

The Christ Church and the buildings in faux Tudor style of Scandal Point, really give the idea of old England,while the monkeys present everywhere constitute a surreal element of contrast. Dinner based on samosa at the excellent "Baljee's" restaurant.

Day 4

Departure from the Shimla bus station for Mandi at 6:00.The bus is an old Tata,very spartan but it holds its own on the mountain roads!The ticket cost is Rs 112.Duration of the journey 5.30h.The arrival in Mandi is at 11:15. Mandi - a town already important as a hub of the salt route heading towards Tibet, is an important crossroads where the roads coming from the Kullu Valley,from the Kangra Valley and from Shimla converge.Nearby are the famous sacred lakes of Prashar and Rewalsar. These 2 lakes in particular catch our attention;so we decide to rent an off-road vehicle that for Rs1800 will take us to visit them.

The Prashar lake at 2730mt is a pretty mountain lake with an attached beautiful temple (Prashara Temple)..the road that winds up along the mountain is almost entirely unpaved, the scenery is beautiful.The road stops about 20 min on foot from the lake so a nice walk will let you enjoy the beautiful place even more. (it is not possible to stay overnight). Rewalsar Lake is instead located 24Km southwest of Mandi.In the 8th century the monk Padmasambhava set out from Rewalsar to spread Buddhism in Tibet,so today there are many gompas dedicated to the nyingmapa sect.The lake also becomes a pilgrimage destination right after the Tibetan new year. Around the lake there are many gompas,inhabited by hospitable monks.We find an excellent accommodation inside a monastery for Rs250 per night for two.

Hindus also venerate the lake because it was here that the sage Rishi Lomas did his penance in honor of Shiva. This lake is truly very beautiful and relaxing. Dinner in front of the gompa where we're staying...finally I eat momo! An intense but beautiful day.

Day 5

Woke up at dawn so we could spend a few more hours at Rewalsar Lake. At 9.15 the driver from yesterday, with whom we had made arrangements, comes to pick us up to take us to McLeod Ganj. The agreed price is Rs 2600. Along the way we stop to see the famous and beautiful Gompas of Bir, Billing and Baijnath. They are very beautiful, absolutely not to be missed. It is essential to go there by car, but I assure you that you will be amazed...and then the Tibetan monks are fantastic! A sense of calm, tranquility and spirituality welcomes the traveler inside these monasteries. At 17 we arrive in McLeod Ganj - seat of the exiled government of the fourteenth Dalai Lama. Overnight stay and meals at "Nick's Italian Restaurant"..(don't be fooled..there's nothing Italian about it!)..the rooms cost Rs200 per night and the restaurant boasts an excellent panoramic terrace and very good food.

Tomorrow morning, a visit to McLeod.

Day 6

McLeod Ganj - Located about 8 km from Dharamsala, it is the seat of the Tibetan government in exile and the official residence of the Dalai Lama. The Dalai Lama and his entourage sought political asylum in 1960 following the Chinese invasion of Tibet. McLeod Ganj is full of small shops with Tibetan souvenirs, trekking and volunteering associations. After breakfast, we reach the Tsuglagkhang Complex in ten minutes on foot, which houses the official residence of the Dalai Lama, as well as the Namgyal Gompa, the Tibet Museum and the Tsuglagkhang. A beautiful day to visit this important Tibetan complex.. Don't forget the Dip Tse-Chok Ling Gompa either; a splendid monastery located at the top of a steep path. The prayer hall (dukhang) houses an icon of Sakyamuni and two enormous goat-skin drums.

Here, during Losar, beautiful butter sculptures are made which are then destroyed the following year on the occasion of the same festival. In the afternoon a quiet walk on foot towards Bhagsu leads to a beautiful waterfall...and 4 km northwest of McLeod Ganj, you reach Dal Lake, a natural amphitheater created by the mountains and surrounded by deodar trees.

Day 7

At 7.00 a taxi takes us to the bus station in Dharamsala (fare Rs 140). At 8.30 a very rickety bus leaves for Dalhousie..the drivers go like madmen..as always bus trips are grueling, but that's also part of the journey, isn't it? The Dharamsala - Dalhousie fare is Rs 115. Arrival in Dalhousie at 13.30. Overnight stay at Hotel AArti; decent rooms but with beautiful views! Our request for the overnight stay is simple: all rooms must have an en-suite bathroom with hot water (sometimes they bring buckets). Here in Dalhousie the cost of a double room is Rs150 (about €2.5!). Dalhousie is a quiet and very clean little town. Spread over five hills at 2036m, it was, at the time of British rule, a hill station used especially by those who lived in Lahore (now Pakistan). Dalhousie hosts a considerable community of Tibetan refugees.

Today, since it's a rest day, we use it for walks and reading on terraces with stupendous views. Dinner at the Napoli restaurant(!), located in the bazaar not far from Gandhi Chowk, it is an elegant place that, despite its name, does not serve Italian food, but rather excellent dishes of Indian and Chinese cuisine.

Day 8

After a good Chai, departure by bus to Chamba is at 7. (the ticket price - which you buy on the bus - is Rs 40). To get from Dalhousie to Chamba you have to travel 56 km along a very beautiful road, which is not, however, without a few hair-raising stretches. Arrival in Chamba at 11.15; immediately looked for accommodation..chose the "Aroma Palace" hotel for Rs 450 per night in a double room. A well-managed place with spacious and clean rooms; the hotel has a beautiful terrace from which you can get a nice view and have dinner brought up! Chamba, perched on a ledge above the Ravi River, is a relaxing place, characterized by narrow alleys and ancient temples. In the afternoon we visited the Temples: Lakhmi Narayan Temple - these are 6 temples dating from the period between the 10th and 19th centuries, examples of the sikhara style that boast beautiful sculptures.

Another place not to be missed is the Bajreshwari Devi Temple: it is located on top of the hill, above the Lakhmi complex. The climb is tough..but it's worth it!

Day 9

Off again! The bus leaves at 8.30 heading towards Bharmour...65 km on a winding mountain road, mostly unpaved...hair-raising! Fare Rs48. Arrival in Bharmour at 12.30. Bharmour (2195 m) is an ancient village characterized by houses with slate roofs. The mountain road winds above the Ravi River; the steep sides of the valley are terraced to form strips of cultivated fields, hard work that required centuries of toil. The temples of Bharmour are for the most part consecrated to Shiva. The largest temple is the Manimahesh Temple in sikhara style.

Besides visiting the temples, in the afternoon I did a short but intense trek that took me to a very beautiful panoramic spot...along the way I was literally "buried" by the kids coming from school who accompanied me along the mountain path...an enchanting afternoon! Overnight stay and dinner at the Chaurasi Hotel...rooms with a nice view, but very spartan (Rs 155 for a double room per night).

Day 10

Today will be a hard day of traveling! Departure at 8 by off-road vehicle to Chamba (Rs 1000), arrived in Chamba at 11.30. In Chamba we start haggling for a taxi to take us to the Pathankot railway station..we manage to get it for Rs 1300. Arrived in Pathankot after about 3 hours, we take the 16.55 train to Amritsar (Rs 37). At 19 we finally arrive in Amritsar! An auto-rickshaw takes us for Rs 30 to our guesthouse...Mk Sood Guesthouse, a modern, clean hotel very close to the Golden Temple (Rs 750 per night in a double room). Given the hour, after a quick shower we go to dinner: the choice falls on the New Punjabi Rasoi restaurant...an excellent vegetarian restaurant (ah, I forgot..I'm vegetarian)..very close to the guesthouse. Went to bed early because tomorrow the Golden Temple awaits us at dawn!

Day 11

Amritsar (Indian region of Punjab) Amritsar was founded in 1577 by Ram Das, the fourth guru of the Sikhs; Amritsar is the beating heart of the Sikh region. The main attraction is undoubtedly the Golden Temple, a place of extraordinary peace, beauty and spirituality. The Golden Temple is the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion, it is open to everyone and no money is asked. Before entering you must take off your shoes, wash your feet and cover your head. The architecture of the Golden Temple presents a mixture of Hindu and Muslim elements. The dome is gilded with 750 kg of pure gold and represents an inverted lotus flower, a symbol of the purity to which Sikhs aspire. Return at different times of the day...each time it is an extraordinary emotion. In the afternoon a visit to the Ram Bagh museum, the Mata Temple and the Sri Durgiana Temple (which is a Golden Temple in Hindu version!).

At 15.30 a taxi takes us in an hour to Attari (Rs 350).. Attari is located about 30 km from Amritsar on the border with Pakistan. Every evening around 18, the Indian and Pakistani guards face off in a ceremony lasting about half an hour, which is an authentic spectacle. Conducted with proud military display, the ceremony closes the border. Return to Amritsar to the Golden Temple so we can admire it in all its splendor in the evening...

Day 12

Yet another day of traveling, from Punjab we return to Himachal Pradesh. Amritsar railway station, the 6.20 train that will take us to Pathankot. Ticket price Rs 20...arrival in Pathankot at 9.40. At 13 from Pathankot Junction station a small narrow-gauge train leaves for our destination: Palampur. After a tiring journey we arrive in Palampur at 21.30...after 8.30 hours of travel! We take a taxi to the Hotel T-Bud..it's about 8 km, Rs 100. The excellent Hotel T-Bud is managed by the tourism board, very nice and clean rooms. Cost of a double per night Rs 500...had dinner at the hotel restaurant. Dead tired I go to bed exhausted. Tomorrow is another day!

Day 13

Still with a backache due to the many hours of train travel yesterday (almost 12 hours!), a shower puts me back in shape. By taxi we set off again towards Rewalsar Lake...yes indeed...we're going back to the lake where we had already been a few days ago. The place is so beautiful and serene that we decide to return! The cost of the taxi from Palampur to Rewalsar Lake is Rs 1500. Arrived at Rewalsar Lake in the early afternoon we return to the Tibetan monastery to ask for hospitality. Without knowing it, today at Rewalsar Lake there's the festival with a small amusement park and lots of stalls...we spend the afternoon wandering around this "market"..beautiful!

Day 14

Departure from Rewalsar Lake at 8.30 by taxi towards the Kullu Valley and precisely Naggar. Cost of the trip Rs 1500. About 15 km from Kullu, in the Ajaura village, the Basheshar Mahadev, the largest stone temple in the Kullu Valley, is worth a visit. Built in the 7th century with carved stone blocks, the temple features beautiful bas-reliefs and sculptures. At 12.30 arrival in the small and graceful village of Naggar (1760 m), famous for its castle, its ancient temples and the gallery of the Russian painter Nikolai Roerich. A quiet place where you can relax and wander through woods and orchards. Absolutely not to be missed is the Marlidhar Krishna Temple; it is located high up above a ridge overlooking Naggar, near the village of Thawa..to get there you have to follow a path that starts a little before the Roerich Gallery...from up there a stupendous panorama over the Kullu Valley.

Overnight stay and dinner at the excellent Hotel Ragini (Rs 400 for a double room per night).

Day 15

Today the weather is gorgeous too. In the morning, a visit to the Roerich Gallery. In a beautiful old house the works of the eccentric Russian painter Nikolai Roerich, who died here in Naggar in 1947, and of his son Svetoslav are exhibited. Roerich's style falls between surrealism and Russian iconographic painting, but being a multifaceted man, he is also remembered for his poetic works, in prose and in theater. Another important thing is that the painter exerted himself in efforts for the ratification of a pact that would safeguard cultural monuments from the devastation of wars: to this day the "Roerich Pact" has been signed by more than 60 countries. In the afternoon, a visit to the Naggar Castle, a castle built at the behest of Raja Sidh Singh about 500 years ago, in the classic Himachal style, in wood and stone.

In the courtyard of the castle stands the tiny Jagtipath Temple, in which a stone slab is preserved that is said to have been transported here by a swarm of bees.

Day 16

Today is the last day in Himachal Pradesh. 7.00 am - departure from Naggar by taxi towards Manali (Rs 450). From Manali we took an off-road vehicle that took us to visit the Dhungri Temple: a tall wooden building, built among the trees of a park. Erected in 1553, the temple is dedicated to the goddess Hadimba and features elaborate wooden reliefs depicting dancers and characters from numerous Hindu stories. After visiting the temple, we set off for the Rothang Pass at 3979 m, about 50 km from Manali. Given the season, the road is blocked by snow at about 2800 m, so we start a trek towards the Rahala Falls...although after about 3 hours of walking, the snow blocks our path...so we turn back. At 17 a night bus with berths leaves from Manali towards New Delhi...it will arrive tomorrow morning around 9. The cost of the "deluxe" bus with berths is Rs 700...and you sleep very well!

Day 17

I arrive in Delhi from Manali by overnight bus with sleeper seats at 9.00. For the overnight stay we choose the area of the Tibetan quarter (given that we were able to appreciate the friendliness and warmth of these wonderful people)...and the choice falls on the Wongdhen House (Rs 450 per night for a double room). It is also very convenient to reach the center of Delhi...with a motor rickshaw they take you for Rs30 to the first stop of the brand-new metro and from there you reach the center in a few stops. The metro is beautiful, very clean...and the checks are very strict. In New Delhi we visit the Red Fort (entrance Rs100): the imposing walls of the Red Fort are 2Km long and vary in height from 18m to 33m. In 1638 Shah Jahan began the construction of this fort, which was completed in 1648.

The Red Fort was built at the height of the power of the Mughal empire, which however reigned in Delhi only for a brief period. After the Red Fort we plunge into Chandni Chowk, the famous and very chaotic commercial street of Old Delhi...a frantic street with lively bazaars...beautiful!

Day 18

Today a big day dedicated to visiting New Delhi. We negotiate to have a motor rickshaw (obviously with driver!) for the whole day (for Rs500) who will take us to visit: Qutb Minar Complex - these imposing buildings date back to the advent of Islamic domination in India and are considered masterpieces of ancient Afghan architecture (the complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site). The Qutb Minar is an extraordinary slender tower whose construction began in 1193, immediately after the fall of the last Hindu kingdom of Delhi; it is 74m high and its base measures 15m in diameter, the top narrows to only 1.5m. The complex is extraordinary...you absolutely must not miss it! We then move on to visit the Bahai Temple: an enchanting temple shaped like a lotus flower.

It is of recent construction - completed in 1986 - it stands in a complex of very well-kept pools and gardens, and welcomes the faithful of all religions, who come here to pray or to meditate. Among the dogmas of the Bahai faith are the overcoming of prejudices and the achievement of universal peace. In the early afternoon we visit the Tomb of Humayun: commissioned in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum, the first Persian wife of the second Mughal emperor Humayun, this Tomb is a masterpiece of the Mughal period... Towards evening a stroll to India Gate and then back to "our" Tibetan quarter.

Day 19

At 5 o'clock departure for a 4-day mini-tour. Agreed with a taxi Rs 6 per Km + taxes and parking. The mini-tour will take us as first destination to Agra to visit the famous Taj Mahal. Agra is located 205Km south of Delhi in the Indian region of Uttar Pradesh; the Taj Mahal is the most extravagant among the monuments erected for love...this imposing Mughal mausoleum has become the symbol of India. The Taj was commissioned by the emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their fourteenth child in 1631. The construction of the Taj began that same year and ended in 1653. It is a great emotion to admire this spectacular mausoleum in white marble, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After visiting the Taj Mahal, we visit the Agra Fort, a fortress-palace in red sandstone, located on the banks of the Yamuna.

In my opinion it is much more beautiful than the Red Fort in Delhi. After finishing the visit to the Agra Fort, we move 40Km west of Agra, to visit the magnificent fortified city (now abandoned) and former capital of the Mughal empire Fatehpur Sikri. It is a splendid village declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you are in Agra you absolutely cannot miss this stunning place! In the late afternoon we set off again towards Gwalior; overnight stay at the Hotel Majur (Rs400 per night for a double). Had an excellent dinner at the Blue Fox.

Day 20

So the alarm goes off at 6.30! What a struggle to get up...but today it's Gwalior's turn! Another beautiful intense day lies ahead... Meanwhile we are in a new Indian region: Madhya Pradesh. The temperature is very hot...a dry heat around 43-45 degrees. The liters of water that get consumed can't be counted! An obvious piece of advice is that when you buy water, always check that the seal on the cap is intact! The cost of 1 liter of water is around Rs 12 to 15 rupees. Here we are then in Gwalior to visit the famous Gwalior Fort. It is similar to a mighty cliff that rises in the center of a plain; within the walls of the fortress are enclosed interesting ruins and palaces, a testament to how extraordinary the lifestyle of the maharajas was.

I won't give you here the interesting history of the Gwalior complex (you can find it on the internet), but I can assure you that you will spend 3-4 very beautiful and interesting hours. Also extraordinary and distinctive are the numerous Rock Sculptures that you encounter along the route that climbs up to the fort. These works, carved into the living rock of the cliff around the mid-15th century, depict the naked bodies of the Jain tirthankaras (masters)...they will fascinate you! In the complex there is also an important Sikh temple.. After finishing the visit we set off again towards Khajuraho...which is about 8 hours away. During the journey, to our surprise, we notice a beautiful castle (which the LP doesn't mention). We are in DATIA and the magnificent castle is called Bhirsingh Dhan; it is beautiful and the caretaker accompanies us to visit it.

Being off any "tourist" route, the only way to visit it is to take a car from Gwalior. At 19.30 we arrive at our destination: Khajuraho, overnight stay at the Hotel Surya (Rs 500 per night in a double room). Dinner at the Blue Sky Restaurant, right in front of the entrance to the temples.

Day 21

Khajuraho - The fabulous temples with erotic depictions constitute one of the main attractions of all of India: architectural masterpieces and sculptural works executed with extraordinary skill have considerable historical and artistic importance. The entire site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Temples were built at the time of the Chandela, a dynasty that survived for five centuries before succumbing to the attack of the Mughals, and date back to a period of great artistic liveliness that lasted about a century (950-1050 AD). The isolation of Khajuraho certainly helped to preserve the temples from devastation. There is still no certain answer as to why its erotic depictions were carved.

According to one theory it would be a Kamasutra in stone, a kind of initiatory manual for the adolescent sons of the brahmins; another theory would instead suggest that those figures had the purpose of protecting the temples from lightning, since they would have met with the favor of the god Indra. Another much more convincing theory is that the images are of tantric inspiration; according to this religious tradition, the satisfaction of primordial instincts is one of the ways to purify oneself from all negativity and finally obtain spiritual enlightenment. Be that as it may, the sculptors may also simply have limited themselves to representing an aspect of their own era, when sexuality was experienced with total uninhibition, just like any other activity...a joyful representation of life. In the early afternoon we set off for the capital of Uttar Pradesh: Lucknow.

Arrived in Lucknow at 22.00...after a very long and very hot journey. Overnight stay at the Hotel Gompti (Rs 650 per room per night).

Day 22

Lucknow - The capital of Uttar Pradesh acquired importance as the residence of the nawabs of Avadh. We visit Lucknow very quickly, given the distance we will have to cover during the day to return to New Delhi (about 600 km). The colossal Bara Imambara Tomb is very beautiful, but also very decadent; it was commissioned around 1780 by the nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, thousands of workers worked on this project started also to offer a source of livelihood to the people hit by the famine. At the end of the visit, we set off again for Delhi...where we will arrive dead tired at 23.30. Overnight stay in the usual Tibetan quarter at the Wongdhen House.

Day 23

New Delhi - Here I am, having reached the last day. A sense of melancholy makes itself felt already in the early morning as soon as I wake up...it will accompany me throughout the day. Being the last day, it is used for shopping! Purchases at the Dilli Haat market, the continuation of shopping at Paharganj in Main Bazar..haggling..haggling...every purchase is a story in itself...I will fondly remember every moment of this wonderful trip. A warm greeting to the friends I met...like Fabrizio and Sara; a big hello and a thank you to my travel companion Renzo who, met through a forum on the internet, accompanied me on this adventure. I hope that the description of this trip can be of help to those who want to undertake a fantastic journey in "Incredible India". Tomorrow, April 26, 2007, a Delhi - Rome flight will take me back to Italy.. Anyone who wants further information can contact me...

where you can find other information about the trip. BYE! Enrico

Day 24

return New Delhi-->Rome-->Cuneo sob...