Uganda Travel Diary: Kampala, Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth Park

excerpt from

30.11.2013 Kampala (Uganda)

A few hours of walking and we are in Busia, the last Kenyan town: the border. Here the usual messy chaos reigns, the jumbled comings and goings of every frontier.

There are people who want to take us to immigration by bicycle or moped; many offer us shady currency exchanges, strangely very advantageous; everything is for sale and there are people from all over East Africa.

Kenyan exit stamp; an argument with a border policeman over an innocent photo of the flag; a little later, the Ugandan entry stamp while the sinuous, colourful flag, photographed shortly before, flutters a welcome to us in this nation that will host us for ten days.

We wait two hours under a scorching sun for the customs formalities of our truck: African timing, no worries! Once we set off again we notice that the landscape has completely changed. The red earth of equatorial Kenya gives way to lush green - it rains often here!

We travel all day until we reach the chaotic capital: Kampala.

We plunge into the traffic of the city centre on an ordinary Saturday evening; mopeds and cars clog all the streets; we often risk running over a passer-by; there are many recently built buildings, headquarters of banks or embassies, that clash with the surrounding landscape. Martin struggles quite a bit to keep this big beast under control and two hours later, at last, we arrive at the Backpacker Hostel to rest our tired bones in a large dormitory.

01.12.2013 Masindi (Uganda)

[Stefy]: "We set off at six in the morning along the main road that splits the bright green of Uganda amid huts of earth and straw; the children who, from the little hills, raise their hands to the sky to greet us; stalls selling mangoes, papayas, carrots, cucumbers or beds and sofas...

In the late morning we arrive at the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary and shortly after, accompanied by a ranger, we head into the forest to discover the last specimens of Northern White Rhinoceros. Shortly after, there are no fewer than three specimens resting in the shade of a large tree. After all, it is 1.30 pm and it is 40°C! After a few minutes one of the three stands up... shakes itself a little, looks around - it was immense - but immediately afterwards it lies down again to rest.

We set off again for Masindi and at 4.30 pm we enter our lodge huts, very cosy and with a fabulous hot shower!

We devote the whole afternoon to strolling around this small town. We make a little stop at the Sunday market; we stop in a little music shop; we buy some popcorn that we will leave for some children at the market a little further on; we meet lots of them, children with big eyes shining like stars, we chat with them, take photos while my heart fills with serenity and positive thoughts."

02.12.2013 Murchinson National Park (Uganda)

We set off early in the morning towards Murchinson National Park. Along the way we stop at Butiaba and Bulisa, two fishing villages, to admire their everyday life.

Butiaba. A strip of red earth marks the centre of the village; among straw huts, fishing nets stretched out on the beach line the shores of Lake Albert. We stop on a big football pitch and immediately find ourselves surrounded by a myriad of children in torn T-shirts, and a match begins with a green foam-rubber ball, all patched up... The fishermen return with their old boats from the outing, some clean the nets, some women load heavy buckets full of small fish on their heads and head for the market, a woman washes a pot bent over the shore with water and sand from the lake, the children play carefree...

[Stefy]: "Bulisa. Huts painted yellow form the backdrop to the little market. We buy some bananas while we wander among the stalls of old second-hand things under a scorching sun...

In the late afternoon we reach the Red Chilly Hideaway campsite; we struggle quite a bit to pitch the tents on very hard ground, we are sweaty and tired and the pegs keep breaking; a cold, meagre shower, but we are happy!"

03.12.2013 Murchinson National Park (Uganda)

[Stefy]: "At seven in the morning we cross the river and our safari in Murchinson National Park begins. We meet elephants, lots of giraffes, herds of buffalo and wildebeest, impala, Thomson's gazelles, but no felines... not even carcasses around... here the life of the docile herbivores seems to flow serenely...

In the afternoon, by boat, we sail along the channel until we reach the Murchinson Falls. Hippos yawn, bored; crocodiles relax on the bank with their sharp jaws on full display; wildebeest, gazelles and impala drink cautiously; a big elephant trumpets as it watches us, irritated; a fish eagle flies imperiously and suddenly swoops down to seize a fish...

Reaching the vicinity of the waterfall we get off the boat to climb a little hill up to the top of the water drop. We climb and struggle to reach the summit; once there, with arms open and millions of droplets on our bodies after the exertion of the climb, we enjoy the harmonious sounds of nature..."

04.12.2013 Fort Portal (Uganda)

We take down the tents and set off again for Hoima. The journey is quite hard because of the rough road full of big potholes. We come across several monkeys watching us in surprise as they jump from one tree to another, until a big branch hits the windscreen perfectly, right on my side, and it nearly all shatters.

Once at our destination we take the chance to do some shopping, since the provisions are starting to run low... the sun is still high in the sky and we are energised... so we decide to make another small effort and push on to the stop planned for the following day... The day turns into a long transfer. We cross various areas where the tsetse fly is said to reign, and so we are forced to "seal" ourselves well inside.

The road is tough and suddenly we are stopped by a broken-down coach blocking the track. We notice that the rear axle is missing, and in absolute calm all the passengers begin to get off, unloading everything: huge sacks of grain, hysterical roosters, pots and pans, cardboard boxes, right up to giant durians...

With African patience we try to lend a hand too; we dig out an entire mound of earth to let our truck pass. The first attempt fails and poor Martin nearly crashes into the bus... We start digging again briskly... second attempt... it is dangerous, but the skilful Martin manages it! All aboard and on the road until evening, crossing tea and coffee plantations, climbing to almost 2000 metres.

At last, Fort Portal. It is evening, it is dark and it is hard to find the right way. We settle into a little guesthouse in perfect African style; we are exhausted but Nicolò treats us to a good plate of spaghetti and speck.

05.12.2013 Queen Elizabeth (Uganda)

My watch reads almost 40°C. "It's really hot," I think to myself, just as we cross the equator line! What a thrill!

In the late morning we reach the entrance of Queen Elizabeth National Park; under a scorching heat we pitch our tents and shortly after set off for a game drive... suddenly the sky darkens and from big black clouds it starts to pour... Our mood is not sky-high, we are tired, our tents are wet, there is no chance of a shower or relaxation, but lit by the faint light of our head torches we have dinner and spend a lovely evening in company.

continues at: