A Dream Trip to the Seychelles

Day of 11/06/2007 Departure from Rome

After getting over the after-effects of the wedding, we headed to Rome airport to catch our direct flight to the Seychelles. Having left the car in one of the many huge car parks located near the airport, which I recommend everyone use, since their shuttle service drops you off and picks you up right at the entrance, our story begins right here. But why begin a story about the Seychelles by describing Rome airport? The reason is that inside the airport we nearly had to give up our honeymoon, so this brief description will be the most useful one of the whole story! What happened? Well...whoever designed the airport's furnishings, probably to make the view as spacious as possible, put the marble tables in the same colour as the floor.

Fate would have it that as I turned around suddenly to go to the cash machine, not seeing them, I banged both my legs against them! I won't tell you the pain I felt..and the effort it took to hold back the scream of pain in my throat! By the time I managed to withdraw the money I still had big tears in my eyes. The security staff surely watch this Fantozzi-esque scene every day to start their day in a good mood! Luckily everything was sorted out with some plasters, disinfectant and cotton wool to dab the blood that was coming out, bought in the airport's internal pharmacy! So this was the only real mishap we had on the trip to the Seychelles!

Transfer Mahe' - Praslin - La Digue

The journey to get to Mahè airport lasted about ten hours. Once we'd disembarked, we had to go through the long document-checking procedure, so long that in the end we missed the first connecting flight Mahè - Praslin, which left from the secondary airport you find immediately on the right as you come out of the main airport. Forget the classic check-in desk...here there's a modest counter, where on the suitcases you check in they attach a handwritten tag, all tied to the suitcase handle with a simple rubber band. The first thought that came into my head was that I'd never see my suitcase again! Since the connecting flights between the two islands are frequent, our suitcase left before we did, but luckily we found it in our room in the afternoon as promised by the staff at Praslin airport.

The second flight from Mahè to Praslin lasts about half an hour, and is operated with a small plane of about 20 seats...where inside it's infernally hot. The flight is a bit shaky, but don't worry because it's normal for this type of small aircraft. (at least these are the words I said to my wife when she started opening her eyes wide in fear). Once we arrived in Praslin, we headed by coach to the port, to take our last connection from Praslin to La Digue where we'll arrive around 11 o'clock after about half an hour of sailing. This is a truly fantastic island, everything on a human scale. The only way to get around it is by bicycle (or on foot).

The only motor vehicles that exist are just a few little vans for the hotels' service…..some even use the classic ox-drawn cart to take people to the hotel! It really feels like we've arrived in paradise! The hotel where we stayed is La Digue Island Lodge, and it's truly very beautiful. Spectacular garden and beach…..and for those most nostalgic for the beautiful country there's even an Italian chef! After the classic welcome cocktail, drunk with pleasure, and a few hours spent exploring the hotel and relaxing on the sun loungers by the sea, we decided to rent two bicycles from a guy who's right in front of the hotel. With a bit of haggling we managed to get a good price to keep the bicycles for 4 days.(Curious note, one of the two bicycles was of the brand Vicini, the factory just a few hundred metres from my wife's old house).

We took advantage of it right away to do a little tour, since by then it was late to start seriously exploring the island, which is very modest in size (5 x 3 Km). Coming out of the hotel in the direction of the port there's also a supermarket with products of real quality, where I refreshed myself daily with drinks and biscuits. Besides, if you don't treat yourself during your honeymoon, when can you do it at a better time!?! Also nice was the sight of the children from the nearby school in their perfect uniforms, nothing like our old smocks!

La Digue - Anse SourceD'Argent

I probably saw the most beautiful beach of my life on this day. As soon as we got up and after an abundant breakfast where you can eat everything and more….we headed towards the famous and beautiful Anse source d'argent. To get there you have to cross the Union nature park where access is allowed on payment of a few euros (surely the best euros I've ever spent in my life). The park is really lovely to cycle around, but apart from seeing a few horses roaming free, some vanilla plantations, a group of giant tortoises enclosed in a pen and the house where they filmed the cult movie "Emmanuelle" there's nothing else to see. Curiously, as if it were a race to see who gets to the beach first, we meet our two room neighbours (Stefano and Cristina), also on their honeymoon, and during this stay we'll get to know them better and establish a friendship that will go beyond this trip.

Once we get near the beach, you leave the bicycles next to a small restaurant and, following the advice of a diary writer, I locked the bicycles with a padlock brought from home. In fact I'd read that it had happened to someone that their bicycle was no longer there when they came back from the beach and that they later found it at the supermarket. Some Italian who hasn't lost the habit? …..or the classic "it's a small world"? Who knows!?!? Once you reach the beach one of the most beautiful natural sights of your life will appear before you. A truly spectacular beach! Now I understand why Bilboa chose this beach to shoot its advertising spot! The beach is very white and the sea has crystal-clear water with endless shades of blue.

With every change in the sunlight it changes colour and every photo is different from the last! Luckily with modern digital cameras you can take an infinite number of photos at no cost, otherwise if I'd had an old film camera I'd have ruined my bank account! If you want another tip, besides the padlock and the tables at Rome airport, it's to get to this beach early, because as the tide comes in the beach tends to disappear.

La Digue - North East and North West Beaches

We dedicated this day to visiting the whole north-east area of the island, and it's here that my wife announced to me for the first time her intention to divorce! But it's not my fault if she wants to do the climbs without changing gears!!!! Anyway, apart from a few little climbs, the tour of the island is truly beautiful. The north-west beaches have a calmer sea, while the north-east ones have a very rough sea and very strong currents, so be careful when swimming. Among these beaches Anse Banane is the one that inspired me most even though they're nothing compared to Anse source d'argent

LA Digue - Grand Anse

Since by now we'd set the divorce date, I took the opportunity to take my sweet little wife to see the south-east side of the island. Obviously here too there are some nice climbs to do, but nothing insurmountable. The first beach you'll come across once you reach the south-east coast is Grand Anse. This beach too, made of very white sand like all the others, is surrounded by a rough sea since this side of the island isn't protected by the coral reef, as the west coast is instead. Swimming with all those waves made me feel a bit like a child again. From this beach it's possible to reach, via a small path through the forest, two other beaches, Petit Anse and Anse Cocos. Unfortunately I didn't see these two beaches, but they say they're wonderful, especially Anse Cocos. But for this, try reading Cristina and Stefano's diary (when they write it).

At midday we ate in the little restaurant right behind Grand Anse. Very characteristic, with all the tropical flowers hanging from the ceiling. (Worth trying…also because there aren't many alternatives around)

La Digue - Boat Trip

After a day spent in complete relaxation, the late afternoon was taken up with a romantic sunset boat trip, but here my Francy couldn't handle the excitement of taking photos next to handsome Stefano, and she felt ill! Strange that Cristina instead didn't have the same problem after taking photos with me! Should I be worried?!?! Joking aside…..there were a few little waves…..but I was busy eating the little pizzas offered by the boat owners and didn't notice the problem. Anyway, this little mishap will make us limit the use of the boat to only the necessary transfers between the various islands, avoiding further excursions to the smaller islands.

Transfer La Digue - Praslin

On this day we made the transfer to the island of Praslin where we spent the second part of our stay in the Seychelles. On this transfer I won't tell you the laughs Francy and Cri had watching the spray (by the bucketful) that came down on a lady who, in a very British way, remained unperturbed with every wave that hit her. So if you want to make this transfer on the upper part of the boat, take shelter in the seats near the wheelhouse……and be ready to watch the other passengers taking a bath! Once we arrived at the port our paths split, Cri and Ste went to the Paradise Sun, while Fra and I went to the Archipel. We agreed anyway that we'd get in touch to spend a few more days together also on the island of Praslin. Our hotel was truly spectacular. The room we stayed in was as big as the apartment we currently live in.

The only jarring note is that perhaps the food is a bit too suited to the French tastes of those who partly frequent this establishment. The food is very good……but the portions a bit scanty. In the dining room too you could easily tell who were the French, English and Italians. Them in rigorous silence…..and us Italians, after a day of settling in, put in the corner making a racket.

Praslin - Anse Gouvernament - Cote d'or

With the group of Italian kids we dedicate this day to taking a walk and relaxing along the beach of Cote d'or, next to the beach of Anse Gouvernament where our hotel is located. The beach is a couple of kilometres long and most of Praslin's hotels have been built on this beach. The bay is truly beautiful, floury sand and a sea that changes colour with every ray of sun. On the inland road that runs along the beach you'll find a Minimarket, an ice cream parlour run by an Italian, a couple of little souvenir shops and an unlimited number of rastas who will ask you if you'd like to change euros/rupees. Compared to the official exchange rate of 6.5 rupees per euro it's much more convenient since you can negotiate 10 or 11 rupees per euro, but be careful because it's not legal.

Because of this discrepancy between the official rate and the black market rate, the bay's restaurants take advantage of it by obligatorily asking foreign tourists to pay in euros using the official rate that suits them, while locals are asked to pay the bill in rupees. Just think, our daily group made up of 12 people wasn't accepted since we only had rupees to pay with. I understand the advantage on the official rate, but maybe a compromise could have been convenient both for our hunger and for their pockets!

Praslin

A day of tropical rain, so total relaxation at the hotel.

Praslin -VAllee de Mai - South Coast - Anse Lazio

The day seemed to be starting badly, cloudy weather and intermittent rain, but fortunately the weather changes often in the Seychelles, so a rainy day can turn into a beautiful day in a short time. After a brief phone call with Stefano and Cristina we decided to spend a day touring the island. After a quick stop at the supermarket on the road that also leads to the island's hospital, we headed for the Vallee de Mai national park, where you can see the famous "coco de mer" native to this island. Two pieces of advice to make the most of this park: 1) Wear sandals or tennis shoes, not simple flip-flops, to walk the slippery trails. 2) Take a guide to visit this park, you'll spend a few euros (not many), but in the end they'll explain in a simple and entertaining way the wonders of this corner of nature.

After this visit, we headed for the Lemuria Resort with the intention of seeing the famous Anse Georgette beach, the beach where they say Cast Away with Tom Hanks was filmed. Unfortunately, to access this beach you need to get the hotel's permission, and without it it's impossible to cross the resort's gigantic golf course. So at the hotel check-in we were turned away, but we left our details so we could access it the following day. If you want another tip, you can have the hotel where you're staying request this permit directly. With disappointment in our bodies and an empty stomach we went in search of the Britannia restaurant/hotel, where they say it's the best on the island culinarily speaking. Not having tried all the restaurants in the area, I don't know if this restaurant is actually the best, but I can say I ate well, and at an honest price.

Having satisfied our stomachs, we headed for the opposite side of the island, to see the famous Anse Lazio beach. To get to this beach we decided to take the coastal road, and the impression I had is that the north coast is more beautiful than the south coast. Once we reached Anse Lazio, still not having gotten over not seeing Anse Georgette, we rashly decided to reach the latter directly from Anse Lazio. After a 40-minute walk through the forest, we hadn't even reached the halfway point, but since sunset was expected in about a couple of hours, we decided to give up and turn back. The road back to the hotel, with Cristina at the wheel, will remain unforgettable. When I think back on it I still get chills! I won't tell you how many potholes we narrowly missed driving on the wrong side of the road.

Really funny!! Was that perhaps why the next day I rented the car with Francy?!?! A mystery!

Praslin - Anse Georgette - Anse Lazio

We rented the car right at the hotel entrance, and headed straight to Paradise Sun to pick up Stefano and Cristina. Obviously we went back to the Lemuria resort and this time we managed to get in. After parking the car, following a walk of about 20 minutes along the golf course circuit, we finally reached Anse Georgette. A truly beautiful beach, and even though the weather was a bit cloudy, it will stay in my memories forever! After yet another tropical downpour we headed for Anse Lazio, probably the most beautiful beach on the island, where we ate a gigantic fried fish platter at the Chevalier restaurant, right behind the beach. The afternoon spent on this beach was truly special. Very long swims and a few hundred photos taken on a fairy-tale beach.

The end of the day, when it was time to say goodbye to Stefano and Cristina, would be a bit melancholy, who knows if we'd ever see them again? (Fortunately our friendship has lasted beyond this trip)

Praslin - Shopping at Cote d'or

We spent the last day of our stay in the Seychelles giving free rein to my wife's urge to shop. I still remember clearly and distinctly my suffering carrying the shopping bags along the 2 km of the Cote d'or. A real via crucis! All that was missing was the Roman soldier with the whip and it would have been just like the famous story from 2000 years ago! Obviously, when it came time to pack for the return, my wife went into depression because she could no longer close the suitcase due to the too many souvenirs bought! (So divine justice does exist!!!)

Conclusions

If you're looking for something resembling paradise, all you have to do is visit the Seychelles, but if you're leaving from Rome remember to watch out for the little tables!