Seychelles, Out of This World

Here I am, back from the Seychelles. A wonderful trip to a country that seems to live outside the world. I organised everything by following the precious information drawn from the countless travel tales I read. I started by chance, looking on the internet for a flight to Mahé, and from there I just couldn't stop. Airline chosen: Qatar Airways, above all for the advantage of not having to leave from Rome but from Malpensa. Excellent flight with a stopover in Doha both outbound and on the way back. Fare locked a few months in advance at Euro 717,00. The next step was to request some documentation from the Seychelles Tourist Board in Rome. Efficient and quick, within a couple of days they sent a package to my home with lots of interesting brochures, maps and the information needed to organise the holiday.

I decided to split the available days over the three main islands: Mahè, Praslin and La Digue. Without wasting time I immediately sent some e-mails to the hotels and guest houses which, from the experiences of those who had gone before me and from the descriptions, seemed to my liking, and I waited for the replies, which weren't long in coming. Availability and prices in no time at all. The choice was truly hard. The accommodation options are the most varied, from the luxurious hotel to staying in villas. On the island of Mahè my preference fell on the Plantation Club Resort & Casino. The original idea was to go for the guest houses; that solution seemed to me an excellent compromise for living in close contact with the locals and avoiding the elegant resorts that tend to distort the reality around you. However, this village offered me a favourable rate that I simply couldn't turn down.

Euro 114,00 B&B for a double room per night. The property is very nice, equipped with every comfort. The rooms are mini-apartments and in the evening for 450 Rupees (€. 41,00) two people dine comfortably with a very rich international buffet. On arrival at the airport we immediately hired a car. Rate agreed at 50 Euros a day with the friendly Bernard of the car hire, who, besides the car, also offered to change Euros for us on the black market (1 Euro = 11 Rupees), decidedly more advantageous than at the bank (1 Euro = 6,3 Rupees). Driving on the left was the first (and I think only) hurdle to overcome. But nothing dramatic. After the first few kilometres I'd already got the hang of it. The main roads are asphalted but not very wide. However, when you meet the local buses speeding at crazy speed, avoiding a collision is a lottery.

Moreover, the edge of the road is bordered by a half-metre-deep drainage channel that puts you a bit on edge, especially during the first minutes of driving. In any case, a car on Mahè is truly indispensable. With it you can practically reach the beaches, which very often are quite far from the bus stop. The island is about thirty km long. In four days you can get around it far and wide. There are very wild beaches with waves that would challenge surfers, especially in the south-western part of the island, while towards the north there are bays that are decidedly calmer and good for swimming. In any case, every corner has its own charm. We devoted half a day to visiting Victoria, the capital. Very small and quiet. It's all a swarming of people. Unfortunately we were forced to tour it under a ceaseless downpour, but then again that day you really couldn't stay on the beach.

For the crossing Mahè-Praslin the alternatives were several. We opted for the flight with Air Seychelles, booked directly on arrival in Mahè. One leaves about every hour, but it's better to book it a little in advance, especially if you decide to change island on the days when intercontinental flights arrive and the bookings are many. The cost is Euro 59,00 each way. The experience is fun, if very short. The flight lasts about twenty minutes and gives you the chance to see the islands from above. A real spectacle. In Praslin the original idea was to get around the island on local buses, but we then opted to hire a car to avoid wasting too much time. The hotel chosen in Praslin was the Palm Beach. Nice and clean. Decidedly more modest than the previous one but still to be recommended.

Here the cost of a double room per night half board is Euro 140,00, which drops to Euro 126,00 if you opt to pay in cash. The hotel's beach isn't up to much, but the idea was to get around every centimetre of the island. Worth recommending is a visit to the Vallée de Mai (entry Euro 15,00 or $ 19,00). There are several possible trails, always well signposted. It's an excellent experience even on your own, but done with a guide it lets you discover unexpected details that you'd hardly manage to see. In Praslin the beaches worth noting are certainly Anse Lazio and Anse Georgette. The first is reachable by car along a very steep road. But there's no reason to be intimidated. Crystal-clear sea and truly scenic granite boulders repay the not exactly easy drive. For lunch the choice fell twice on Le Chevalier. Next to the beach. Good cuisine and affordable price.

Anse Georgette, on the other hand, is the legendary beach inside the ultra-luxurious Lemuria Resort. To visit it you have to announce yourself through your hotel the day before. It's possible to enter the resort by car, park it where the guard indicates, and set off on the fascinating path through the immaculately kept golf course. After about twenty minutes Anse Georgette comes into view. It's really worth taking the pleasant stroll to enjoy this memorable beach. Four days in Praslin truly flew by, and reluctantly I close the suitcase to move to the last island, without however denying myself a fantastic ice cream at the gelateria run by one of our compatriots, who besides serving memorable ice creams also offers pizzas and not-bad sandwiches. Very popular with Italians in need of national flavours.

It's called Luca and it's at Anse Volbert, a very long beach of incredibly fine white sand. A big ferry awaits us for the crossing to La Digue (euro 10 each way). Just over half an hour's crossing with a slightly rough sea, and here we are in another world… On arrival a taxi driver offers us the transfer to the guest house. Having loaded our suitcases onto a cart and hitched an unexpected ox, he took us to the Kot Babi guest house, 150 m from the port (sigh!) The beating heart of La Digue revolves around the port, so it's very often pointless to take a taxi. This guest house was certainly the best accommodation of the whole trip. Babi the owner, extremely courteous, and the rooms spacious. Our room, in the attic, with no fewer than four beds! Dinner punctually at 19.30. Everyone eats together at a long, convivial table. It was great fun. Babi cooks divinely.

In La Digue there are very few motor vehicles. The bicycle is the means used by tourists and locals. Little noise and no smog. On the island you can buy food of every kind at the very well-stocked Gregorie's supermarket. It's near the port. The best beaches are Grand Anse, with a slightly rough sea, the calmer Petite Anse and Anse Coco. The postcard-perfect one is certainly Anse Source d'Argent. Good Seychelles to everyone!!!