Wandering around Nosy Be and beyond

A year after my holiday in Nosy Be, I decided to publish a short 'travel report' in order to convey the emotions and feelings I experienced during this brief but intense adventure. Let me start by saying that I would have loved to discover the whole of Madagascar, but the time available to me and the time needed to organise the trip did not allow me to plan a proper tour. So I had to 'settle' (forgive the expression) for a largely seaside holiday on the island of Nosy Be. Yet, since the mere thought of being shut away in a resort for a week gave me goosebumps, I gathered as much information as possible and promptly put it into practice on the spot. Let me start from the beginning... I took off from Milan Malpensa on a scheduled Air Madagascar flight on Wednesday 22/06/05, accompanied by my sister and a friend. The departure was perfectly on time and the onboard service good.

The flight lasted about 9 hours. We arrive at the island's small airport at first light. As soon as we step off the plane you can breathe the air of Africa. All around there is a strange silence and a soothing calm... The journey to the resort took just under an hour, and the place of honour beside the driver allowed me to savour the first colours and the island waking up to activity along the whole route. We reach the resort (Andilana Beach) at 07.30 a.m. and are immediately greeted by the large group of entertainers who, alas, would 'torment' us for the whole holiday. I say this because I am not a fan of animation. I don't mind a bit of evening entertainment, but the idea of dancing 'the resort theme song' under the blazing sun or taking part in the usual darts tournaments, frankly, doesn't excite me. So I kept away from every kind of activity throughout the holiday.

Setting aside the first day, devoted entirely to settling in, from the next day onwards we set to work organising the excursions. Naturally we avoided being 'fleeced' by the tour operator and immediately contacted the beach boys (local lads who sell excursions at highly competitive prices). We had already tested this kind of experience the previous year in Zanzibar and, having had a wonderful time, we decided to repeat it. After an amusing bit of haggling, naturally aimed at lowering the cost of the excursions, we confirmed with Riccardo and Alfredo (beach boys leaders) the two main trips of the week. Pleased with the deal and the price we had negotiated, we decided to take a taxi and have ourselves driven into town for a quick visit. Our taxi driver, Samiel, first presents himself with a gruff, stern air, which he immediately drops as soon as we break the ice with conversation.

With our French leaning more towards Milanese, we manage to glean from him some information about local life, religion, customs and traditions of every kind. Half an hour's drive in his precarious (but don't tell him) Renault 9 to reach Hell Ville, the capital of the island. I should say that the car's instruments were totally out of order and after ten minutes on the road the car began to show signs of giving up. Without panicking, the legendary Samiel opened the bonnet and pulled out the air filter (at least I think so), deciding that for the moment it wasn't so indispensable. Having thrown the spare part into the boot, we set off again as if nothing had happened. Once in town we agree on the time to head back. From Hell Ville, honestly, we would have expected something more. In reality it is a teeming throng of people, apparently busy, moving along the two main arteries of the city.

A quick glance at the fruit market, the fish market and a few shops, then a quiet wander here and there until it is time to head back. A couple of days later the time finally comes for the first real excursion. We can't sit still. Destination: Nosy Iranja. After a short coach ride, I and the group with whom we spent the whole day are transferred onto two speedboats which, in a little over an hour, take us to this place that is not far short of paradise. Nosy Iranja, in fact, is made up of two islands linked by a scenic tongue of sand that appears and disappears with the turn of the tides. We touch land and I realise that here the colours of the sea blend with those of the sky. A couple of hours for swimming, relaxing and photos, then everyone to the table. The impeccable organisation of our fabulous trip leaders is truly worthy of praise.

They improvised a giant grill on which they cooked six kilos of lobsters, crabs galore, langoustines and prawns. A true feast of shellfish, which we attacked without mercy. The meal ended with immense platters of the sweetest fruit and, would you believe it, a fantastic coffee that could easily rival the resort's. Return to base in the late afternoon and an aperitif by the pool. Now, speaking of the aperitif... This is one of those moments when you relax, thinking back over the intense day just gone, enjoying the spectacular sunsets that Africa gifts every evening. Well, pity that the animation team's 'CROSSWORD' right at sunset wipes out all the poetry. The next day, another early start for the second excursion. Trip planned to the islands of Nosy Tanikely and Nosy Komba.

After a quick speedboat ride (the same as the day before) we leave our cook to work her magic on the island of Tanikely and head off to discover Nosy Komba. At Komba we find a friendly village with children everywhere handing out smiles to everyone for free. The scent of cinnamon and vanilla envelops the whole village. All the same, they are the local spices... We head into the forest with the trip leader. We are greeted by a troop of lemurs who, as soon as they notice our supply of bananas, jump on our shoulders to savour their little lunch. They are sociable, friendly, soft and harmless. Their only aim is to secure their daily rations. We enjoy it so much that we can't tear ourselves away from them. But the surprises aren't over yet. A few more minutes inside the forest and here we are face to face with a couple of 'docile' boa snakes.

After the first moments of hesitation, someone decides to pluck up courage and seek out contact. Of course, I couldn't possibly miss out on the experience with the boa. Continuing along the path, here is a turtle and a couple of chameleons. Gentle and calm, they let themselves be stroked without showing the slightest discomfort. The time available to us for the visit is up; we must return to Nosy Tanikely, where a succulent little lunch awaits us. A second helping of lobster and crab followed by a restorative nap in the shade of a palm. Then, with fins and mask, off for the fantastic snorkelling. Beautiful! Wonderful fish with unmistakable colours. We even managed to swim with a sea turtle. By now baked by the sun and by a day full of emotions, we return to the resort accompanied by the 'usual African sunset'.

Not wanting to miss out on anything, on the last evening we take the usual battered taxi, an old Renault 4, and head to Mont Passot, where we enjoy, with nostalgia in our hearts, the last marvellous sunset. I hope to have another opportunity soon to visit all that was left out during this holiday, which I would recommend to anyone, especially nature lovers.