Welcome to Paradise

This is meant less as a "spoiler" story than as a help to those who, like us, love holidaying freely without the help of a tour operator.

FLIGHT

After various searches, we saw that in May Air Seychelles was offering low prices compared to Qatar Airways and Air France (the main airlines serving the Seychelles) and we "got away" with 780 euros each + 100 for the internal Mahe-Praslin flight, without the hassle of intermediate stopovers. During the trip we learned from two German tourists that Condor (Lufthansa) also offers really low prices but with departures from Munich.

EXCHANGE

In all the guides and travel catalogues you'll find advice about paying by credit card or in euros! THAT'S NOT TRUE!! In the Seychelles, albeit illegally, black-market exchange is very widespread, where the locals will offer to change 1 euro for 10 rupees on average. If you change more than 50 euros they sometimes even go up to 11 rupees. Bear in mind that the official exchange rate in 2006 is around 7 rupees; so the black-market rate lets you save a good 30% on prices. If taxi drivers ask you to pay in euros too, tell them you only have rupees.

PRASLIN (3 nights)

We stayed at the Rosemary GuestHouse in Anse Volbert on the Cote D'Or. They have 4 rooms with a ceiling fan, nice but not too fancy, with direct access onto the beautiful beach with a view of the islet of Saint Pierre. Breakfast of fruit, coffee, bread and jam. Price 70 euros for the double room with breakfast.

To see: - Anse Lazio - a very famous beach, absolutely worth seeing; - Excursion to Saint Pierre and Couriose Island, for snorkelling and a walk among the giant Seychelles tortoises and the mangrove forests and equatorial vegetation; - Anse Kerlane, which no one talks about, but which in our view is really worth seeing; - Anse Volbert - a blindingly white beach and a sea in 1000 shades of blue; - Anse Georgette - we didn't manage to see it, but since everyone talks about it, try asking the Lemuria Resort well in advance for permission, since access is closed to ordinary tourists.

To eat: - Pizzeria/gelateria Da Luca (Anse Volbert) - first and second courses perhaps too Italianised, pizza and ice cream. prices from 50 Rupees

- Le Goulue (Anse Volbert) - typical Creole dishes for a pleasant evening, prices from 50 rupees

Getting around: - bike only for the area near your accommodation - bus - the ticket costs only 3 rupees and there are 3 lines serving the whole island. Be careful not to board with bulky luggage, it's not allowed. They're very punctual with the times posted at the various stops. - car - could be useful if you want to tour the island completely on your own and if you're lazy and don't fancy walking to reach the various beaches.

LA DIGUE (3 nights)

We stayed at the Sunshine GuestHouse in La Passe, 500 metres from the jetty. They have 4 rooms with a fan and mosquito net, a typical building surrounded by palms and directly facing the sea, with the chance to enjoy fantastic sunsets with Praslin in the background. The owners are extremely kind. Breakfast of coffee, bread and jam and eggs (if you like!). Price 64 euros for the double room with breakfast. Without breakfast it's 50 a night. We'd advise you not to take breakfast and to make the most of the very well-stocked Gregoire's, the biggest supermarket on the island, where every morning you'll find delicious warm croissants, muffins and various treats.

To see: - Anse Souse D'Argent - a hugely popular beach but of an unheard-of beauty; enjoy it in the afternoon after 16:00, when the tourists start to leave and the sunlight lights up the granite, creating stunning plays of colour; - Grande Anse, Petit Anse, Anse Coco - they're one after another, joined by a mountain path (follow the arrows on the rocks so you don't get lost) and swimmable depending on the time of year; - Anse Patates, it's practically the beach of the Patran village, where you can snorkel in complete peace; - Anse Severe - pretty and quiet;

To eat: - Zerof - typical Creole dishes, a la carte lunch (from 50 rupees) and a fixed menu at dinner (110 rupees) - Chez Marston - typical Creole dishes and pizza, prices from 50 rupees

Getting around: - the bike is the only means, besides the ox-drawn cart (!!), for touring the island in complete peace (price for 2 days and a half: 140 rupees for 2 bikes)

MAHE (2 nights)

We stayed at the Beau Vallon Boungalow in Beau Vallon. High quality for the price. Breakfast of tropical fruit (some never seen before!), coffee, bread and jam and pancakes. Price 60 euros for the double room with breakfast. Air conditioning.

To see: - Beau Vallon - it's the best-known beach on this island, lovely especially for a swim at sunset; - Anse Intendance - very high waves, but worth it for the view; - Anse Bouganville - a very peaceful beach where you can snorkel; - Anse Takamaka - another beautiful and quiet beach; - Anse La Mouche - very calm water of an intense green; - Port Launay - a bay with calm water, best avoided on Sundays because it's thronged with locals who go there with their families.

To eat: - Boat House (Beau Vallon) - buffet of Creole dishes, vegetables and grilled fish (130 rupees) - Baobab Pizzeria (Beau Vallon) - pizza cooked by locals, very similar to ours (from 50 rupees) - restaurant opposite Anse La Mouche (we don't remember the name) - along the road next to the fitness centre, where you eat really well (from 50 rupees)

Getting around:

- bus - worth it only for the price, but as it's a bigger island, reckon the distances. - car - very useful if you have little time and want to see as much as possible.