Kenya in February

The story · 2 days

This trip left a mark on our hearts. The most intense colours, the different scents, the wild nature and the hospitable people - in short, now we too suffer from Africa sickness. Seized by a sudden urge to escape, we booked a week in Kenya. We booked this trip with Teorema Tour at the Coconut Village, all inclusive in Malindi. Legend: ° worth seeing; °° not to be missed; ^ can be missed; ^^ to be avoided

Departure from Milan Malpensa on a Lauda Air charter flight. We parked at Malpensa Park Auto, cost 51 euros. A foggy and chilly day, obligatory check-in and off we go, flight at 17.00. We arrive at Mombasa airport at 5.00 local time (+1 h) and the impact is very harsh: it must already be 30 degrees and it's only 5 in the morning. We go from jumper to t-shirt and immediately join the queue for the entry visa, 40 dollars each. Finally, after a bit of confusion, we leave the airport looking for the minibus that will take us to our hotel. It's 5.30 in the morning and there's a fantastic light, more intense colours, fragrant flowers - in short, what can I say, we've gone from fog to paradise and we feel quite euphoric.

The minibus journey is tiring, because to cover the 100 km from Mombasa to Malindi takes us 3 hours, but it's always interesting to see new places and rhythms of life even from the minibus; here not all the roads are asphalted and, when they are, they're full of potholes, so you drive at 50/60 an hour. But finally here we are! At 9 we've arrived at our village, the Coconut Village°°, and to welcome us we find two kind attendants: one with a lovely fresh fruit cocktail, the other with a small sponge towel, damp and cold from the fridge. A real treat because meanwhile the temperature has risen... Palm trees, here we come! We settle by the pool on a sun lounger (they provide the towels), sunscreen factor 50 (don't be lazy, we're on the equator, you'll burn) and a nap.

For today the plan is total idleness: sea, pool, food, drinks and a final show at the adjacent village, the Kilili, which tonight offers a performance where the real and imposing Maasai will sing and dance the songs of their people.

Day 19 Feb 2009

Safari in Tsavo East

SUNDAY

Today too the day involves idleness and sea. They accompany us along the beach toward a cove that here they call the Jacuzzis°° (at the foot of Briatore's house): it's a beach with pools of crystal-clear and warm water and it really gives the impression of being in a bathtub. Today we discovered the beach-boys. Along the whole beach you'll be perpetually pestered by guys who insistently offer you purchases, exchanges, trips, it's impossible to be left alone. TACTIC: you pick a guy you like most, buy something from him and tell all the others that you're doing business only with him. You always carry one around with you but in exchange the others leave you in peace. Lunch and dinner are buffets which we find very varied, well cared for and of quality. By 2 pm the village entertainers organize a tour of Malindi in a tuktuk and a visit to a wood factory.

It seemed to us really a touristy little tour, Casino, Vasco da Gama Tower°, but overall it was nice, above all seeing the factory where they build all the wooden objects, which are a bit more expensive here than at the beach boys' stalls, but you have the certainty that the money really goes to whoever works it.

MONDAY

This morning I woke up at an impossible time! It's 5.30 but outside the sun is rising and it's beautiful and very strange to wake up at this time with an already high temperature and with the colors of dawn that are wonderful. After the poetic part I plant myself under a palm on the beach and sleep some more. (Have I already said that coming out of our room we're already on the beach?) At the equator the sun rises at 6 and sets at 18.00 and there's no arguing! For today we arranged with our beach boy for a trip on the coral reef and so at 8 with low tide we witness a beautiful spectacle... corals, starfish, vegetation never seen before. In the afternoon we visit the Reptilarium°. How nice! It's full of crocodiles, they let you hold the small ones in your arms, the big ones it's better to look at from afar.

There's a sign that says: no entry, whoever crosses gets eaten! Cool! And then there are the giant turtles that chase you to get a banana which they're greedy for and then the snakes and if you have courage they lend you a nice bigbig python to take a photo with.

TUESDAY

For today the safari is scheduled. We booked it directly with the village, cost for 3 people 465 dollars, but if you want to save, you can do it through your beach boy. The alarm is at 4.45, a quick and sleepy breakfast and at 5.30 we're in the jeep heading to Tsavo East°° park. The trip lasts about 2 hours and as soon as we enter some splendid elephants welcome us. What an emotion! And then giraffes, impala, gazelles, baboons, crocodiles along the river. There's no story that can prepare you for this! It's a breathtaking spectacle that makes you feel that your gaze isn't enough to embrace the splendid panorama with Kilimanjaro in the background and the animals of which we are merely intruding spectators. At lunchtime there's a stop at a specially set up camp Tahri Eco Camp° and wrapped in the heat we refresh ourselves with a very varied and tasty buffet.

Then we set off again in search of monkeys and hippos but evidently the heat is too much even for them. A tip for those who can do it: one day of safari is nice and cheaper, but very tiring, if you can, stay out two days, so at night you can see the lions and leopards that come out to hunt, while during the day they sleep in the cool holed up somewhere. We did only one day because we freaked out about malaria which we hadn't done prophylaxis for, and the mosquitoes are only there at night. We also found the return journey very interesting passing through remote villages and dirt and sandy roads, passing children waved at us and we threw them candies and bottles of water.

Day 211 Feb 2009

Sea Safari

WEDNESDAY

Today total idleness to recover from yesterday's safari, so maximum effort pool, sea, cocktails, food, sun, pool....

THURSDAY

With our personal beach boy we booked the sea safari °° and it was fantastic. Calculate about 50 dollars each. They came to pick us up at the hotel and took us to the marina where all the boats leave for the safaris. Our private little boat was a rickety thing that couldn't have been more so, but pole-pole (slowly slowly.. great life philosophy) we set off. Then the engine broke down but pole-pole.. they towed us, meanwhile you could take a dip here and there and have a little swim and then finally here's paradise! A very white atoll in the middle of the sea, water depth 20 centimeters, temperature 30 degrees and then the final blow our captain pulls out from I don't know where a barbeque and plants it in the middle of the water, about thirty little lobsters, prawns to your heart's content and off with the fire.

It had never happened to me to eat in the middle of the sea with the water at my ankles! Then in no time at all little coconut boats pop out of nowhere with some nice Kenyans selling bracelets, pareos, statues, wooden masks. Haggle until you drop and if you say you have no money barter is fine too. We exchanged t-shirts and flip-flops for some batiks and very beautiful pareos. They also really appreciate wide-brimmed hats... stock up before leaving home.

FRIDAY

Idleness and rest! Despite the 50 protection yesterday in the middle of the sea we got a bit burned and today we take it easy. In the afternoon we visited a school run by Italians, the Bakhita Center in Majungu°. It's a school where all children are invited and encouraged to go despite the conditions being very difficult; just think that many of them have to set off on foot well before dawn to be at school on time because their villages are far away and they have no means of transport. If you too go to visit a school remember to bring from home pens, pencils, colors, if you have room notebooks. They don't ask for money but school supplies. They're eager to learn and study, they understand it's their future. Before leaving, since tomorrow is the last day, we also left at the school all the medicines we had with us.

To us it seems a silly thing to leave half-used boxes of band-aids or any kind of medicine including mosquito spray but for them it's of enormous usefulness.

SATURDAY

It's over! We're going home and before setting off again we leave our beach boys the toothpaste, the shampoo, the last mosquito spray, the flip-flops, an Italy t-shirt in exchange for bead bracelets and fake ivory necklaces saying goodbye to everyone with jambo and hakuna matata to our heart's content. Attention the trade of ivory and coral is severely prohibited and if they offer it to you refuse because anyway at the airport they notice and give you a hefty fine. Forget about it because anyway at home the little piece of coral says nothing while it's part of the beautiful landscape you were able to enjoy also thanks to those who don't strip it by taking away little pieces.

Our return home with a Blue Panorama scheduled flight was sad and the usual Milan fog welcomed us. We could only console ourselves with a splendid tan in mid-February, with our purchases and the photos but above all with our memories. We plan to return soon!

NOTES: Visa: the entry visa costs 40 dollars each. Currency: until a few years ago only dollars were accepted, but obviously they prefer euros equating it to the dollar, however we also recommend the Kenyan Shilling (KES) = 0.0097 euros (1 euro = 102.92 KES) for small purchases (tips) so they can't cheat you too much with the exchange rate. Health: from a health point of view our doctor had advised us against taking antimalarials, because in the villages along the coast there are no mosquitoes. As a precaution we did the anti-typhoid prevention. Weather: Average temperature around 40°C. Absolutely mandatory to bring sunglasses, hats, and plenty of sunscreen Language: obviously English mandatory, but Malindi is practically an Italian colony and so don't worry even with gestures.

Total cost of the holiday for a family of 3 people (2 adults + 15-year-old son): FLIGHT AND ALL INCLUSIVE HOTEL: 2 adults + 1 child who up to 16 years is FREE and pays only airport taxes and insurance: € 2,800.00 Various safaris, purchases, and whatever else € 0.00 total 8 nights 3 people € 3,900.00

If you want advice, impressions and various or if you want to leave us your comment contact us at our e-mail address: alpatom@libero.it

We recommend the guides that gave us the indications on the places to visit: Lonely Planet Kenya, Routard Kenya.