Germany, Denmark and the Czech Republic by Camper

from Padua to Fuessen, then to Munich and Dachau

FUESSEN

THURSDAY

Our first destination is Fuessen (M)°, which is in the Bavarian Alps on the border with Austria. We leave Padova on Thursday and already hit a bit of traffic, but it's fairly smooth. At the Austrian border don't forget to buy the vignette: a single-payment sticker valid on all Austrian motorways. Cost: 7.70, valid 10 days (you can't get less). Anyway, near Innsbruck there's another toll of 8 euros. Once we arrive in Fuessen (M)°, we stop at the rest area (M) which is just outside the town but still convenient for those with bikes and with 2 markets next door. The area is full because we arrived in the evening, but we still find a spot, though a bit cramped. As soon as we're settled we immediately take a little stroll around the town, which is small and welcoming with picturesque little streets.

The town and its surroundings are worth an even longer stop because it's surrounded by no fewer than 5 lakes, all connected to each other by beautiful cycle paths. We pass by the characteristic fountain near the tourist information office where we pick up the appropriate maps. But the thing that drew us here is the famous Neuschwanstein Castle (H)(W)°° which we'll visit tomorrow morning; tickets can be bought at the ticket office in the village at the foot of the castles.

FRIDAY

We set off early; the ride is easy and pleasant, about 4 km to reach the castles of Neuschwanstein (H)(W)°° and Hohenschwangau (M). To look at it, it really seems straight out of the Sleeping Beauty fairy tale. It's definitely worth visiting; it was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria, a sensitive and contradictory character whose fascinating story is continually evoked during the visit, and there are only frescoes and views. Don't miss the outdoor walk that leads to a suspension bridge from which you can admire the gorge, the little lake and a fantastic view of the castle. Before heading back we do a bike ride around the Alpsee°, the lake at the foot of the village, where the swans swim.

MUNICH / MUENCHEN

We set off again to reach Munich (W)°° and, since we'd already been there, after about 130 km we go straight to the Thalkirchen campsite (Zentrallandstrasse 49) (H). The campsite itself is nothing special, but the great thing is that it's close to the centre, surrounded by greenery and with a cycle path running along the Isar° river. The roughly 6 km ride to the centre is very pleasant and suitable for everyone, but those without a bike will find the bus stop at the campsite entrance. (tickets sold at reception, 1.50 each).

SATURDAY

There are many things to see in the centre; we follow Maximilianstrasse° until we reach Max Joseph Platz°, where the National Theatre is, we turn right towards Residenzstrasse to head to Odeonsplatz°°, the beautiful square where we'll find the Residenz° gardens on the right and the Theatinerkirche (W)° on the left, then we turn back onto Theatinerstrasse°, a street full of fashionable shops. Continuing on, we realise we're almost beneath the two bell towers that characterise the famous Frauenkirche (W)°. We abandon our bikes because we're practically on Munich's main street, the very crowded Kaufingerstrasse°°, we come across the Michaelskirche (W)° and make it all the way to the Karlstor°, the gate marking the western edge of the centre.

We turn back because don't forget you're in Marienplatz°°, where the Neue Rathaus (M)(new town hall)°° is, and at 12, 5 or 9 you can watch the carillon with the puppets on the clock tower that comes to life as the hour strikes. We're hungry and to keep it light we go to Orlandostrasse 3, to one of the VINZENZMURR chain restaurants. It's a self-service place where you'll find salads by weight, ready-made dishes or takeaway at really great prices. (we spent 24 euros for 3 people). Here we're just a stone's throw from the famous Hofbraeuhaus brewery (Platzl 9)(W)(M)°°, but we'll come back there for dinner, also because the square where it's located is one of the most beautiful in the city. We hop on our bikes to head to Sedlingerstrasse, where the Asamkirche°° with its beautiful Baroque facade is, and we reach the Sedlinger Tor° marking the southern edge of the historic centre.

It's now time for dinner at the famous Hofbraeuhaus brewery (Platzl 9)(W)(M)°°, an old and enormous brewery with big tables and benches and a band playing Bavarian music. The pork knuckle is famous, and a pint of beer (excellent!) cost 45 euros for three people. Cheerful and satisfied, we head back to our camper and, given the distance, by the time we finally reach the campsite our litre of beer has been completely burned off! Along the Isar route it's full of young people improvising parties and barbecues on the riverbank.

SUNDAY

Today we're going to the Deutsches Museum (W)(M)°, the science and technology museum. (open daily from 9 to 17.00, cost 9 euros each) Nice and old, though after seeing the brand-new Nemo in Amsterdam or the one in Lisbon, this one seemed to us really a bit too old and often with many rooms out of order, but still very comprehensive. The fact is we spend a good 5 hours there and then go for a wander around the Viktualienmarkt°° to grab a bratwurst sandwich and a beer. The market is full of local colour: fruit, vegetables, local specialities, handcrafted objects… in the centre of the square there's a totem with the banners of the beers brewed in Munich: Augustiner (W)(M), Hacker-Pschorr (W)(M), HB (W)(M), Loewenbraeu (W)(M), Paulaner (W)(M), Spaten (W)(M).

Before heading back to the campsite we also recommend a stop in the centre at Marienplatz at ICE, a pastry shop where you'll find an unforgettable chocolate and raspberry cake. Even though they would have deserved a visit, the Neue Pinakothek (H)(M) and Nymphenburg Castle (H)(M), we have to set off for Copenhagen.

Thalkirchen campsite cost: 8 euros per pitch / adults 4.70 / electricity 4 / showers for a fee - cash payment only. Weather: hot, sunny and high temperature.

MONDAY

We're off again! Our destination is actually Copenhagen, but to break up the rather long journey we decide to stop first in Dachau and then in Hameln. Dachau (W) is about 30 km north of Munich and we're interested in the Concentration Camp (W)(M)°, indicated as KZ-Gedenkstaette Dachau. There are no words to describe the place, which was the first extermination camp of the Third Reich and where mostly local citizens were conscripted (and so it's hard to understand how the townspeople could have been unaware of what was happening inside...). The visit takes us 2 hours and, somewhat shocked, we continue our journey.

Hameln, Denmark, Moen, Copenhagen

HAMELIN / HAMELN

The journey proves long and tiring (600 km) and we hit quite a few traffic jams (they have them in Germany too, not just in Italy), which brought the journey time from 5 to 9 hours. For those who know fairy tales, Hameln (M)° is the town of the Pied Piper (S)(Rattenfaengen) from the Brothers Grimm and it's said to be a charming place. Exhausted, we head to the Hannes Weserblick camper rest area (Ruthenstrasse 14), (22 spaces), which is right in the town centre and luckily enough we find the last free spot, with the parking meter out of order. Even though it's late, we decide to take a little stroll around the town after dinner. From the rest area a path follows the Weser river and leads straight into the centre (10 minutes). But the town turns out to be very deserted… Must be the time? Everyone already in bed? Oh well, we'll try again tomorrow morning. Good night.

TUESDAY

Here we are, ready to explore this nice little town… hey, the impression from last night is the same this morning… but where is everyone??? Cute little town, all centred on the story of the Pied Piper (Rattenfaengen) and you can visit it in a couple of hours; the views are lovely, the photos are lovely, but it's a bit desolate. And also the route marked with little mice is hard to make out… We walk along the main street Baekerstrasse° and then Osterstrasse°, where the Pied Piper's House is, and we wander into the alleys that attract us most… and then we set off again…

MOEN

Denmark, here we come! (Danish krone exchange rate 1 euro = 7.44 kroner). We decide to take the ferry from Puttgarden (H), 350 km away from Hameln, because the route is shorter and there are more ferries. On arrival we find a station like motorway toll booths, organised and fast. Cost for 1 camper and 3 people: 64 euros. The whole thing proves very efficient; everyone in their own lane, zap, on quickly, already departed, half an hour of ferry to Roedbyhavn, zap, everyone off, shoo, quick! Before going to Copenhagen we decide to stop for a day on Mon, an island with wonderful cliffs 100 km from Roedbyhavn. At the tip of the island is the Mons Klint campsite (H)°, very nice and very well organised (price per night camping + 3 people + electricity 334 Danish kroner, about 48 euros, hot water showers for a fee).

WEDNESDAY

What lured us to this place was the brochure showing white cliffs and vast green meadows, and indeed what strikes you here is the silence, the sound of the wind, the seagulls, nature, peace and tranquillity. Opposite the campsite entrance a path sets off through meadows and woods until it reaches the edge of the Moens Klint cliff (H)°°. 500 wooden steps lead down to the beach at the foot of the steep white cliffs. The water is transparent and not particularly cold and the beach is made of black stones. Weather: it seems that in the morning it's always rather gloomy with big clouds and light drizzle, then around midday the wind sweeps everything away and the sun comes out until evening.

THURSDAY

We set off again towards Copenhagen. We immediately make a short stop at the little church of Elmelunde°, very cute and characteristic, and further on in the centre of the town of Stege, the main town on the island.

COPENHAGEN / KOEBENHAVN

After 142 km we arrive in Copenhagen (H)(T) and decide to stay at the Bellahoej campsite (Hvidkildevej 66)^. It's not really a proper campsite but a large green field where you can pitch wherever you like. Electricity is provided but don't expect much… of course all the facilities are there but it's a very spartan place; however it's spacious and convenient for getting into the centre, 4.5 km: (bike or bus) 232 kroner per day, about 33 euros (pitch/3 people/electricity). We immediately set off on our trusty bikes and begin exploring the city. But first we go to the tourist information office (M) for the appropriate maps.

We take as our reference point the Tivoli amusement park (W)(H)(there's an entrance fee too), we pass by the National Museum (W)(H)°, interesting because it illustrates Danish history and above all free, Christiansborg Slot (W), the Stock Exchange building (Boersen) with its characteristic tower topped by a twisted dragon-tail spire, we stop in Kongens Nytorv° square by the city's most famous shopping centre, Magasin (they have nice stuff but it's rather expensive). Finally we reach Nyhavn°°, the picturesque tourist harbour, then we continue to Amalienborg Slot°°, the royal residence on the octagonal square, the nearby Marmorkirken, a circular church with beautiful interiors, and Newsky Kirke, a Russian Orthodox church with golden domes.

We've finally arrived at the obligatory sight of the famous Little Mermaid° (the Little Mermaid, den lille Havfrue), we pass by the Kastellet°, the star-shaped fortified citadel with lovely windmills on the ramparts, and finally we go to Rosenborg Slot (H)°° and the beautiful park surrounding it. To finish, we spend the evening on the Stroeget°°, which is practically the centre of Copenhagen and runs from the City Hall, Raehuspladsen°, to Nytorv° and Hoejbro Plads°. On our way back we check that we've cycled a good 19 km.

FRIDAY

It's raining, but here the wind is so strong that within an hour the sun comes out too, so, bundled up in fleeces, we head back into the centre. This morning is dedicated to beer; in fact we're going to visit the famous Carlsberg brewery, but since we're on bikes and it's 8 km from the campsite, we first pass through the beautiful, lush Frederiksberg Have° park and its palace and Soendermarken, which also contains the zoo. The visit to the famous Carlsberg brewery (W)(Gamle Carlsbergvej 11)° begins: entrance 60 kroner (8.50 euros), up to 17 years old 40 kroner (5.50 euros), including 2 tastings each, under-17s reduced entrance with a soft drink. A little tipsy and cheerful from the double beer (excellent) drunk on an empty stomach, we set off on our bikes to finish and complete our tour of the centre.

We go to Christianhavn with its canals, Vor Frelsers kirke°°, from whose spiral bell tower you can enjoy a splendid 360° panorama of the city (with a clear sky, even the very nearby Sweden), then we pass through the very alternative Christiania (M)° which we venture into as far as Pusher Street (a name that says it all!). Then we return to the Stroeget°°, where we calmly wander into the side streets, and we eat at the Manhattan Deep Pan Pizza House^, a self-service place of the "all you can eat" type with quality that's nothing to write home about (but cheap). On our way back we check that we've cycled a good 28 km.

Weather: strong wind that easily brings rain, especially at night and in the morning, sunshine for the rest of the day, although a very fine drizzle that no one seems to take any notice of is not unusual. Temperature: fleece-jacket weather.

We can confirm that Denmark is rather expensive, whether because of the Danish krone/euro exchange rate (7.40) or the higher cost of living. And anyway we didn't find anything truly typical to buy apart from smoked herrings and a good stock of salmon. Cycling around is calm and safe, even though they haven't yet discovered the use of roundabouts and the streets are teeming with traffic lights. You sense a strong feeling of safety, so much so that everyone rides around on bikes leaving bags and computers unattended in their rear baskets… (us too!!!)

SATURDAY

Reluctantly we leave Copenhagen and point the nose of our camper south.

Lubeck, Berlin

LUBECK / LUEBECK

After taking the ferry to Roedbyhavn we make a short stop after 270 km in Lubeck (H)°, known for its gate (Holstentor)°° and whose historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (W). You can easily find parking by following the signs towards the centre and taking a left, or for those wanting to stay more than a day, at the Schoenboecken campsite (H). After picking up the map at the tourist information office (H), we begin our tour, passing the Cathedral, then the Synagogue, the beautiful Market Square (Markt)°° and its arcade, the Town Hall (Rathaus) in glazed brick, and behind it the Marienkirche (M)°, also in brick; we continue along the pedestrian street Breite Strasse, passing St. Jakobi, until the Burgtor, which is the northern gate out of the city. The city is famous for the marzipan it has produced since the 1800s.

Curious, we tried it at Niederegger (H) but we think the top prize should stay with Sicily.

BERLIN /BERLIN

SUNDAY We arrive in Berlin (H)(T)(2) after 330 km, a bit worried about whether we'd find a spot; today the World Athletics Championships start, but all in all the wait of a couple of hours for spots to free up at the Internationale Reisemobilstation Berlin-Mitte^ rest area on Chauseestrasse was worth it (cost 19 euros per night, cash payment). The area where we stay is fairly packed, with poor facilities and not very welcoming, but it has the recognised advantage of being close to the centre (3 km), well served both by cycle paths and by the underground (public transport). The rest area is right on the border of the Wall and if you feel like it you can follow its route; there's a nice series of cycle paths, the Wall (Berliner Mauer)(M).

Our first stop is Unter den Linden (under the lime trees)°, the monumental avenue running from the Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor)°° (M) to the Cathedral (H)°. Here we witness the opening of the games and the marathon, which was very exciting since Italy was in the lead for almost the entire race. A bit overheated, we resume our tour of the city; under the Gate is the Tourist Office, where we buy the appropriate map. Since Unter den Linden, the city's monumental avenue, is jammed because of the marathon, in the meantime we head towards Potsdamer Platz. We come across the Holocaust Memorial (M)°°, an area on a gentle slope carpeted with stylised concrete tombs, impressive. With our bikes we ride alongside the Tiergarten (M)° and head off, leaving Potsdamerplatz (M)° to also pay a visit to the futuristic Sony Center (M)°.

Then we move to Tauentzienstrasse to the KaDeWe (M)°, the city's most famous department store, where there really is everything (we recommend the toy floor with every possible Lego spare part and a very comprehensive range of models). Continuing on, we notice the Berlin Sculpture symbolising the reunification of the city. We're now close to Breitscheidplatz°° square, where the famous Gedaechtniskirche (H)° is, the ruined church that symbolises the war. From the square begins the Ku'damm (Kuerfuerstendamm)°, Berlin's most important shopping street and where the city's most renowned fashion shops are. On the opposite side of Breitscheidplatz is the Zoo (M), then we enter the Tiergarten (M)°, the big park, and return to the Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor)(M)°° because a concert awaits us. When we get back to the camper we note that today we covered 16 km.

MONDAY

Another day of wandering around, and we plan to visit the Pergamon Museum (M)° and the Altes Museum (M), located on the so-called Museum Island (Museumsinsel)(M), declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site (H); it's an island formed by the Spree, the river that runs through Berlin; to get there we go along Oranienburgerstrasse, where among other things the New Synagogue is. Then we move on to the Cathedral (H)°, which marks the edge of Unter den Linden°°, the historic heart of the city dotted with buildings, museums and squares to visit, all recently renovated because we remember that this whole area was the GDR, i.e. beyond the western Wall. We stop at Bebelplatz (M)°°, where the Nazis burned books deemed dangerous, and the Catholic Cathedral of St. Hedwig with its beautiful dome (interior not particularly interesting).

Then we venture into Gendarmenmarkt (M)°, a symmetrical square with 2 similar churches side by side, we continue and cross the Spree again to go to Nikolaiviertel (St Nicholas's quarter)°, small and characteristic because this is where Berlin was born, with narrow streets converging towards the Nikolaikirche. Since we're here, even though we're starving, we finish the tour and head back towards Alexanderplatz (M), passing the Rotes Rathaus (town hall). The square is dominated by the Fernsehturm (TV tower)(H)°, always visible everywhere in the city. It can be visited and the spherical upper part rotates 360°, they say you get an exceptional view. For lunch we stop to eat noodles at Oliva on Rosenthaler Strasse 44, a nice and inexpensive place. We set off again towards Check Point Charlie (M), the famous crossing and exchange point between the two once-divided parts of the city.

We go along Friederickstrasse° and reach our destination; the place itself isn't much to look at, apart from the interesting Wall Museum next door and the fact that from now on we'll remember that that red line we occasionally crossed on our routes represents the stretch of the Wall (Berliner Mauer)(M), which is now almost entirely demolished. We continue the tour to visit the Juedisches Museum (H)(M) and then Topography of Terror (H), a moving open-air exhibition tracing the history of Nazism. It's now dinnertime, we're a bit tired, some of the recommended German cuisine places are closed, and so on the way home we find a place also recommended by the Routard guide; we go for Lebanese, Dada Falafel°, and we confirm it's really excellent and inexpensive. When we get back to the camper we note that today we covered 18 km.

TUESDAY

On our bikes we ride Berlin far and wide, passing the ultra-modern Hauptbahnhof, Berlin's station, the Tiergarten (M)°, Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the head of government, the Grosser Stern column, until we reach Schloss Charlottenburg (M)°° (6 euros per person, students free). Besides a beautiful park°°, the castle is definitely worth seeing (even though it resembles a smaller version of the various Schoenbrunn or Versailles) and can be visited in a couple of hours too. Today it's very hot, so we take a nice stroll through the park before deciding to go and eat. Today we're going for Chinese, recommended by the Routard guide as the best in all of Berlin (we confirm), Good Friend (H) on Kantstrasse 30, (33 euros for 3)°. Enough with streets and museums, this afternoon it's shopping's turn and so off we go towards the Ku'damm (Kuerfuerstendamm)°, the shopping street.

Then we pass Potsdamerplatz (M)° again following the red line of the former Wall and head to Friederickstrasse°, where there are two ultra-modern shopping centres, Lafayette (H) and Quartier 206 (H)°. Before ending the day, we still haven't seen the beautiful glass dome of the Reichstag (W)°°, seat of government, from which you get a splendid view of Berlin (free entrance). When we get back to the camper we note that today we covered 24 km. It's the last night in this beautiful, modern city; we only have a few days left before returning home, we thank our

Prague and finally Attersee in Austria

PRAGUE / PRAHA

WEDNESDAY We leave Berlin heading for Prague (H). At the border buy the Czech Vignette, 9 euros (Czech koruna exchange rate 1 euro = 25.77 koruna). The 380 km journey is calm, but the trauma comes when trying to reach the Caravan Park at Cisarska Louka, where we'd decided to stay (1262 koruna = 57 euros x 2 nights). Better if you have a GPS; we drove around like crazy. We finally reach the campsite; be careful not to confuse the campsites, you need to go to the last one, which is convenient because it's served by a ferry that takes you into the centre at a cost of 150 koruna return. In practice it's located on an island in the Vltava (Moldau) river, dominated opposite by Vysehrad (W); the facilities and waste disposal leave a lot to be desired, but even in this high season it was possible to find a spot without booking, so we make do.

We immediately take a little stroll without bikes (there are no cycle paths), to get a feel for the situation, and we immediately notice that Prague is very crowded. (We're warned to watch out for pickpockets). From our island we follow the Vltava river to Jiraskuv Most, practically at the foot of the Dancing House (Tancici Dum)(W)°, where we notice the curious architecture, and on foot we head towards the centre. A little earlier we pass under the portico on Smetanovo nabrezi°, where they sell souvenirs which we find are better priced than elsewhere; you'll find the typical hoodies with "Praga" written on them, which seem to be an indispensable item (350 koruna - 14 euros). To make the most of our visit to the city, we decide to head straight for the Jewish Quarter (W)°° with its many synagogues, and then visit the Jewish Cemetery (W)°.

So we leave Charles Bridge (Karluv Most)(W)°° on our right and the Karlova on our left and continue along the Krizovnicka to reach our destination. After the visits, taking the Pariska we arrive in the Old Town (Stare Mesto)(W)°° and stop in front of the fantastic Astronomical Clock (W)°°, which sets its figures in relief moving as the hour strikes, near the Old Town Square (W)°°, one of the most beautiful squares in the world, in fact it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Until evening we weave in and out of the various picturesque streets until we reach Charles Bridge (Karluv Most)(W)°°. We return to the campsite by metro, getting off at Smichovske nadrazi.

THURSDAY

We set off early to visit the Castle (Hrad)(W)(H)°°. So we take the ferry that takes us to the metro and for 18 koruna we arrive at the foot of the castle. Note that the guides recommend arriving by metro at Malostranska and then taking the staircase that leads up to the main entrance of the castle. We, feeling a bit lazy today, took the metro to Hradkanska station, then a short, straight and simple stretch of road leads to the rear of the castle. Entrance to the castle costs 250 koruna each for the package that includes a visit to St. Vitus Cathedral (W)°, the Powder Tower, the Royal Palace°, the Golden Lane° and there's an option: if you take the audio guide (250 koruna each) you don't queue to visit the cathedral; if you don't have the audio guide you join the kilometre-long queue… your choice.

Once our tour is finished we stop at the Schwarzenberg Palace° with its fine reliefs, and go down into Nerudova, admiring the city view. We stroll through Mala Strana (Lesser Town)(W)°° and come across the Church of St. Nicholas (W)°. We get lost and venture into the various little alleys, coming across and tasting beer in one of the various characteristic establishments. Then we decide to look for a place to eat. We recommend a nice little spot also marked in the Lonely Planet. It's a cellar where you find the fixed-price, inexpensive menu of the day, typical cuisine. BarBar (Vsehrdova 17)° 529 koruna for three people, drinks included. We continue our tour, passing Charles Bridge (Karluv Most)(W)°° again, and go to Prague's oldest brewery, U Fleku (H)(W)°, then, as usual a bit merry, we retrace the places we've already seen to (savour) enjoy them all over again at leisure.

FRIDAY

We're at the home stretch, so reluctantly we leave Prague heading for Italy, but not before stopping at a supermarket to stock up on Urquell Pilsner (W) and Gambrinus beer, which here is obviously very good value. On the way back, passing through Ceske Budejovice, we stop for a quiet picnic by the little lake of Štilec Kamenný Újezd.

ATTERSEE

The return journey is always longer than the outward one, so near Salzburg, after 360 km, we decide to stop at Lake Attersee° at Unterach (H), a pretty lake suitable for swimming, surrounded by mountains. It seems to be the swimming destination for all Salzburgers, so it's VERY crowded; we recommend, without stopping at every campsite to ask if there's space, going straight to the Insel campsite (H)°, 24 euros per night. It's nice, quiet, with a lawn and a jetty on the lake. Don't miss a nice swim; the water isn't that cold and the view is worth it.

SATURDAY

After a visit to the town and another refreshing swim (it's very hot), at 11.00 we leave the campsite and set off again. To avoid the motorway that takes us to Munich, we take the main road to join the motorway a bit further down near Kufstein. The road is scenic and very evocative. But it's also lunchtime! If you're on this road you ABSOLUTELY must stop to eat at the Gasthaus Blankenwirt° near Lofer; venison stew and deer fillet, never tasted anything so good… brush up on your German because the owner only speaks that (but gestures work too), spent 30 euros for 3.

And finally we're home, but we'll have to start thinking about the next trip right away. Happy travels!

N.B.: the motorways in Germany, Denmark and the Czech Republic are free!

If you'd like tips, impressions and various things, or if you'd like to leave us a comment, don't hesitate to contact us at our email address: alpatom@libero.it

We recommend the guides that provided us with the information on places to visit: City Book Monaco and Bavaria, City Book Berlin, City Book Denmark, City Book Prague, Lonely Planet Berlin, Routard Germany.