Watamu, Tsavo East, Mambrui, Kilifi, Malindi, Masai Mara, Lake Nakuru, Lamu Island
When
16 Feb 2007 – 26 Feb 2007 11 days · trip of 2007
Who
CINZIA PIETROPOLI · @LA CINZIA · CARATE BRIANZA
How
Travel diary
The story · 1 days
Jambo, my 4-year-old boy asked me today, mum, our duke really does look like the cheetah I saw in Africa, doesn't he??? can you play me the song that goes Alleluja? maybe we overdid it, but going back to Kenya 3 times within six months (August-November-February 2007) changed our lives. Our parents, now elderly, worry the whole time whenever we set off and take Andrea with us, but when we come back and hear Andrea telling them how in Africa he once again found his playmates, all the races and swims, the tricks and games on the beach... they change their minds.
Because Andrea is now a child with a very open mind and mentality, a true independent traveller!
Our return (for the third time) to Watamu was decided 2 days before departure, neither I nor my husband knew whether we could leave the office. On Valentine's Day we looked at flights online and, finding a good combination with Livingstone for €796.00 from 16 to 26 February in high season, we took advantage of it.
After 7.40 hours of flying we landed in Mombasa at 6 in the morning, where we immediately noticed that the humidity was much higher than in November. Chaos to pay the €40 entry visa, luggage arrived on time and no problems with customs, even though the man before us already had 5 euros ready in his hand to give to the inspector even though the latter hadn't asked for anything yet!.....We were a bit perplexed, because in the end it's us who introduced this custom....and now we won't be able to shake it off!
But Hakuna matata, the important thing was to get out and hug our THOMAS MBOYA. the architect of our Africa sickness, a very simple 30-year-old man who lives in Watamu and who, three times now, has managed to bring us back to his land, to his home and to his family.
He was waiting for us wearing, so we'd recognise him, one of the T-shirts we had sent him for Christmas. As soon as he realised we had arrived Thomas began to cry with happiness, he hugged us for so long that the taxi driver came to call us, so are we going???? the usual wicked two and a half hours of bumpy road awaited us to reach Watamu.
the journey was very reflective, Paolo was talking with Thomas, Andrea was sleeping, I was living my dream, and unlike other times, when the need was to see as many places as possible, to do as many excursions as possible, this time it felt like being back home, calm and carefree among my people, I needed nothing else, only to observe in silence. as we crossed the villages I recognised the houses, the places, the little shop where they sold sim cards before reaching Watamu, the Saturday market, and I felt better and better.
I began to watch the women who early in the morning all had something on their heads to carry, wrapped in their bright pareo and sometimes with the smallest children tied in a sort of back pouch. once we reached Gede and Timboni, my Africa sickness began to ease and to be repaid by the sight of the places we know and love.
The Sinzia and the song by the Nameless, and in Swahili it means daydreaming..and that is what is happening to me, on my return from Watamu and its people.
Andrea has 3 little brothers in Watamu, adopted from afar, Sienna Anton, Bella, (5-7-9 years old) who are Thomas's orphaned grandchildren, his sister died a year ago (at only 32), leaving her three children and making him promise he would take care of them without putting them in an orphanage.
Right away in August, when we had the luck to meet this very simple and honest young man, we understood that we could trust him blindly, and from the start we considered him part of our family, helping him to put his three grandchildren through school, since as he always tells us, it will be hard for him to have a family of his own, because if he were to marry a local girl he'd be forced to have children he couldn't support...already having the 3 grandchildren....
Thomas took us everywhere around Kenya, always using local transport, matatu, tuc tuc, coach. to Malindi, on the other hand, we wanted to go by matatu, very colourful especially on Sundays, when whole families dressed up get on to go to mass...,and as usual once there we toured it by tuc tuc. by jeep, instead, we went to visit Che Chale beach, suitable only for kitesurfers.
In November he took us to Lamu by coach, Diani and Tiwi beach and always a visit to the orphanage.. In August we did the Masai Mara and Lake Nakuru, 5 days tented camp and lodge, and Andrea was the youngest European child on safari!.
All of this organised from Italy with Thomas by e-mail Thomasmby@yahoo.co.uk - cell nr. 00254-735 334 392
When we go to the orphanage in Timboni (3 times in 6 months) to visit these children, Andrea is the first to run up and speak in Italian asking at the top of his voice who wants to play football?????
None of them speak Italian but they understand at once and as if by magic a roll of papier-mâché that looks like a ball appears and they start running in the garden, where Andrea acts as little leader shouting I won, I won! Teaching our child that he can't always win, that he's playing on a team and that you have to pass the ball, is difficult, he's only 4.. but when we try to make him understand that he is lucky and must be happy while other children, his friends, have no mum and dad, then he reflects and becomes a perfect player
first stop straight to Thomas's house. where his mother Anna. was waiting for us in disbelief, since she had only heard of our return the day before and couldn't believe it...she hugged Andrea to her chest as if he were her son and cried with happiness, two minutes later we were all crying, me, the village children, and Thomas too. it was very touching and I will remember it forever.
Day 117 Feb 2007
Sitting with them on their "sort of" veranda, where to make it more welcoming they had hung colorful pareos as a sign of welcome, and telling them about our African sickness and our life in Italy so different from the rhythms marked by Pole Pole was beautiful... as always.
We still didn't know where we would be staying, we trust Thomas blindly. He has carte blanche on everything and never gets it wrong, and indeed this time he booked us a nice cottage with a terrace overlooking the sea, where we could see the phenomenon of the low tides of Watamu beach!!! what a spectacle... all for 20 euros a room including breakfast.
Andrea and Paolo spent most of the vacation resting and playing together with the children of Watamu and Thomas's 3 grandchildren, when they weren't at school, and I took the opportunity to immerse myself in the work of Thomas and Bernard to see how it worked, since I had recommended them to so many Italian tourists and fortunately they were on site right during our stay!
Once again being in contact with them, understanding their daily survival problems, how to solve problems without clashing with anyone and manage to support a family, was truly interesting even if sometimes a bit sad.
It was nice to meet Paola and Paolo from Bologna, met on the forums and encountered on Watamu beach, and Giorgio with his wonderful family, caught up with at Blue Lagoon, and to leave with them for the 2-day safari to Tsavo was even more interesting.
Thomas and Bernard were up to everything, serious and reliable they accompanied us on a wonderful 2-day Tsavo East safari where we saw everything except the leopard... we stayed at the VoiWildlife safari lodge in a beautiful tented camp where in the evening the buffalo came to drink at the little pond... and to think that in August at the Masai Mara we traveled so far to go see them... there they were within reach!
I observed in silence to memorize well what I was experiencing, I took many photos, but the most beautiful ones I printed in my mind and they are helping me live here in a less stressful way.
I deliberately did the blue safari again, to see if in February the Marine park presented itself differently than in August, and indeed the water was clearer and the fish seemed more colorful.
For the first time I saw how the beach boys' boarding works on the beach, where one even catapulted into the water with a safari catalog in hand to show two tourists who were swimming!!!
Fortunately we never had any problems since with Thomas accompanying us a sort of code of honor applies whereby none of them approaches you to ask for or sell you something, so we were able to get around peacefully without being too bothered.
Our stay was marred by a lapse of mine, right after the safari, I left my digital camera on the table at the restaurant and as happens everywhere I never found it again.
Thomas mobilized the whole restaurant, tried to figure out who the last two customers after us were, the next day he knocked on door after door in Watamu, found the girl who was accompanying the European the waiters pointed to as the last person possible to have seen my camera, and with kind words tried to convince her and make her see reason. But alas, my camera was really cute and very sellable, so it never turned up, even though one afternoon we all found ourselves at the local tourist police station of Watamu, where I must say the policemen did a great deal to help me, including a search of the girl's house that Thomas and I blocked because we preferred to reason with her.
Whoever commits such a crime is marked for life, and in Kenya they are very strict about these things.
Even though this 24-year-old girl might have had my camera, I preferred to ask her to at least bring back the memory card with the photos I needed, appealing to her good faith and the lesson she would give her 6-year-old daughter.
In the end, she and I became friends, the police, incredulous, disapproved of me, since all the evidence was against her, even Thomas, convinced, spoke to her as an African to an African and asked her kindly to give it back.
I no longer have the camera or the photos, but I met another reality, Bea, her friends, how they live, where they live, why they live like that... She will surely remember me since I was calm and spoke to her like an older sister, she promised me she will do everything to help me find it and I want to believe her...
The fact of finding myself without a camera made me memorize even more everything I was experiencing and seeing, and now I'm truly sick with it.
The Saturday before leaving we arranged to meet Alessandra and her family, met on the forums, along with Maurizio and his wife whom I greet warmly, Loreta and her friends — all fantastic people met only by e-mail — we met in Watamu and it was nice to greet them. Our return home was calm, every time I looked at the clock and said: now they're all doing the safari together with Thomas and Bernard, now they'll already be at lunch at Tsavo, and so on... every day.
Is there a medicine to cure it?
I really think not!
This time saying goodbye to Sienna, Anton, Bella, Thomas and his family wasn't hard, since we are all aware of having become more African and more united than before.
African sickness is a sweet suffering, it's a SINZIA that will accompany you for life, the only remedy:
GO BACK AS SOON AS YOU CAN!
Asante sana Thomas for making us fall in love with your land.
Cinzia, Paolo and little Andrea, do-it-yourself traveler!
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