Among pharaohs and donkeys

This was our first trip organised with a tour operator (Teorema Tour). Generally we love travelling independently, it's more fun for us, but Egypt isn't a very simple destination and besides, the period wasn't one of the best because of the war.

Departure from Bologna and arrival in Cairo in 4 hours. I saw the pyramids for the first time from the plane window; they thrilled me enormously, imagine seeing them up close. We arrived at the airport, our guide was waiting for us, we were about 60 people, and they split us into 2 groups, 2 different coaches that took us to our respective hotels. Our hotel was a stone's throw from the pyramids and I saw them again from the bus, they were enormous. The hotel was splendid, I wasn't expecting such luxury; they offered us a drink and I didn't drink it, they'd advised me not to drink unbottled water, only bottled, and not to eat raw vegetables and unpeeled fruit, because of diarrhoea, which I got anyway, but let's set that aside (even though the stomach cramps had me doubled over, and for 6 days I ate bread and rice).

The guide who accompanied us throughout the trip was a 26-year-old Egyptian lad named Ashraf, very very good. In the morning he took us to see Saqqara, one of the first stepped pyramids built, and the temple of Mit Rahina; the heat was bearable and we were fine, then they took us to Memphis, where there was a small museum with an immense statue of Ramses II and a very beautiful small sphinx.

As every afternoon, we had lunch in different restaurants; it was a lean period for them, many tourists had cancelled their holidays out of fear, and we were gold for their pockets; in every corner there were sellers of all ages, so many children, but we were always escorted by 2 plainclothes policemen. And they kept their distance, except when we were left free to wander, then we were set upon, but even that had its charm.

In the afternoon Ashraf took us to see the pyramids; it was starting to get hot. Let me say that in the morning we got up at 6, which is why it was fairly pleasant; the afternoon was a bit different, the 40 degrees were starting to be felt, but before such a spectacle everything faded away. The Great Pyramid, Cheops's, was open to tourists; I didn't go in, my boyfriend did, the corridor was low and narrow, the heat stifling, and inside an open, empty tomb. The guide had advised us to enter other tombs that were much more beautiful, but curiosity was strong. Then a visit to the other 2 pyramids, Khafre and Menkaure. Finally our friend the Sphinx, very beautiful, though perhaps you expect it to be bigger, but beautiful it is nonetheless.

End of the first day – not bad, right?... We always moved by coach and through the windows I was beginning to discover a fascinating Cairo. Thousands of donkeys (asses) were ridden by children or pulled carts; it's the main means of transport used. There are cars too, but they're cars that were used 30-40 years ago in Western countries. A lot of chaos on the roads; none of us could drive a car unless we learned to honk the horn well. There are no indicators or right-of-way: the fastest goes first and warns with a sequence of horn beeps; to turn, a different horn sound. If you don't have a horn, you walk – or rather, take a donkey.

Second day: visit to the citadel and mosques included; they're very beautiful, especially Muhammad Ali's. There was a lot of humidity that day, the first people were starting to feel unwell, because of the great heat and diarrhoea; I was still healthy. In the afternoon after lunch, a visit to the Egyptian Museum, mummies included, very evocative.

Let me preface that, again because of the war, there were a fifth of the tourists there should have been, so there were no queues of any kind anywhere; everything was perfect, the travel programme was followed to perfection, timetables included. My compliments to Teorema Tour (very cheap and well organised).

Back to the museum: very beautiful, there was no one there, so we calmly visited the tomb of Tutankhamun that had been discovered, and his sarcophagus with its mask. And I also learned that Tutankhamun was neither the richest nor the most powerful pharaoh, only the discovery of all his precious jewels made him famous. Other pharaohs were very much more powerful and well known than him, but because their funerary goods were never found (thieves and looters), they're never talked about.

A wander around the market... a disaster. People who absolutely wanted you to come into their shop to haggle; it was great fun, and you can do a lot of shopping at good prices.

In the evening, back at the hotel, early to bed; in the morning, up at 4, departure for Abu Simbel on a domestic flight. I start feeling unwell but I'm strong and don't give up; half the people occupied the toilets, all for the same reason, even on the plane it was a constant coming and going.

Arrival at Abu Simbel at 6.30. A marvellous spectacle; we're on the border with Sudan, it's quite hot but dry and you can breathe better. Lake Nasser envelops us – it's something unforgettable. We take the plane again, arrive at Aswan and board the ship that will carry us along the Nile in search of new places. First stop by ship: the temples of Philae, Kom Ombo and Esna, all very beautiful.

We reach Karnak; the temple is beautiful both by day and by night. A sound-and-light show, a tourist attraction, a bit long, especially with the tiredness starting to set in. Then the following day Luxor, also enormous and beautiful; there's a stretch of road where many little sphinxes watch you from either side, very evocative.

Finally, on the last day, the Valley of the Kings and Queens and the temple of Hatshepsut and of Medinet Habu; the day was blazing hot, everyone completely done in, well and truly done in, we couldn't stand up any longer; the Valley of the Queens was tragic, nobody could take any more, but we visited it and, as always, it was worth it.

So our holiday ended; it was thrilling but very tiring. You need the right spirit, because it's a hyper-active holiday: you sleep little (average wake-up at 5), the heat is there (average 40-45 degrees), the food can give you diarrhoea – I say can, because for example my boyfriend had nothing.

But I'll conclude by writing that in the end you're happy and full of enthusiasm... you've finally been to Egypt, a magic land full of scents, colours and people, that leaves something inside you; poverty is an everyday sight and can sadden you a great deal, so I advise bringing sweets and pens: a child's smile can stay in your heart forever. When people ask me what I'll remember most about Egypt, I answer everything, but its people I will never forget......