Cuzco travel diary

Cuzco

What was supposed to take us from Arequipa to Cuzco was meant to be a seven-hour journey, but it magically turned into twelve. We spent an entire day on a bus, following an absurd route that first took us to the city of Puno and only late in the evening to Cuzco. Fortunately, here too there was a kind gentleman waiting for us at the station, who from there led us directly to the hotel. A very nice hotel, by the way, carved out of an old mansion with very thick walls. This hotel had everything too, from towels to breakfast included, from cable TV to free internet connection and even a lovely stove to heat the place. Having arrived in the room quite late, we hurried out to find some open restaurant, but unfortunately we had to settle for a hot chocolate. Having gone to bed quite early, we woke up just as early to go and visit the city.

As usual we headed toward the city center, where we were welcomed by an immense main square, dominated by the majestic cathedral. They had told us that Cuzco was a truly fascinating city and we have to admit they were right. It is a town built on the ruins of an ancient Inca city; throughout the historic center the base of the buildings is still made up of those ruins. It really feels like taking a leap back in history, and on some streets in particular the impression is that of living in another era. Precisely for this reason we had decided to spend a little more time in this town compared to our previous destinations: time decidedly well spent! The first day, we allowed ourselves a taste of what the town could offer, wandering through the streets of the center and planning the remaining days of our stay in this ancient Inca residence.

Time positively flew by under our feet and in no time at all it was already time to return to the hotel. After a quick shower and dressing up properly to fight the ever-dropping temperatures, we went out in search of refreshment and found it in a small restaurant on the side of the main square that offered a very interesting tourist menu. A characteristic of pretty much all the restaurants in Cuzco is the presence of a warm wood-burning fireplace which, besides serving to heat the place, allows you to make an excellent pizza; we didn't waste any time and tried it right away! With full bellies we returned to our room and after a bit of good television we plunged into a deep sleep.

The following day, cheered by a rich breakfast cooked by ourselves, we headed back toward the city center, where we saw pass before our eyes a sort of old rubber-tired tram, perfectly restored and functioning, used as a vehicle for the city tour. We didn't need to be told twice and jumped inside it, since it seemed to us the best way to get an overall view of the city. Just like the tour we did in Lima, in this case too the tram wound its way among the narrow little streets that cut through the city, passing by the main square and pausing at the most significant buildings, until it climbed up one of the hills overlooking the city, where, right at the summit, is positioned the Cristo Blanco, an imposing statue very similar (though on a much smaller scale) to the Christ of Rio de Janeiro (which in a little while we're going to see in person!!!).

The tour lasted a little over an hour and brought us back in front of the cathedral, right where we had picked it up. It seemed made to order; having gotten off in front of the cathedral we decided it was the right moment to visit it. Arriving at the entrance we found ourselves in front of the ticket office. The alternatives before us were essentially two: either buy just the entrance ticket for the cathedral or a ticket that for a few extra "soles" would allow us to visit three different places. Obviously we chose the second option, which allowed us to enter, besides the cathedral, also the city museum and the picturesque little church of San Blas, located in the characteristic neighborhood of the same name. No sooner said than done, we were already inside the cathedral to begin our visit. To call it immense and majestic would surely be too little.

We could go out on a limb and say that it is the most beautiful and interesting church we have encountered so far on our journey... and in terms of comparisons we really have quite a few!!! It is perhaps pointless to go on at length with descriptions that would certainly not do it justice, also because ordinary tourists like us don't have sufficient knowledge to be able to provide them. One thing is certain... even for an absolute neophyte and someone inexperienced in art history, the sensation that enters you at the sight of such grandeur is inescapable: exhilarating! We came out and it was already evening, and with it the cold was arriving: it was time to return to our room to warm up a little and rest from the day's exertions, after the usual shower and the usual dinner in the usual restaurant: a certainty!

The following day we were to make full use of our ticket purchased the day before. So we headed first of all toward an area of the city that had particularly struck us during the city tour, pausing at the inevitable market to taste some local cheese. After that, with full bellies, we set course for the San Blas neighborhood. We headed straight for the church, obviously smaller than the immense cathedral, but no less interesting for that, and then went wandering among the tiny, colorful little alleys that characterize the neighborhood itself. Returning from San Blas we stopped at the museum for a brief visit. Perhaps the most interesting thing about the museum, more than its contents, is the structure of the building itself, erected on an ancient Inca palace, partially destroyed and renovated by the Spanish conquerors.

This day too had reached its conclusion and after the usual preparatory routine we headed to dinner, then trying to go to bed early because the next day a mini excursion was planned to Pisac, a small village about an hour from Cuzco, famous for its ruins but above all for its Sunday market.

No sooner said than done, early in the morning we headed toward a small station of minivans specialized in the Cuzco-Pisac route and, having taken the first one available, we began our excursion. Once we arrived at the place we immediately understood that Pisac fully deserves the fame it enjoys. It is a very lively market, crowded with women dressed in a thousand colors, all busy selling and exchanging products. We wandered for a long time among the countless stalls selling above all local handicrafts at truly interesting prices. We got so carried away by that little market that, without realizing it, it had already gotten too late to go and visit the ruins... never mind, it'll be for another time! Having caught another minivan we returned to Cuzco for a boiling hot shower and to pack our backpacks...

Exactly, pack our backpacks because the following day we would set off for the magical city: Machu Picchu!