Ecuador and Galapagos...no accident!

We're off...

08/08/03

Off we go! We arrive in Quito late, in the crowd at arrivals there's also Vero waiting for us, for us it's a surprise. A quick hello and then the van takes us to the hotel, at midnight finally in bed! In Italy it's already seven in the morning.

09/08/03

First day in Ecuador, we dedicate it to visiting Quito, a seemingly quiet city. Our hunt for Cotopaxi begins! In the evening we have dinner in a Cuban restaurant with Vero, her sister and Caetano, the terrible kid.

10/08/09

After much negotiating we start an intense day with a minivan and driver chauffeuring us around. First stop Cotopaxi National Park, and here it starts badly, it's foggy and you can't see a thing, we decide not to pay the $10 and give it up. We set off again for the Quilotoa lagoon. The road is terrible, we nearly reach 4,000 meters. The lagoon is fantastic but there's an incredible wind. Regrezamos and at 5 we're in Latacunga, with a bus we go to Ambato, where we spend the evening. Incredible, it's Sunday and the restaurants are almost all closed! We're stuck with a pizza in an Italian restaurant, I'm a bit embarrassed!!

11/08/03

Today is Monday and in Ambato there's the biggest market in Ecuador........but we're a bit disappointed, it's mainly food. We move up our departure for Banos with 2 taxis at $14 each. We're immediately very impressed, we wander around this spa town going from one agency to another to organize tomorrow's excursion. Sere and I are in a hurry, we want to soak in the hot springs: water at 40°C!! Fantastic. GB, Cla and Gius risk their lives on the four-wheeled motorbikes. Tom has also arrived at the motel, how easy it is to run into each other around the world!! Tonight dinner and a drink at the pub, Tom tells us a bit about his volcano climbs, and what the Galápagos cruise will be like, then a goodbye and a see-you-whenever!

12/08/03

It's 8 and still nobody has come to pick us up for the excursion, we call and finally he arrives. We see a few waterfalls, we take the Tarapita (cable car....) after which we go to eat in Puyo, at the edge of the jungle (lunch included for us costs $1.50, for three coffees and a beer we spend $2.50!!). The intense day continues, a visit to Fatima, we finally see a real tapir!! The capybaras and other animals, a canoe descent, an excursion into the jungle and, cherry on top, a swim under the waterfall, we have a blast, Gius chickens out and films us (unfortunately....). The return is thrilling, in the middle of the night the van breaks down, we flag down a bus and get back to Banos.

13/08/03

Today we dedicate the day to shopping, except for Gius who at dawn climbs up to see the Tungurahua volcano, so far he's the only one who's seen one!! By bus we reach Riobamba and then continue on to Guayaquil. It's late, it's 9, no shower and we immediately look for a restaurant to comer, tonight meat at the "Asado de toro." In the Parrilla mista there are some nastly bits we don't have the courage to taste.

14/08/03

It's the day of departure for the Galápagos, we're in line at check-in and we spot the 5 Germans, our future travel companions. We land at 11:30, after taking care of some formalities like paying $100 entry and disinfecting our shoes (???). Our guide gathers us and takes us to the catamaran, for me it's the first time on a boat, and I realize you have to sleep sardine-style for 8 days!!! Lunch on board and then we reach the first island, a small taste of what the Galápagos are like. Countless crabs, iguanas, pink flamingos, pelicans, boobies.....and gorgeous water, nothing to envy about the Caribbean. At night on the boat you enjoy a stunning starry sky.

15/08/03

I'm learning to live with seasickness, it alternates between very difficult moments....and completely normal life (or almost..) we've been traveling since last night until 4:30 and now after a good breakfast we visit the first island. It's incredible, you have to watch where you put your feet because you risk stepping on an iguana or a sea lion, the Galápagos are truly unique. Back on the boat I immediately go into crisis and disappear into my bunk. In the afternoon another island then after dinner we set off again and I'm forced to retire.

16/08/03

Every day we see different islands and so new "inhabitants" add up, today it's the turn of the albatrosses and the famous blue-footed boobies. It's a unique thing to walk among these animals without them showing the slightest fear of our presence. Relaxing afternoon on the beach playing with the sea lions, the sea is fantastic, we're only missing a bit of sun.

17/08/03 Sere writes: This day is easy to describe...to note down. As usual, since we've been on the cruise, wake-up around 6:40 (remember that some sleep and some....try to!!!). Breakfast around 7:10, with a blank stare, questioning expression about the day ahead (basically: will the sea be calm or not?). Departure by dinghy for Isla Isabela (I think): dark sand on the west, white on the east. Sea lions now keep us company at every landing. We've seen the pink flamingos (the color due to the food they feed on); bit by bit we've reached the second beach: traces of "deceased" jellyfish, turquoise water.....very white sand.- On the way back from the excursion Enrico had the courage to snorkel (freezing water) and even saw a shark!!! I (Serena), Claudia, G.B and Gius preferred to laze in the sun....no sun. 2 PM departure for Isla S.Cruz.

Finally calm sea, sun....everyone ready for the tan... but here comes the sail...unfurled. We give up...I'm going to sleep!!! 7 PM S.Cruz: finally we go ashore for 24 hours!!!wow!!! we drag ourselves to a pub, then to a restaurant (I won't say eat what....) back around 00:00....now I'm crashing.....Good Night!!!!

P.S. today 18/08/2003 at 8:10 PM I find myself with a crazy cold (what rotten luck) who says it'll be the swim from 16/08.....or my delicate health? I've decided: little gifts for everyone!!! Germs galore!!! Kisses Serena

I resume the day of 18/08 after having hired Serena to report from her station on the previous one, finally without sailing it was a good night and for the first time I was woken by the breakfast bell. We're no longer used to life on land, today will be like that. We finally see the giant tortoises...over the top!!! First we see them free in the vegetation and in the afternoon at the Darwin Station. Let's say that apart from the scientific work it disappoints us a bit, and it's the same impression as our German companions. Today we had lunch in a restaurant but we agree that the cooking of our cook on the boat is definitely better. Dinner at 6, earlier and earlier!! Then we should disembark.....but maybe we'll stay on the boat. Tonight at one the last big crossing (5/6 hours, let's hope we don't rock too much!!)

19/08/03 Galápagos

Wilo says that from here on our cruise will be easy!! Today's first landing is on a big red beach, beautiful. The special thing about this island (Santiago??) is that it lets us observe very closely the pelicans busy feeding their young. Ale, I go wild with a few photos, then the usual little walk, a short climb, the view from above never disappoints, the colors are stunning. A bit of time free, by now a phrase that's part of our cruise. We dedicate ourselves to tanning and snorkeling. We don't have towels and we sort of take turns on Cla and Gius's. On GB's it's impossible for two people to fit.... The usual excellent lunch and off to Sombrero Chino. Beach with very white sand and exceptional sea colors, quick visit on the black lava and then time free.

I do a bit of snorkeling, but there's a very strong current and I don't go far, some don't even get in the water.....just sun....and indeed there's a crazy wind blowing!!!

20/08/03

The usual breakfast at 7, a little dinghy ride to inspect some penguins but nothing, we land at S.Bartholomè, this island is full of craters, very strange. After 360 steps we reach the highest point at 165 m above sea level, a stunning view! The contrast of the sea's colors with the volcanic rock is unique, spectacular. Wilo promises us we'll see sharks.....what a load of crap he's telling us! Instead he was right, very close to the beach we see one, it must be a meter long!! And then also the penguins swimming, there are two of them, every so often they surface, we also take a swim in this stunning bay....calm water, turtles (which I didn't see, others did), iguanas making crossings, the penguins, well that's not bad!! Back on the Pulsar, mega lunch, quick cleanup, Gius and I destroy GB and Clau and the second island of the day, we see a mega flow of black lava.

The Galápagos aren't interesting only for the fauna but definitely also for the peculiarity of the landscapes. We return to the Pulsar and go around to see the penguins....Clau and Sere don't feel up to it.....they're cold and go straight to the shower (no physique!) once again Wilo keeps his word, we see 7 penguins in 3 different spots.....we even risk capsizing with the dinghy....phew what a close call!! Shower to make you shiver (it's the last one!!), dinner, cake, party, dancing because it's the last evening and then we set off again for the last long crossing, we dance like crazy, I postpone all pre-bed operations until we stop, I lie down and close my eyes, it's the only way to survive. At midnight we arrive, but the sea is rough, with difficulty I manage to undress and get into the sleeping bag, no trace of the other shipmates!!

21/08/03 Sere writes: We set off.....today our experience on the catamaran ends: eight truly beautiful days, despite the physical ailments that the rough sea caused. The wake-up was too early (5:45!), with a last visit to an island (Seimour). Right after breakfast....let's be honest, getting off the catamaran (our beloved Pulsar) with the suitcases; saying goodbye to Coco (Cochito), Leòn, Wilo and the other travel companions, we were sorry. Arrival at the airport....departure...goodbye Galápagos!!! A rushed day. Arriving in Guayaquil we immediately took a bus to Cuenca. The impression Guayaquil made on us wasn't good, in fact, it seems like crime is the master there. We arrive in Cuenca after an exhausting 6-hour journey: potholes, speed bumps and whatever else!!! We found the hotel right away and then....off to eat finally something that isn't rice, chicken or potatoes.

22/08/03 Cuenca

By common agreement we decide for once to set the desayuno (breakfast) appointment at a quarter past nine (after much negotiating...). We spot the colorful stalls and already know what we'll be doing tomorrow...shopping!!! Today we goof around in Cuenca....but then a bit of culture! We take the bus to Incapirca, it's not a direct one and we have to change at Tambos. It takes us forever, almost 3 hours, at 2 PM we allow ourselves a quick snack and then a super quick visit to the Inca ruins because at 3 the bus for Cuenca leaves. Compared to the Peruvian sites this is really just an appetizer of Inca culture. The usual bus slog, restyling and then restaurant with an attached pizzeria.....you have to please everyone!!

23/08/03 Cuenca Riobamba Sere writes: A day of moving around: in the morning we dedicated it to a walk in the center with purchases, and a visit to the cathedral (a bit dark inside). The weather started acting up with a bit of drizzle. We had lunch in the place from the first evening, we needed a sandwich, to stop to make up for the lack of substance (as GB says). After picking up our bags we found ourselves at the bus terminal: ready for 5 hours of bus, heading for Riobamba. Absolute discomfort, chronic tiredness (by now).Arriving in Riobamba on the second try we found the hotel. The..... doesn't look very nice. Dinner at the Mexican place....slow digestion. A little card game couldn't be missing. The day is over...let's start another one.

24/08/03

We have an appointment with a furgoneta, that's what they call pick-ups here, to go to the slopes of Chimborazo. It's 9 but they say he'll be late, it's a quarter to ten and no news of our man. After a phone negotiation, 60 $ no 55 $ no, nope he won't budge and so we give up too, the guy at the reception flags down a big taxi for us, we agree on 35 $, the rather elderly little man has to let them know at home that he won't be back for lunch, at 11 we finally set off, mmmmm uphill it can't make it! After about 5 km he tells us the radiator water is heating up and we go back to Riobamba to change cars, to take a newer one. Once in town he calls another taxi driver and entrusts us to him. Ale, off we go again, this time we manage to reach the 4,700 m above sea level of the Chimborazo parking lot, the weather is splendid and we enjoy the stunning view of the volcano.

A brief stop and we go back down, we find a checkpoint: they demand that we pay the $10 entry fee! Helped by the taxi driver who won't give in to their threats to call the police, we force our way through and leave. On the descent we also have the luck to see a vicuña. Just enough time to pick up our bags, for the umpteenth time we're at a bus terminal, this time heading for Quito.

25/08/03

Buses are now part of our DNA, at 9 we're back at the bus terminal ready to shop at the Otavalo market, famous for fabrics and sweaters. Two and a half hours by bus, an hour and a half of free time dedicated to purchases and then a disgusting lunch based on fritadas (meat?, potatoes, toasted corn and boiled!). We return to Quito, tonight we're invited to dinner by Vero. By taxi we go to the appointment in Cumbaià, a new neighborhood where Quito is expanding. We're early and we go into a sort of Burger place to drink a coke. Punctually at 8:30 Vero arrives to pick us up. At her house there's a guest, an Iranian friend, and Yvonne, the girl who helps Tom at the agency. For the occasion Vero uncorks a bottle of Chilean wine, a toast! We have dinner based on salad, rice and champignones, we look at the photos including the one with Tom in Banos.

At midnight and once again the appointment is for who knows when. It's the first time it's happened to me to run into people I've met around the world again, truly a nice experience.

26/08/03

Today is the last day in Ecuador, a soft day, with our by-now friend the taxi driver we go to the famous Mitad del Mundo, all smoke and no fire, around the attraction of the line they've built a little town for tourists, shops, restaurants, etc etc. We opt for a luxury lunch!! We have trouble finding the San Thelmo...but we're immediately struck, there are only businessmen, we're a bit out of place. We ask the waiter for the best dish, we don't want to waste this chance!! We eat an Argentine steak accompanied by Chilean wine (thank goodness Sere and Cla keep me company!!). To walk it off we go back on foot (2 hours!!). Tonight a little pizza at the hotel and then straight to bed!!

Our trip to Ecuador is over, we were lucky, we'd known each other for very little (some had only met for a few hours!!) but everything worked out great, for me it's among the best trips I've ever taken. Ecuador enchanted me with its nature, with its colors in their maximum expression in the Galápagos, and with its people, sometimes not returning to a country amounts to a big sacrifice, it's worth thinking about.