Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro

Here I am, almost three months after the start of this trip that keeps me extremely busy musically, alas making me sacrifice the more touristy side of the journey. After all, the project was built to follow the paths of music, which sometimes don't coincide with those of the tourist and of beautiful landscapes.

In Rio de Janeiro, however, I had the chance to divert a little from the musical direction to follow the more touristy, holiday one. The cariocas didn't prove so interested in the project and so I took the opportunity to devote myself to other things and relax a bit. Needless to say, Rio is a fantastic city. I will therefore tell of some spots in this wonderful city that perhaps not everyone knows and that deserve a mention. During my stay in Rio I first lived in the bairro of Gavea, in the house of friends of Curiciba. Gavea is a commercial district suited to those who live in Rio, but certainly not to those who want to spend a few days there. Everything is very expensive, an hour on the internet costs 10 reais. A rip-off around these parts.

The positive note of this bairro is that it's very close to Ipanema beach, which, in case someone doesn't already know it, I inform you not to expect who knows what. Ipanema is physically a beach like many others, it has nothing special, except the history, the fame, the legend that its name carries. Jobim and Moraes made it famous with the fantastic song we all know, "The Girl from Ipanema", and the cariocas (the inhabitants of Rio) care about keeping high the name and fame that this stretch of sand carries as a symbol of transgression, fun and wealth. Beautiful girls, sculpted bodies, music and a festive air all year round. They say Ipanema is the beach of seduction, where chatting someone up is an art. To lovers of local nightlife and good music (but also bad music), I recommend the bairro of Lapa, close to the beautiful Santa Teresa.

At night it fills with revellers who flood the streets drinking cachaça, beer and whatever else. The many venues offer a range of strictly live music of all genres. What struck me most are the venues that by day work as depots or resellers of various objects, and in the evening become bars with musicians playing on top of the merchandise. Incredible. If instead you want to listen to some really good samba I recommend the venue Semente. Just ask and everyone knows it. It is the most traditional bar in Lapa, where the best-known artists of Rio de Janeiro perform. It has a long history behind it. It was closed for some time, but now some truly sharp young people are trying to keep it going by offering good music.

Another district worthy of note, where I personally left my heart, is Santa Teresa, set on a promontory that rises in the centre of the city and dominates it. I lived here for the second part of my stay in Rio. Once inhabited by the rich, who then left the beautiful villas and palazzi free because of the pressure of the increasingly menacingly close favelas. Today it is the home of artists in a surreal atmosphere that has nothing to do with the chaotic Rio below. A walk in the evening light among the porphyry alleys is a beautiful experience. A friendly little train that comes whenever it pleases and that you have to catch on the fly helps make this charming bairro even more fairy-tale-like.