Porto de Galinhas is a delightful seaside resort in the state of Pernambuco frequented mainly by Brazilian tourists. Low prices, tropical beaches, blue and clear sea, endless summer, festive atmosphere and folklore all year round... The reason for the advice not to go there? Simple, because the place is fantastic as it is, with international tourism practically nonexistent or almost. Think about what would happen if it were invaded by the usual mass tourism...prices in line with European standards and the euro, a little world where the rhythms are no longer Brazilian, authenticity that disappears. Mine is certainly a rather selfish argument, but I think it can be shared by all those who have stopped in this place.
You certainly don't get here with organized tourism: fortunately until now tourists limit themselves to frequenting the luxurious resorts advertised in the tour operators' catalogs located in the surrounding area. And so for the whole week the place remains the "property" of a few lucky ones, who can fully appreciate the splendid beach and all the services that Porto offers. A place that instead fills up nicely during the weekends when from nearby Recife (60 km) come wealthy families who own second homes or people eager to spend two festive days after the work week.
The most singular characteristic is the sudden change in sea conditions, thanks to the tides. At low tide, the water becomes very calm and transparent (a rarity for the Brazilian sea), the beach becomes very wide and offshore the famous natural pools emerge, reachable with the typical jangada, wooden boats that allow navigation in a few cm of water (a tour of the pools costs about 8 reais, €3). So it's possible to walk on the rocky reef and dive into these incredibly transparent pools full of colorful fish. A truly singular experience. On the other hand, at high tide the reef is completely submerged until it can't be seen, the beach retreats (near the town center it almost disappears), and waves appear at the shore (during 24 hours there are two low tides and two high tides). In both conditions, the water is very warm and averages around 30 degrees.
On the beach you find the characteristic "Baraca", similar to our beach clubs but much more characteristic and simple. The most appreciable thing is that the owners don't charge for renting deck chairs and umbrellas, but only ask that the customer consume during the day "bebida e petiscos" (drinks and snacks). An example: 4 deck chairs, one umbrella, 4 drinks, 2 caipirinhas, 1 beer, 1 portion of fried fish and fries......25 reais a day!!!! (€10 for four....!) Avoid the area in front of the town center, which is rather crowded, and look for accommodation at the two ends of the beach....the sea is better, the area is surrounded by palm trees and probably during the week you'll be the only guests of the Baraca. During the day there's a continuous coming and going of vendors, never pushy, of anything imaginable from a gastronomic point of view: and here comes the "queijo" seller.
He stops his cart, pulls out a piece of cheese like a skewer, uncovers the charcoal and starts grilling....delicious! (big piece of cheese 1 real - €0.40). A few minutes and it's the fisherman's turn who passes by with a bucket of very fresh oysters: little knife to open the shell, a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of salt...(6 oysters 5 reais - €2), and also prawns, lobsters, cocktails, ice creams, coconut. Without ever bothering anyone.
Behind the beach stretches the small town, very touristy and characteristic, with a long pedestrian avenue full of craft shops, venues and restaurants on the sea. Restaurants....another feather in the cap of Porto de Galinhas. An endless choice, splendidly positioned with terraces on the sea, excellent service. Eating appetizers, seafood pasta, prawns, grilled fish and meat, never spent more than 130 reais for five (€50). Near Porto there are some magnificent deserted beaches worth reaching. The most characteristic means of getting around is the buggy, which also allows you to travel on sandy roads. In town there are many buggy owners with whom to negotiate the price: half a day's rental about 60 reais (€25). The first beach you reach is Maracaipe, the classic postcard of the tropics. Deserted beach, very tall curved palm trees and untouched sea.
Next stop Praia do Cupe, where some resorts are starting to be built, but it's so endless that 90% of it remains deserted. Finally Muro Alto, very characteristic because it's entirely protected by cliffs that at low tide create an immense pool, almost two kilometers long.
Finding accommodation is never a problem. In Porto there are countless well-kept Pousadas for every budget. Keep in mind that the high season is late December, January and February (comparable to our July and August), a period when rates almost double, while still remaining reasonable. Personally I had a wonderful stay at the Pousada do Frade, both for the splendid location, on the edge of the center and a few meters from the best stretch of beach, but also for the quality of the service and the rooms. Set in a beautiful garden with a small pool, it offers two types of rooms. Double rooms, fairly small but well-kept, or family accommodation for four people, with bedroom, living room, American-style kitchen and outdoor patio by the pool. Prices: double room, high season 120 reais - €48, low season 80 reais - €30. Family room high season 200 reais - €80, low season 120 reais €48.
Breakfast included with cold buffet and a live kitchen that prepares gigantic omelettes and frittatas to order. In the evening you can dine on the veranda or by the pool. Over half a kilo of grilled Brazilian beef fillet accompanied by rice, various vegetables and beer for the price of 25 reais (€10).
To finish, I renew my advice: don't go to Porto de Galinhas!
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