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ARGENTINA · South America

Iguazu Falls: Nature in All Its Majesty

MAmacgreg ·22 photographs ·25 Jan 2006 – 27 Jan 2006 ·3 days
Where
· Tra Argentina e Brasile
When
25 Jan 2006 – 27 Jan 2006
3 days · trip of 2006
Who
ALBERTO GREGORI · @macgreg · CASTIGLIONE D'ADDA
How
Travel diary
The story · 2 days
Day 125 Jan 2006

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I don't mince words. For those like me who, in their travels, are constantly searching for places where nature exalts itself, arriving at Iguazu gives you the feeling of having reached the end of the line. Impossible to imagine a more imposing, intact, wild nature. The sensations while admiring this wonder are indescribable, no word can pay it proper homage, no photo either. There is no term to describe the roaring thunder of the water, or the gentle sounds of the untouched rainforest, the emotion of walking in an environment that is still pristine. To understand, you need to walk the 10 km of trails that Brazil and Argentina share, offering breathtaking and ever-changing views. Or get soaked at the Garganta del Diablo, the most powerful point of the falls, suspended on the edge where the water reaches its maximum force before plunging into an 80-meter abyss.

And also stroll calmly in the heart of the forest, among toucans and coatis, little animals similar to beavers that have become the mascot of the park.

Here Mother Nature has given everything: constant rain to make the environment lush green, a clear sky that enhances the colors as in a painting, an ever-overflowing watercourse that pours all its strength into 80-meter drops, a forest that represents one of the most delicate balances on the planet, a heritage of about 80 species of mammals, 2,000 species of plants, 450 specimens of birds, reptiles and butterflies.

What decrees Iguazu's supremacy over the other waterfalls in the world are the numbers: the Iguazu River flows into the Paraná River forming 275 waterfalls that stretch for 4 km, pouring 1,500 cubic meters of water per second, set within a national park of over 200,000 hectares. To put it briefly, Niagara pales in comparison. And as if that weren't enough, framing the place is one of the most enchanting landscapes imaginable: even arriving by plane you understand the virginity of the place: for half an hour you fly over nothing but forests and rushing watercourses.

For once even man has done his part, respecting this heritage. A national park has been created to safeguard the environment; the nearest city, in fact, Foz do Iguaçu (anonymous), stands at a proper distance (over 20 km). Cars and tourist buses must stop at the edges of the park, little trains and shuttles allow you to reach the falls, the walkways and trails are harmoniously inserted into the landscape without causing disturbance. The resorts, built outside the park, blend perfectly into the environment. The only resort inside the Brazilian park, the inaccessible Tropical due to its costs, is a masterpiece of colonial-style architecture.

Walking the trails is relaxing and exciting at the same time, a continuous succession of breathtaking views from every imaginable perspective: first from afar, then from a few meters away, from above to dominate one of the most majestic landscapes, or from below to get completely soaked in the spray and better appreciate the exhilarating power of the water.

A visit to Iguazu allows you to understand how fantastic nature is, and how much we must all commit, both at the government level and personally, to preserving it.

Given the vastness of the place, a complete visit requires two days, one for the Brazilian side and one for the Argentine side.

BRAZILIAN SIDE From the park entrance (20 reais - €7.50), a double-decker open shuttle bus covers the 11 km of forest to reach the first part of the falls. Getting off at the Cataratas stop, you tackle a kilometer and a half of trail, almost entirely downhill, that crosses the forest right in front of the outer edge of the falls. At first the viewpoints offer an overall view of a good part of the falls; as you continue, you get closer and closer until you reach the most spectacular point of the Brazilian side, right at the foot of the Floriano fall, a true triumph of water. Putting on raincoats, you walk along a walkway that reaches the heart of the falls, where you find yourself immersed in the spray created by the power of the water.

From here you go back up by means of an elevator carved into the mountain, reaching a stunning panoramic platform that offers an unforgettable view from above of everything you saw before up close. You take the shuttle back to the entrance. Visiting the Brazilian side takes about 3 hours.

Argentina: lower circuit
Argentina: lower circuit
Day 226 Jan 2006

ARGENTINE SIDE This is definitely the most spectacular part of the falls, and also the largest. In fact, visiting the Argentine side requires almost a whole day. A car with driver for the whole day from Brazil costs about 100 reais (€38). Once you cross the border between Brazil and Argentina (meticulous checks), you enter the Argentine part of the park, a true triumph of nature. The road crosses a splendid stretch of forest, until you reach the entrance (about 10 USD). From here the green trail (600 m), a quiet path that allows you to appreciate the sounds of the forest and, with a bit of luck, get to know its inhabitants (iguanas, toucans, coatis), leads to the Cataratas station, where a little train departs that reaches the start of the trail to the Garganta del Diablo, the most spectacular point of the entire park.

The trail is actually a walkway (2,200 m round trip) built entirely over the water, which leads to the point where the water makes its greatest drop and the flow is the most imposing. At this point, where the river reaches its maximum power, you find yourself in the center of a semicircle from which eight impressive waterfalls plunge and the violence of the water forms a mist that creates a myriad of rainbows of incredible beauty.

Taking the little train again, you return to the starting point, where a short distance away two other circuits begin that go deep into the extremities of the falls. The upper circuit (1,300 m round trip) allows you to admire from above the whole set of falls, San Martín Island, and the immense gorge into which the Iguazu River plunges. The lower circuit (a circular route of 1,700 meters), on the other hand, allows you to reach the foot of some spectacular waterfalls, among which the Bossetti fall stands out above all. Via the lower trail you access the boats (included in the entrance fee) that allow you to reach San Martín Island, where another trail begins, the most strenuous one, which reaches a panoramic point positioned right in front of an impressive wall of water. Another possibility is to take one of the boats that go right under the waterfall (cost 15 USD.

In this case, don't bring photographic equipment...).

Among other waterfalls, another place not to be missed is the Parque das Aves (bird park, entrance 8 USD). It too is set in a splendid stretch of forest, and allows you to admire many of the bird species that populate the area, including beautiful specimens of parrots with incredible colors, until you find yourself just a few centimeters from another symbol of the park: the splendid toucan.

Climate: hot, very hot and humid during the summer (our winter), with temperatures always above 30-33 degrees, cooled only by weather fronts that bring abundant rain. In winter, pleasant climate during the day (18-22 degrees), but lows that can even reach 2-4 degrees in June and July. Rainfall is constant throughout the year, more frequent in summer, although sunny days are the majority.

For accommodation I recommend the Resort San Martin, excellent location a short distance from the airport (3 km), a few hundred meters from the entrance to the Brazilian side and from the Parque das Aves. Set in a suggestive environment that can be discovered with forest trails, discreet service, good restaurant (dinner about €12). Price for a double room with breakfast about 60 euros, children free, bookable with Interhabit. Iguazu can be reached by plane from São Paulo (2-hour flight) or from Rio (about 2h30).

Argentina, general view
Argentina, general view

The journey's photographs

22 photographs · click to open them full screen

▶ Slideshow
Brazilian side: Floriano fallsMan and child on wooden balcony in front of Iguazú FallsBoy leaning on green railing in front of Iguazu FallsIguazú Falls: walls of foaming water with a red tourist boat belowTourist in orange shirt in front of Iguazú Falls, near the railingMassive falls of brown water and white foam, gray sky, mist
Argentina: Garganta del DiabloA long-nosed coati walks across green grass and red soilArgentina: Garganta del DiabloArgentina: Garganta del DiabloArgentina: upper circuitArgentina: lower circuitArgentina: lower circuit, Salto BossettiCoatisBlue and yellow macaw perched on a dry branch eating a seedRed-breasted toucan with pale beak perched on a wooden railingOrange monarch butterfly resting on green leaves in the forestBoy sitting on a log with three giant tortoises in the enclosureToucanEndless rainforestFather in yellow shirt holding son with a macaw perched on his armArgentina, general view

2 reader comments

piazzamozart · 03/03/2006

Bello!! Complimenti...sempre gran bei viaggi!!! Iguazu mi manca.....alla fine ci si svacca a rio e finisce li....ma dopo aver visto le tue fotomi sa che l'anno prossimo attacco le cascate al soggiorno ad ipanema! Bella anche tutta la tua famigliola!! Ciao Max

Lallina82 · 19/10/2011

Ciao Alberto! sono spettacolari queste cascate!!!

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