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AUSTRALIA · Oceania

Australia... A Whole Other World!

ZAzambo ·83 photographs ·26 Jul 2006 – 23 Aug 2006 ·29 days
Where
Sydney, Alice Springs, Ayers Rock, Olgas Mountains, Kings Canyon, Darwin, Kakadu National Park
When
26 Jul 2006 – 23 Aug 2006
29 days · trip of 2006
Who
Claudio Zambelli · @zambo · Rubiera
How
Travel diary
The story · 1 days

Right this time I don't even know where to start, and I don't know where I'll end up with my account, and......even harder is describing what Australia left us, a place so far from us, so different, so majestic with its endless distances and unspoilt nature, so welcoming for all those immigrants who over the years have populated it, and so hostile, always with that nature that sometimes captivates you with its strong colours and other times abandons you to the aridity of the desert, the force of the sea and the advance of tropical storms; not to mention the animals.....kangaroos, koalas, wombats......how much gentleness in their gazes and movements.......and then snakes, crocodiles, jellyfish........which always remind you how much care you must take in the most different habitats.

3000 photos taken (digitally....) 3-4 hours of footage; rarely have I found myself in the position of wanting to stop every moment, remember it with a photo, take home a little piece of what I was observing. Truly, endless distances......I had the chance to use most of the local means of transport: domestic flights, campervans and rental cars, ship, train and coach.....thousands and thousands of kilometres travelled through cities, deserts, tropical forests and sandy coasts. From the sky the changes in the land were slow but inexorable....from cities and civilisation to the most arid, desolate desert; from the ground....the slow unfolding of daily life, the towns so far from one another, hours of driving without ever crossing anyone.......

Describing what I did in a month, wandering around Australia, is very difficult and would take pages and pages of writing; I will try briefly to summarise my itinerary and I hope, together with the photos I will publish, to convey an idea of how fantastic this latest adventure was for me. Having booked the intercontinental tickets in advance, and with a month available, it was necessary to plan at least part of the itinerary we wanted to tackle......a month's holiday is really a very long time for me but...for Australia it could really be far too little....maybe one should multiply this little month by three to be able to wander from north to south, from east to west....the deserts....the islands.....

well, with a month let's see what we can do!!! Let me say first that one of my greatest passions is indeed travelling but....my journey begins months and months before, reading the guides, the magazines, browsing the internet, I try in any way to shorten the time separating me from departure. And in doing so I tend to set dates, the places to visit, some transfers; Australia would allow you to do all this directly on site; the level of services is such that in every city or even the most remote spot, there is a wealth of information to organise the most classic and improbable activities. My wish was to see as much as possible in that month and for this reason I wanted to bring things forward a little by booking the domestic flights from Italy, as well as a few hostel rooms, so as not to waste time unnecessarily from leg to leg.

And here is the journey: Arrival in Sydney on 27/07/06, 3 days, in the height of the southern winter......an intense blue sky and 22/23 degrees during the day, 15 at night. Sydney......for me beautiful, perhaps the most beautiful city I have ever seen....it certainly can't offer the culture of Rome or Paris.....it can easily compete with the charm of Hong Kong but the quality of life, the organisation, the bay with the sailing boats, the beaches and the office workers on bicycles......Sydney is unique. From Sydney to the red centre; having landed at Alice Springs and taken possession of the mini campervan, we covered about 2000 km in 4 days to visit Ayers Rock, the Olgas and Kings Canyon. Just driving in the desert, amid that red earth and in total solitude, was for me a priceless experience; and then arriving at sunset at the roadhouses to spend the night.

Whoever hasn't been to see Ayers Rock...and I met many while travelling around Australia, justifies themselves by saying that... "it's just a big rock, it's not worth it".....but come on, is it or isn't it the symbol of Australia, there must be a reason right? But do you know what it means to find it in front of you after 1000 km of road and flat desert?? But do you know that by walking around its base, 9 km of walking in about 2 hours...., you have the chance to see it in every facet, and at sunset this dull red turns into something so intense it's striking!! And then the Kata Tjuta park also includes the Olgas.....where, in the famous Valley of the Winds, I felt transported to earthly paradise....to Eden; here too 7-8 km of trails made me think more than once....."but have I ever seen a place more beautiful than this.....???"; even today I'm here thinking about it and I can't quite beli

eve I saw what I saw. Then Kings Canyon.....a good initial hike to get your breath going and to find yourself in front of this great crack in the ground.....is that all?....of course not; the trail that goes around the canyon and brings you back to the starting point lets you see how time, erosion and water have changed and shaped the rocks; underground rivers and trees growing on the stone enrich a landscape that yet again leaves you breathless. Back to Alice Springs and then off, flying to Darwin.....from here 3 days devoted to exploring Kakadu National Park; it begins with crocodile spotting in the marshes dried up by the dry season....crocodiles on the riverbanks warm themselves in the sunlight, birds of every kind fly over the surrounding plains. It was only a taste of what we would see in the days to come.

Green expanses as far as the eye can see, Aboriginal paintings in the rocks and in the caves hidden by vegetation, the waterfalls....Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls, reached only thanks to the use of a four-wheel drive and several km of walking through the forest, and the night....spent in a sleeping bag, after setting up the tent under a garden of stars and having eaten around the fire together with our adventure companions. Back in Darwin, the Quantas flight was waiting for us at 4 in the morning bound for Cairns....certainly the time wasn't the best but it would allow us the same day to board our diving cruise. 4 days and three nights to go up the Great Barrier Reef northwards towards Code Hole and then return.

It was my first cruise.....and moreover it was a diving cruise so time for relaxation wasn't part of the programme.....within the waters protected by the reef the slow progress of our ship was calm but at night.....when we moved into open sea......it was Brazilian samba and Argentine tango.....what a terrifying experience!!! Anyway, from the point of view of the dives the verdict is a bit mixed; the memory of Malaysia, of Borneo and of the island of Sipadan in particular was still too vivid in me....nothing like that; water a bit cold and, above all, the Australian habit of sending divers of any level into the sea without any instructor along; at first this could create a bit of fear but...at the end of the day, this experience left me with much more awareness and confidence in approaching this activity.

The surroundings of groupers (really many), moray eels, turtles, small reef sharks, multicoloured fish and really many beautiful corals make me give a verdict

Day 111 Aug 2006

Cairns,Great Barrier Reef,Port Douglas,Cape Trib,Withsunday Is.,Airline Beach,Fraser Is.,Brisbane

Back in Cairns, rental car and then off, north and towards Cape Tribulation. Here the rainforest reaches the coast and dives into the sea….yes, the sea…..unfortunately to an idyllic coastal landscape, to the lush green of the forest, to the immense, isolated, solitary beaches, was not added a tropical sea worthy of its name; it must have been the season and the climate….it rained often and the sky was grey for long stretches….but the sea perfectly mirrored the colours of this sky; what remains though are the long walks, the silence and the feeling of total isolation. Then these mountains behind me and those palms making their way through the thick vegetation….only those colours that the sea sometimes knows how to give you were missing….it would have been perfect, but perhaps it would have been too beautiful.

Back in Cairns many beaches line the coast and some towns are very interesting, Port Douglas above all. It was time to spend a few days relaxing…..and then with all this coral reef we'll have to find some isolation on some desert island!!! The choice really isn't lacking; however we had a fixed idea in mind, to reach WhiteHeaven Beach, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, on the Whitsunday Islands. Having reached Hamilton Island by flight, we opted for the cheapest option the Whitsundays could offer, a dorm at the Hook Island resort.

A charming island and in a strategic position for whale spotting, it hosted us for two nights but…..one will be the one we'll remember forever…..in the company of a group of Irish people (drunk….) who until dawn "harassed…" us with their shouting and hellish noises…what torture!! So goodbye relaxation….escape to the coast where, after spending a night in Airlie Beach, cute but…veeeeery chaotic, we organised a day trip to Whitehaven Beach…… And here…..the sky opened up……!!! Already the approach to Whitehaven Island had been astonishing, making the first encounter with the whales (though seeing only their backs while in the evening….returning home….we saw them jumping in the distance as if they wanted to greet us…); the first stop was dedicated to the climb up to the lookout; guys, WHAT A MARVEL!!!! The view from above of this idyllic beach truly leaves you breathless; a multitude of shades

of blue, turquoise and white mixed to form a rainbow of colours…it almost didn't seem real and, I can guarantee, after having seen so many and so many beaches around the world, that here you reach the top!! Then back to the boat and disembarked on the beach, Whitehaven Beach, welcomed us with coral sand as fine as flour and water so turquoise you couldn't resist…it was time for a dip…..shame that the August sea was always a bit chilly…..but it didn't matter, I was in a true earthly paradise, I hope the photos can give an idea. My Australian trip was about to end but there were still a few days left and, even though time was pressing, I wanted to make the most of it, receiving truly great satisfaction in return.

On 19/08 I was on a train heading to Hervey Bay, a cute little place directly overlooking Fraser Island; having spent 14 hours on the train, the legendary Tilt Train (and here I open a parenthesis……trains in Australia are truly hyper-efficient, punctual, clean and safe but…..how slow they are!!!! From my window I saw cars and trucks speeding at double our speed….we must have crossed maybe another 2 trains along the way and made about 10 stops in 1000 km; taking 14 hours…..you do the maths!!!) and having arrived at our destination, there were 2 days left before leaving for Brisbane and then heading back home, so, what to do…?? Devote all the time to exploring Fraser Island or leave some space for Whale Watching too? Fortunately the choice fell on the second opportunity; certainly exploring Fraser Island with a 4x4 for at least a couple of days would have been very adventurous and fun, join

ing a group of 30 people was certainly less exciting but allowed us to have a general view of the island, its long beaches, its inner forest, its centuries-old and infinitely tall trees and its transparent and freezing lakes… What can I say then about the Whale Watching; when you leave in the morning from Harvey Bay harbour, for someone like me at their first whale-watching experience, you really don't know what to expect. There were few of us, 6 tourists, the captain and the…..sailor…..after 1.5 hours of nothing (and with general discouragement on board…) you start to glimpse something on the horizon; I was about to witness one of the most beautiful spectacles of my life as well as, perhaps, the most beautiful day of the entire holiday (if it hadn't been the last…..).

In short, from then on we spent two fantastic hours, screaming like madmen (whales are very curious and noise attracts them a lot); we saw them in various groups…..in the end I must have counted 20…maybe 30…. At first they started circling the boat, coming up only with their backs, then the fins emerged and disappeared into the depths….and again the snout…and the fins….they seemed to be playing with us but……..that wasn't all!!! Suddenly, about 50 m from the boat, they started leaping entirely out of the water showing themselves in all their splendour and majesty. The most difficult thing for me, caught as I was in a state of emotion/disbelief, among the waves and splashes, was to take decent photos that could remind me forever of such a spectacle. Luckily I managed to bring home something nice and I still stand open-mouthed before this spectacle of nature.

In the early afternoon the coach for Brisbane was waiting for us. 5 hours on the road to reach the capital of Queensland and just one day to look around, nothing special though…. It was now time to leave again, destination Bangkok where we would spend a few days before returning to Italy (but that's another story….). Almost a month spent on Australian soil, day after day an adventure and a new experience, leaving me little time to reflect on what I had just seen and to imagine everything I would have to explore. Thousands of km to reach some corners that still today remain remote; unspoiled nature, exotic animals, experiences and places I would never have imagined facing and seeing…..a trip that at times felt like a long documentary…..and me a National Geographic photographer……( how funny…..!!!).

It was a trip that left little room for relaxation and rest, but I certainly don't regret it, if I had had another month available…I would have run to the western side to throw myself into new adventures and discoveries, letting myself be abducted by these modern cities, by the relaxed life, by the infinite spaces, by the deep black of the night and by a certain sense of solitude……

To recount in detail what it was for me would be impossible, I remain of course available to anyone who would like practical advice or various addresses; I hope the photos represent at least in part what I wanted to express!!

Unforgettable
Unforgettable

The journey's photographs

83 photographs · click to open them full screen

▶ Slideshow
From the terraceRoyal Botanic GardensSydney BayOpera HouseHarbour BridgeSydney by NightSydney SkylineIn the KitchenMelly BeachSydney TowerSydney BayWhat distances.....Camper lifeNobody on the horizon....On the horizon...Ayers RockPaved road through red sand with Uluru rock in the backgroundEroded red rock wall of Uluru rising over dry shrubs and sandRed sandstone monolith of Uluru rising above scrubland under cloudy skyCampingThe colors of the sunsetOlgas MountainsRed domes of Kata Tjuta rise above desert scrub under a blue skyRed domes of Kata Tjuta rising above green shrubs and red stonesTourist leaning on a boulder among the red walls of Kings CanyonValley of WindHiker on sandy trail toward Kata Tjuta, red rock domes amid arid shrubsRed sandy trail through shrubs toward the domed rocks of Kata TjutaWhat a couple....Kings CanyonMan sitting on red sandstone rock at Kings Canyon among cliffs and green shrubsWatch out.....Kings Canyon, red rock walls with green vegetation on the valley floorRed sandstone rocks and spinifex bushes at Kings CanyonRed sandstone cliffs of Kings Canyon with green vegetation under bright sunlightBlue 'Please arrive alive' road sign shows picnic area 26 km aheadKakadu National ParkUbirr RockSunrise at KakaduTwin FallsJim Jim FallsWetland with waterbirds and grazing animals among grass and shallow watersTermite moundsWaterfall on rock cliff, green plunge pool surrounded by boulders and vegetationTall red earth termite mound among trees and dry grass under blue skyDiving : Great Barrier ReefTurtlePotato Code: Giant GrouperLittle sharkSchool of blue and yellow fish swimming over corals in turquoise waterSchool of yellow fish swimming in turquoise water over the coral reefAnemoneGiant blue clam among corals on sandy seabed, underwater lightBlack flatworm with orange edge on coral, near white sea squirtsWallaby carrying joey in pouch walking on dry ground with fallen leavesKoalaCape tribulationCape TribulationMan walks on sand carrying clothes, green branch above, ocean waves rollingHook IslandVaranoHook IslandAustralian Pheasant???Here we are in Paradise...Whitehaven Beach!!Landing strip....Fraser IslandHighway.....In the shipwreckSwim in the lakeFraser Island: Inland ForestHervey Bay: Whale WatchingBrisbaneUnforgettable

3 reader comments

piazzamozart · 11/10/2006

bello vero!! my best congratulation Mr Zambo!! Ciao Max

cri.dan · 30/08/2007

Complimenti per questo e per gli altri tuoi viaggi... Fai sempre delle foto molto belle e scegli itinerari molto interessanti... un po' ti invidio... :o) Ciao Cri

Tama · 08/09/2007

... Non ci sono parole, viaggio incantevole!!! L'Australia è meravilgiosa e ricca di paesaggi nuovi e splendidi. Anche io ci sono stata!!! Foto spettacolo!!!!

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