Parks of the American West 2008

Day 5 finds us busy reaching Lake Powell (Arizona); from the Bryce hotel we were advised against a more direct shortcut that they say is very difficult for 4x4s, therefore unsuitable for our sedan. So we slog through about 300 km of the usual beautiful and little-traveled roads, always respecting the posted limits, very well signposted.

Arriving, we enjoy a brief view of the dam created on the Colorado which in the 1950s allowed the birth of the town that until then had been absolute desert.

The hotel is in the center of town, it is available (fortunately) already by mid-morning and so we can settle in and immediately go to book the excursion to ANTELOPE CANYON which (having read accounts and advice from guidebooks) we intend to do right at the beginning of the afternoon. We decide to opt for a photographic tour (longer and more expensive than the traditional excursion) and I believe that those 32 $ per person are the best money spent in my life as a tourist!

We set off with a big 4x4 jeep driven by Marvin (a young Navajo who speaks a few words of Italian, good Spanish and we also understand each other with our modest English). After half an hour of driving we arrive at the entrance to the canyon in infernal heat; there are a great many groups and the canyon is fairly narrow but the agreements among the various guides allow everyone to see the most pleasant openings and allow us to take truly exceptional photos: the rocks seem by turns to be waves, animal heads, etc. etc. with infinite shades of color.

We spend more than 1 hour and a half traveling through the canyon in both directions and take a great many photos (BLESSED DIGITAL...!). On the way back Marvin shows us some photos taken at the Grand Canyon at dawn that are truly worthy of a photography exhibition!

Returning to the hotel we go back to complete our supplies at the big store and make a few souvenir purchases in this beautiful locality!

We then go to the Marina and book for the next day a full-day cruise on the lake to reach RAIMBOW BRIDGE; the evening ends (for the 1st time) at Mc' Donalds with chicken (not for me) and Big Mac.

The lake excursion starts early in the morning and at first it is not very hot so we position ourselves on the roof of the boat to enjoy views of the surrounding mountains, of the bays and coves where tourists rent house boats and thus pleasantly spend their vacations. To reach RAIMBOW BRIDGE (which is the largest natural arch in America and is sacred to the Navajo) one follows, from the landing stage where the boat leaves us, a trail of about half an hour with a slight uphill gradient.

Here too the colors are unimaginable but here there is much more beach tourism, even beautiful girls in very skimpy bikinis and flip-flops accompanied by blond big guys! Returning to the boat a pleasant snack awaits us accompanied by very cold drinks (in America they usually go heavy on ice to cope with the great heat!) and shortly after 1 pm the return begins, which has us traveling through very narrow canyons barely wider than the boat.

On arrival at the Marina we collect our car, well warmed by the scorching sun, and return to the hotel. After a very pleasant swim in the pool we get ready for dinner this time with a maxi ice cream and fruit purchased in the previous days.

On June 20 (day 7) we head toward Monument Valley; for the night we have no hotel reservation and we know that it is advisable to visit the valley in the late evening. We solve the first problem in Kayenta where we book a very good Hampton Inn. It is anyway late morning so we decide to make a detour toward Chelley Canyon which turns out to be very interesting. At the Visitor Center the extremely kind ranger advises us to take the south side and gives us a brochure in Italian (a very rare thing given that the USA snubs us: usually the brochures are in English, Spanish, German, French, Japanese, Chinese and sometimes Portuguese... but Italian is very rare!).

From this we learn that the place was the refuge of the Navajo when General Kit Carson hunted them and pushed them much farther south to exploit the immense mineral resources of their lands! Those who managed to escape this mass deportation took refuge precisely here, hiding in the caves and crevices that the canyon offered.

It is very rough but truly interesting. After a snack with fruit also purchased from the stalls found along the road near the plantations, we approach Monument Valley.

Here the USA National Parks pass is not valid (the Indians even with this signal their independence as a Navajo nation) and the fee paid allows us to reach the visitor center where there is a panoramic terrace with a very beautiful view. However, we decide neither to take part in the jeep excursions to visit the valley nor to tackle the route with our car. We believe that the view from below adds little or nothing to what we appreciate from the view point. Mixed in with a myriad of Italians we take the ritual photos with the mountains kissed by the setting sun behind us.

Returning to the hotel we visit the stalls of the Navajo "jewelry shops" where we buy many cute little souvenirs; unfortunately I cannot find a beautiful USA flag with Geronimo's face printed on it in an acceptable size (the one available is about 2 m x 1). What a pity!

We have dinner at the hotel since by now it was very late; the girls in fact hurry to bring us what we asked for and then close the dining room.

Until now I have forgotten to mention a "must": from Italy I brought a very small laptop computer (a LAPTOP) with which almost everywhere I connected to the Internet and in particular with email. Having often had connection problems with my cell phone (despite it being a tri-band very often it was "with no service") I had the joy of informing myself about world events and communicating with friends and relatives via the Internet with the wi-fi service almost everywhere free.

The next morning we head toward the Grand Canyon; entering from the east entrance we obviously choose the south side (the north one is more out of the way, less served for tourism services) and here too we slowly travel through the various view points where we also take many photos. The impression of the majesty of the area is slightly mitigated by a light haze (heat?) and by the fact that unfortunately the Colorado (which flows at the bottom of the canyon) is hardly visible!

Traveling through its main part takes us the whole morning; then we rest in the little gardens facing the rim and try to figure out how to organize the rest of the day and an excursion for the next day. At the visitor center unfortunately they tell us that the most interesting view point that would have allowed us to reach a terrace with a direct view of the Colorado is inaccessible both by shuttle and on foot. We therefore decide to reach the hotel which (here too, unfortunately) is outside the Park although about ten km away; the advantage however is that the locality is reachable by a shuttle that serves the park.

On arrival the reception of the Best Western is not willing to give us the room even though it is only 15 minutes before the allowed time! To the rudeness received is added a terrible Internet service (very slow wi-fi and unusable internet point); to my complaints they respond with a shrug of the shoulders! Taking into account the CRAZY cost of the room I am preparing to complain about the matter to the Italian Management to which I am affiliated. Let's see if I will at least get an apology!

Here too, by the way, a notable swim in the pool (we are at over 2000 m but it is hot!) and good laundry service which allows us to restock on clean linen!

In the evening shortly before sunset (duly indicated in the timetables both at the visitor center but also at the hotel) we return to the rim where a great many tourists (it is Saturday evening) take perhaps a few million photos of a magical spectacle!

We have dinner in a typical STEAK HOUSE where we repeat the experience steak + fries + a glass of red served by waiters with cowboy hats!

On Sunday the 22nd (9th day) we take a route with the shuttle to the view point from which the river can be seen better (still rather far away, unfortunately.) We return to the village going down along the rim but the heat is already considerable; we see the steam train packed with tourists passing by, coming from Flagstaff, and we return once again to the hotel to rest in the pool.

Late in the afternoon we return to the Park using the shuttle from the hotel and go back to see the sunset spectacle this time from other view points. Frugal dinner at a Mc' Donalds.

The next morning another big "long haul" awaits us to Las Vegas: almost 450 km. Arriving in Nevada the temperature rises madly: it reaches almost 110 degrees fahrenheit which corresponds to over 40 degrees. Also time zone: + 9 hours with Italy. Again this time Best Western but very nice with helpful staff, very inexpensive. Before tackling the walk on the Strip (which we reach in the late afternoon with a hotel shuttle) we take a dip in the pool where the water is very hot!

Las Vegas is truly a playground for adults; we are impressed by the various hotels that recall places or stories of the past: Venice, Paris, Caesar Palace, Treasury Islands etc. etc.

Entering and leaving these places you face the hot-cold change; inside, fashionable shops and games of all kinds with hardened gamblers who spend days and nights there...... crazy!

At 7 pm we attend the water fountain show of the Bellagio fountains (wonderful) and then dine at the Planet Hollywood restaurant in the company of actors from the past and present!

Unfortunately we see the battle between 2 pirate ships at Treasure Island from afar and quite off to the side since the sidewalks are packed with people (and it's Monday..... and on the weekend how will they manage?).

A taxi takes us back to the hotel in the night!

Since the next stage is Death Valley we decide to leave very late; we know that in Las Vegas too there is an Outlet near the airport and here we spend almost the entire day emptying GAP, NIKE, REEBOK, HILFIRE, RALPH LAUREN since the purchases are heavily discounted and the dollar... "plummeting"! We refresh ourselves with a good ice cream and in the late afternoon we leave the capital of Nevada to enter the last state of our beautiful trip: California!

The entrance to Death Valley is in the middle of the desert and we are again warned to have many reserves of water on board, not to keep the air conditioning at full blast (as one does with over 40 degrees outside?). After a few kilometers of spectacular hills and desert we arrive at Zabriskie Point immortalized in a historic film by Michelangelo Antonioni! It is a truly cinematic spectacle! Of course: to cover the 50 m that take us to the view point with a very hot wind blowing on us we sweat profusely but the photos we get (also with the help of 2 young Roman newlyweds who are traveling the route in the opposite direction) are spectacular!

We then arrive at Furnace Creek Ranch and get our room where we recover from the heat; once the luggage is settled we go to dinner (rather expensive!) and then straight to the pool until 11 pm! The beautiful sunset allows us some photos with memorable colors!

The next morning we flee from the "furnace" passing by Dante's view (a 360-degree terrace over the valley but the view is quite limited by a broad haze) and heading with a fairly boring road toward the Sierra Nevada! Here the panoramas begin to be very pleasant again, even with sprinklings of snow in the distance. After a full tank of gas (by the way: the price per gallon fluctuated between 4 and 5 $ which is practically half the Italian price but double what Americans were paying a year ago....) we arrive at the gates of Yosemite Park which we will tackle anyway from the next morning! In Lee Vining we find a room in a modest motel (but pleasant, clean and with very well functioning wi-fi....!) and we have dinner in a good trattoria eating what in Florence we call rosticciana and in other parts of Italy pork ribs! Wonderful!

The 14th day of our trip begins with our entry into Yosemite National Park at Tioga Pass: we're at almost 3000 m and the temperature is biting; the sun, though, still lets us wear shorts and short-sleeved T-shirts! A continuous alternation of even higher mountains, little lakes, view points and meadows to be crossed with relaxing walks forces us to spend the whole morning, encountering both many animals (squirrels, marmots, birds of various species all duly photographed) and getting our feet wet in the streams and little lakes! After the desert, the sight sets us right again!

We have lunch in a picnic area where we run into some newlyweds on their honeymoon who are practically crossing our route, retracing it backwards... Even if very much in a hurry! We give them some advice, particularly about the absolute necessity of always having something to drink on board the car and during the trails!

Then, instead of starting the visit of Yosemite's main valley, we decide to go and take a look at the giant sequoias at Mariposa Grove (an endless journey on a road full of curves) where we take the ritual photos, the two of us hugging the gigantic trees; lots of animals here too!

We reach the hotel, which is outside the Park (at El Portal), in the evening and here too we take advantage of the excellent pool available, with a hydromassage even! Having behind us a river that comes down from the glacier, it's an unimaginable spectacle!

For dinner... a break from the rule of not eating "Italian style": we have a pizza brought to us that proves pleasant!

The next day is entirely dedicated to discovering the beauties of Yosemite's main valley, which is (perhaps) the pearl of this trip that, in any case, has shown us so many beautiful things.

With our car we reach the village and, after a small additional supply of water and provisions for lunch, we take a shuttle that brings us to stop 16 where a nice, very relaxing trail begins (apart from the heat and the mosquitoes!) that takes us along a path on the edge of a little lake and a stream full of children swimming!

We see small animals that are a cross between a squirrel and a mouse (called pins) and numerous birds!

After a couple of hours we take the bus again, which among other things is very frequent and very cool, and return to the car; after an excellent Hagen Das (the typically USA ice cream) we drive through the whole valley again to go to Glacier Point where the view is breathtaking!

It's a terrace over 1000 m above the village and we see both the major peaks and numerous waterfalls, some of which we hadn't spotted from below!

After a million photos we return to the hotel where (of course) we repeat the pool + hydromassage experience and have dinner this time with fruit and cheeses in our room!

In the morning, fairly early, we set off, leaving the mountains and the parks for good, and head toward civilization (if you can call it that).

In Gilroy we book a pleasant Motel 8, though disturbed by construction work in progress, but positioned right in the center of a series of Outlets that we proceed to empty during the day!

You can (in any case) notice the crisis that has hit America: closed venues everywhere and many people buying little or nothing, with half-empty places! For us it's a breeze, also because of the very favorable exchange rate!

A huge dinner in a typical country place (with the videos obsessively focused on the local team's baseball game) and a splendid plate of fried "shrimps" with a California chardonnay that is truly wonderful!

In the morning, a brief visit to the coast (Monterey), which however is spoiled by fog and gray weather, and then the final climb up to San Francisco begins. On the coast there are bathers in winter wetsuits ready to surf and numerous stalls selling local, seasonal fruit; also something particular: there are actual rows of blackberries that the owners let tourists pick directly (complete with little baskets and small carts) where whole families go to pick the fruit themselves, paying at the end. A really great thing!

We arrive at San Francisco airport to return the car, with the problem of the tax that I consider not owed still unresolved; the HERTZ organization is extremely efficient for the return paperwork but as for the payment (they say) no problem; already done with a charge to the credit card! I, of course, dispute it, and so they send me to their "customer care" where, in my halting English, I repeat that the amount is partly not owed. The embarrassed employee (who evidently understands the "routine") untangles the mess, refunding me the amount not owed! In Italy I'll then have to deal with the "bureaucrats" of Hertz Italy who evidently created the problem!

By taxi we reach the hotel (truly beautiful, right behind GHIRARDELLI and therefore a stone's throw from Fisherman's Wharf) and we take a first walk to see, precisely, the souvenir shops! In the last 20 years almost nothing has changed and there are always the usual T-shirts (made in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan etc. etc.); on the other hand, the magnets, of which we make a grand collection, are strictly all made in China.

It's Sunday and so PIER 39 is packed with tourists but it's also very lively; it's fairly warm (nothing compared to what we suffered in the parks, though) and the colors and smells are almost all pleasant!

In the afternoon we finally get access to our room and can finally relax a bit after the long exertions accumulated!

After a visit to the Ghirardelli store we decide to go to dinner at an Italian restaurant that offers us the chance to taste (along with the usual California Chardonnay) an excellent soup called "Cioppino's" that involves a large loaf of bread with its top removed, hollowed out and filled with crab prepared somewhat like cacciucco! Very good and visually a masterpiece!

After a digestive walk (very well covered because the temperature has dropped - it's cold!) our hotel awaits us, where a nice fire blazes in the fireplace in the lobby!

The next morning we discard the idea of doing the city tour (and/or the Golden Gate Bridge and various other tourist excursions) and we buy a 1-day public transport pass ($11) and immediately ride around on the cable car; even though we experienced it on our previous visit more than 20 years ago, it's always a thrill to ride on this means of transport unique in the world. We get off at Union Square and go for a nice breakfast in a cafeteria. They ask me how I want my coffee and I rule out the big cup and take the medium one... It burns like crazy and it will take me forever to finish it!

Then a visit to Macy's and another walk in the nearby streets; then we take the cable car again and get off in Chinatown! Huge... smells and streets teeming mostly with Asians. Next to it is the Italian quarter, very recognizable because our tricolor is painted on the lampposts!

After a relaxing walk also in the financial district, we ask for directions on how to reach the Golden Gate Bridge (2 buses taken in sequence), where we arrive practically at lunchtime! On the terrace facing it we take the ritual photos and in a small bar we have a few snacks to hold off our hunger!

By now the bridge has freed itself of the perpetual morning fog so the photos are truly beautiful. We take the 2 buses again to return to Fisherman's Wharf, where we decide to take a ferry to Sausalito. We do it on the fly and enjoy the trip, which passes close to the former Alcatraz prison, we see the Golden Gate Bridge again fairly close up and arrive in the lovely town of Sausalito in mid-afternoon; it's really a vacation and tourist spot full of little restaurants, wine shops and gadget stores. It's even warmer than in the city and it feels very good!

Late in the evening we take the ferry again and return to Fisherman's Wharf where (as usual) there's the usual "chaos" of tourists and stalls and shops crammed with trinkets!

After a relaxing little nap in the room we decide to repeat the Italian restaurant experience, wanting to try the pasta this time; it's very good and the plate of tagliatelle with scampi is up to the standard of our country. This evening we accompany the dish with a white Zinfandel (always Californian, of course).

Another little digestive walk and then we decide to make use of the day pass for public transport by taking the nighttime cable car, again as far as Union Square. The charm of San Francisco repeats itself in the evening too, with its streets going up and down, all lit up.

We return to the hotel to pack our bags for our return home.

Since the flight is scheduled for the beginning of the afternoon but knowing that the security checks will be long, we decide mid-morning to have a taxi take us to the airport; we go to the Lufthansa counters and a surprise awaits us. The flight has been linked with a UNITED one and it's here that we'll have to go to check in.

And here a truly regrettable thing happens: presenting 3 suitcases for check-in (there are 2 of us traveling), the UNITED clerk told me that, since one suitcase weighed 70 lbs, I would have to pay a surcharge of $50. I replied that this was completely wrong since it is my right to check in per passenger 2 suitcases each of 50 lbs, so the weight of my single piece of luggage was amply covered. I also asked her to call a superior to settle the question! Unfortunately he too confirmed the stupid idea put forward by the woman and, when I refused to pay the $50, he threatened not to let us board.

I was therefore forced to comply with the OPPRESSIVE request with my credit card, but I declared to them that I would raise my complaints with LUFTHANSA (it is with this company that I entered into the travel contract and therefore it is to it that I intend to have the problem settled) taking into account that both on the outbound flight Florence - Frankfurt - Denver and on the numerous flights taken with various world airlines in recent years I have never had a problem of this kind since it is our habit to travel preferably with one large piece of luggage that, of course, falls within the permitted limits. On this choice I have always obtained the fullest agreement.

I note that, after paying the unfair amount, I visited the Lufthansa check-in counter where, presenting the problem, I received complete solidarity and an employee even said: "United stupid!" They themselves advised me to request the prompt refund of the money paid, which I am about to do! I repeat that it is Lufthansa that guaranteed me the transport under the known conditions, since both my wife and I are members of that company's Miles & More club.

To worsen my discomfort further, another regrettable thing happened: at the boarding pass check we were subjected to a police-style check with personal searches and searches of all carry-on luggage; when I asked the reason, a Security employee showed me that on the 2 boarding passes a code "SSSS" had been inserted, which identifies suspicious and dangerous persons. It is clear that the lady at the UNITED check-in wanted to take revenge on us for the complaints we made.

This series of abuses suffered has somewhat embittered our return, which, in any case, we will try to erase without, however, failing to pursue the dispute with LUFTHANSA - UNITED.

I gladly provide you with this information because to the "Tourists by chance" who may find themselves dealing both with Hertz and indeed with the above-mentioned airlines, I advise keeping your eyes wide open and reading carefully all the agreed conditions!

One last appeal: go to the USA now, in a hurry, because with our SUPER EURO we can have wonderful vacations at relatively modest sums!

Sandro Salvetti - Florence