Iran

Leaving from Malpensa with Iran Air...all the women had to wrap themselves in the classic veil; from that moment, for ten days, I would no longer see a woman with her hair blowing in the wind in public. There are some things that make a trip unique, in the Iranian case that of getting to know some people on the spot who host you in their own home. It would have been quite another thing to shut oneself up in some hotel, the possibilities of socializing, in that case, would have been reduced to a minimum. Instead, sleeping in Tehran at my friend Mammat's house, I was able to experience Iran under a magnifying glass, meeting people, talking, asking uncomfortable questions and getting contrasting answers.

The most widespread opinion in Tehran was that at the time of the Shah...well, it was a whole other thing, free as one was to profess one's religion and, at the same time, to be able to live "Western-style". Tehran was the gateway into Iran; a city that stretches as far as the eye can see with its 15 million inhabitants, it doesn't actually have that many interesting things to offer if not for the Shah's residences, the national museums, bazaars and shopping centers. It's a fairly modern city...I don't know why, but I would have expected Iran to be more...poor...disorderly...instead the streets are clean and there are lots of elegant neighborhoods. Of course, traffic is a subject all its own!! This yes, is the real danger for a visitor or a pedestrian in general.

On the street the only rule is...there are no rules, everyone honks their horn and it's a continuous braking, steering, squeezing into every possible gap...the long lines of cars go on this way. For those on foot...it's always a bit of an adventure crossing a street...it's like taking part in Russian roulette. From Tehran to Mashad the step is so short that...you really land in another world. From the plane the view of the cone of Mount Damavand, the highest in the country, is wonderful and the snow that whitens the high peaks of the northern Iranian plateau forms a boundless white ocean. Mashad is the holiest city in the country and receives every year about 20 million pilgrims... I didn't meet all of them but I nonetheless mingled in the middle of a sea of people.

This city is located about 100 Km from the border with Afghanistan and reading on the map some cities so sadly famous like Herat and further on Kandahar and Kabul, doesn't leave you indifferent. In Mashad everything "comes down" to the visit of the Shrine of Imam Reza...being able to enter into close contact and in such an intimate way with this religion was a unique opportunity. Normally "Western" tourists are not allowed in the most sacred areas but I...fortunately, was accompanied by my friend Ali and, considering my Iranian appearance...according to many, I was able to reach the heart of the shrine up to the tomb of Imam Reza, observing with my own eyes the most intimate rituals and breathing a spirituality so intense that it moves even those who, like me, are so far from this religion. The shrine is so large that getting lost is the easiest thing in the world.

At every entrance door there are strict controls that don't allow cameras in...what a pity with so many enchanting things to capture....but come on, there's always the cell phone...I was almost about to forget it!! Mosques, museums, domes covered in gold, minarets, madrasas, courtyards, libraries, underground cemeteries...my eyes were filled with so many wonders and for this I will always have to thank my friend Ali...without him, I would have been able to appreciate very little. Having reached Isfahan after a few days (or Esfahan..), I believe I left a little piece of my heart in this city. It's the masterpiece of Iran, the jewel of ancient Persia, one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen and...having said that...in my opinion it's also one of the most livable, tidy and organized and clean cities...in short...a place to live.

Of course, staying in the historic, luxurious, expensive...Abbasi Hotel, took me straight back into history. This hotel is the oldest in all of Iran and...at least for one night...it's worth staying here. The things to see are countless: standing open-mouthed in the middle of Imam square, dazzled by the richness of the mosaics of the mosques, getting lost in the bazaar that surrounds the portico of the square; the Chehel Sotun palace, built by the Shah as a place for receptions and leisure, contains some truly unique frescoes and its external colonnade is a work of art. The bridges that cross the Zayandeh river, some of which so ancient and equally romantic...and finally the Armenian quarter.

I got there absent-mindedly not expecting anything special; from the outside the Vank cathedral is nothing but a simple church...but when I ventured inside....I believe I remained open-mouthed for at least 10 minutes....the frescoes and the colors covered every centimeter of this place and the sacred representations seemed to come to life. On one wall, from the ceiling down to the floor, hell, purgatory and paradise were depicted....in short the visit was a real surprise and I recommend to anyone who visits Isfahan to make a stop in this Christian quarter, in the middle of Iran. Reaching Yazd wasn't easy...there is no air connection and so with 5 hours by car, driving in the middle of the desert, we reached the destination.

Yazd, with its winding alleys, the wind towers, the clay brick houses in the old city...is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is fighting a daily battle for the preservation of its architecture, in fact, its historic center is considered one of the oldest in the world. Walking among these streets is like being transported along the ancient silk roads; here too the places of interest are not lacking: the old city, guardian of ancient and luxurious residences, dominated by the typical Bagdir; the Jameh mosque, the prison of Alexander, the Zoroastrian sites (ancient religion)...guardians of the eternal sacred fire and the complex of Amir Chakhmaq, an unmistakable building from whose top I admired an exciting panorama. Among the many things I will happily remember about Iran there is certainly the cuisine...rich in flavors and refined dishes based on lamb, mutton, chicken and beef.

The fruit and vegetables, above all, have no equal. Among the grayest pages instead, the awareness that a country with infinite riches...is gripped in the vise of politics/religion that doesn't allow its citizens to feel free. As much as I felt good in Iran, at the same time I saw how difficult it is for the locals to submit to certain rules that, day after day, tend to suffocate the personality and ideas of individuals. The sight of the religious police rounding up the most elegant girls, well made-up or with a veil that covers...little...taking them to the police station for a check...well...it was a small shock, just like finding the almost total absence of a smile on the faces of all these people.

Toward me, instead, I found so much generosity and helpfulness from ordinary people, the hospitality of Iranians often embarrassed me and, with these words that they will hardly read, I would like to remember my friends Mammat, Hassan, Ali, Shima, Shoucufe, Sina, Majid and Sepide...hoping one day to meet you again in your splendid Persia.