Wonderful Cornwall

Tintàgel between fiction and reality

My journey begins from this truly attractive place. Tintagel is a cluster of a few but delightful houses in typical English style built very close to the cliff. It doesn't matter whether or not you believe in the legend of King Arthur: this part of Cornwall will leave you with a pleasant memory, considering the mysticism that reigns in these parts. I slept at the Bosayne Guest House with a view of the ocean. Excellent accommodation. A shame about that horrible castle-shaped contraption (?) that has recently been built on the cliff and that disfigures the view: it's a hotel. Nevertheless, the visit to the ruins of the medieval castle is truly pleasant. I advise you not to take the Turist Road directly that starts from the center of the little village, but to head toward "the contraption" passing on its right side in the direction of the ocean.

You'll take a half-hour walk along the splendid cliff. The ruins of the castle will appear to you in all their beauty after a few minutes. After visiting them, if you happen to find low tide, go down to the beach where you'll find Merlin's cave and a splendid freshwater waterfall. It will feel like taking a journey back in time. Once you've gone back up to the little village via the Tourist Road, don't miss a visit to the few but well-stocked little shops that sell the classic souvenirs and some very tempting sweets...! Finally, after a little drink at the Cornishman Inn, a very cute and very British pub, you'll have spent a very pleasant half-day and you'll be ready to move on to your next destination.

St.Ives, aka the English Alassio.

St.Ives is truly a beautiful little town. I had the privilege of visiting it on a splendid sunny day. This place is one of the most sought-after seaside vacation destinations for the English vacationer. Even though it was truly crowded it seemed to me that there was no one there. Everything ran smoothly, almost planned at a desk. No one shouted or behaved in an annoying way. All the bathers had their space for free with the windbreak screen planted in the sand, the rectangular towel laid perpendicular to the shoreline and, even the classic games at the water's edge, were moderately invasive. Many were swimming and, of those, a good number wore a light wetsuit against the cold. In fact the temperature didn't exceed 20 degrees both in the air and in the water.

The few Italians I met were easily recognizable because (like yours truly, for that matter) they wore a sweatshirt and socks inside soft sports shoes. And all of us "Mediterraneans" observed these "warm-blooded" English to whom you just couldn't attribute any kindly adjective...! Many in my group thought to themselves that on that day they weren't feeling very well and therefore were a bit chilled. No, it wasn't like that: we enjoyed good health. It was them, the English, who were truly being daring. In any case St.Ives is splendid, full of little streets and alleys that vaguely remind me of Alassio indeed. There are two large beaches of unexpectedly fine golden sand. Little shops and pubs to your heart's content complete the picture of this truly special town. I saw many young people, a sign that it's also a very interesting place for them.

Almost at the epilogue of my visit I noticed a small group of people on the quay of the pier who were insistently throwing all sorts of food into the water. Thinking it was a banquet for local and obese little fish I approached to do my part. To my great surprise I found myself in front of a splendid specimen of sea lion in complete freedom. Selly, as they told me she's called, is a regular of the bay of St.Ives and is respected and properly "fed" by everyone. For this (and not only) hurray for the English. Next stop: sunset at Land's End...

Land's End, the end of the land.

NO, I mean NO, it's not allowed to visit Cornwall without pushing all the way to this extreme western strip of coast, possibly at sunset time. Unfortunately some troubled mind thought of building right at the end of the road a sort of amusement park absolutely inappropriate in this place. I advise you to park in some side street before ending up in the paid parking area (£5), in which you find yourself without even realizing it. When you see a sort of "Stargate"-type gate, stop wherever you can and turn back. Once you've left the car, head toward "Stargate" and, right beside it on the right side, take a path (public foot) free for everyone that runs parallel to the little entrance road to the park. This walkway will take you straight to the cliff where you'll savor one of those moments that is impossible to forget.

In my travels I've seen many wonderful sunsets, each of which left me an indelible memory. The one at Land's End made me imagine the sun falling on American soil, as if there were only a few miles of distance between the two continents. The immensity of nature in these parts expresses itself at the highest levels, the power of the sea makes you feel so small, the force of the wind that whips your body is like an embrace so enveloping that it makes your legs wobble. Looking at the sea to the right, and about forty kilometers from the coast, there are the Isles of Scilly with very white beaches of an almost tropical appearance. Closer to the coast and more easily identifiable toward the left there's a group of rocks on which a lighthouse has been built. At sunset time the sun plunges into the sea right between these two archipelagos coloring the sky just as Monet painted his paintings.

You can only imagine what the pathos of that moment can be like: all your senses are at work so as not to miss even a scene of this splendid spectacle intoxicated as they are by the sound of the sea, by the screeching of the seagulls, by the smell of the salt and by that palette of constantly changing colors: a masterpiece that nature creates every day for you, sometimes distracted spectator, and it does so without even asking you for applause. Moreover in my mind I actually did applaud because it seemed to me it was only right. So now go back to the car too and you'll see that the only words that will come out of your mouth will be things like: beautiful, splendid, fantastic...! Next step Lizard peninsula.

Lizard, the real Cornwall

From several sources I've heard it said that this part of Cornwall is the most authentic. I have to admit that in certain respects that's exactly so, especially morphologically speaking (there's very little mysticism here). In a counterclockwise direction: Mullion Cove, Kynance Cove, Lizard Point with its beautiful lighthouse, Church Cove and Cadgwith Cove with its very particular houses with thatched roofs. To visit them all you'll do about 20/25 km. I'll dwell on the first two because they left me with different types of memories. Of Mullion Cove I still have in mind that fabulous fresh tuna sandwich that I enjoyed in the only pub in the little harbor.

It was to die for! Mullion Harbour has always been a safe shelter for boats when the sea hits hard and, given the setting in which it's been carved out, looking at the entrance toward the open sea you expect that at any moment some galleon looking for a landing place might appear. Amusing is the situation that presents itself about halfway along the quay: right in the middle of your path you encounter a basket set on the ground (I ran into it because I was looking at the seagulls...) that contains some shells for sale but with no seller. It works like this: you take the shell and then you put the suggested (not imposed) amount of 20 pences into a sort of mailbox placed above the basket itself.

What a wonder the ethics and the very gentlemanly behavior of the English tourist! I imagine what would happen, unfortunately, in certain other parts of the world (I won't mention them to stay friends with everyone) if the same situation were proposed: go ahead, if you want, and make some guesses.... Right after Mullion Cove you reach Kynance Cove. This is one of the most beautiful cliffs I've ever seen. More beautiful even than the Cliff's of Moher in Ireland. Follow the road until a free parking lot for cars. Then head on foot toward the north (leave the sea on your left) following one of the many paths until you reach a beautiful beach of fine sand that blends with an azzzzure sea with five z's indeed. The whole thing is dominated by rather high cliffs covered with vegetation of a tropical appearance that, in some places, almost plunges into the water.

I took some photos before going down to the beach trying to brighten the colors of the landscape as much as possible with the digital effects of my camera (as if there had been a very strong sun). Once home I showed them to some friends I hadn't met in a while passing off these landscapes as those seen on a recent trip to Ko Samui in Thailand (a trip I never took). Well, they told me I'm the usual lucky one who goes to such beautiful but so distant places.... This is Cornwall, that is, a mix of so many situations that it's very difficult to find so harmoniously gathered in a single place. And tomorrow Polperro awaits me, another gem of this multifaceted journey.

Polperro, a pirates' den.

Ladies and gentlemen: welcome to the pirates' den! When I saw the photos on the web of this renowned spot, I got incredibly fired up at the idea of visiting such an ancestral place, but nothing allowed me to imagine just how pleasing to the eye this place would be. But let's take it step by step: Polperro is a car-free zone, you only get around on foot. When you arrive, many signs point out this particular detail and invite you to leave your car in the (large and only) parking lot at the entrance to the village. It's a bit pricey (in August about £3 for 2 hours) but it's worth it and, above all, there aren't many alternatives given the location of the village. Once you've left your car, head toward the only road that will lead you into the "down-town" and you'll find, right at the start of it, a very valuable and spotlessly clean toilet much appreciated by the ladies (and not only...).

Right opposite the public convenience, a little electric bus departs that for a few pounds takes you to the small harbor. However, I advise you not to use it but to walk the route (about 10 minutes and a few hundred meters) because, as soon as you get past the first bend, a triumph begins of little houses and cottages all in maritime style and very colorful. Further on you'll find a few pubs and some very nice little shops. In no time at all you'll find yourself in the heart of this town, and the fishermen's harbor, small but crowded with boats of every size and type, will appear before you in all its beauty. On the left side, a good number of little houses climb up the hill and the narrow streets (not many, to tell the truth) intersect one another.

On the right side of the small harbor, following the only and crowded little street, you reach the breakwater, which is partly self-propelled. In front of you, your gaze is lost watching the ocean, so close and so powerful, while your ear is caught by the noise that the boats moored at the pier make with their rolling. In this pleasant situation, don't completely disregard the seagulls which, noisy and fascinating, sometimes seem to have infallible aim with their... bombardments. On the ground too there are rather slippery traces of their physiological activity...! Before reaching the breakwater, on your right you'll glimpse a delightful little beach tucked among the rocks, but only if there are low-tide conditions. Otherwise the waves break directly against the cliff.

From where you are, you'll notice a sign pointing you to a very nice coastal walk if you feel like taking a stroll to admire a beautiful panorama. In Polperro, one of the best attractions is undoubtedly the presence of some very special Pubs. There are, I think, seven or eight in all, very nice in every sense... Eating a fish and chips sitting at the well-worn big tables of these places lets you fully savor the atmosphere of this place, but it's not exactly cheap (£12/15 per person for a small meal). Many also offer live music in typical buccaneer style.

There are old empty beer tankards hanging everywhere, while a remarkable quantity of full ones circulate wonderfully among the tables...! I recommend you sober up well before getting back behind the wheel, because with English laws you risk a lot! Getting lost among the suggestive views of Polperro is very relaxing, but the visit doesn't take up much of your time, also thanks to the size of this village, which is certainly not considerable. When I was looking for the various locations to sleep in Cornwall, I hadn't been able to find a free place here in Polperro: all the Guest Houses were occupied. During my visit, however, I noticed that many B&Bs displayed the "VACANCY" sign (meaning rooms available) while very few proudly displayed the opposite "NO VACANCY" (fully booked). The reason is very simple: most of the Guest Houses have only two or three rooms to offer guests.

Mine was a group of eight people and availability was always nonexistent. If you need one or two double rooms you can choose among several options. If you're a larger group, don't hesitate to split up among several establishments, since they're all very nice, clean and close to one another. Even the prices aren't very different. Tempus fugit (a Latin expression that torments you throughout your holidays): I head toward the last stop of my journey, aka Glastonbury.

Glastonbury and its people.

Leaving Polperro heading towards Glastonbury you pass through a splendid little town called Looe. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance to stop for even a minute but it's really lovely. It's certainly worth visiting. This trip is about Cornwall while Glastonbury is in Somerset: it might be "off-topic". However, whether because it's well positioned on the way back, or because it's considered the epicentre of English mysticism, Glastonbury undoubtedly deserves a little visit. First of all: just as all currents of mystical thought fundamentally have two opposite explanations (if you believe a legend your mind rises lightly into infinite space, if you don't believe it your mind tells you they're just a load of......), this town too can leave you with a different kind of memory depending on how you approach it.

Personally, with the passing of the years I've partly lost the fanciful side of my mind and tend to rationalise every situation life presents me with. Having visited it with my children who, bless them, still have plenty of imagination, I imagined that the legends this town carries with it all had a grain of truth. So what I was going to explore appeared before my eyes as something magical. Glastonbury has several lovely things to visit: the High Street, the cathedral ruins, the hill dominated by the medieval tower "The Tor", but the most interesting attraction from my point of view is the characters you meet on the street. Observing them discreetly and respecting their beliefs without descending into mocking little laughs (as the less polite do) you'll discover faces and figures that seem to have come here directly from another reality.

Glastonbury is also a refuge for the "flower children", that is, the Hippies. Moving along the street I met a good number of those Volkswagen minibuses which, mind you, aren't replicas but are truly the original, very colourful and very well-preserved "minibuses" of the sixty-eighters. And the drivers aren't young people looking for retro emotions but are actually the kids of Woodstock, today elderly but still vital sixty-somethings, that is, those who probably shook John Lennon's hand on Abbey Road. From the central little square starts the High Street, that is, a slightly uphill street full of little shops selling anything mystical: potions, very strange clothes, various publications on the theme. With the hill in front of you, you'll notice, on the left side of the street, two or three alleys quite hard to spot as they're truly very small.

Visit them all and you'll savour an atmosphere of times gone by. Here I bought again an old Beatles vinyl record I had lost, and my children found the various original gadgets of several famous personalities very interesting and above all "Out of Range" (read amusingly: out of their minds..). The visit to the Tor is pleasant but demanding since you'll have to earn the summit of a hill about 120 metres high (above sea level). There's a minibus that leaves every thirty minutes from the little square that opens in front of the cathedral ruins. However, you'll only do 500/600 metres comfortably seated on it since it will take you to the foot of the hill: the whole climb will still be up to you. Moral: the minibus is practically useless. There are two entrances to reach the Tor: one is on Well House LN, and the other on Chilkwell St.

I recommend going via the second one since the climb is gentler and, as you walk, you'll meet very picturesque characters who entertain the more "devout"with strange liturgies. At the top of the hill there's only this mystical tower with all its load of legends. There are some information boards that tell you the ancient history of the monument. Very useful are the benches placed inside the tower: you'll better understand their value once you've reached the top of the hill...The visit to the cathedral ruins is truly interesting and the money spent buying the ticket is very well spent.

Much less pleasant, from my point of view, was the visit to the "Chalice Well", a sort of mystical garden with an attached spring of ferrous water as renowned as it is disgusting...Just the time to take a few final photos and reluctantly I realise that the time has come to set off on the road home, that is, the holiday has come to an end. One last tip: this town (as indeed is much of the United Kingdom) is as lively by day as it is quiet by evening. Most Pubs' kitchens close at 9:00 pm so the right time for dinner is around 7:30 pm. After 10:00 pm everything or almost everything goes to sleep. See you on the next trip. Massimo.