To reach Bath from Exmoor we opt for the B3135 which passes through the famous Cheddar Gorge. It's a scenic road that crosses a deep chasm that creates a suggestive canyon. Maybe because of the little time available, the crowding and the overly touristy appearance of the place, it didn't seem like an unmissable destination to us.
We reach Bath, the most refined of English cities, an architectural masterpiece and evidence of Roman rule, famous for its hot springs. The center, surrounded by hills, is truly remarkable and characteristic, and features many monuments not to be missed. To begin with, Pulteney Bridge, a characteristic bridge over the Avon similar to Ponte Vecchio in Florence for its shops overlooking the river. Dominating the center is the splendid and candid Bath Abbey, which appears different when viewed from different angles. To enter, a donation of £2.50 is expected, but no one asks us for anything and we avoid it, the church doesn't seem to us to be really in need...
In the square in front of the Abbey is the entrance to the Roman Baths, the city's main tourist attraction. Visiting them is particularly evocative in the evening, when the Great Bath is illuminated by torches that create a truly magical effect. From the Victorian terrace you get a truly unforgettable view, with the Abbey's dome as a backdrop to the Roman baths. The route leads to the water level, which still flows very hot, to the smaller baths and to the temple of Minerva, and allows you to understand the workings and the genius of the Roman creators of this masterpiece.
The Royal Crescent instead represents the pinnacle of Georgian Bath: it's a group of houses with elegant facades arranged in a semicircle overlooking a large park. Another characteristic square is the Circus; here the houses form a perfect circle. Many streets are pedestrianized such as High St., on which elegant shops face.
We leave Bath to continue in the direction of the Cotswolds, making a stop at
Roman Bath
Day 210 Aug 2006
BLENHEIM PALACE
If Windsor Castle astonishes, Blenheim Palace stuns: even more sumptuous, with surprising interiors, enormous refined halls, wonderful gardens. The palace, still today the residence of the eleventh duke, is also famous because Sir Winston Churchill was born here, to whom the Churchill Exhibition has been dedicated, retracing the life of the famous statesman. The halls that impress the most are the Great Hall, with ceilings 20 meters high and valuable works of art, and the Long Library, an enormous and refined library that preserves an immense literary heritage. The Palace is one of the largest in Europe, thanks also to the lush gardens that can be visited thanks to some themed routes about 2 miles long. In the afternoon we arrive at:
Warwick Castle
Day 311 Aug 2006
Stratford-Upon-Avon, Warkick
One of the most visited places in the United Kingdom, a delightful little town literally overrun by tourists, known for being the birthplace of William Shakespeare. Every place in the town is inspired by the life of the great playwright, and you can visit a series of buildings to retrace his life.
Starting with the Birthplace, located in the centre, restored in the style of the era, with the rooms, the kitchen, the garden. Here you also find the Shakespeare Exhibition, which retraces all the stages of the Bard's life. There are many buildings to visit, but the most evocative one is a couple of km from the centre: Anne Hathaway's Cottage, a beautiful farmhouse where his future wife lived. Thatched roof, period furniture, a garden full of flowers and the Shakespeare Tree Garden, where you find all the trees mentioned in his works. Back in the centre, you stroll among beautiful Tudor-style houses (with timber frames) on High and Sheep Street, and along the banks of the River Avon, with the typical boats, to reach Holy Trinity Church, with the tombs of Shakespeare and his wife.
Another pleasant town in the Cotswolds, a few km from here, is Warwick, famous for its splendid medieval castle
WARWICK CASTLE
It is one of the most sumptuous noble residences in England and is considered the most famous in the whole country. Visiting it is halfway between a historical tour and an amusement park, given the various attractions available (such as the ghost tower or the torture chamber tour), the strange characters in period costume who bring the castle to life, and the wax statues that populate the halls as in the past.
In particular, the visit takes place in three parts: the royal apartments with the majestic Great Hall and the State Rooms, among butlers and the reconstruction of the former owners, the Tussaud family. The prison tour with the torture instruments and the armoury, ending with the Kingmaker Exhibition, which represents the meticulous preparation before a battle.
Imposing walls, extremely elegant interiors, well-tended gardens, breathtaking views from the towers: everything you could ask for from a "real castle."
Once the visit is over we set off towards Luton airport, where we return the car and take the bus (1.15 hours) to the centre of
London, Tower Br.
Day 412 Aug 2006
London
More than a visit to London, ours can be considered a short stroll in the City, since the city was not the main reason for our trip. We take the opportunity for an evening in the most adrenaline-filled area of the city, among the sparkling Piccadilly Circus, the imposing and elegant Trafalgar Square and the transgressive Covent Garden, among pubs, street artists and a crowd the likes of which we had never seen.
The following morning, our last day in England, and the only one unfavourable from a weather point of view, we devote to the most famous monuments: St. Paul's Cathedral, complete with a climb up to the dome, Tower Bridge, where a museum is set up inside, a cruise on the Thames to Westminster, where we admire in all its splendour the Parliament with Big Ben and the famous Abbey, finishing with a walk in St. James's Park to Buckingham Palace.
Useful Information
Travelling to London is not a problem, thanks to the low-cost flights that offer truly convenient fares. Booking with Ryanair well in advance, we snag a fare of € 84.00 round trip, excellent considering it's August. Avis also helps us out, with a Ford Fiesta for 7 days at € 145.00. We also find air conditioning, which wasn't included, and which turned out to be essential, since on some days we hit 28 degrees. The English B&Bs are excellent, with abundant breakfasts that let you reduce lunch to a simple snack, which, done picnic-style, lying on the meadows overlooking the sea, becomes unforgettable. The average price ranges from 25 to 30 pounds per person per day, in mid-level B&Bs with private bathroom. Owners always very kind and helpful, as were all the people we met during the trip, except in London.
The infamous English restaurants are not much more expensive than our Italian ones, at least since we got used to the euro. You can stuff yourself royally for 15 pounds per person, the portions are very generous, the taste, well, it depends a bit on luck... Personally I went from a disgusting Cornwall Seafood served with a horrible little sauce that didn't let you savour the taste of the fish, to a delicious seafood spaghetti, to an unforgettable T-Bone Steak cooked "rare." One thing: avoid the water, and dive into the beer. For lunch, take a stroll through the big supermarket chains (usually found in the town centre), you'll find excellent fresh bread and decent and convenient vacuum-packed cold cuts; here you can also stock up on water at "Italian" prices.
The individual attractions, museums, archaeological and tourist sites in the United Kingdom have heart-attack prices; indispensable for anyone intending to visit many of them is the purchase of the G.B Heritage Pass, which allows access, without queues, to almost all the sites (Windsor Castle is the exception). The Pass can be purchased online, or directly at the Touring Club upon reservation. A 7-day Pass costs € 58, and allows access for example to Stonehenge, Stourhead Garden, S. Michael's Mount, Tintagel, Roman Bath, Blenheim Palace, Shakespeare House, Warwick Castle, St Paul's, Tower Bridge, etc. If we consider that admission to Warwick Castle alone costs £ 18, do the math...
The complete list of accessible sites:
As already said, the flaws of England are the traffic and the roads. The traffic is truly heavy, in any area, so much so that it often blocks the main arteries, such as the M1, the M25, the A30 to Cornwall. Once off the main roads, you often find yourself on very narrow, winding secondary roads that are also busy. Often in Cornwall they have no road edge, represented by tall hedges that block the view and risk scratching the car. Driving requires great caution, also because the English behind the wheel are not exactly calm, and they proceed at high speed even on not very smooth roads: it's not rare to come across cars overturned on the road... I recommend full insurance without excess; when I returned the car intact and without scratches, I was pleased!
Driving on the left is not a big problem, you get used to roundabouts quickly, you just always give way to the right, even if it often seems like you have priority. Fortunately I had a GPS navigator, really very useful.
Parking: I had prepared to spend a good chunk of money on parking, instead I always found free or fairly cheap parking. Sometimes the trick is not to use the car park of the site you're visiting, but to park elsewhere and walk a few hundred metres. Usually they charge £ 1 for a couple of hours. Sometimes, when you enter a car park, you happen to find some cars leaving that give you their ticket with still some time left on it. Do the same. B&Bs often have free parking.
Weather: this is a real lottery. Even in the height of summer there can be rainy and fairly cold days, alternating with days of great heat and blazing sun. It really comes down to luck; in any case, if you look at the statistics, in the south of England in summer it never rains much, and conditions change quickly. We happened to wake up to rain, then it cleared up completely within an hour. Constant in Cornwall, on the other hand, is the wind, which often blows in a truly annoying way. One thing is certain: the verdict on Cornwall will be tied to the weather conditions you find; the sun brightens and enhances the colours, I don't know how the impact would be on a sad grey rainy day.
Some prices, August 2006, in pounds:
petrol and diesel per litre: £ 0.98 --- hearty dinner in an average restaurant: £ 15-18
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